I wasn't actually pontificating on how good i and others are - I was instead
lamenting at how bad some of the "i've got an expensive camera, now I'm a
professional photographer" crowd are. When you print 100 wedding photos and
not one of them is in focus, or the wedding dress is solid blown white
because, because... hell I don't know why it's overexposed - Full Auto isn't
that bad on any camera I've used. Or depth of field is so small that half
the group in the group shot are out of focus, or depth of field is so long
that the close up of the brides face shows all the crap in the background in
clear focus. Group shots that are so noisy you can't make out details of
anyones face, because the shot was clearly done at a very high ISO, despite
being outdoors where ISO 100 would have still given a decent shutter speed
at small aperture. Group shots where everyone is squinting because they are
all staring into the sun. You get the idea. These are simple mistakes that
any photographer can make, but that shouldn't be made by someone asking a
premium amount for their services - especially one with the benefit of
instant digital preview.

But, since you asked about tips (I did give a tip in my other post) I'll add
a couple more. Firstly to recap - the tip I gave in my original post was to
study, then take lots of shots. This is the best way of learning for
anyone - take pictures in varying situations, and then analyze what you did
wrong and what you did right. Digital makes this process easy with extremely
low cost, and exif info to tell you what you did with every shot.
Experiment with shutter speed and aperture, learn how the two interact.
Learn how depth of field interacts with aperture. Learn how to make the best
compromise between the depth of field you would like to achieve, and the
shutter speed you can use. Learn the compromise between grain/noise and film
speed.  This is all best learnt by experimentation - no-one in this group
can say "shoot this shot at 1/60sec at F5.6 with ISO 800".
Some more specific advice:
Experiment with your gear to find your own personal limits with it - for
example some people can hand-hold at a lot lower shutter speeds than other
people. You may find you have the steady hands to take a sharp photo at
1/30sec with an 80mm lens or you might be a shaker who needs 1/200 sec with
the same lens. You will also find that the way you stand will affect how low
your shutter speed can go when handholding and still give a sharp image - my
personal favorite is to crouch with my right elbow resting on my right knee.
Before shooting in a specific environment, whenever possible go ahead to
check out lighting etc. Eg in some churches you aren't allowed to use flash
or tripod - if lighting is too poor to handhold, you are either going to
have to skip over those shots or use alternative camera supports, such as
the back of a pew or a window frame. Or alternatively you could use the fact
that you are not going to be able to take a sharp photo to your advantage
and use deliberate and creative blur techniques such as zooming. You may
find that to do certain shots, you need to expand on your equipment, by
purchasing items such as flashguns, maybe a monopod, faster lenses,  IS
lenses etc.  It is better to be forewarned though than to suddenly find
yourself in a church trying to hand-hold half-second exposures.
Be aware that even with a tripod, if you require long exposures, your
subjects are likely to move thus also creating blur. Timing is of the
essence here - If you need to make a half-second exposure, you aren't going
to get a sharp shot of the bride walking down the aisle, but if she pauses
you've got your chance. Of course you can also use this to your advantage
and take shots that convey a sense of motion. For example, one of the most
effective "signing of the registry" shots i've seen (and I wish I could
claim credit for taking the photo), was one where the groom's hand was a
blur over the signature. The photographer said the lighting in the room was
very dull, there was a strict no flash rule, and he was stuck to about 2sec
exposure with 800ISO film and his fastest lens. He turned what would have
otherwise been a disastrous situation for photography into a very effective
photo. The end result looked far better than if he had have frozen the
moment with a flashgun.
It's all about knowing what you can and can't achieve, and then using that
to achieve a satisfactory result.