FOR SALE:Dark Room Equipment Liquidation -- Omega C670 Enlarger
PLUS!!!!!!!
UNICOLOR UNIROLLER DRUM AGITATOR + DRUM + FILTER
This is a NIB Unidrum II, 11x14 black & white, and COLOR print

im fresh out of highschool and am setting up my own darkroom in by
basement. i already have everything i need; with the notable exception
of a enlarger. im fairly experienced using an enlarger but totally
ignorant when it comes to recognizing quality. i was wondering what

I have recently been bringing an Omega D5 XL back to life and have to find
several bits and pieces.
I have picked up a tipple Lens Turret but I can't figure out which lens
discs I need for my 150mm 5.6 Schneider Kreuznach (aprox. 32mm dia.) and

    I have bought "Historic Photographic Processes" by Richard
Farber. Reading some parts of it I noticed that in every sensitizing
process is involved one or more dangerous chemicals. Now I ask myself
about the real danger they rappresent. There are a lot of exclamation

I bought a better lens, but I can't for the life of me get the retaining
ring off of my hold lens.  I have a nice spanner wrench and have put
oodles of force into the ring, but either I don't have the strength or the
wrench slips.

I recently acquired a used Durst C35 enlarger, but it came without a
manual. For the most part this isn't a big deal, but I'd still like to
have the manual for any tidbits it might have, like suggestions on using
the built-in filters. If somebody on the group has a manual they'd be

I develop all my film at home using a film chaging bag and until now
I've used the university darkroom to contact print my negs. I've
leaving in a couple of months so I'm going to be stuck.
I read somewhere someone contacted their negs using a digital camera?

Does diluting any given developer generally increase sharpness in all films
regardless? Is there a general rule for increasing development time when
diluting 1:1, 1:2, 1:3 etc.? I'm currently using XTOL at 1:1 but am
wondering will I gain much by trying dilutions of 1:2 or higher. ...

Last night I mixed up a new batch of E6 chemistry (Paterson photocolor kit).
In the 1st developer concentrate there were a few large crystals had formed
in the bottom (I'm talking big - 1/2" round there abouts). I tried shaking
the bottle but they wouldn't dissolve. I tried to ...

I want to have a go at taking some studio portraits in a similar style of
what you sometimes see in photo magazines of 1930s and 1940s Hollywood movie
stars.
I like lighting that gives good but not too harsh contrast and with

apr505 from Lloyd Erlick,
I'd like to discuss tonality, but I don't have the
vocabulary for it, beyond 'I like...' or 'I don't like
...'.

Has anyone here had any experience with the Heiland Splitgrade System
? , I'm thinking of getting it installed in my Durst 1200 , as I've
been having a few sessions on a V35 enlarger equipped with this system
with the comfort controller added I'm I've been very impressed both

For over 20 years I have enjoyed traditional photography, both color and
b/w.  I have also printed in both a color and a b/w darkroom for the
past 15 years.
The only print manipulation I perform is selective dodging, burning, and

Apr1105 from Lloyd Erlick.
Dickens on portraiture (from Oliver Twist) ...
'Are you fond of pictures, dear?' inquired the old lady, seeing
that Oliver had fixed his eyes, most intently, on a portrait

Anyone know how to figure out the expiration[1] date for photo paper?
There's a box of Kodak Polymax RC paper for sale, cheap, at one of my favorite
recycled-goods stores. It's apparently from a shop which went out of business,
and from the looks of the sticker seems to be maybe a ...