I wear glasses to correct nearsightedness. When I look at the image in
the ground glass, now (with weakening eyes) I need to remove my glasses
and look at the image very closely. I don't mind this at all, but my
question is: Does it matter? That is to say, if the image in the ground

Another question for those who know something. I have some 8x10 photo
paper that I'm not entirely happy with the results of. I've been
exposing it at F22 (that's the third lowest F-Stop for my enlarger) for
15 seconds and I get nice blacks and grey tones. However, whites are

OK - my earlier post raises a new question:
Why is it that you shouldn't use cold developer? What happens? Does it
make film look overexposed if used cold? Please explain.

How long can you freeze color RA-4 process paper and still get good results
when you use it?

I'm preparing a normal fixer using:
1) Water 500ml
2) Sodium thiosulfate 120g
3) Sodium sulfite 10g

Anyone know what needs to be done to the 1501 for it to be able to run
b&w paper other than putting the b&w chemistry in it and changing the
temps?
Robert

Rollei seems to produce monochrome film, but does not understand the
details. I wait for a report from a person with the experience.
----
Tsutomu OTSUKA <press@mbox.kyoto-inet.or.jp>

Hi all, here a few questions about color process after my first experience:
1. In B/W process for a different film iso there is a different time of
develope bath. In color process developing 800 iso film is like developing
100 iso film?

I've been pondering about learning how to do color processing. My objective
would be to produce color prints, first maybe from already ready developed
negatives or slides, and eventually do the whole chain including film
developing (C41 or E6) as well. My motivation is to try and ...

ido!
where I find the formula for 2 baths developer Baumann Diafine ?
un fotime de merces! (thanks a lot) :-)

Another half roll ruined...
tonight I've tried to reverse half roll of T-Max 100 (@50).
I've souped it following the regular b&w reversal process but using a
copper sulfate based bleach instead.

I've started using delta100 in d-76 1:1 at the recommended time, and
ive noticed that my negs are very high contrast (taken in somewhat
contrasty conditions).  ive ended up printing them using a filter
somewhere in the 0-1 range.

can you recomend a digital device that turns negatives into prints by
scanning?  Go from negative to positive with an edit feature to burn
and dodge sections of the image?  Would these features be found only in
a computer program dedicated to visual editing?

do you know where I can find an instruction manual of Jobo TBE tempering
box?
TIA

In another thread, Rich says that he has standardized on the Formulary's ABC
pyro developer. I've just started using PMK myself so I wonder what the
preferences for pyro developers of other list members are and why.
-Lew