I was recently doing some step-wedge testing and noticed
that anything higher than grade 3.5 looked prettmy much the
same.  Here are the details:
 Zone VI cold light head (Beseler 45) with Aristo V54 bulb, less

Your photography equipment needs are minimal. You'll need a basic SLR
camera - film or digital. For additional control and future options,
the flash should be removeable. You'll also need lenses to cover the
standard range of portrait shooting distances, a couple zoom lenses

A comment from Karl:
After much consideration on the subject of moving from 35mm to medium
format for my main camera, I ended up going with Hasselblad. The Pentax
645 also was considered, but I felt that for the long haul, the

i'v already know the speed of a B&W negative is 0.8/H, where H is the
exposure in lux-seconds which yieds film density of 0.1 above the
density of film base plus fog.   but, how about if consider color
negative?  you see the problem, there are three dye for a color

i like to heard any of your opinions about the D-23 as film developer.
Adams seemed like it mentioned in his book Negative.  but, people said,
it is not suitable to push.  is it true?  and, how about the film speed
when use it?

My good friend Henri Gaud try to rediscover colour photography by
direct trichromy ....
He achieved successfully fine colour 8"x10"photographs, with triX film
sheets.

I am having trouble with a fine white precipitate,
I am assuming its Calcium, coming out of mix-from-scratch
D-72 [Dektol w/o magic ingredients] stock solution.
It seems the fix is to add calgon [sodium

Hi, looking for Rollei R3 Low Speed developer I've found on MSDS these
data:
metol < 1 %
ammonium chloride < 4 %

Dear friends, you know that there are djvu/pdf copies of books which
can be downloaded from internet. But, though I have downloaded a huge
amount of math books in those format, I can't make a printout of them,
for in doing this I have to spend much money - printing by PC printer

in Adams's book 'Negative', page 66, he showed a Exposure Formula:
" to use the exposure formula, take the film speed number ( on the ASA
scale ) and determine its approximate square root. This number is
remembered as the key stop for that firm.  for example, a film rated as

To Whom It May Concern:
We are very pleased to be able to inform you about the launch of WHO's
photo and video contest, "Images of Health and Disability 2006/2007".
This years contest is organized in collaboration with the WHO

I study our perception of sharpness and how it relates to photographic
terms. Doing that I try to compare the resolution abilities at several
subsequent photographic stages and would like to know if anybody can
tell me something about the resolution limit of photographic printing

Hello all, pertinent to the recent thread "expired film" in rec.photo.equipment.35mm
I have several rolls of 120/220 I shot in '97 - '99, I have kept it all refridged in a lead
lined travel film bag since then, and only recently put it in the freezer!  Need to know,
how should it ...

i am not sure whether my fade-off is really a fade-off.  the enlarger
is an Omega D5XL, it's a color header enlarger which got a soften-box (
light multipler ) soften the light from bulb before pass them to lens.
yesterday, i projected and focused a 8x8 inch image on the baseboard

I don't have a lot of experience with fibre paper. I've just started
printing on some recently. Visually it looks less grainy than RC. Am I
imagining things?