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Photo Forum / General Photo Topics / General Topics / May 2005Best multi-purpose film
Speed, brand, range. For shots in daylight conditions, dusk and some night photography. Also, how does stepping down ISO's from, say, 800 to 100 effect the shots? > Speed, brand, range. For shots in daylight conditions, dusk and some > night photography. Also, how does stepping down ISO's from, say, 800 > to 100 effect the shots? daylight conditions clearer and less grain. For dusk and night conditions, if you use a tripod and there is no movement in the shot, such as people, cars or wind movement in the trees, then only the grain size and exposure time will change. Perrian > > Speed, brand, range. For shots in daylight conditions, dusk and some > > night photography. Also, how does stepping down ISO's from, say, 800 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Perrian Are there any repercussions tp slowing film down? I know the ramifications of speeding up include increased grain. Although, the other day I was shooting some 100 speed and it got really dark out really quick, so I sped it up to 1000 and at 4x6 it was virtually unnoticeable. I'm sure this would be different if it were a larger print, but for snapshot purposes it made almost no difference. Regards, Ben > Are there any repercussions tp slowing film down? Different films will have slightly different behaviours. I think the best thing you can do is to put "pull process" film into Google. Ah, but that would affect the entire film... Are you wanting to have your cake and eat it? So that you can use the same film for bright stuff and dark stuff...? Colour negative film is VERY tolerant to being buggered about with exposure-wise (2½ stops either way* I believe) but it sounds like you really need a digital camera. And no I'm not being facetious, it's a convenience thing - change the ISO sensitivity at the press/flick/turn of a button/switch/dial. *This means you would be able to "get away with" using a 400ISO film between 100 and 1600, but don't expect the images to be put on a calendar! Best regards, Craig. > Different films will have slightly different behaviours. I think the best > thing you can do is to put "pull process" film into Google. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > *This means you would be able to "get away with" using a 400ISO film between > 100 and 1600, but don't expect the images to be put on a calendar! I didn't take your comment as sarcasm at all. FWIW, I am in the evaluatin stages on that as we type. Which brings me to a question I was wondering about - in terms of digi cams and ISO, can you both manually set it and have what is tantamount to apperture/shutter priorities? Meaning the camera, when in the "ISO automatic" mode (if it exists) determines the correct "speed" exposure? Regards, Ben > I didn't take your comment as sarcasm at all. FWIW, I am in the > evaluatin stages on that as we type. If it helps, I am leaning heavily towards the N80... > in terms of digi cams and ISO, can you both > manually set it and have what is tantamount to apperture/shutter > priorities? Meaning the camera, when in the "ISO automatic" mode (if > it exists) determines the correct "speed" exposure? Yes. This is likely to vary by camera. So, there are 3 exposure variables that can be set to automatic or manual - shutter speed, aperture, sensitivity (ISO). > If it helps, I am leaning heavily towards the N80... Huh?? :-) Richard > > in terms of digi cams and ISO, can you both > > manually set it and have what is tantamount to apperture/shutter [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Huh?? :-) LOL! I am leaning so much towards the N80 that I have had it for ten years. I meant to say I am looking at the D70! Ben >>> Speed, brand, range. For shots in daylight conditions, dusk and some >>> night photography. Also, how does stepping down ISO's from, say, 800 [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ben Lowering the actual film speed and under developing reduces contrast, which can be useful if you have taken pictures in a high contract situation. You can't change the speed mid roll, it has to be the whole film. > the other day I was shooting some 100 speed and it got really dark out > really quick, so I sped it up to 1000 and at 4x6 it was virtually > unnoticeable. Wow. In effect, what you did was underexpose by 3+ full stops, and the print processor automatically overexposed the print to compensate. (Changing the ISO just adjusts the meter.) I'm surprised it wasn't muddy looking (lack of contrast). You can also ask the processor to "push" or "pull" the process to over/under develop the negatives, but this affects the entire roll. As comparison, digital lets you change the ISO frame-by-frame without requiring special processing on the back-end. Potentially, letting you set the shutter speed and aperture manually, and auto-adjusting the ISO for proper exposure. Pretty powerful, really. Richard > Speed, brand, range. For shots in daylight conditions, dusk and some > night photography. Also, how does stepping down ISO's from, say, 800 > to 100 effect the shots? I only use Fuji colour negative film so that's all I can fairly comment on. I would suggest their NPZ (800 ISO) or NPH (400 ISO) and I always overexpose by about 1/2 stop to increase the colour saturation. Fuji Velvia slide film (50 ISO, replaced by a new 100 ISO film) gives fantastic colour saturation in daytime conditions, and when used at dawn or dusk the reciprocity failure (due to long exposure times) produces beautiful colour shifts suited to landscapes! If you're going from one extreme to the other i.e. daylight to night photography, have you thought about rewinding your film halfway through usage? This is easy for me as I have a Nikon FM which is fully manual so I can cease rewinding before the end of the film is fully retracted inside the cassette. It's a case of advancing the film the said number of frames already used (plus a couple extra for safety!) with the lens cap on at a fast shutter speed, in a darkened area to carry on using the film again. Best regards, Craig. |
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