I have been doing B&W processing for 30 years and have always used D-76 or D-76
1:1 for all of my processing. Seemed to work good all of these years.
After reading about diafine this week I ordered some. Seems like it could be
the best general all around developer.

Application of Farmer (split and combined) to Agfa PE and baryta
papers result in an ugly yellowish stain. Thiocarbamide is of no help.
I wonder if there are some brands which allow highlight reduction by
Farmer without staining. (I am not looking for alternatives like

I'm testing Efke KB 25 + pyro, esposed at 12 iso, sometime I need long
expositions time, but I'haven't found data for reprocity failure of this
Film.
In your experience the data of APX 25 is similar ?

I am a great fan of b&w photography and considering purchasing a camera to
just do that. I am torn between going for a medium format or just going for
a high pixel digital camera. I know most of you here would argue you could
never replicate the quality of what you'll get on a ...

As a (35 mm) slide-film, up to now I've been using Fuji Sensia 100, and I've
been thinking about an upgrade to Velvia 100F, of maybe Provia 100F(they
have finer grain, don't they ?).
Since I'm leaving to Morroco for a two-week trip next week, I don't have

I was wondering if anyone has had problems with the head in regards to
using the lift lever to raise the head.
After pulling the lever all the way to raise the head, I have to
phyisically push the head up further to slide a neg carrier in.  This

I bought a used Beseler dichro g color head.  When I went in the other room,
the kids turned it on for about three minutes without the fan running.
Should I be worried about any heat damage to the internal filters from this?

Last week in various extreme environments (anywhere from -10 to 70f)
shooting various pics with my FE2 and an MD12.
I shot about 3 rolls of slides and one roll of cn.
When I developed this film my first roll (provia100f) only had about

I know that this has been asked here before, but google doesn't supply
a suitable answer.  Everybody seemed to want to talk about lowering
the voltages on bulbs, not using LEDs.
I have a pair of red LED bicycle taillights;  three red LEDs each, red

Thank you all for your great contribution to this NG.
I am looking to improve the quality of my prints and I was wondering if
upgrading to a Nikon 50mm f2.8 or similar 6 element lenses you might
recommend would show an appreciable difference?   I use Tmax 100  in Tmax Rs

Patrick,
I did some prints with the new PQ staining developer last night and
everything you said was correct. The prints print more contrasty than
they appear by eye. It's also very, very active (10% Q and 0.25gms Pheni

I have a Durst M606 whose lensboards are treaded for M25 lenses;  I
would like to be able to use a newer M39 lens on my enlarger.  
Are step-down rings from 39mm to 25mm available, and where can they be
found?

I have read a number of posting that rate TRI-X at 280 ISO but I have never
heard how the film is processed.  Is there a set of guidelines for processing
TRI-X at leaser ISO?
Alan Tippett

All of my exposures are to contrasty with the new Professional TRI-X.  I have
tried to over come this by rating the 320 film at 400 and reducing the
development time, I use D76 (undiluted).  
Am I going about the right direction to reduce the contrast or am I making it

Can anyone share their experiences with either of these? What do they
actually do? How do they do it? What's in them? Are there any ryo
equivalents?
-Lew