I am in the process of building a new darkroom, since I'm having to
give up my old space for other uses.
I have known that this was coming for a while, and so I had quite a
bit of time to plan out the new darkroom, and construction is going

Does anybody know who makes the Jessop Pan 100 and 400ASA 35mm film stock?

This is one of the many reasons I like Kodak:
In article <blsdrb$ioe$1@news.kodak.com>,
"Ron Baird" <ronbaird@kodak.com> wrote:

Kodak stock dropped sharply this morning (down 12% from yesterday) in
response to this news release:
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/pressReleases/pr20030925-01.shtml
Underneath the optimistic tone of the news release is the assumption that

Dear Relatives, Friends and Associates in the World of Chess:
Heil Dubya!
Today is 8 October and I must appear in court on 15 October, so I am sending a
reminder to everyone in my AOL "Address Book", except the three persons who

I made my first fiber prints a couple days ago.  They are now dried but I
think the "dry-down" effect got me.  The prints are much darker...I don't
recall my test prints being this dark.  
Chalk one up for experience...whats the best way to compensate for this?

This was posted to the group in 1996, by Michael Gudzinowicz:
"Borax was used in fine grain developers not only to act as a mild
"activator", but also as an emulsion hardener to prevent swelling.
Boric acid is used in some fixers for the same reason - as a hardener"

Ok. gang , I hope this topic is sufficiently non-controversial....No flame
wars PLEASE.....
I am just switching to Tmax RS and TMX in 4x5. I plan to use 1:9 dilution as
suggested by other people here for great tonality and sharpness.. Now my

My question concerns enlarger bulbs.
It would seem to me that there would be no difference between an ordinary
light bulb and a light bulb specifically for an enlarger but I put it to the
newsgroup. I'm not talking about the particular base. My enlarger is an

I've been using Ilford FP4 for a while now: exposure at 64 ISO,
development in ID11, 1+1, 20 degrees, 10 minutes (as the suggested 8 min
always led to too low contrast). Even with this longer development time
I find that I have to use filter 3.5 or higher exept in really high

Anybody use any product to keep oxygen out of developers? I picked up
something called 'Private Reserve' wine preserver today, to use with
my concentrates. It's a blend of N2, CO2, and Argon.

During a prosperous period I bought a lot (cases) of film and put it in
the deepfreeze (-20F).  So far all has been well with the films I use
most, until yesterday when I went to reshoot a scene I had done in Maco
120 IR with Kodak 4x5 HSI which had expired 04/2001. The film was

I've been using Diaphine since spring when dealing with difficult contrast
scenes and when using my point and shoots.  I've found it to be an amazing
developer with good grain and the speed increase is a nice bonus. I've
noticed that there is another developer made by the same ...

A very foggy Friday night led to me shooting a whole roll of cityscape
pictures after midnight with Kodak TMZ, alias P3200.  I used 3200 as my
EI and shot most of the images at 1/30th second, f/3.5 (as wide open as
the lens allowed - I was using an old Ansco Super Memar).  I ...

If I want to tone dried prints (with Kodak Brown toner), should I re-wash
them for awhile?
What if I already spotted the print?  Will the black spots look out of
place now?