Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
PhotoKB Home
Discussion Groups
Digital Photography
Digital PhotoDSLR CamerasZLR CamerasPoint & Shoot Cameras
Film Photography
35 mmLarge FormatMedium formatDarkroomFilm and LabsOther Equipment
Photo Technique
Nature PhotographyPeople PhotographyTechnique General
General Photo Topics
General TopicsAustralian PhotographyUK Photography
DirectoryPhoto Clubs

Photo Forum / Photo Technique / People Photography / March 2004

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

high-key portrait w/ B&W

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
M&M - 24 Jan 2004 16:52 GMT
I'd like to know how to make a "high-key" portrait using traditional B&W
film and darkroom techniques.  I only have a white wall and a
strobe/reflector.  I also have some cheap $2 hardware-store light fixtures.

I know that I need to make sure the white wall is blown.  Should I try to
provide extra lighting to the white wall (with standard light bulbs) and
then overexpose?  Should I extend development as well to raise the shadow
levels even more?

Thanks,
M&M
Randall Ainsworth - 24 Jan 2004 17:31 GMT
 The background should be 2 stops brigher than the subject.
LABFIX 2 - 24 Jan 2004 19:57 GMT
> The background should be 2 stops brigher than the subject.

You may risk lens flare with a 2 stop brighter background. I do all my high key
at 1/3 stop over the mainlight.  Works perfectly with no lens flare. ie: loss
of contrast.
Randall Ainsworth - 25 Jan 2004 05:16 GMT
> > The background should be 2 stops brigher than the subject.
>
> You may risk lens flare with a 2 stop brighter background. I do all my high
> key
> at 1/3 stop over the mainlight.  Works perfectly with no lens flare. ie: loss
> of contrast.

Anything less than 2 stops and it won't be white but gray, more than 2
stops and you blow it out.
LABFIX 2 - 25 Jan 2004 15:08 GMT
>Anything less than 2 stops and it won't be white but gray

simply not true.

If you take a incident reading at the dimmest portion of your white background,
and maintain this to be 1/3 of a stop over your mainlight, you will get a pure
white background. You don't need multiple flash heads on the background. I use
one or two depending on the size of the group. It is not necessary to have your
white background absolutely evenly lit, variations of 1/3 of stop are fine.
What is important is that your dimmest area needs to be 1/3 F-stop over your
mainlight. It works everytime. Now, if you are using a reflective meter..that's
a different story.

BTW this technique works with color or B&W
Michael Quack - 25 Jan 2004 20:21 GMT
> > > The background should be 2 stops brigher than the subject.

Nope. Just dead on plus 1/3.

> Anything less than 2 stops and it won't be white but gray,

If it is gray than it is underexposed. Incident reading
by a pro versus (P)rainless mode and matrix image ruining.

Signature

Michael Quack <michael@photoquack.de>

http://www.photoquack.de/glamour/1.htm
http://www.photoquack.de/fashion/1.htm

KBob - 11 Feb 2004 03:49 GMT
>> > The background should be 2 stops brigher than the subject.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>Anything less than 2 stops and it won't be white but gray, more than 2
>stops and you blow it out.

Let's not forget that it's possible to make a high-key portrait using
a dark background as well.  It's all a matter of clothing and
lighting.
Robert Brodie - 01 Mar 2004 22:31 GMT
The only problem with a 2 stop difference is kickback onto your subject. It
is most notable in the hair. I have the room and go 1.5 to 2 stops with
great results. If I go a third or even a half hotter the background just
isn't clean enough for me.  I have never gotten lens flare at all. I keep
the background even with 2 lights and no more than 1 or 2 tenths variance
across the whole background. My subjects are on a white platform that has

> >> > The background should be 2 stops brigher than the subject.
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> a dark background as well.  It's all a matter of clothing and
> lighting.
Lewis Lang - 14 Mar 2004 04:19 GMT
>Subject: Re: high-key portrait w/ B&W
>From: "Robert Brodie" robert@brodiephotography.com
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>across the whole background. My subjects are on a white platform that has
>just enough spill to wipe out the edge. Hope this helps.           "KBob"

Hi "KBob":

Are your backgrounds middle gray, then lit plu 1.5 to 2 stops to get them
equivalent of white or are you starting off with a white background? Is the
"spill" from the background lights and does the spill wipe out the platform's
edge because it is still receiving background light at about 1.5 or more? stops
over the main/key/subject's light?

TIA

Check out my photos at "LEWISVISION":

http://members.aol.com/Lewisvisn/home.htm

Remove "nospam" to reply

***DUE TO SPAM, I NOW BLOCK ALL E-MAIL NOT ON MY LIST, TO BE ADDED TO MY LIST,
PING ME ON THE NEWSGROUP. SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE. :-) ***
Michael Quack - 24 Jan 2004 19:55 GMT
> I'd like to know how to make a "high-key" portrait
> using traditional B&W film and darkroom techniques.  

Easy. First of all you should have little to no
dark tones in your image. Blondes work better than
dark haired people. White clothes, white walls,
white furniture, and a soft lighting that creates
as little hard shadows as possible.

The often heard advice to "blow out" a background
or to overexpose is pure rubbish. A high key shot has
the majority of tonal values in the right third
of the histogram, flat, soft lighting and little
to no visible shadows.

Expose correct (meaning you don't let the camera
meter decide for you), zone system helps.

Develop like normal, and print like normal.
Unless you do something wrong, the proper
lighting and camera setting should enable you
to print high key shots with the same settings
as low key shots. Do your homework before and
set camera and lights right, then you don't have
to fumble around in the lab.

Signature

Michael Quack <michael@photoquack.de>

http://www.photoquack.de/glamour/1.htm
http://www.photoquack.de/fashion/1.htm

zeitgeist - 25 Jan 2004 05:59 GMT
> I'd like to know how to make a "high-key" portrait using traditional B&W
> film and darkroom techniques.  I only have a white wall and a
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> then overexpose?  Should I extend development as well to raise the shadow
> levels even more?

You want a smooth wash of light from one end to the other.  fall off in one
corner or side will cause a few irritiations when printing, especially if
you ever shoot color.

I used to bounce a couple heads into the upper side walls of the studio,
sorta like making the walls and ceiling a huge umbrella.  Ideally you would
have four lights crossing the background, just like lighting art work with
heads all around.

I had plenty of room to move the subject away from the wall.

Light your subject.  It seems folks think that they don't need much light
cause of all the spill bouncing off the back, probably the same folks who
expect the spill from their lights to light up a dark background on low key
images.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.