Advice on studio flash lighting

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Margaret - 25 Feb 2005 18:34 GMT

Hi everyone,
Im completely new to studio lighting so here goes...got 2 Bowens Monolite
400ES AND 1 800E and I want to do portraits. Was advised the 800 was too
strong and to purchase two other 400 lights to lights the background (to get
white backgrounds) Have seen 2 250 Prolinca flash heads on ebay. Does
anyone know if this would be sufficient.Also seen bowens monlite 200D. Would
these be better or would I need something stronger?
Grateful for any help.Thanks

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Randall Ainsworth - 26 Feb 2005 03:30 GMT

> Hi everyone,
> Im completely new to studio lighting so here goes...got 2 Bowens Monolite
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> these be better or would I need something stronger?
> Grateful for any help.Thanks

You don't have to run 'em at full power, you know. 100W per light for
head-and-shoulders work should be more than adequate.

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joe - 28 Feb 2005 01:09 GMT

+++++++++++++++++++

Your equipment is meaningless without first understanding how to control the
light. Portrait lighting can be as simple and quite effective with ONE
umbrella and flash unit with daylight balanced north light..or go crazy with
multiple hair lights, spot lights for specular reflection and isolation
etc..see what I mean?
How far are you from the target? What background are you using? Groups or
individual shoot..and the list goes on..essentially, what are you tryng to
acomplish?
You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
techniques are different between the two formats.

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RSD99 - 28 Feb 2005 01:37 GMT

"joe" posted:
"...
You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
techniques are different between the two formats.
..."

They are?

Please explain.

> > Hi everyone,
> > Im completely new to studio lighting so here goes...got 2 Bowens Monolite
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> You failed to mention of you are shooting digital or film? Lighting
> techniques are different between the two formats.

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dj_nme - 28 Feb 2005 03:02 GMT

>>>Hi everyone,
>>>Im completely new to studio lighting so here goes...got 2 Bowens
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
>
> Please explain.

(top post fixed)
My take on it is as follows:
With digital you can have instant feedback as to whether exposure,
lighting angles and composition are correct.
This can be corrected very quickly by using the the LCD to review images.
With film, there is always a slight unkown factor (even for experienced
photogs) as to how the image will turn out and the need to develop the
film to see how it turned out.

Digital can allow more room for creativity because of instant feedback.
Instant (reletively) feedback for film means using Polaroid backs and
hoping your tranny film will respond in exactly same way.

Just my 2 cents.

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Randall Ainsworth - 28 Feb 2005 05:02 GMT

In article
<422289d9$0$4721$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, dj_nme

> My take on it is as follows:
> With digital you can have instant feedback as to whether exposure,
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Instant (reletively) feedback for film means using Polaroid backs and
> hoping your tranny film will respond in exactly same way.

I always knew before I pressed the bulb (old air release kinda guy)
because I knew exactly what my lights were putting out...I could see
the highlight/shadow effects...I didn't need no steenking LCD.

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RSD99 - 28 Feb 2005 11:59 GMT

"dj_nme" posted:
"...
(top post fixed)
..."

Then ... why the h*## didn't you trim?

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dj_nme - 28 Feb 2005 12:03 GMT

> "dj_nme" posted:
> "...
> (top post fixed)
> ..."
>
> Then ... why the h*## didn't you trim?

Why didn't you?
I didn't because I wanted to preserve the flow of the discussion thread.

A: It destroys the logical flow of ideas in a thread.
Q: Why is top-posting a bad idea?

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