I've had a darkroom for years and its basically involved a light-tight
seal around the door, etc...It works fine, period.
I'm dealing with stuff now, however, where it would be more efficient
for me to have one of these doors (e.g. I want to leave paper,

     I now have a fully working unit. That's good. But I'm having
trouble getting the required 0.55 from my own grey negative. I've been
bouncing all around it but never closer then .58s across the board. Now I'm
using a grey negative I made myself. The unit I bought came with a Kodak

Hi. There was an article in the recent Photo Techniques which compared
the two developrs. My takeaway was that under some very limited
circumstances, according to the article, PMK was marginally superior
to D76, dependant on the kind of paper you planned on printing with.

I have this strange problem with APX 400 film: ON THE NEGATIVE I get
tiny DENSE spots with THIN HALOS. On the print it's tiny white dot
with dark halo.
The strange thing is I only get this problem with APX 400 + TMAX 1:9.

Newbie poster, I hope this is an ok group to post this on.
I've recently bought a Nikon F80 (N80 in US). I have enjoyed (in the past)
developing my own negs (b & w) with some success, however I've never been
able to get the dust free darkroom together where I can consistently print

Photo Friends
I  am the photo instructor for the City of Cape Coral Parks and Recreation
Photography Programs -  Last year I managed to open up a 5 station darkroom
to teach the darkroom arts;      Last Friday Hurricane Charley brought this

Anyone recommend a good online colour processing introduction? I thought
I'd have a dabble to see just how practical colour dev and printing will
be in my limited darkroom setup and am looking for a step-by-step type
guide to point me in the right direction.

Hi,
I recently shelled out $20 on e-bay for a sheet of heat absorbing
glass for my Beseler 23C II and am VERY disappointed to find that it
does absolutely nothing to resolve my negative popping issue. My

looking at the recommended development times for Efke 25 and Neofin Blu and
see: "with constant agitation 3.75 minutes, othewise 8 minutes." So much for
using a Jobo Expert - or not?  Fill and empty time would seem to be terribly
critical with 3.75 minute development time.

I am looking for a supplier that might carry antinewton glass in small
sheets. All I need is a small piece for my negative carrier, though. It is
too expensive to upgrade my present Durst carrier. If I only had somea/N
glass... Regards

I've just bought a used tank.  It seems very clean, but I would like
to be sure that there are no rests of chimical agents.
Wich is the best way of cleaning darkroom accessories like tanks or
bottles?

Hi, I'm Claudio from Rome.
I have a neopan 1600@3200 and id11 but not enough to develop it with stock
solution, anyone knows if I can develop it with 1+1 and which time?
Thanx

I have access to the beseler 23c II enlarger  Can someone please tell me if
I can use this for 120 film or is it just for 35mm??  If I can use it for
120 where can I get a carrier for it  thanks    Steve

I just acquired from an estate sale a Auto Omega D3 it has a
           Super Chromega Color Head
           Voltage Stabilizer H400
           Power Supply

All,
I have a question about potassium bromide in phenidone based
developers.
The formula for ID-68 is :