I messed up and shot a (120) roll Fuji Acros at 400ASA. I can't find any
literature at their site, or the massive development site for that combo.
I'd really like to save these shots.
Is there any general rule of thumb for increasing the development time,

Hello Folks, I bought a roll of Fomapan 100 from J and C Photo a week or two
ago, and processed it over the weekend.  I saw some things I didn't expect,
and I was wondering if someone could comment.
I exposed at 125 and developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 10 minutes, as

If anyone has already checked this I would appreciate the info.  When
using selenium as a negative intensifier, does it change the curve
proportionally or does it change it non-proportionally?
As I understand it(and my experience seems to support this), selenium

Me and my wife have just been getting into photography, so I setup a website
to view the pictures.  Http://www.myphotoexpressions.com
Any Critiques would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

I'm looking for a chelating agent, which binds to copper (II) in acidic
media with pH somewhere in the range 1 ... 2. I know of a few chelating
agents for copper (II), but they all tend to be most effective at the
basic side of the pH range.

Data point: in the latest Costco catalog (no, I'm not a member, it's someone
else's), out of their offering of 36 cameras, only *one* is not digital. (It's
a Konica Minolta Maxxum 70 SLR.) Can you say "nails in the coffin"?
DISCLAIMER: I'm no fan of digital. I love "traditional" ...

I have some Panalure selecct RC FM paper that I have been using
for making prints from b/w negatives. While I am pleased with the
quality of prints, I am having a big problem with some prints that
end up completely black.

A while ago, someone recommended Barry Thornton's book "Edge of Darkness".
I'd just like to say a big thank you to whoever that recommendation came
from.
After I first picked it up and started reading, I didn't want to put it

Hope someone out there can help me.
When I make a picture I get problems with the result.
Most of the picture is ok. But a few areas are not completely darkened. Like the blacks are not as black as in the rest of the picture. But the border to the other color is really black. And ...

These are a popular item at the local outdoors store in 1-qt. size.
Polycarbonate has the advantage of being unbreakable.  Since I
keep my chems in a closet I don't need amber coloration.  Does
anyone have a feel for the effectiveness of this material at keeping

A friend of mine need the electronic schematic fo his Jobo CPP-2 processor.
Thanks in advance,

i have been trying out various developers for paper and ansco 130 seems to
work well for me.
the glycin turns my solution a light  brown but doesn't seem to cause ant
problems with my prints so is it really a necessary additive?

Hi -
Sorry to clutter this board, but:
I need the 4 1/2" lens cone for the D-2, and the lens disc for 50mm
mount. If the part numbers appear (they don't always) they are 421-102

Yesteday I printed a few images on Ilford MG warmtone fiber paper. One
of them was quite underexposed, but there was an image to see.
However, after fixing, washing and hanging to dry, I found that the
image had all but vanished. This was after a few hours.

According to Kodak's instructions, an opened bottle of full-strength
XTOL lasts two months. I have a bottle that was opened two months and
one week ago. I have no doubt that two months is conservative and that
I can still use this bottle. But I'm wondering if there is some way to