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Photo Forum / Photo Technique / People Photography / August 2005

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Creative lighting for B&W portraits.

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Keith Tapscott - 18 Jul 2005 20:10 GMT
Does anyone have any hints or tips for taking portraits using just one or
two flash/strobe lights with either softboxes or umbrellas that help to give
the subject a three dimensional look?
Sorry for the bad description, but that Hollywood star  look or Rembrandt
type of lighting, I only have two lights.
Thanks.
Paco Rosso - 19 Jul 2005 01:02 GMT
Well, if you can read spanish:

http://pacorosso.fotopopular.com/apuntes/af2_iluminacionderetratoenestudio.pdf

Keith Tapscott a couché sur son écran :
> Does anyone have any hints or tips for taking portraits using just one or two
> flash/strobe lights with either softboxes or umbrellas that help to give the
> subject a three dimensional look?
> Sorry for the bad description, but that Hollywood star  look or Rembrandt
> type of lighting, I only have two lights.
> Thanks.

Signature

/*--------------------------------------*/
Francisco Bernal Rosso
Luz-Color-Fotografía
Webpage at:
http://pacorosso.blogspot.com
http://pacorosso.fotopopular.com
http://www.geocities.com/pacorosso
http://www.fotoforum.net/socios/b/b_f/fotos.htm
http://www.michelle7.com/contributors/r/paco_rosso.htm

stefan patric - 20 Jul 2005 06:31 GMT
> Does anyone have any hints or tips for taking portraits using just one or
> two flash/strobe lights with either softboxes or umbrellas that help to
> give the subject a three dimensional look? Sorry for the bad description,
> but that Hollywood star  look or Rembrandt type of lighting, I only have
> two lights. Thanks.

You have more than enough lights to do what you want to do.  The simplest
lighting most times is the best.

Go to the bookstore and buy a book or books on glamour and/or theatrical
-- NOT "classic" -- portrait lighting techniques. Study it or them
thoroughly, then go to the library, the photo-section, and check out
all the "picture" books by famous portratists like Karsh, Hurrell, etc.,
who did all their work in the b&w in the 30s, 40s and 50s. Study the
lighting and figure out how they lit each shot.  Duplicate or adapt it.

Stefan
Lloyd Erlick - 20 Jul 2005 13:55 GMT
...
check out
>all the "picture" books by famous portratists like Karsh, Hurrell, etc.,
>who did all their work in the b&w in the 30s, 40s and 50s. Study the
>lighting and figure out how they lit each shot.  Duplicate or adapt it.
>
>Stefan

July 20, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

The work of the masters is probably the best
place to study portrait lighting. But don't
copy them slavishly. Spend some time looking
at them with skepticism. Analyze aspects of
lighting you do not like.

For example, in the work of Karsh (whose work
I love and admire overall), in the eyes of
many subjects one finds a tiny, hard,
specular highlight placed almost dead center.
I find this extremely irritating. I find it
alienating in the sense it is a blockage from
perceiving the character of the subject.

Also in the case of Karsh -- you have a
perfect opportunity to study how lighting
(and posing) can ennoble a subject. My most
severe criticism of Karsh is that he often
'grandiose-ified' his subject. I sometimes
feel I'm seeing Karsh's subjects looking
better than their best. In the present
context of studying the work of the masters,
Karsh's work is valuable almost beyond
compare. But he is also an example of how
technique can be used to overwhelm a subject.
The famous Churchill done in Ottawa during
the war is a dynamite propaganda picture. I
prefer to feel I know the subject
accurately/honestly/'in reality' after I've
seen a portrait. I feel quite the opposite
with a lot of Karsh portraits. I have no
doubt he was aware of all this, and employed
his techniques to cause it.

The masters can also teach us a lot of things
not to do.

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

Keith Tapscott - 20 Jul 2005 20:18 GMT
Thanks Lloyd and Stefan,
For B&W portraits, I find lighting that comes from the side of the subject
at around 30 to 45 degrees seems to look the most pleasing, I like the way
the light graduates across the subject if you know what I mean. My apologies
for my poor descriptions. One of my favourite photos is of my young niece
who I photographed looking out of the bay window at her home using natural
light, I simply used a collapsible reflector to fill in the shadow side.
It has been suggested to me, to buy a softbox of approximately 1.0x1.5
metres to get a similar soft window light effect when using a studio flash
type unit.
I know that you take a lot of portraits yourself Lloyd, do you have a
favourite lighting set?
I also like some of the images of Karsh and Hurrell`s movie star portraits.
Although technique is important, I think what you are saying is that the
photo should also capture some thing of the subjects personality and not
become just a record shot.
Any more suggestion will be welcomed.

> ...
> check out
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
> net: www.heylloyd.com
> ________________________________
Paco Rosso - 20 Jul 2005 22:36 GMT
Mi prefered set is: one (filling) softlight in front of the model, with
the light coming almost from the camera. A second light (main) at one
side of the model, almost a 90 degrees from de fill light.
Mi second preferred is to put two softlights one in front of the other
with the model inside both. The camera is away from the two lights.
This give you a strange central shadow if the model is beetween the
lights. But you can control de tones with the exact position of the
model between the ligths (stepping into the illuminated space produced
by both softboxes) AND with the different setting of the power of the
lights.

Signature

/*--------------------------------------*/
Francisco Bernal Rosso
Luz-Color-Fotografía
Webpage at:
http://pacorosso.blogspot.com
http://pacorosso.fotopopular.com
http://www.geocities.com/pacorosso
http://www.fotoforum.net/socios/b/b_f/fotos.htm
http://www.michelle7.com/contributors/r/paco_rosso.htm

Lloyd Erlick - 21 Jul 2005 16:26 GMT
>do you have a
>favourite lighting set?

July 21, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

I use daylight, usually from a window. As you
say, sidelighting, from 30-45 degrees.
Sometimes I place a reflector on the shadow
side.

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

Marvin - 21 Jul 2005 16:57 GMT
I have an overwhelming need to share this with you all. Its about what
I hate most about newsgroups . . . . control freaks like netnannies
and net cops and here is why.

They are  like when a little bit of shite gets stuck just inside yer
rectum not far enough down that you can squeeze it either in or out.
It just lies there, you feel it but can do nought about it. It just
sits there and irritates the hell out of you. The only effect is the
production of irritation nothing else. That is really what they are
like. They achieve nothing else. The trolls are still there!!

Shite in yer rectum will eventually be resolved. Netnannies and
netcops are always there. The name and individual may change but there
is always some sh.t baiting and upsetting harmless trolls. The effect
is to give the troll a mission in life. Look at the uk.local hierarchy
at the moment, yorkshire, birmingham and essx in particular. Ruined
for the average poster. The majority of groups are empty, except for
troll droppings, spam and the odd genuine post!!!

What amazes me is that some of the netnannies not only boast about
reporting contributors to their ISP but attempt to get other people
to do the same. This gives the troll an extra boast of "adrenaline".
Its all beyond me!

Maybe I am too sensitive a guy.

Thanks for your interest.
dadiOH - 24 Jul 2005 18:03 GMT
> Does anyone have any hints or tips for taking portraits using just
> one or two flash/strobe lights with either softboxes or umbrellas
> that help to give the subject a three dimensional look?
> Sorry for the bad description, but that Hollywood star  look or
> Rembrandt type of lighting, I only have two lights.

A few comments...
______________

Light use falls into one of four general catagories...

1. Main light - used to create shadow thereby shape.

2. Fill - to lighten as desired/necessary the shadows from #1.

3. Accent - to augment #1 by creating highlights/texture.

4. Background - to separately light an area other than the subject
________________

If you have two lights, you actually have at least four...reflectors
and/or mirrors can be used.  Scrims are useful too to selectively block
light from an area.  The whole purpose of light is to shape and direct
attention.
_________________

Don't limit yourself to using just umbrellas/softboxes.  Most of the
"Hollywood star look or Rembrandt  type of lighting" photos were made
with "hard" reflectors.  Even spots.  Soft light is easy and can be
effective but it is also forgiving...you'll learn more about light and
learn it more quickly by using hard (non diffuse) light.
__________________

Photographers tend to be far too obsessed with lighting and posing in
portraiture at the expense of the subjects personality.  Use lighting to
accent personality (or a facet of it) and/or to create a feeling (in a
viewer) appropriate to the subject.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Lloyd Erlick - 31 Jul 2005 16:38 GMT
>Photographers tend to be far too obsessed with lighting and posing in
>portraiture at the expense of the subjects personality.  Use lighting to
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>--
>dadiOH

July 31, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

This is very true!

I sometimes call my "style" real portraiture.
I'm interested in the character of the person
foremost, and lighting, composition, all that
stuff, are secondary. A true portrait can
survive a bit of soft focus or motion blur or
off-kilter composition.

We're used to it in movies. Plenty of movies
are technically superlative, great special
effects, immaculate camera work, fantastic
stunts, but empty otherwise. It's as if the
audience actually does not want acting and
writing. Many portraits (I'm tempted to call
them "portraits") are similarly devoid of
real content but have plenty of eye candy.
People will buy candy.

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

zeitgeist - 24 Jul 2005 21:24 GMT
> Does anyone have any hints or tips for taking portraits using just one or
> two flash/strobe lights with either softboxes or umbrellas that help to give
> the subject a three dimensional look?
> Sorry for the bad description, but that Hollywood star  look or Rembrandt
> type of lighting, I only have two lights.
> Thanks.

Do a google for "joseph zeltsman" and find a set of tutorials about lighting
and posing that are simple and very intelligent.  He is the first to
articulate a logical system for deciding how and why to pose and light a
particular face.

Simplest 2 light set up, bounce one flash off a side wall, use the other for
hair/kick light on the opposite side.   If you look at hollywood portraits
of strong males, they would have a hard key light from one side, and the
shadow side would be sculpted with a half dozen lights from behind,
typically a strong kick light that would, for some reason I never
understood, that would touch the nose, but its strongest point would be to
splash the shadow side of the face and render rough texture.

The concept of a Rembrandt light is that the key light comes from a 45' off
the nose, though in actual practice photogs place the light 45' from the
camera position, this gives you a 'loop' light (which btw is the style of
lighting Rembrandt and portrait painters of that era actually used.)

The typical feminine light, the light would come from above the camera, in
those days they'd use two spots, on right above and other high above, (again
that 45' angle) and then lots of hair lights.  today you'd use a bounce
board under the camera, (watch out for that glowing Rudolph Reindeer
highlight on the tip of the nose)

Actually I find that by posing the subject in an open door and having them
take a step back to 'just' where the light starts to fall off you will get
perfect glamour light as you see in all those makeup ads, just add some hair
light (bounce a flash off the ceiling behind them, you can even rim light
their hair at the same time.)
Randall Ainsworth - 24 Jul 2005 22:46 GMT
> Do a google for "joseph zeltsman" and find a set of tutorials about lighting
> and posing that are simple and very intelligent.  He is the first to
> articulate a logical system for deciding how and why to pose and light a
> particular face.

Here's the link:

http://www.msnusers.com/Asktheoleproaboutphotography/joezeltsman.msnw

The examples look hokey and dated, but if you can master these basic
concepts, you'll be miles ahead of the pack.
zeitgeist - 30 Jul 2005 08:51 GMT
> > Do a google for "joseph zeltsman" and find a set of tutorials about lighting
> > and posing that are simple and very intelligent.  He is the first to
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> The examples look hokey and dated, but if you can master these basic
> concepts, you'll be miles ahead of the pack.

FWIW, that was produced in the 60's, way before VCRs   When you ordered the
materials, you got a plastic box holding slide dups and a couple cassette
tapes.  It cost a fortune (whatever a fortune cost in those days, it was up
there.)

Its still valid.

except for one serious point.   Mr Zeltsman practiced from the 40's, back
when the only photography was black and white, and a good professional
practice was to use a fill based exposure system, this was the days of
'expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights.'    And a good
studio would install a rock solid fill light, usually putting it, or in
Joe's case, a whole bank of lights on a separate circuit, often with a
reostat or voltage regulator, so your f/5.6 was 5.6 yesterday, this morning,
this afternoon and tommorrow.   Your exposure was based on this 'treashold'
or minimum exposure to get maximum black, then the key light was added to
that.

However, in today's lighting with one large light bank, or working outside
with semi directional open shade, window light, etc, we typically ONLY have
the one light.

otherwise, its the best, easily understood system of lighting and posing.

BTW, his choice of using a woman (his wife actually) to demonstrate
masculine posing helps to drive the point home.
Randall Ainsworth - 30 Jul 2005 12:47 GMT
> FWIW, that was produced in the 60's, way before VCRs   When you ordered the
> materials, you got a plastic box holding slide dups and a couple cassette
> tapes.  It cost a fortune (whatever a fortune cost in those days, it was up
> there.)

I still have some of those slide/tape series that were sold by Meisel.
The concepts from Zeltsman, Cricchio, and others are still valid today.
They are the basics that professional portraiture is based on.
mrburns918 - 26 Jul 2005 07:32 GMT
The great thing about lighting is figuring out your style. Like the
previous posts have stated head to the library and study up and I would
also experiment as much as possible. I hate softboxes and prefer to
bounce light using my SB800 and SB600 wireless off of old projector
screens.

Western
Randall Ainsworth - 28 Jul 2005 02:52 GMT
> The great thing about lighting is figuring out your style. Like the
> previous posts have stated head to the library and study up and I would
> also experiment as much as possible. I hate softboxes and prefer to
> bounce light using my SB800 and SB600 wireless off of old projector
> screens.

You have to know the rules before you can break them.
JPS@no.komm - 28 Jul 2005 09:46 GMT
>You have to know the rules before you can break them.

That oft-repeated anecdote is nonsense, IMO.

More accurately, you have to know that there is a rule to know that you
are breaking it.

Truly creative people are gods who make their own "rules" that give
their creations coherency.
Signature


<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
  John P Sheehy         <JPS@no.komm>

><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><
Randall Ainsworth - 28 Jul 2005 15:13 GMT
> >You have to know the rules before you can break them.
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Truly creative people are gods who make their own "rules" that give
> their creations coherency.

Just turning someone loose with some lights and a camera will generally
result in awful-to-mediocre portrature. And understanding of how to use
the equipment properly is essential to success.
Gregory Blank - 29 Jul 2005 21:29 GMT
> Just turning someone loose with some lights and a camera will generally
> result in awful-to-mediocre portrature.

Thats exactly what most schools of photo do :)  

>And understanding of how to use
> the equipment properly is essential to success.

One never makes good portraiture until it dawns on the
person how to do so,...you can lead a horse but....

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

Lloyd Erlick - 31 Jul 2005 16:44 GMT
...
>One never makes good portraiture until it dawns on the
>person how to do so,...you can lead a horse but....
...

July 31, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

Yes, true. And the dawn comes from ...
practice. It's surprising how much practice
it takes, too, dammit.

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

Keith Tapscott - 31 Jul 2005 18:22 GMT
I`d better get practicing then,
Thanks,
Keith.

> ...
>>One never makes good portraiture until it dawns on the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> net: www.heylloyd.com
> ________________________________
Lloyd Erlick - 31 Jul 2005 23:44 GMT
July 31, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

Well, I should too. I've been far less busy
the past two years than usual (by choice),
and have almost two hundred rolls of 120 B+W
film to process. Basically no darkroom work
for two years. Natalie has new great grand
children, and I'm experiencing pressure to
get working!

So I'm bound to be out of practice, eh ? ...

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

>I`d better get practicing then,
>Thanks,
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>> net: www.heylloyd.com
>> ________________________________
John - 01 Aug 2005 05:16 GMT
> Well, I should too. I've been far less busy
> the past two years than usual (by choice),
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> So I'm bound to be out of practice, eh ? ...

    Should probably take you a week to develop all of that film. Now as to
contact printing and enlargements ... you should be done by Christmas !
Signature

John - www.puresilver.org

Lloyd Erlick - 01 Aug 2005 14:38 GMT
>> Well, I should too. I've been far less busy
>> the past two years than usual (by choice),
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>    Should probably take you a week to develop all of that film. Now as to
>contact printing and enlargements ... you should be done by Christmas !

August 1, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

Hey, I'm digital! I scan all my negatives (in
their Print File three-ring binder type
filing pages) and edit them onscreen. My only
darkroom work is on frames I have selected as
being worth the effort. I never stand over a
sink for contact sheets. The computer has
made my darkroom work vastly more productive,
effective and efficient. (Something I like to
do is use the slideshow function of my image
viewer. I just let the frames I wish to edit
play over and over while I soak it in. Even
though they're not really exactly ...
slides.)

If the computer is so great, why won't it
develop my film?

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

But I must admit I'm having a hell of a time
getting my butt in gear to develop all that
film. I've been procrastinating over the huge
chore of covering two small windows and
draping a doorway so my darkroom can be dark.
Every day I get up resolved to get cracking,
only to gasp in the thirty-four degree
weirdness of smog-choked summer Toronto. Last
season there were three days over thirty
degrees. So far this year, thirty days.
Global warming? Aging, sluggish bozo?
Excuses, excuses?

John - 01 Aug 2005 19:18 GMT
> If the computer is so great, why won't it
> develop my film?

    Because "dip-n-dunk" and "plug-n-pray" are mutually exclusive. One is
dependable and the other is ..... Microsoft !  ;>)

Signature

John - www.puresilver.org

Keith Tapscott - 01 Aug 2005 20:28 GMT
>> If the computer is so great, why won't it
>> develop my film?
>
> Because "dip-n-dunk" and "plug-n-pray" are mutually exclusive. One is
> dependable and the other is ..... Microsoft !  ;>)

I use both digital and analogue, digital allows me to print in colour much
better than I could do chemically, plus allows me to do things that are
physically impossible to do in the wet darkroom, such as retouching and
enhancing the image with the tools in Photoshop.
I must confess though, that although the digital route is probably the best
option for the busy professional photographer in terms of convenience, it is
through the wet process for my B&W work, that I get the most satisfaction,
my darkroom is alive and kicking and (hopefully) will remain so for many
years to come.
You could say that I have the best of both worlds.
Long live the darkroom!
John - 02 Aug 2005 06:39 GMT
> I use both digital and analogue, digital allows me to print in colour much
> better than I could do chemically,

    Ah ! So you're making what are currently called giclee (inkjet) prints.
Even though there are known-stability issues ? I'm planning on shooting
serious digital soon as I ease back into the life of a pro but I'll
probably upload my files to CPQ Colorchrome for printing on RA4.

> plus allows me to do things that are
> physically impossible to do in the wet darkroom, such as retouching and
> enhancing the image with the tools in Photoshop.

    LOL ! I still have my Adams Retouching Machine I purchased from Veronica
Cass herself about 10~15 years ago !

> I must confess though, that although the digital route is probably the best
> option for the busy professional photographer in terms of convenience,..

    It's purely about marketing. Digital offers that immediate gratification
much the same as Polaroid did in the '70's. In fact it's only marginally
better than Polaroid which was limited to relatively small images in
SX-like portable cameras.

    BTW, one of my friends is one of the busiest digital photographers on the
east coast. You name it and he shoots it. He's single and has a
dualie-pickup pulling a 36' trailer all over the place and making a ton
selling digi-pics. He goes to Florida and rents a chopper to photograph a
regatta. He has the inkjet prints ready and waiting when the captain and
crew all hit the docs. Next day he'll be in Georgia or Maryland shooting a
sports event and then on to cover a school contract. He has two Dell
Precision workstations connected to one small HP printer and one large
plotter. All networked wirelessly with his Nikon D2X.

> .. it is through the wet process for my B&W work, that I get the most satisfaction,
> my darkroom is alive and kicking and (hopefully) will remain so for many
> years to come.
> You could say that I have the best of both worlds.
> Long live the darkroom!

    That is exactly how I feel. I'm not giving up on photochemical processes
until the day St.Peter opens those gates. Someday I hope to be printing
platinum as well as silver.

Signature

John - www.puresilver.org

Keith Tapscott - 02 Aug 2005 17:55 GMT
> That is exactly how I feel. I'm not giving up on photochemical processes
> until the day St.Peter opens those gates. Someday I hope to be printing
> platinum as well as silver.

Hopefully, you will be printing Platinum long before those gates open for
you. Hmm, I wonder which films and papers for traditional B&W portraiture
that many professional photographers like to use for good rendering of skin
tones, with out being cruelly sharp.
I`ve had some very good feed back for hints and tips for lighting, thanks to
all who have replied.
Lloyd Erlick - 03 Aug 2005 07:29 GMT
... Hmm, I wonder which films and papers for
traditional B&W portraiture
>that many professional photographers like to use for good rendering of skin
>tones, with out being cruelly sharp.
...

August 3, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

After much direct investigation of exactly
this concept ("cruelly sharp"), I believe no
such thing exists.

I use 120 format film in a 'blad with a 120
mm macro lens for portraits. It's made for
sharpness at close range, and it delivers.
Sharpness in a portrait need not be a bad
thing, any more than motion blur need be bad.
Certain parts of the face should be sharp.
About the only thing I strive for
consistently is to have sharp focus on at
least on eye (and by eye I mean the iris,
really). At usual working distances, which
means about six feet, there is shallow enough
depth of focus that it's easy to have plenty
of unsharp areas on the face.

I don't like less-sharp camera lenses or
panty hose under the enlarger lens because I
can't control where I have sharpness in the
resulting print and where I have softness.
Basically I want sharp irises and eye
highlights, especially if there is light
refracting within the iris.

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

Randall Ainsworth - 03 Aug 2005 13:37 GMT
> After much direct investigation of exactly
> this concept ("cruelly sharp"), I believe no
> such thing exists.

Disagree...ordinary people have facial/body defects which need to be
diminished if you expect them to pay money for a portrait.

> I use 120 format film in a 'blad with a 120
> mm macro lens for portraits. It's made for
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> depth of focus that it's easy to have plenty
> of unsharp areas on the face.

I used the Hasselblad 150mm for many years in combination with a
Softar...before that, I used an RB with their gorgeous soft-focus lens.

> I don't like less-sharp camera lenses or
> panty hose under the enlarger lens because I
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> highlights, especially if there is light
> refracting within the iris.

Diffusion in the enlarging process is a poor way to do it. It results
in shadows bleeding into the highights which is an unnatural situation.
Keith Tapscott - 03 Aug 2005 18:09 GMT
>> After much direct investigation of exactly
>> this concept ("cruelly sharp"), I believe no
>> such thing exists.
>
> Disagree...ordinary people have facial/body defects which need to be
> diminished if you expect them to pay money for a portrait.

What I mean by cruelly sharp, is the choice of particular film types used in
portraiture, some people may use a slow ultra finegrain, high resolution
film that captures every nuance of detail, along with a strong directional
lighting method, so as to emphasise the subjects features and to render
everything in razor sharp focus and detail. While this may be fine for
character portraits to capture each hair, pore and wrinkle, such a film type
may be less desirable for photographing female and/or  child portraits.
For female portraits, films like Pan F Plus, or the late lamented APX 25
films and especially Technical Pan, have excellent ability to resolve fine
details.
If the lady being photographed had a slight skin blemish that was hard to
conceal, such a film would reveal those slight skin imperfections very
sharply.
A film in the ISO 125 or ISO 400 speed group with the film developed in a
fine grain developer if using a medium format camera, might yield a print
which the subject may find more flattering. The choice of a slightly warm
tone paper in a semi-matte surface may also be a little kinder to skin
tones, if you can see the point I am trying to make.
I wasn`t really thinking in the way of using diffusion, as I feel that this
works more satisfactorily in colour rather than B&W.
Keith Tapscott - 03 Aug 2005 18:14 GMT
I should have mentioned that a softer type of lighting would be used with
female portraits.

>>> After much direct investigation of exactly
>>> this concept ("cruelly sharp"), I believe no
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> I wasn`t really thinking in the way of using diffusion, as I feel that
> this works more satisfactorily in colour rather than B&W.
JPS@no.komm - 03 Aug 2005 23:23 GMT
>If the lady being photographed had a slight skin blemish that was hard to
>conceal, such a film would reveal those slight skin imperfections very
>sharply.

When I've taken portraits with my Sony F707 in "nightshot" mode, I've
noticed that blemishes are almost non-existent.  Perhaps concentrating
on the "infra" end of the red spectrum, and using that (or even the red
channel itself) to define luminance in PP would be advantageous.
Blemishes are dynamic events in the green and blue channels, moreso than
in the red, no?
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