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Photo Forum / General Photo Topics / General Topics / May 2008Shooting BW Film
I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have some Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light meter, so if anyone can offer tips/advice/links on getting close to decent exposure without a lightmeter I'd be glad to hear (read!) it. I've shot one roll of colour film so far, using the exposure table on the side of the box and got decent results outside.. Is it worthwhile using a dslr as a light meter and setting the zorki off that? Thanks in advance, Tony B > I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have > some Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Is it worthwhile using a dslr as a light meter and setting the zorki off > that? Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the camera? They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the vintage low- tech experience. :-) > Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the camera? > They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the vintage low- > tech experience. I didn't realise they were so cheap.. do they last? Or need calibration or anything? Sorry to be so ignorant but hey, I'm a child of the digital age.. :-) T >> Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the camera? >> They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the vintage low- [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > anything? Sorry to be so ignorant but hey, I'm a child of the digital > age.. :-) Almost certainly. But, again almost certainly, there'll be an old camera shop near you that will do it for you for a couple of quid. Well, there is one round here...  SignatureWilliam Black I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Barbeques on fire by the chalets past the castle headland I watched the gift shops glitter in the darkness off the Newborough gate All these moments will be lost in time, like icecream on the beach Time for tea. > > Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the camera? > > They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the vintage low- [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > T It can be pretty cheap and can be pretty expensive, you can get an used digital light meter for around more/less $100 (older generator for $20-30 or so), or you can get a better model for around $200-400 Well, I saw someone sell 20-30 years old light meter so I guess it would last for many years. > > Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the camera? > > They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the vintage low- [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > or anything? Sorry to be so ignorant but hey, I'm a child of the digital > age.. :-) I have several, a Leningrad (which arrived with the needle rattling around inside but was easily fixed) a Sekonic and an Ikophot. These are all selenium meters, so don't require batteries but the selenium cells supposedly deteriorate - all of mine seem to be fine, and accurate to better than half a stop (checked against some of my SLRs with silicon meters) which is fine for normal use. They each cost less than a fiver including delivery; some types like Weston, Gossen, Avo tend to fetch a bit more. Bear in mind that the diffuser for incident light measurement is often a separate accessory (usually clipped inside the case) and may not be included when you buy an old meter, but if you never want to measure incident light you'll not miss it. Also it's handy if the meter comes with a lanyard. >> > Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the >> > camera? They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > including delivery; some types like Weston, Gossen, Avo tend to fetch a > bit more. Speaking of old and of Gossen, perhaps I should invite some museum bids on this. :) http://blinkynet.net/stuff/pilot.jpg > Bear in mind that the diffuser for incident light measurement > is often a separate accessory (usually clipped inside the case) and may > not be included when you buy an old meter, but if you never want to > measure incident light you'll not miss it. Also it's handy if the meter > comes with a lanyard. This one uses a sliding translucent curtain. The little beige titty on the left is part of the end of the curtain, which slides around the corner and across the light port. SignatureBlinky Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org Blinky: http://blinkynet.net >>> > Why not get something like a Leningrad 4 meter to complement the >>> > camera? They're available cheaply on eBay, and help complete the [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > the left is part of the end of the curtain, which slides around the > corner and across the light port. I had one just like it back in the 70s. Worked great. Lost it and all my camera gear and my albums (60s-70s) and the audio gear in a fire. The darkroom too. In article <pan.2008.04.23.22.01.51.792685@thurston.blinkynet.net>, Blinky the Shark no.spam@box.invalid says... > Speaking of old and of Gossen, perhaps I should invite some museum bids on > this. :) > > http://blinkynet.net/stuff/pilot.jpg That was called a Sixtino over here. It's so compact you could get a clip to mount it on a camera's accessory shoe. > This one uses a sliding translucent curtain. The little beige titty on > the left is part of the end of the curtain, which slides around the > corner and across the light port. A friend in the 70s had one of the "roll top desk" Gossens (a Sixtry, I think) that was a thing of wonder to me. But he had all the best gear - he also had an Olympus Trip 35, while I only had an Ilford Sportsman. :-) > In article <pan.2008.04.23.22.01.51.792685@thurston.blinkynet.net>, Blinky > the Shark [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > That was called a Sixtino over here. It's so compact you could get a clip > to mount it on a camera's accessory shoe. I don't remember those (but it's been a long time) but I can see that functionality for it. Out of the case, it measures about 2 1/4" long by about 1 7/8" wide by 1 1/8" thick (convert as needed). This particular one is attached to its case by a small bolt with a large flush head; all one would need would be a shoe with the right sized bolt on top. http://blinkynet.net/stuff/pilot2.jpg But I'm thinking that those two other holes, on either side of the bolt hole, might be for that clip of which you speak. SignatureBlinky Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org Blinky: http://blinkynet.net In article <pan.2008.04.24.06.02.13.271144@thurston.blinkynet.net>, Blinky the Shark no.spam@box.invalid says... > This particular one is attached to its case by a small bolt with a > large flush head; all one would need would be a shoe with the right [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > But I'm thinking that those two other holes, on either side of the bolt > hole, might be for that clip of which you speak. It's just a bit of aluminium extrusion that attaches by the central screw and locates in the recess around it. I suspect that yours has been used in this way, judging by the damage in that area. A manual is available at butkus.org. > In article <pan.2008.04.24.06.02.13.271144@thurston.blinkynet.net>, Blinky > the Shark [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > It's just a bit of aluminium extrusion that attaches by the central screw > and locates in the recess around it. I suspect that yours has been used Ah! That makes sense. > in this way, judging by the damage in that area. A manual is available > at butkus.org. I thought I got it new. I wondered about that stuff around the center (threaded) hole. Looks lilke glue residue. But I've never glued anything there (or screwed anything there but the case fastener). Hmmmmm. SignatureBlinky Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org Blinky: http://blinkynet.net >I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have some >Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light meter, [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Thanks in advance, FP-4 is very forgiving. So are the Russian rangefinders. Look at the bit of paper that came with the FP-4. It'll tell you roughly what exposure/shutter speed to set without a meter. Have a go. Well, that or buy an old Russian meter off EBay for a fiver... SignatureWilliam Black I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Barbeques on fire by the chalets past the castle headland I watched the gift shops glitter in the darkness off the Newborough gate All these moments will be lost in time, like icecream on the beach Time for tea. >I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have some >Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light meter, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Tony B Use the Sunny 16 rule or get a cheapo used photocell light meter, but whatever you do don't carry your DSLR around as your light meter. That would be wrong. > Use the Sunny 16 rule oh, yeah.. the Sunny 16 rule, of course... oops. I will google immeditely :-) > don't carry your DSLR around as your light meter. That > would be wrong. indeed. I think I may also try a pop at guessing/learning to do it myself: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/train_your_brai nto_guess_.html which looks kind of fun! thanks for the advice, T >> Use the Sunny 16 rule > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > T You've found the right path. Hopefully it also will lead to a community college or a lab where you can develop and print your film. Or maybe set up a home darkroom. A most satisfying endeavor. > I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have > some Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Tony B Get a cheap P&S digital camera and use it as light meter. Just set the mode to something like "P" set the ISO press the shutter 1/2 down to read the reading. Of course you can use TV and AV mode too. > Get a cheap P&S digital camera and use it as light meter. top answer, in fact I have just the thing right now; a Canon S50 that's full of dust and is not worth the repair bill - but the metering works, hmm... good call! Ta very much. T Tony B schrieb: >> Get a cheap P&S digital camera and use it as light meter. > > top answer, in fact I have just the thing right now; a Canon S50 that's > full of dust and is not worth the repair bill - but the metering works, > hmm... good call! Ta very much. That's not what you want when shooting b/w-film with any old camera. Andreas SignatureFotos unter http://www.gugau-foto.de/ Special unter http://www.hoellenmusik.de/ Schottland unter http://www.whisky-guide.de/ >>> Get a cheap P&S digital camera and use it as light meter. > That's not what you want when shooting b/w-film with any old camera. no, ok maybe not; it could help me learn to guess the exposures accurately though. Perhaps.. anyway I've got a punt on an old Russian meter on ebay, may as well go for the full-on retro experience... T >>>> Get a cheap P&S digital camera and use it as light meter. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >accurately though. Perhaps.. anyway I've got a punt on an old Russian >meter on ebay, may as well go for the full-on retro experience... I'm also considering buying an older, used, light meter on eBay. Where would you get it checked and calibrated, though? The camera stores in this area are retailers of new stuff only. One I called doesn't even stock new light meters. SignatureTony Cooper - Orlando, Florida >>>>> Get a cheap P&S digital camera and use it as light meter. >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > The camera stores in this area are retailers of new stuff only. One I > called doesn't even stock new light meters. Some older meters have a calibration screw. Your could compare the meter to other photographers' meters. If it is off, and it's off consistently, just compensate and live with it-- for example if it reads one stop low consistently, set the film speed down one stop. There are still camera repair shops extant that work on older mechanical equipment. >I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have some >Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light meter, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Tony B For outdoor shooting, there's the "Sunny-16" rule. Set the shutter speed equal to the film speed (1/125). For bright sun, use f/16. Party cloudy or hazy use f/11. Open shade use f/8. Deep shade use f/5.6. > I have an old Russian rangefinder to play with (a Zorki 4K) and have > some Ilford FP4 Plus 125 film to use. One thing I don't have is a light [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Tony B Hi, I have one too but have never shot with it. Would love to see results.... I would use the sunny F/16 rule as well... good shooting matthew pace |
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