I finally ran some tests on Tri-X, TMY, and Neopan 400 together in
Acutol.
I ran all three films at 1+14 for 8 minutes.
There has been a rumour floating around that due to the production

Pixel Counting Joins Film in Obsolete Bin
http://tinyurl.com/de4go
Can anyone recommend a good freezer?

Pixel Counting Joins Film in Obsolete Bin
http://tinyurl.com/de4go
Can anyone recommend a good freezer?

I was under the impression that paper developers affect all tones
equally, but here is one which enhances the midtones:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/photochemicals.html
Can anybody explain how this might work, please?

I'm looking for comments on the following tentative archival
monochrome sheet film (4x5) and paper processing routines to see if
there are any issues or improvements I can make.  For now I will
standardize on T-Max 100 developed in water-jacked trays (I realize

ARGH! No more manipulations... and we can't stick the film in the
freezer so we can't have a lifetime supply of the film.
http://www.polaroid.com/sx70/
Please be advised that Polaroid will be discontinuing the manufacture

My friend is an artist who uses a traditional camera and colour
negative film. She has always developed  colour photographs in a
darkroom (at college) and usually experiments with the colour of the
photos by adjusting the colour levels on the enlarger.

The illuminated dial on my Rodagon is not illuminating the F/stops when
used on either my durst M605 B&W, or my LPL 670 when I'm doing 35mm. Is
there an adjustment or slide I'm not seeing? It never bothered me until
I was at the B&H website and was looking at this lenses spec's. Am ...

I've shot a few rolls of Delta 100 which must have been well beyond
their expiration date and processed them using some Ilford DD-X from a
bottle that was open for over a year, although under Protectan. The
developer appeared  perfectly normal.

I used to have an article from Zone VI Studios about split filter paper developing. I moved, and can't find the directions. Anybody have some help on this please
--
foto phred
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I just posted this note on the large format group as it involves 4x5
negs developed in a traditional darkroom.
In the past few months I have printed two or three images from 4x5 negs
that have many very small white spots on the 16x20 print.  The negatives

Can anyone recommend a starting point if I was interested in lith
printing? I have developed and printed b&W before, but would like to
know more about lith printing.
Are the chemicals more expensive, it is possible to purchase "kits", I

I've been printing on Agfa FB for the last 8 or 9 years and am now
trying to find a substitute.
Does anyone have any recommendations?  And any comments on how their
recommends differ from Agfa?

i'm reading adam's book "the negative", but i haven't reached the dark
room chapters yet. i wouldn't want to jump forward and backward while
reading that book, then here i am with this question.
yesterday evening i was in my darkroom to develop some rolls i shot

I am trying to solarize some type 3 kodak lith film sheets, using their own
Kodalith A & B developer and some BW negatives. I am projecting 35mm negs
onto 8 x 10 lith sheets in hopes that getting a good solarization effect on
film will let me then print multiple copies, compared ...