my english is poor .i known indusry design a little.

Try your local library and look for a book titled
"Photographing Art Work" or something similar. I
don't know the exact title and there are probably
more than one in publication. There's no big secret
to it - it's all about LIGHTING and not about which
camera you use necessarily. That means avoiding
lighting setups that induce a glare, avoiding using
flash, and other common-sense matters.

The good thing
about digital photography is that you no longer have
to worry as much about color correctness in matching
film type to light source since you can do all the
correcting on your computer using software. There
are dozens of imaging software programs available
so your research might center on learning which one
most photographers find most useful. I personally
find Microsoft's PICTURE IT auto-correct features to
be just about all I need for correcting my photos,
although there is no correction for lens distortion
and some other things that more sophisticated software
allows. And don't overlook the software that came
with your digital camera.

Photographing paintings is a profession requiring specialty equipment,
lenses , crossed Polaroids. parallel easels etc.

One way to get around this is to scan the painting in parts and stitch
them together in than computer. You can also use a digital cameras and
in diffused light and check the position of the copy to avoid glare.
You can also use crossed Polaroid for this.

I

SteveR,

My wife is an iconograph.
Some of her icons are too large to scan.
I found the best way of photogrphing her icons is outside, in a
semi-shade.
The problem is to line up the lens with the centre of the photograph
and keep a perpendicular line so as not to have parallax.

Marcel

As I said, don't use the camera control at all. Take the photographs
'raw'. Then use the manufacturer supplied software to set exactly the
white balance you want and then convert them to tiff, jpg or whatever
suits you.

--
 "But God doesn't exist"
"Let's hope so, Let's hope so" - dialogue from Le Fate ignoranti
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Steve, use a 50 - 55 mm lense.  The painting needs to be hung on the
wall exactly at 90 degrees, and the camera lens needs to be pointed
exactly in the center of the painting, and two photoflood lights need to
be located exactly at 45 degree angles from the center of the work, at
the same level.

Use a wall.  Use tape to strike a line on the floor which is
perpendicular to the wall.  Use tape to strike two lines on the floor
which are 45 degrees on each side of the perpendicular line.

Center your tripod above the perp. line - you can move it in and out
along the line to adjust for the various sizes of the art.  Measure from
the floor up to the center of the painting, and then from the floor up
to the center of your lense, raising or lowering the tripod as needed.

After you have everything positioned, you'll need a hand held light
meter to check for hot spots.  You want to take your readings near the
surface of the art, and systematically scan the art and check the light
readings (with the Photofloods on, of course.)  If there is a hot spot,
you'll need to tweak the positions of the lights to get rid of it.  This
is important, since you can't see the subtle hot spots.

Camera quality is important.  Lens barreling will be the big problem,
followed by the problem that most camera's viewfinders do not represent
the true size of the image being photographed.  View finders typically
show something like 95% of what will be recorded, or 110%.  The only
camera I know or that will give you 100% is a Nikon F series - and the
Nikor 55mm lense will not barrel at the distance you'll be working with.
 I'm sure there are others, but you'll be in the high-end camera terrain.

I have a Nikon 5700 digital camera, and I would hesitate to use it for
paintings.  I also have a Nikon F-3 film camera, and if I wanted to
photograph professionally done images of artwork I would use that.  At
this point, since you seem to want to use a digital camera, I would try
to find a camera with the features mentioned above - view finder and
lens barreling.  Maybe some folks on this forum can recommend a digital
camera that has these features - but I think you'll get back into the
"professional" grade, rather than the "prosummer" grade such as the 9500.

If you're good at Photoshop, you can procces the image to bring it the
standards you desire.  You can straighten out edges and do color
compensation to get a pretty decent representation of your painting.

      This all depends on how large you will
print these images.  4 Megapixels is only good
up to about 8x10.

      Use 500 watt Tungsten lamps, two of them
at 45 degree angles.  With vellum sheets over
each of them for diffusing the light.  Adjust the
angle if the glare is too much.  Make sure you
set your digital camera to "tungsten" for the
white balance.

     4 Megapixels is good enough for a website
though:

     
www.DrSlick.org