What are the benefits of water baths during printing, and what is the
proper procedure?
Thank you,
TSA

I've used Kodak's Sepia Toner (2 bath, regular and warmtone) for 10
years.  I just noticed on the label that the bleach and toning should
be done in the dark with only safelights.  Huh?  I've always toned
with room lights on, evidently without any problems.

Where do I start. I want to get a better grip on my whole photographic
process. How do I go about calibrating my camera, development and printing
process?

I'm going to give my aged glycin a try. I didn't realize it was so difficult
to dissolve tho. I want to make some D-3 print developer (Cookbook #67).
Should I use any special dilution procedure or just mix it normally?

This is not, strictly speaking, a darkroom question, but I'm not sure where
else to turn for help. I mount my prints on 4-ply, archival board, and own
some other photographers' prints mounted the same way. Winters where I live
are humid, and some of the older boards are starting to ...

I am thinking about trying Fuji Acros 100 in ID-11 1:1.  Has anyone
tried this?  What development times did you come up with?  What do the
negs look like?  What temp / agitation? Any and all information in
regard with this combination is greatly appreciated!

Has anyone tried this combination? I'm looking for nice tonality, don't care
much about the grain.
Ifordpan400 was very nice in R09 1:100, I hope Neopan will be better;-)
Blazej

Dear Sir.
Your contact information was referred to me by one of my trusted
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Hy,
anyone tried double weight Kodak Polymax Fine art?
What do you think about this paper?
Thank

I'm a newbie to large-format, but I finally got a winner (in the form of a
4x5 negative).  Unfortunately I also see a couple scratches on the
negative likely due to tray development.  
Can anybody advise on the best way to make a print using my DII enlarger

I still have 5 bricks and a bit of 120 Verichrome Pan that I'm either going
to use or put up for sale (email privately if interested). I was using PMK
to process the negs but never really was able to get consistent, evenly
developed negs despite trying all sorts of tricks. Half the ...

I've been using Ilford's ID-11 for developing Kodak HIE and have been pretty
satisfied iwth the results.  On the other hand, it is impossible to find in
local stores, so I have to mail order it.  Since D-76 seems much easier to
find, I wondered if any of you have had good luck using ...

OK so I'm too cheap to buy "real" developing trays. I went down to the local
hardware store and bought "dish trays" to develop my 8X10 stock. They're
perfect in almost everyway (cheap, size and easy to hold on to) except one,
the prints tend to want to sit on the bottom. Is there ...

I've been looking into trying Efka25 a try and was wondering if anyone has a
recommendation for what developer I should use for it. For those that don't know
I use a Jobo processor, I like dilute developers, I'm more interested in
tonality then grain. I also am not interested in ...

     Everybody says to avoid long exposures with RA-4 because of
reciprocity issues. Fine but what's long? I've got some overly dense cross
processed negatives and one stop from wide  open they need at LEAST 20
seconds. Even that to my eye looks like they could use a little burning in ...