I intend to use iodine bleach for general bleaching of prints, and also for
local bleaching. I was just wondering, since I will tone my prints in
selenium, if locally bleached areas will look different and out of place from
the rest of the image. Does bleaching cause unwanted split ...

I've researched on two other fixer formula because F-24 is a slow fixer. I
want a rapid fixer.
Here are the formulae:
Neutral rapid fixer

B&W Photography
I updated my weblog.
Visit:
www.fotowillem.com/weblog

I have a Vivitar enlarger lens, a little dusty but probably usable,
that says the following around the top: Anastigmat 1:3.5 F=75mm No.
77498. f-stops range from 3.5 to 16. Does anyone know how to find out
the value/condition of this lens? I am not well-versed in photographic

I mix my own chemicals now.  It just worries me, because as of the recent
reports, the rates of cancer, are rising.  Would you know if exposure to
photographic chemicals, from the raw chemicals to the pre-packed chemicals
that we use, could trigger, or contribute to the development ...

I think the life cycle is all backwards.
You should start out dead; just get it right out of the way.
You wake up in a senior care facility and start feeling better
every day.

Is the process of printing from a negative similar to, or exactly the
same as, printing from a positive?
Thanks.

my question regards the preparation of prints from slides and I´m
asking it as someone who is as much interested in visual perception as
in photography but has not that much knowledge of the latter. As I
understand it the negative-positive process strives to produce roughly

OK, a dumb question. Can tylenol be used directly as a film developer?
I know it can be converted to para aminophenol (roughly speaking,
rodinal) by treating it with lye, but does it have any developer
activity in its original form?

I just mixed a TF-3 fixer. Here is the formula I used:
* Ammonium thiosulfate (57-60%) 800 ml
   Sodium Sulfite (anhy) 60 g
** Sodium Metaborate 5 g (50ml of 10%sodium metaborate/L)

What are the best and or easiest methods of producing large negatives,
discounting inkjet or digital methods. Do I have to make an internegative
first? The goal is to produce a 16x20 an argyrotype print (monochrome). Thx.
p.s. while I'm on the subject ...how do I do a four colour ...

I don't have any photo flow. What's the next best way to soak negs?

In the process of making serious investments to outfit a large format
darkroom and would appreciate discussion regarding such. Is large format
going the way of digital? Am I spinning my wheels?

I've researched on two other fixer formula because F-24 is a slow fixer. I
want a rapid fixer.
Here are the formulae:
Neutral rapid fixer

Moderator,
Sorry.  I posted the same thread twice (rapid, non-hardening alkaline fixer,
questions on formulae).  Please delete the earlier post, posted exactly on 10-
09-2006 00:02.  Thanks.