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Photo Forum / General Photo Topics / General Topics / February 2005

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Lighting

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joe - 28 Feb 2005 01:11 GMT
> Hi everyone,
> Im completely new to studio lighting so here goes...got 2 Bowens Monolite
> 400ES AND 1 800E and I want to do portraits. Was advised the 800 was too
> strong and to purchase two other 400 lights to lights the background (to
get
> white backgrounds) Have seen  2 250 Prolinca flash heads on ebay. Does
> anyone know if this would be sufficient.Also seen bowens monlite 200D.
Would
> these be better or would I need something stronger?
> Grateful for any help.Thanks
+++++++++++++++++++

Your equipment is meaningless without first understanding how to control the
light. Portrait lighting can be as simple and quite effective with ONE
umbrella and flash unit with daylight balanced north light..or go crazy with
multiple hair lights, spot lights for specular reflection and isolation
etc..see what I mean?
How far are you from the target? What background are you using? Groups or
individual shoot..and the list goes on..essentially, what are you tryng to
acomplish?
You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
techniques are different between the two formats.
RSD99 - 28 Feb 2005 01:36 GMT
"joe" posted:
"...
You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
techniques are different between the two formats.
..."

They are?

Please explain.

> > Hi everyone,
> > Im completely new to studio lighting so here goes...got 2 Bowens Monolite
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
> techniques are different between the two formats.
joe - 28 Feb 2005 01:51 GMT
> You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
> techniques are different between the two formats.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Please explain.
++++++++++++++++++

Sure..without going into a complete tutorial. :)
1) CCD's are not very tolerent with bright light.
2) WB latitude is more limited in Digital compared to film.
3) Hot lights are easier to control in digital, though cumbersome.
4) Film is better suited to tungsten lighting than digital..i.e..exposure
times

Don't misunderstand me..I love digital and it currently occupies 95% of all
my shoots...It's just that lighting in digital requires much more care than
film, especially when using strobes.
There are many fine articles that explain the diff between digital
portraiture and film when it comes to studio lighting techniques.
Fitpix - 28 Feb 2005 02:00 GMT
>> You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
>> techniques are different between the two formats.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> There are many fine articles that explain the diff between digital
> portraiture and film when it comes to studio lighting techniques.

I do disagree here Joe, I have been shooting for 2 years now w Canon DSLRs
and using studio flashes.They behave the same for me as they did when I shot
film. digital vs film tungsten times are exactly the same at the same ISO
raing.....an exposure is an exposure. 1/60th @ f8.0 on film = 1/60th @ f8.0
on digi as long as you have the same ISO.
D
www.delawarestudio.com
www.pbase.com/fitpix
RSD99 - 28 Feb 2005 02:40 GMT
I agree. If you know how to do "studio lighting," it makes absolutely NO
difference what kind of image capture device you use. Be it wet plates, LF
sheet film, MF roll film, 35 mm, or digital ... they are all the same when
"the rubber hits the road."

> >> You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
> >> techniques are different between the two formats.
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> www.delawarestudio.com
> www.pbase.com/fitpix
joe - 28 Feb 2005 03:30 GMT
> I agree. If you know how to do "studio lighting," it makes absolutely NO
> difference what kind of image capture device you use. Be it wet plates, LF
> sheet film, MF roll film, 35 mm, or digital ... they are all the same when
> "the rubber hits the road."

Hmmmm? So longer exposure times on digital don't produce artifact? Hmmm?
Owamanga - 28 Feb 2005 13:05 GMT
>> I agree. If you know how to do "studio lighting," it makes absolutely NO
>> difference what kind of image capture device you use. Be it wet plates, LF
>> sheet film, MF roll film, 35 mm, or digital ... they are all the same when
>> "the rubber hits the road."
>
>Hmmmm? So longer exposure times on digital don't produce artifact? Hmmm?

Noise you mean?

How long do you need with a strobe?

10 minutes?

Try using a flash guns instead of a Christmas tree light.

<g>

--
Owamanga!
Fitpix - 28 Feb 2005 15:45 GMT
>> I agree. If you know how to do "studio lighting," it makes absolutely NO
>> difference what kind of image capture device you use. Be it wet plates,
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Hmmmm? So longer exposure times on digital don't produce artifact? Hmmm?

The OP mentioned strobes which you said with film were different than
digital, they are not. You said that CCDs can't handle bright light well...I
am not a technician, but a photographer who uses Canon DLSRs w a CMOS chip.
Does this mean all those guys using Nikon are wrong because they use strobes
w their CCD Nikon bodies? "WB latitude is more limited in digital" makes no
sense because there is no WB in film. There are however daylight and
tungsten ballanced films. I can w a turn of a thumb wheel switch on a
digital SLR change between the two. Yep, you do get noise in longer
exposures, but exposures that long would be worthless in
portraiture....people tend to be on the move. Also, if this is such a big
worry why didn't you list it in the first place?  And please, before you
take the "Oh he is just another digital advocate" get over it, I advocate
photography in all its forms, but I even more so, advocate the sharing of
correct information. I shot professionally for 13 years on film before
switching, some of my best work is on film.

Be safe,
D
www.delawarestudio.com
www.pbase.com/fitpix
 
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