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Photo Forum / General Photo Topics / General Topics / June 2008

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Black & White Tips???

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gardenlife - 21 Jun 2008 23:51 GMT
Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
Wilson - 22 Jun 2008 00:44 GMT
> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy

It would be helpful if we knew what your plan is up to this point to try
some black & white.  You know....digital or film.  If film do you plan to do
the developing and printing yourself?  If not, do you plan to use a custom
lab or a commercial one hour photo type business?  If digital are you going
to use post processing software such as Photoshop?  Print yourself or send
to a lab?   Shooting indoors or outdoors?  Gardenlife = flowers maybe?

The more information you can provide as to what you hope or plan to do, the
more helpful you'll find the tips to be.
Joel - 22 Jun 2008 00:44 GMT
> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy

    Tip? I would say enjoy it!  or I usually like B&W more than color, but do
90-95% in color.
ray - 22 Jun 2008 01:51 GMT
> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy

Have you considered shooting digital full color and then converting it?
There are more ways to convert than you could imagine - they all give a
different effect.
The Royal Spam - 22 Jun 2008 14:50 GMT
>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>
> Have you considered shooting digital full color and then converting it?
> There are more ways to convert than you could imagine - they all give a
> different effect.

The easiest way to try B&W is to use Ilford XP2, it is a real B&W film but
is processed in C41 chemicals (colour) in any minilab. The quality is
outstanding and so is the latitude.
ray - 22 Jun 2008 14:56 GMT
>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> but is processed in C41 chemicals (colour) in any minilab. The quality
> is outstanding and so is the latitude.

'Ease', is suppose, is relative. To me the easiest would be to shoot full
color digital and use GIMP to try various conversions to B&W - you can get
a LOT of different 'moods' from one photo quite easily that way.
The Royal Spam - 22 Jun 2008 15:02 GMT
>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> color digital and use GIMP to try various conversions to B&W - you can get
> a LOT of different 'moods' from one photo quite easily that way.

It ain't black and white though, different tonal range and resolution.
Chris H - 22 Jun 2008 15:48 GMT
>>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>It ain't black and white though, different tonal range and resolution.

Using the DXO RAW converter you can get the same tonal qualities (and
grain) as a range of films, both positive and negative colour and B&W
including the XPseries.

Signature

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\/\/\/\/\ Chris Hills  Staffs  England     /\/\/\/\/
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

The Royal Spam - 23 Jun 2008 01:05 GMT
>>>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> grain) as a range of films, both positive and negative colour and B&W
> including the XPseries.

I had a look at that, it seems that you can achieve the same result in the
channel mixer and noise filter in Photoshop but it still doesn't look like
black and white film. It looks ok but not in comparison to the genuine
article.
Joel - 23 Jun 2008 02:14 GMT
<snip>
>  I had a look at that, it seems that you can achieve the same result in the
> channel mixer and noise filter in Photoshop but it still doesn't look like
> black and white film. It looks ok but not in comparison to the genuine
> article.

    "Channel Mixer" is one of 1001+ different techniques, and it can look
more/less like B&W film depending on your skill/technique.
Chris H - 23 Jun 2008 06:56 GMT
>>> It ain't black and white though, different tonal range and resolution.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>black and white film. It looks ok but not in comparison to the genuine
>article.

See the add on "film pack" it can completely mimic the film tones and
grain.

Signature

\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
\/\/\/\/\ Chris Hills  Staffs  England     /\/\/\/\/
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

Joel - 22 Jun 2008 16:12 GMT
> >>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
> >>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> It ain't black and white though, different tonal range and resolution.

    Yes and No, it can be B&W, it can be Duotone, it can be grayscale, it can
be mixed etc. depending on your technique.  Same with B&W film (darkroom) it
can be pure B&W or grayscale.

    And I don't think you will like pure B&W.  Also, it can be easier
depending on how well you know the technique/program/tool.
The Royal Spam - 23 Jun 2008 01:01 GMT
>>>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> And I don't think you will like pure B&W.  Also, it can be easier
> depending on how well you know the technique/program/tool.

It is definitely easier to load a film, expose it, hand it over to a lab,
collect your prints, negs (and CD). No computers, no conversions, no sweat.
The downside is the cost of film and processing but that can be weighed up
against the cost of a computer, digital camera, cards, inkjets, inks, papers
etc.
Joel - 23 Jun 2008 02:21 GMT


> >>>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
> >>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> against the cost of a computer, digital camera, cards, inkjets, inks, papers
> etc.

    I guess I may have to agree with you that

1. Using B&W film to capture a B&W image is a way to go.  I don't say better
but at least a way

2. Handing the film to photolab for developing and printing can't be any
easier.  I don't say better but at least no skill required.

    And if you shoot for skill then

1. Just use the computer you are using to type the message to do whatever
you want to do with the image

2. If you don't have digital camera then it's another story

3. If you don't have photo retouching skill then it's another story.

4. If you have all the above, then you too can just hand it to the photolab
to have it printed at photolab.  Of course if you have and want to print
using your inkjet, thermal printer.

    And even B&W doesn't have lot of color to cause color casting, but it
still require shading and still require some post processing skill.
LennyL - 23 Jun 2008 11:35 GMT
>>>>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>against the cost of a computer, digital camera, cards, inkjets, inks, papers
>etc.

and very little if any controll over the end result!
Paul Furman - 22 Jun 2008 16:20 GMT
>>>>> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy
>>>> Have you considered shooting digital full color and then converting it?
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> It ain't black and white though, different tonal range and resolution.

To clarify for the OP... on film, there is an advantage to B&W and there
would be for digital if you used a B&W sensor but that's only available
on specialized scientific equipment so B&W digital ends up losing
information rather than getting an advantage. However digital has the
advantage of being able to apply filters for different effects. Raw
format gives complete freedom to adjust colors & white balance. You can
shoot some cameras in raw or raw plus jpeg in B&W mode and the jpeg
gives you feedback on the B&W appearance while raw lets you do color if
desired or custom conversion.

Signature

Paul Furman
www.edgehill.net
www.baynatives.com

all google groups messages filtered due to spam

Floyd L. Davidson - 23 Jun 2008 01:13 GMT
>To clarify for the OP... on film, there is an advantage to B&W and there
>would be for digital if you used a B&W sensor but that's only available
>on specialized scientific equipment so B&W digital ends up losing
>information rather than getting an advantage.

None of the above is valid.  B&W film is pan-chromatic,
and different films have different color sensitivities.
That is *exactly* the same with B&W digital photography.

And just as is the difference between film and digital
when doing color photography, the significance with B&W
digital is that parameters can be changed after the
exposure is made.

>However digital has the
>advantage of being able to apply filters for different effects. Raw
>format gives complete freedom to adjust colors & white balance. You can
>shoot some cameras in raw or raw plus jpeg in B&W mode and the jpeg
>gives you feedback on the B&W appearance while raw lets you do color if
>desired or custom conversion.

And regardless of that, the RAW data allows all filters
and "film types" to be experimented with after the fact,
in the darkroom.  Wonder what it would have looked like
using Tri-X instead of HP5?  Dial it in.  Want a red
filter?  Dial it in.  Want to use high contrast ortho
film?  Dial it in.  All from a single RAW data file.

Signature

Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska)              floyd@apaflo.com

Paul Furman - 23 Jun 2008 02:57 GMT
>> To clarify for the OP... on film, there is an advantage to B&W and there
>> would be for digital if you used a B&W sensor but that's only available
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> and different films have different color sensitivities.
> That is *exactly* the same with B&W digital photography.

I'm comparing to digital without a bayer rgb sensor.
A lot is lost in that process if your end goal is b&w.

> And just as is the difference between film and digital
> when doing color photography, the significance with B&W
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> filter?  Dial it in.  Want to use high contrast ortho
> film?  Dial it in.  All from a single RAW data file.

Signature

Paul Furman
www.edgehill.net
www.baynatives.com

all google groups messages filtered due to spam

Floyd L. Davidson - 23 Jun 2008 06:01 GMT
>>> To clarify for the OP... on film, there is an advantage to B&W and there
>>> would be for digital if you used a B&W sensor but that's only available
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>I'm comparing to digital without a bayer rgb sensor.
>A lot is lost in that process if your end goal is b&w.

What is lost?

The end result is exactly the same.  You get a pixel,
and it has a brightness level that depends on both the
color and the luminance.  That is the same as happens
with B&W film.

Signature

Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska)              floyd@apaflo.com

Paul Furman - 23 Jun 2008 07:58 GMT
>>>> To clarify for the OP... on film, there is an advantage to B&W and there
>>>> would be for digital if you used a B&W sensor but that's only available
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> What is lost?

Every pixel is filtered to 1/4 the sensitivity: R, G, G or B from the
bayer filter. It doesn't matter much for color and performs better than
one might think for luminance but an unfiltered sensor should do
considerably better. They only exist as expensive scientific equipment &
cheap security cameras though. What might be neat is a small simple B&W
Dx sized P&S for $500 and it would mount any 35mm lens, 8MP.

> The end result is exactly the same.  You get a pixel,
> and it has a brightness level that depends on both the
> color and the luminance.  That is the same as happens
> with B&W film.

Signature

Paul Furman
www.edgehill.net
www.baynatives.com

all google groups messages filtered due to spam

Floyd L. Davidson - 23 Jun 2008 11:18 GMT
>>>>> To clarify for the OP... on film, there is an advantage to B&W and there
>>>>> would be for digital if you used a B&W sensor but that's only available
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>one might think for luminance but an unfiltered sensor should do
>considerably better.

The "unfiltered" sensor has to be filtered in some way
that gives its output different tones for different
colors, exactly the same as film or Bayer/digital does.

Any way you do it, the result is just about exactly the
same.

Signature

Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska)              floyd@apaflo.com

Joel - 23 Jun 2008 15:22 GMT
<snip>
> > None of the above is valid.  B&W film is pan-chromatic,
> > and different films have different color sensitivities.
> > That is *exactly* the same with B&W digital photography.
>
> I'm comparing to digital without a bayer rgb sensor.
> A lot is lost in that process if your end goal is b&w.

    How do you compare B&W film vs Digital when one using chemical while other
using computer and technique?

    I don't know what you gain or lose on either one, but I can tell you that
you that with digital (it's possible with film too but just talk about
digital) you can turn the gray into pure BLACK, or you turn white area (with
some gray channel) into pure BLACK (or Dark <-> Light).

    However, if you compare today B&W printer to the printer used
decades/century ago then there may be some differences.
Floyd L. Davidson - 23 Jun 2008 01:16 GMT
>> 'Ease', is suppose, is relative. To me the easiest would be to shoot full
>> color digital and use GIMP to try various conversions to B&W - you can get
>> a LOT of different 'moods' from one photo quite easily that way.
>
>It ain't black and white though, different tonal range and resolution.

It *is* black and white.  The resolution does not
change.  Of course the tonal range does change...  in
whichever way you choose to change it.  That is exactly
the same as picking which B&W film to use...

Signature

Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska)              floyd@apaflo.com

Vance - 22 Jun 2008 03:37 GMT
> Im going to try to do some black & whites, any tips?   Thanks, Judy

When you are composing, pay attention to the tonalities and their
masses.  An old trick is to squint, which reduces or eliminates the
details.

If you are doing film, you will want to use filters to help in
differentiating colors that will reproduce very similarly as gray
tones, though they look very different in color.  An example is clouds
and sky.  Wrong time of day and the clouds will barely be
distinguishable.  They certainly won't render anything like what you
actually saw.  Contrast is the key to B&W; it provides the details.
Also, textures are somewhat more important.

B&W with film takes a very different type of pre-visualization than
color does.  With digital, you can post-visualize (muck about with
stuff until you get what you want, or something you like).  A good tip
(for any type of photography) is to look at what others have done that
appeals to you and work backwards to your own shot.

Tip #1:  Get your exposure right.
Tip #2:  Know more (or less) what the image should look like before
you press the shutter release.
Tip #3:  If they need heavy photoshop work and the equipment is
capable of doing the job without it, see tips # & #2.

Vance
 
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