I like to try these pyro developer to compare to ABC pyro, but one thing
I don't know is about quantities. WD2D+ is it just the same as WD2D with
some EDTA or there is some quantity changes in the others components ?
Philippe Ayral

I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however).
What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed
test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I.  Develop and test. In a
class I had a while back, I remember using a ...

nov1804 from Lloyd Erlick,
I came across this the other day.
--le
from “The New Yorker” magazine, Nov 1, 2004 issue (this

According to the data on the package of D76, the development time for
320Tri-x (TXP) using stock solution at 68 degrees is 9 minutes. I've
seen 6 min. published elsewhere. However, even with 9 mins. my
negatives are about 2 stops under exposed. I'm real curious what kind

I have few hours to train and loaded tank
in backpack. Digging thru archive.
Looking for good times for tri-x 400 rated
between 400-800 (d-23) - wedding

Anyone know who manufactures J & C classic 200 and 400 film?  Or are
they actually producing things themselves from old formulas?  Or what
known and current films they are most like?

There are tiny back spots all over my negs (white in the print) but
really tiny, only obvious at almost 6 to 8x enlargment.
Here is a section from a 400dpi scan of 35mm neg:
http://www.sukitesurfing.co.uk/spotting.jpg

anyone know of a protocol for calibrating scanning software to
traditional enlarger output?  i use my scanner to proof negatives, and
it seems logical to use the settings needed to produce a good scan to
produce a 'good' first print.  i think i have a basic idea how to

Greetings. Long time.
I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old
negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in
regular development.  Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix

Back in February I learned from the Net Wisdom about oil-immersion for
printing.
Next I need to know if anyone has a pointer to the hardware - glass negative
carriers - pictures or testimonials if possible, and if they are available

I am still struggling with removing dust from my slides and negatives -
both for archiving and scanning purposes. What methods would you
recommend? Is the combination of PEC-12 cleaner and PEC*PAD wipes a good
idea?

(I asked a question about using Photoshop to determine the correct dev.
time...this is another question):
If I have two negs, one shot at 1 sec at f/22 (the metered speed) and the
other at 1/15 at f/22, the first one should be at Zone V and the second at

     I needed some film and noticed the defective stuff. I'm wondering
if anybody has tried it yet? I've added two boxes to my order so I guess
I'll know sooner or later.
    Nick

When one has made the perfect print in 8x10 and then decides to go larger to
11x14 how much should the f stop be opened to comensate for the higher
magnifacation?
Michelle

Anyone got the data on the qualities of various materials for storing
chemicals? A while back someone posted a chart showing the relative
permeability of glass and various plastics, but I can't find it now and am
lazy. (I remember that PET was good, but I'd like to know just how ...