Nigel--
Thanks for the response. I was finally able to successfully test the
45's this afternoon as a friend came up with the necessary battery
holders for mounting in the handles. I'd still like to power those
off of a mains supply for studio use...and since he found a couple of
adapters that fit a Quantum battery and plug into the battery holder
hole in the handle I think I'll be set.
However, I've no such luck on the 60's The only power input for those
handles are the odd three-conductor cords that plug into the external
batt box/chargers. I believe the dryfit batteries that go into those
are toast, as my attempts to charge them have been unsuccessful.
I don't want to invest in expensive batteries at this point until I
verify the flashes work...and would rather use them off the mains
anyway. Do you have any idea about how much voltage is provided to
the 60 through those cables...and what the polarity might be?
>I use both those flash guns regularly - I have never had the need to use
>mains power with them, a fully charged high capacity NiMH set of AA cells
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>> crosspost as I'm not certain which group is best for this...
>> ** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
Morton Linder - 26 Dec 2005 03:22 GMT
> Nigel--
>
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>
> ** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
Did you ask Metz in Germany for info? If you're in the USA, did you ask
Bogen, who imports Metz?
Morton
prc1 - 26 Dec 2005 23:16 GMT
>> Nigel--
>>
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
>
>Morton
Metz Germany gave me a little info but referred me to Bogen US.
Bogen sent a couple of instruction sheets that were hard -to-read
(multiple generation photocopies) and didn't answer my questions about
compatibility other than being able to use the flash in A and M modes,
not E-TTL. I'm wondering also if I can hook up the remote sensors to
the hotshoe (are they compatible?) and trigger the flash from there.
** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
Philip Homburg - 26 Dec 2005 11:46 GMT
>However, I've no such luck on the 60's The only power input for those
>handles are the odd three-conductor cords that plug into the external
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>anyway. Do you have any idea about how much voltage is provided to
>the 60 through those cables...and what the polarity might be?
The dryfit batteries in the 60 series are 6V. So, if you connect a 6V lab
power supply to the battery terminals, you should be able to charge the
capacitor and verify that the whole thing works.

Signature
That was it. Done. The faulty Monk was turned out into the desert where it
could believe what it liked, including the idea that it had been hard done
by. It was allowed to keep its horse, since horses were so cheap to make.
-- Douglas Adams in Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency
dj_nme - 26 Dec 2005 15:03 GMT
>>However, I've no such luck on the 60's The only power input for those
>>handles are the odd three-conductor cords that plug into the external
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> power supply to the battery terminals, you should be able to charge the
> capacitor and verify that the whole thing works.
Also, if the batteries aren't available there is another option.
I can't remember the website I saw it on, but it looked like a viable idea.
The crafty person made fake batteries out of wooden dowel with brass
contacts (maybe chromed srews?) to make contact with the battery
contacts in the compartment that are connected to a power supply outside
the flashgun.
I think they had to make a notch in the battery compartment cover in
order to run a power cable from the fake batteries out to a power supply
(which could be more easily bought batteries or a plugpack/wall wart).
dj_nme - 26 Dec 2005 15:19 GMT
>>> However, I've no such luck on the 60's The only power input for those
>>> handles are the odd three-conductor cords that plug into the external
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> order to run a power cable from the fake batteries out to a power supply
> (which could be more easily bought batteries or a plugpack/wall wart).
I found a good example here:
<http://www.texasphotoforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5556>
prc1 - 26 Dec 2005 23:12 GMT
>>>However, I've no such luck on the 60's The only power input for those
>>>handles are the odd three-conductor cords that plug into the external
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>order to run a power cable from the fake batteries out to a power supply
>(which could be more easily bought batteries or a plugpack/wall wart).
Yes, that would work for some flashes. Not the 60, however. There
are no capabilities for a built-in battery pack; the external battery
pack/charger holds the battery. Rigging an external adaptor in this
situation would be...kind of silly. I do have a couple of Vivitar
flashes that could benefit, though...
** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
Joe Blow - 27 Dec 2005 00:48 GMT
Just remove the 2 screws to take apart the Dryfit battery pack. The
CT60's dryfit battery pack is made up of 5 C sized NiCad cells
soldered serially into a 6V battery. You can get relatively cheap
NiMH cells to replace the NiCad cells.
>Nigel--
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>anyway. Do you have any idea about how much voltage is provided to
>the 60 through those cables...and what the polarity might be?
Philip Homburg - 27 Dec 2005 11:27 GMT
>Just remove the 2 screws to take apart the Dryfit battery pack. The
>CT60's dryfit battery pack is made up of 5 C sized NiCad cells
>soldered serially into a 6V battery. You can get relatively cheap
>NiMH cells to replace the NiCad cells.
You are talking about the NiCd pack. The dryfit pack is sealed.

Signature
That was it. Done. The faulty Monk was turned out into the desert where it
could believe what it liked, including the idea that it had been hard done
by. It was allowed to keep its horse, since horses were so cheap to make.
-- Douglas Adams in Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency
prc1 - 28 Dec 2005 16:17 GMT
I got really excited for a minute there...thanks for pointing that
out. I was wondering how well a NiMH pack would charge up in a NiCad
charger anyway...
>>Just remove the 2 screws to take apart the Dryfit battery pack. The
>>CT60's dryfit battery pack is made up of 5 C sized NiCad cells
>>soldered serially into a 6V battery. You can get relatively cheap
>>NiMH cells to replace the NiCad cells.
>
>You are talking about the NiCd pack. The dryfit pack is sealed.
** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
Joe Blow - 28 Dec 2005 22:38 GMT
It doesn't matter if it's dryfit or NiCad. The key is to re-use the
battery container as it fits the charger pack which the flash plugs
into. If there are no screws, just cut it open with a dremel tool and
tape it back together when battery has been replaced with 5 X C cells.
As for charging NiMH or NiCad batteries, these two can be charged with
the same charger because both can accept high current. Just don't mix
NiCad or NiMH with LiIon chargers because Lithium Ion batteries can't
take high current.
I use a Maha C777Plus2 charger to charge & discharge the Metz battery
pack along with a whole bunch of other camera batteries.
If you prefer to use the Metz charger pack to charge the battery, just
be aware that there's a metal tab you have to flip to choose between
charging the dryfit battery vs NiCad battery.
>I got really excited for a minute there...thanks for pointing that
>out. I was wondering how well a NiMH pack would charge up in a NiCad
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>** To respond, remove the crap from my addy... **
Geoffrey S. Mendelson - 28 Dec 2005 23:41 GMT
> It doesn't matter if it's dryfit or NiCad. The key is to re-use the
> battery container as it fits the charger pack which the flash plugs
> into. If there are no screws, just cut it open with a dremel tool and
> tape it back together when battery has been replaced with 5 X C cells.
A hair dryer may work better. It won't open the cases ultrasonicly welded
together, but it will open the ones that are hot glued.
Geoff.

Signature
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