First, be advised that being outside during a lightning storm can be fairly
dangerous. Try to avoid being the tallest object around, or being near the
tallest object.

That said, the easiest way to photograph lightning is probably to go
somewhere where there is little if any light from streetlights, cars, etc.
Put the camera on a tripod, open the shutter, and wait for a lightning hit.

Getting one of those spectacular lightning photos like you see in National
Geographic or the photo books requires a lot of patience and a bit of luck!

Ken Hart

There seem to be two major techniques used--long exposures at night or a
lightning trigger in daylight.  

You might find <http://www.uscoles.com/howtolightn.htm> to be of interest.

There is a commercial lightning trigger available from
<http://www.lightningtrigger.com/> and information on making one at
<http://www.solorb.com/elect/lightning/>.

Not sure if there is any way to use a lightning trigger with your camera
other than by cobbling up a solenoid-actuated release that pushes the
button.  According to the specs I could find it has a 64-second time
exposure capability so night shots would I think be your best bet.

The camera has a 64 sec max exposure - good enough!

Here's a recent discussion, with links and whatnot...
http://www.stormtrack.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=6689

Sometimes you get lucky and "something wonderful" happens.
http://www.shutterpoint.com/Photos-ViewPhoto.cfm?id=299989

Here are some very nice pics that were entered in a contest:
http://www.stormchasers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=507
http://www.stormchasers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=508
http://www.stormchasers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=509
http://www.stormchasers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=510
http://www.stormchasers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511

Or, to blow my own horn (Sry!)
http://members.cox.net/geonerd/images/Midnight_Thunderstorm_x966.jpg

Feel free to sign on with Stormchasers.org or Stormtrack.org
Another good source of info at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lightning/

-Greg

Cars offer good protection with their rubber tires - as do porches - do
you have a buddy with a pickup and a cap? Otherwise, set up a tripod in
the car and obviously use a cable release - 2 methods:

1. put your camera on "bulb" - the last setting on your manual setting
- have something to cover the lens - I've used black construction paper
glues to a popcycle stick - so keep the lens covered, open the shutter
- and wait for a blast - need to react quick and remove the lens
blocker as soon as you see a blast

2. do most of the above but don't block the lens - open the shutter and
wait - note that the longer you leave the film exposed, the greater the
chance of blled/overexposure from distant lights

that's it - it's a waiting game

"Sioux" <101brat@comcast.net> wrote in news:1153207725.803629.29400@
75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

       Plenty of good advice from the others, so I'll throw in my 2
pfennigs...

       With your Kodak, you're a little limited in your options - you
can't simply lock the shutter open and wait, and you can't use the
electronic release options like lightning detectors. So that means
increasing your odds.

       You'll pretty much want to shoot at night, or at least late dusk,
so you can leave the shutter open as long as possible and not blow the
image out pure white. Set the ISO as low as it goes, which will allow for
longer shutter times and finer detail, less chance of the dark areas
going completely grainy/noisy.

       Aperture doesn't matter too much for lightning, as long as you're
focused at infinity, but if there's still light in the sky using a
smaller aperture will give you better options.

       Someting I've found over the years, is that lightning actually
follows a loose pattern of timing. Count off between good strokes, figure
the timing, and open your shutter about five seconds before the next one
is "due". Not completely accurate, but it will increase your chances of
getting a decent strike. My experience has been that bright strokes and
small or inter-cloud ones have a faint tendency to alternate.

       Vantage point in key. Flat areas work best, since you can see the
storm advancing a long ways off, but shooting from a hill or at the head
of a valley can help. Bear in mind the decrease in safety that altitude
brings, and that strokes can occur well in advance of the apparent front.
Also be aware that a significant warning sign is feeling the hairs on
your neck stand up. If that occurs, you are in immediate and serious
danger, and throw yourself to the ground, in a ditch, down the hill,
whatever, as fast as you can.

       Once the rain starts, your chances of getting anything just about
vanish - the haze that surrounds you will obscure the lightning. In some
conditions, you can shoot the receding storm as well, which is a lot
safer.

       Wider angles (shorter focal lengths) increase the chances of
catching nice strokes, but also minimize them in the frame - it's a
tricky balance point. I have found that 35mm focal length (equivalent)
seems to work best, but have successfully shot receding storms with a
105mm.

       Shooting from the window of a high rise also works, and gives you
altitude, safety, and often a great vantage point. Again, once the rain
starts you're probably out of luck, since the water running down the
glass will also obscure your shots.

       Really want good shots? Go to Florida. In summer, there's
practically a storm every afternoon or evening, and it's flat enough to
see them advancing. The coasts allow you to shoot a long ways off. Just
be aware that storms move fast in Florida, and be prepared to get soaked.

       Good luck!
 

    - Al.

Get steady tripod and and learn how to use your cameras manual settings
and use long exposure time. If sky is too bright you can use ND filters.

Here is some of my lightning photos:
http://www.petrilopia.net/
and
http://www.pbase.com/whig/lightnings

Hopefully somebody will wrote some feedback/comment about
those photos too =)