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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / Point & Shoot Cameras / February 2010Olympus camera overexposes
Olympus FE-20 p&s digicam. Holding the camera up and using the display as the viewfinder, the exposure looks normal. Pressing the shutter button results in an overexposed photo. It doesn't matter if the flash is on or off; the resulting photo shown on the LCD display is always overexposed. Changing the exposure setting does have a little effect on the exposure. I'm a bit confused; if the "before the shot" view in the display is accurate, why would the exposed photo be different? What might be the cause? Thanks, Dave > Olympus FE-20 p&s digicam. > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Thanks, > Dave What do the negatives look like? > Olympus FE-20 p&s digicam. > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Thanks, > Dave Are the pictures pale-looking even when you upload them to a computer? Has the camera previously produced acceptable pictures? Is thebattery OK? Could be a fault in the exposure meter or in the 'firmware'.  Signature-- ^^^^^^^^^^ -- Whiskers -- ~~~~~~~~~~ Olympus FE-20 - - - > Are the pictures pale-looking even when you upload them to a computer? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Could be a fault in the exposure meter or in the 'firmware'. Wouldn't these faults be evident in the "viewfinder" mode (before taking the exposure)? When I aim the camera at light and dark subjects the camera compensates by "irising" up and down to give what looks to be a properly-exposed "preview" display. Only when the image is captured is it overexposed. Images downloaded and viewed on the computer are overexposed, identical to when viewed on the camera's display. This is a new-to-me camera (used) so I don't know the history. Battery icon is green (fully charged). It doesn't matter whether flash is on or off. Ideas? > Wouldn't these faults be evident in the "viewfinder" mode (before > taking the exposure)? When I aim the camera at light and dark > subjects the camera compensates by "irising" up and down to > give what looks to be a properly-exposed "preview" display. > Only when the image is captured is it overexposed. > Images downloaded and viewed on the computer are overexposed, > identical to when viewed on the camera's display. This isn't what I remember you saying. Regardless... If the picture is consistently misexposed, then the exposure-compensation control (assuming the camera has one) should fix the problem. If it doesn't, then the camera needs repair or replacement. As I said, this discrepancy is not uncommon. > If the picture is consistently misexposed, then the exposure-compensation > control (assuming the camera has one) should fix the problem. Compensation doesn't fix the problem, it fixes the symptom. The problem remains. The compensation range on this camera is +/- 2 stops and this is not enough. > If it doesn't, then the camera needs repair or replacement. I'm asking questions to find out what the cause is. Repair options to be considered after this is determined. Thanks. >> If the picture is consistently misexposed, then the exposure-compensation >> control (assuming the camera has one) should fix the problem. > Compensation doesn't fix the problem, it fixes the symptom. The problem > remains. > The compensation range on this camera is +/- 2 stops and this is not enough. >> If it doesn't, then the camera needs repair or replacement. > I'm asking questions to find out what the cause is. Repair options to be > considered after this is determined. If +/- 2 stops isn't enough to compensate, then the camera is either grossly misdesigned, or it's defective. The "cause" is immaterial, as a properly designed and operating camera should not show this problem (or symptom, as you prefer). On Jan 21, 2:48 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote: > >> If the picture is consistently misexposed, then the exposure-compensation > >> control (assuming the camera has one) should fix the problem. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > designed and operating camera should not show this problem (or symptom, as > you prefer). Does the camera have an exposure setting in addition to the +/- two F- stops? Do you have the instruction manual?? > Does the camera have an exposure setting in addition to the +/- two F- > stops? No. > Do you have the instruction manual?? Yes. > > Does the camera have an exposure setting in addition to the +/- two F- > > stops? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Yes. Have you tried removing the battery for a couple of days and then basiclly starting from scratch as far as settting up all the options,? > Have you tried removing the battery for a couple of days and then > basiclly starting from scratch as far as settting up all the options,? Yes. Thanks. > Olympus FE-20 > - - - [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Wouldn't these faults be evident in the "viewfinder" mode (before taking the > exposure)? Not necessarily. In 'viewfinder' mode one set of 'firmware' routines operates to put an image on the screen; in 'picture taking mode' a different set of routines determines the 'exposure' settings and then encodes the image for 'saving' to memory, probably doing some 'processing' and then compressing the data to a JPEG file, for point-and-shoot cameras. Then yet another set of routines comes into play when you look at the saved image. Any of those firmware routines can become corrupted, for example by physical damage to the camera or exposure to electro-magnetic radiation that's powerful enough to scramble the bits and bytes stored in the micro-chips. > When I aim the camera at light and dark subjects the camera > compensates by "irising" up and down to give what looks to be a > properly-exposed "preview" display. Only when the image is captured is it > overexposed. OK, so the firmware that processes compresses and saves the image, may be faulty; or the firmware that calculates the exposure; or the hardware exposure meter (if there is one, as such). > Images downloaded and viewed on the computer are overexposed, identical to > when viewed on the camera's display. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Ideas? You've got a duff one. A camera shop may be willing to 'look at it', but don't hold your breath. Signature-- ^^^^^^^^^^ -- Whiskers -- ~~~~~~~~~~ > Any of those firmware routines can become corrupted, > for example by physical damage to the camera or exposure > to electro-magnetic radiation that's powerful enough to > scramble the bits and bytes stored in the micro-chips. It doesn't work that way. And if it did, the firmware would likely fail altogether. > Olympus FE-20 > - - - [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Ideas? Samples, including exif, please? In other words please post some of the worst examples, unedited except for resizing, and make sure whatever program you use leaves the exif details intact. The Oly FE20 has a pretty ordinary sensor, with a limited dynamic range. It is probably set to slightly overexpose out of the box, to give the bright results that ma and pa kettle expect. And at this stage we don't even know if your monitor is correctly adjusted.. I'd really like to see the images to ensure it isn't a natural result of the type of images you are taking.. > Olympus FE-20 p&s digicam. > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > I'm a bit confused; if the "before the shot" view in the display is > accurate, why would the exposed photo be different? What makes you think that it is accurate? Cameras adjust the viewfinder image to make things easier for the photographer - in the dark they make show the preview as lighter to make it easier to shoot and in a sunlingt darken it. So, cameras do lie before the shoot... But note that you should not trust the "after"-image either as it will be different to what the photo will look on your computer. Also, brightness of most LCD's can be adjusted. Check what the photos look on your computer, adjust the LCD and then you'll know what is accurate and what not. And if your camera can display a histogramm, try using that to judge the photograph's brightness. > What makes you think that it is accurate? It's a relative term. The LCD viewfinder looks fairly normal. The recorded image is totally washed out. > And if your camera can display a histogramm, try using that to judge the > photograph's brightness. Not an option on this camera. > Holding the camera up and using the display as the viewfinder, the exposure > looks normal. Pressing the shutter button results in an overexposed photo. > Thanks, > Dave ************************************************************ My guess is this is an adjustment between the display and the shutter. The light sensor is seeing a certain amount of light and is correctly adjusting your viewfinder. Then the sensor is telling the shutter there isn't much light out there. So the shutter stays open longer (or the aperature is adjusted wider) and your pictures are too bright. No doubt there is a potentiometer on the bottom of the camera that needs adjusting. Probably a cheap repair. Ric in Wisconsin. |
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