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Photo Forum / General Photo Topics / UK Photography / March 2007

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How to generate "streaks" in night photography?

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bsharma - 16 Mar 2007 05:54 GMT
Hi everyone,

 I've come across many beautiful pictures of roads/flyovers captured
at night, which show colorful streaks of the head/tail lamps of
vehicles running on them. Surely, these are results of special trick-
photography and not mere digital effects on a computer.

 Could you please elaborate on what camera is required for capturing
such images, and what care is to be taken. I hope a small aperture and
long exposure would help, but are there issues with the type of film/
ccd? Please comment.

Best regards
BS
Richard Polhill - 16 Mar 2007 08:49 GMT
> Hi everyone,

>   I've come across many beautiful pictures of roads/flyovers captured
> at night, which show colorful streaks of the head/tail lamps of
> vehicles running on them. Surely, these are results of special trick-
> photography and not mere digital effects on a computer.

>   Could you please elaborate on what camera is required for capturing
> such images, and what care is to be taken. I hope a small aperture and
> long exposure would help, but are there issues with the type of film/
> ccd? Please comment.

> Best regards
> BS

Any camera that is capable of relatively long exposures - multiples of seconds
up to minutes. Any SLR will do, but many compacts have enough control to
achieve the longer exposure time required. If you have shutter-priority
exposure or manual exposure you'll be well away.

Using digital cameras for long exposures can result in excessive noise, but in
practise it shouldn't be a problem over a 30s exposure.

Most films suffer reciprocity failure at long exposures which means that the
usual +1 stop of exposure time no longer compensates for -1 stop of the
aperture. You may have to compensate by +1 or +2 stops. The film manufacturers
do publish the information, but as a rule of thumb, for 5 - 30s try two
exposures at +1 stop and +2 stops.

You WILL need a tripod.

Rich
bsharma - 16 Mar 2007 09:34 GMT
Thanks Richard.
 My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
time. Will that be enough?

I guess there should be some softwares which might help generate that
effect. But I wanted to see how close can the softwares get to real
photography.

Regards
BS
Richard Polhill - 16 Mar 2007 09:48 GMT
> Thanks Richard.
>   My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
> time. Will that be enough?

Try it. On a fast road with lots of traffic it might be. Just work out how far
cars are travelling in 10s. At 50MPH, 10s = 534feet: probably fine.

> I guess there should be some softwares which might help generate that
> effect. But I wanted to see how close can the softwares get to real
> photography.

Not very.
Mark Dunn - 16 Mar 2007 10:10 GMT
For a cheap digicam the limiting factor might be the aperture. They don't
stop down very far so you can't use a very long shutter speed.
> > Thanks Richard.
> >   My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Not very.
OG - 17 Mar 2007 13:41 GMT
<top posting corrected>
>> > Thanks Richard.
>> >   My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> For a cheap digicam the limiting factor might be the aperture. They don't
> stop down very far so you can't use a very long shutter speed.

A neutral density filter would help here (like shooting through a grey
sunglasses lens).
Bandicoot - 17 Mar 2007 01:08 GMT
> Thanks Richard.
>   My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
> time. Will that be enough?

Depends how far the vehicles move in ten seconds.  If you want them merging
into continuous streaks of light, ten seconds will be plenty for a busy
motorway shot from a bridge - lot of vehicles, moving fast, usually (too)
close together - but not enough if vehicles are slow/ cross a small part of
the frame/ are far apart/ infrequent, etc.

> I guess there should be some softwares which might help generate
> that effect. But I wanted to see how close can the softwares get to
> real photography.

As usual, not very.  In this case, you could fake it, but it would look
fake, unless you put a great deal of work in.  Less effort to do it 'for
real'.

Peter
OG - 17 Mar 2007 13:44 GMT
> Thanks Richard.
>  My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> effect. But I wanted to see how close can the softwares get to real
> photography.

If the camera has burst mode can you try to stack several images, you may
get a 'punctuated' trail though. - worth experimenting with!
Richard Polhill - 19 Mar 2007 21:57 GMT
>>Thanks Richard.
>> My (friend's) camera wouldn't support more than 10 sec exposure
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> If the camera has burst mode can you try to stack several images, you may
> get a 'punctuated' trail though. - worth experimenting with!

That wouldn't be the same effect at all, but it sounds worth a try.
Might be quite an interesting effect.
Tony Polson - 16 Mar 2007 09:37 GMT
>Hi everyone,
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>long exposure would help, but are there issues with the type of film/
>ccd? Please comment.

You can achieve these results with almost any camera that has a B
setting on the shutter, or can select long shutter speeds.  You need
to expose for whole seconds - the more seconds the better, depending
on what effect you want to create.

Above all, you need a sturdy tripod to keep the camera absolutely
still.  You will also need a cable release to fire the shutter without
jerking the camera.

A digital camera would be best so you can see the results as you go,
learn from them and make adjustments to your technique.  You will need
a camera that is capable of having the exposure (aperture and shutter
speed) selected manually.

It is all possible with film but the lack of instant feedback makes it
far more difficult than with digital.
Alan Clifford - 17 Mar 2007 13:23 GMT
b> Hi everyone,
b>
b>   I've come across many beautiful pictures of roads/flyovers captured
b> at night, which show colorful streaks of the head/tail lamps of
b> vehicles running on them. Surely, these are results of special trick-
b> photography and not mere digital effects on a computer.
b>
b>   Could you please elaborate on what camera is required for capturing
b> such images, and what care is to be taken. I hope a small aperture and
b> long exposure would help, but are there issues with the type of film/
b> ccd? Please comment.
b>

There is going to be a tradeoff between length of streak and exposure of
background.  This one for example (a snapshot through a dirty window!) is
at 4 seconds and at about the largest aperture (smallest f number), f 3.2,
for the camera, at iso 100.
   
http://www.clifford.ac/photo/2005/China.October/Beijing/tn/pb042377.jpg.index.html

The background is not exposed enough.  A longer exposure time would give
longer streaks. I could have upped the iso but that would have more grain.

There is another variable.  This one is taken from the same spot but at
the telephoto end of the zoom. 2 seconds, f3.5, iso 100.  Shorter exposure
because more of the photgraph is light.

http://www.clifford.ac/photo/2005/China.October/Beijing/tn/pb042379.jpg.index.html

The answer I think, is to take some time to experiment with the three
variables of exposure time, iso and aperture, and take lots of photographs
of the scene you are trying to capture. Not what I did - quick snapshots
through a dirty window on automatic mode.

Signature

Alan

( If replying by mail, please note that all "sardines" are canned.
 However, unless this a very old message, a "tuna" will swim right
 through. )

Alan Clifford - 17 Mar 2007 13:33 GMT
b> Hi everyone,
b>
b>   I've come across many beautiful pictures of roads/flyovers captured
b> at night, which show colorful streaks of the head/tail lamps of
b> vehicles running on them. Surely, these are results of special trick-
b> photography and not mere digital effects on a computer.
b>

Another effect you might find interesting in, in regard to streaks, is the
use of first or second curtain slow synch flash.  Have a look here:  
http://www.megapixel.net/html/articles/article-fmodes.php

Signature

Alan

( If replying by mail, please note that all "sardines" are canned.
 However, unless this a very old message, a "tuna" will swim right
 through. )

Mark Dunn - 17 Mar 2007 19:37 GMT
Convince me those middle 2 shots aren't composites.

> b> Hi everyone,
> b>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> use of first or second curtain slow synch flash.  Have a look here:
> http://www.megapixel.net/html/articles/article-fmodes.php
Mark Dunn - 17 Mar 2007 19:38 GMT
Oh, right, you admitted it. And your point is?...

> b> Hi everyone,
> b>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> use of first or second curtain slow synch flash.  Have a look here:
> http://www.megapixel.net/html/articles/article-fmodes.php
William Hathaway - 19 Mar 2007 05:21 GMT
If your friends has a Bulb mode, B on the timing.  You many be able to use a
cable release on an older camera, or a Electronic release on a newer camera
to manually open the shutter for any length of time.

For an exposure of 30 seconds you can be accurate enough timing the exposure
with your watch or even by counting (one one thousand, two one thousand, etc).

Have a good day.

William
 
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