I'm just starting up a darkroom after a 20 yr hiatus. Do I understand
correctly that both XTol and D76 may be replenished indefinitely? What
drawbacks, cautions are there? Are there any other candidates for infinite
replenishment?

The Kodak Rapid Fixer Formula F8 (sans hardener) calls for 360 grams
of thiosulfate, and 50 grams of ammonium chloride per liter. What then
is the dilution for film and paper? Are the times just like the liquid
Rapid Fix by Kodak?

Every now and then I see a reference to DK50 replenisher, but I can't find
any information about it on the Kodak site. Does such a formulation exist?
Is it available anywhere?
-Lew

Hypo eliminator (HE-1: a dilute mixture of household ammonia
and hydrogen peroxide) is regarded as a _bad thing_ because
it gets all the hypo out and apparently a little bit of hypo
left in the paper helps preserve the image.

i have a lucky 60M-C enlarger by fuji but really need a user's manual
for this.  can anyone assist?  any help would be appreciated.
thanks

I've gotten some good results experimenting with Pyrocat as a stand
developer, with the exception of pronounced liquid marks, (not
bubbles)where the Paterson reels hold the film. Oddly, only on one
side lengthwise and not the other. Any suggestions on how to ditch

When I first started developing I used an acetic acid stop bath for
quite a while.  The stuff stinks the worst out of all my chems and I
was really getting sick of it.  
When I bought a PMK Pyro kit about a year ago I noticed they

     Since I've basically decided that the probe on my anaylser is
wonky I tried to do the process without it. Using the starting filtration
numbers for the paper I ended up with a print that is too red. Looking at
the help section of the Kodak document they suggest removing cyan ...

If an acid stop bath is used, I use Citric Acid, will any carryover
into the F8 Fixer be a problem? Is a different Fixer solution prefered
when using an acid stop bath?

It has gone dark here in the UK now and the seasonal damp Christmas mud lies
deep, crisp and even.
I would like to give my best wishes to all my fellow photographers here and
overseas and hope that Father Christmas doesn't bring me an inkjet printer.

I recently was given a Sola laboratory supply and was wondering if if would
be benefitial for B&W printing on my Bessler 67s dichro?  I haven't been in
the darkroom for a long time and remember color printing without a supply
was frustrating.  For now, I just want to do B&W.

After developing a couple of rolls of film this afternoon, I hung them to
dry from a shower curtain rod in a small, out of the way bathroom, thinking
that they would be safe from being handled by visiting guests.
This is one of those few cool days in Florida when we feel a need to ...

I've just been looking at the Ilford website at the datasheet for their
Multigrade IV Paper.
http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/mgivrc.pdf
It states that If you have access to a "photometer" it is possible to

Iodine is used as in Crawleys FX-1 high actuance developer, albeit
in homeopathic (50ml of 0.001% == .5mg / l) amounts.
Given Microdol-X is D-23 with the addition of salt, might it not
be a bad idea to use Morton's Iodized in a DIY Microdol-X.

Take a look at my new photography site at http://www.michael-mccarthy.com
Thanks,
Michael