Photo Forum / Photo Technique / People Photography / April 2005
white balance
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dhan simpson - 31 Mar 2005 15:50 GMT hi guys, just wanted to know the difference between the auto, daylight, tungsten and fluorescen thx (,")
Al Denelsbeck - 01 Apr 2005 02:45 GMT > hi guys, just wanted to know the difference between the auto, daylight, > tungsten and fluorescen thx (,") 'Auto' attempts to use the image captured to determine what it would look like under daylight conditions (as opposed to having a color shift from the type of lighting or cloud conditions). Can be fooled if the subject doesn't have enough true highlights in it, but for the most part it's a good default setting. Auto also often allows you to aim the camera at something you know is pure white and 'lock', telling the camera exactly what white is. This is the most accurate method, provided you always lock under the lighting conditions your subject is in.
'Daylight' assumes that you're shooting in open daylight, and since the goal of white balancing is to try and look like this anyway, essentially it is "no adjustment" (though the capture device, and even the lenses, may have a tendency to introduce color shift that has to be compensated for).
'Tungsten' is another word for 'incandescent', or standard filament lighting. If shooting indoors under standard light bulbs, the image would typically be pretty yellow, so this setting aims to balance against that, essentially filtering the image towards blue (the opposite of yellow in the color spectrum).
'Fluorescent' is the counterpart to tungsten, and accounts for the tendency of fluorescent bulbs to turn the image a sickly green - it filters towards magenta.
Now, here's the tricky part. Most flashes are color-balanced towards 'daylight' and need no white balancing. When used indoors under tungsten or fluorescent lights, you're introducing two or more different color lights and the camera cannot possibly compensate for all of them. Without white- balance, your flash picture indoors might have your subject in reasonable color, but the background (beyond the flash's reach and lit by the room lighting) might be yellow or green. If you set white balance for the room lighting, everything illuminated by the true white flash will be turned a bit blue (tungsten) or magenta (fluorescent) by the camera's attempt to compensate for the room lighting.
Best solution - don't mix lighting wherever avoidable. Set your white balance for the room lighting, or auto, and don't use flash.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
- Al.
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zeitgeist - 02 Apr 2005 08:32 GMT > hi guys, just wanted to know the difference between the auto, daylight, > tungsten and fluorescen thx (,") in the days of film, it had to be made to the 'temperature's of the light, daylight was 5500-6000' and tungsten was 3300-4000, oddly enough, the tungsten was called warm and the daylight was thought of as cool. That was cause if you used daylight film with incandescent lights the photos would be very orange color, and if you used tungsten balanced film outside you got a very cool blue tone.
digital cameras can select lighting conditions, you can set it for your daylight, and even adjust for florescent lights which usually gave a greenish cast.
auto balance sucks, because your color balance will juggle around each frame as the sensor 'sees' varying amounts of a color tone.
since this is posted in the 'people' group I will assume you are shooting portraits, lets say you have a woman in a dress that has one panel magenta and the other side is cyan, as she changes poses and the meter has the area it is weighted for filled with more of one color than the other, the color balance will shift wildly.
a lady that did digital retouching and preprint services for photogs was being run ragged by one photog that was shooting portraits of all these real estate agents, the color balance was wildly jumping around between shot to shot, exposure too. why? cause the sensor would see black suit, white shirt, or the woman's red, blue, green, magenta, cyan suit or blouse.
So, its best to learn custom white balance, either off a gray card or use one of those white caps, or just select one of the preset choices which will get you close enough.
one more thing, learn to set your camera to your own standard set up before you put it away. IE, most of us shoot most things with daylight and low ISO. I think those are the standard defaults anyway, that way you won't screw up a shot when you are hurrying to grab the camera, turn it on and catch that rhino smashing the neighbors SUV, and geez, you forgot the last time you shot your kid's school play and had it set for ISO 1,600 tungsten indoor lighting.
McLeod - 02 Apr 2005 17:58 GMT >in the days of film, it had to be made to the 'temperature's of the light, >daylight was 5500-6000' and tungsten was 3300-4000, oddly enough, the >tungsten was called warm and the daylight was thought of as cool. That was >cause if you used daylight film with incandescent lights the photos would be >very orange color, and if you used tungsten balanced film outside you got a >very cool blue tone. I thought it had more to do with the colour of the light-the lower the degrees Kelvin the more orange/red the light, the higher the degrees the closer to blue.
zeitgeist - 04 Apr 2005 03:54 GMT > >in the days of film, it had to be made to the 'temperature's of the light, > >daylight was 5500-6000' and tungsten was 3300-4000, oddly enough, the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > degrees Kelvin the more orange/red the light, the higher the degrees > the closer to blue. yes, that is true, but still, when I think of something warm, I see warm colors, and when I think of something chilly, I see cool colors, when scientifically the opposite is true, when things burn they start out with a red to orange to yellow and as they get hotter they start to glow blue, AFAIK.
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