Oh boy here we go again.

       Scott's advice is pretty solid, but I'll add a little to it as well.

       Definitely some portrait film, Fuji NPH or Kodak Portra 400 is where
I'd aim. Excellent skin tones and pleasant contrast levels.

       Buy, beg, borrow, or scrounge a couple of extra lenses if possible,
35mm and 85mm, or as close as you can get. 35mm will give you a wider view
to do "locale" shots or small groups, 85mm or a little longer will be
better for portraits. Even 50mm, when used close to people, can distort
faces in an unflattering way. Standing back further and using a short
telephoto works a lot better. Also, it gives better control over depth-of-
field, letting the background go much softer while keeping your subject
sharp.

       Avoid mixed lighting. Contrast always increases on film, even low-
contrast film, and those soft shadows can become much darker in the prints.
Try to stay in the same lighting, and for preference, open shade. Using a
flash, even when the light seems sufficient, can help balance the light
levels, but since you may not have time to get familiar with this, shoot
with and without flash.

       Multiple shots of everything. It's that really great shot that
someone will have their eyes closed in ;-)

       Couple of key things for weddings. Remember that the classic print
size is 8x10, yet your film frame is a different ratio (8x12). Leave space
on the sides when framing your photos to account for this cropping - in
other words, think closer in terms of a square rather than using the entire
frame.

       Also, be sure to shoot quite a few full-length poses, including feet.
Get details of the dress, preferably from all sides, and as Scott says,
bracket (shoot exposures a little above and below the exposure that the
camera meter provides). White dresses and black tuxes often fool the camera
meter, which is adjusted for middle grey.

       Watch every little detail. Your eye should rove the entire background
visible in the frame, as well as every detail on the happy couple, for each
shot. It's real easy to get that annoying distraction in there that can
ruin a photo. Especially watch errant clothing, placement of hands, wilting
flowers, and so on. Photo assistants are fabulous for this - two people
knowing what to look for is always better, and one can rush forward and
smooth the dress train while you hold position.

       Soft focus. A screw-on filter would probably annoy you, since your
best bet is to shoot the same images with and without - they behave
differently in different lighting, and have the most dreamy effect with
*soft* backlighting. If you buy one, go instead for the square format
slide-in filters intended with filter holders like Cokin, and simply hold
it up in front of the lens when needed. In a pinch, you can also use a
clean piece of old nylon hose stretched over the lens, a clear filter with
petroleum jelly smeared around the outer edges, and if weather conditions
permit, a hard huff of breath can condense onto the lens or filter long
enough to work well, but you gotta move quick.

       Best bet: If you can arrange a test shoot ahead of time in the same
locale and conditions, you will learn a tremendous amount. Take notes if
necessary, but the couple of rolls you use will be wisely spent.

       Plan on failures. If you can't have a backup body, at least have
loads of batteries, and a small tool kit. Lots of film. Straight and safety
pins. Lots of lens cleaning materials. Don't let yourself get flustered -
this leads to stupid errors you'll hate yourself for. Take breathers and
think back over what you're doing, and watch the camera settings carefully.
It's easy to forget you set aperture for high depth-of-field and are now in
a situation where the shutter speed is too slow to handhold for sharp
photos.

       All that said, relax and be upbeat and even a little goofy. At least
half of the photographer's job is handling the subjects, and your emotions
will be catching, so make them work for you. The 'happy' couple will
probably be stressed out of their minds, so take control from them and do
it like you've been doing it all your life - they'll be happy to let you
handle it and much more relaxed. Have fun with it, and shoot a couple
frames just for giggles. Take the opportunity to do a couple of informals
and photojournalistic shots before and after, too.

       Hope this helps, and best of luck to you all.

    - Al.

Try to find a photography student willing to do it for cheap or for a
portfolio. Even if they haven't shot weddings before, they should have a
solid portfolio showing that they can shoot well, and artistically.  If
you live in a metropolitan area, craigslist.org is a good place to start
looking.

It may result in better pictures than you could do, and also allow you
to enjoy the wedding.

The first thing you want to do get the subjects in the shade, direct sun is
the definition of harsh lighting and far too contrasty for film to handle,
that means washed out noses and eyes that disappear in the shadow of the
eyebrow.    You could fill flash but would need a strong powerful flash for
the groups.  You would need f/11 for fill light with the sun as the main or
key light at f/16 using an ISO of 125 (shooting 160 film is close enough) so
your proper exposure will be similar to your flash sync speed.   Any built
in flash will not cut it, a good shoe flash may give enough but most are
made for 5-10 feet.   In open shade the lighting will be softer, much less
contrasty, if you have light coming straight down (like at mid day) then the
eyes may still be lost in shadow but since open shade is 4 stops less than
bright sun your shoe flash will have a better chance of doing its job.

and now for a gratuitous snarky comment, this is a public forum on the
internet afterall, but as for the soft and a little fuzzy, isn't that a
little redundant with that camera?  hehehe, sorry, couldn't resist.

you know it amazes me, but of all the concerns a photographer would have
shooting a wedding for the first time, of all the questions to ask, its
always 'what film?"    My question to you is, what kind of paper does your
lab run?   Film is film unless you really know exposures, have done tests to
determine your working ISO, and you can start to notice differences.  If you
don't know what your camera is doing, IE: the dial 'says' 1/125th but what
is the actual speed? then which brand of film is nearly irrelevant.

here's my best tip for you and your 'client,'  take them out for an
engagement portrait, this will do two things, give each of you a clue as to
what to expect, they will see what you can do and most importantly, they
will know what you need from them.  This one thing will help you out far
more than any other tip trick or technique you do on the wedding day.  I
mean, they will probably have a rehearsal for the ceremony, like how
difficult is it to figure out how to walk down the aisle?   do an rehearsal
for the pictures.

  I'd like to add my two cents. I've been a profesional photographer since
1966.
I have heard of many friends who became ex-friends by trying to create
images
of someones wedding. Portraits can be re-done but weddings must be captured
well the 1st time. You would be a much better friend by hiring a pro for one
hour
of formals. But, if you must do the photos, I'd suggest that you do the
photos in NOT
shade but open shade. There is a big difference. Scout out the location
several weeks
before. Ask someone to pose for you. Use a fast film ... you do not want to
open
up the aperature. You want to use a small aperature for a good depth of
field.After
the film is developed look carefully at them to see how you did. I hope you
own
Adobe Photoshop. If so ... have digital scans done too. That way you will be
able to
make corrections.
   As for exposure ... you want to work in open shade so there will be some
detail in
the people. Use an external powerful flash on a light stand and a long flash
cord. Use a
hand held light meter. Meter for the  faces and also for the background. Use
an
exposure for the background and use enough flash power to light the faces
while
the exposure allows the background to have separation from the people. If
you can't
do all this I once again urge you to not do this. Hire someone as your
special gift.

Craig Flory

Easiest way to make a soft focus filter is to take a skylight or UV filter
(I buy ones with dented front rings for this-never paid over $2 for one) and
spray they with hairspray. If you don't get the effect you want-ie too soft
or not soft enough,just soak it in rubbing alcohol for about 2 minutes and
the hairspray washes off and you can try again.
As to film,oddly enough,my best results have been on Fuji's 200 speed
Superia film...seems there's a UV absorbing layer that pretty much stops the
problem of wedding dresses turning a very pale shade of blue.
On lenses.....buy,beg,borrow or steal a 28-80 or something in that range.
That one lens will do 90% of the pictures you'll do at a wedding. If you can
find one,the Tamron 28-80 SP is a great lens for wedding work.