> http://www.diyphotogear.com
>
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> Check it out when you have a minute and we've many more projects to
> post in the coming weeks so check back often!
Well I did much the same thing, but instead of the pipe for the base,
I used piece of 3/4 inch ply for the base. I used a flange to give
the pipe something to screw into. My lights had clamps on them so I
just clamped them. I am not sure though that I fully understand how
you got the adjustment sections to work.
dj_nme - 06 Jul 2007 01:06 GMT
>>http://www.diyphotogear.com
>>
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> just clamped them. I am not sure though that I fully understand how
> you got the adjustment sections to work.
These pictures shows Ed Baumgarten (the author) drilling and tapping the
hole to put the height adjustment lock knob into, which is made from the
bell coupling:
<http://www.diyphotogear.com/images/cstand7.jpg>
<http://www.diyphotogear.com/images/cstand9.jpg>
The images are on page 3:
<http://www.diyphotogear.com/cstand1-3.html>
It looks pretty clear in this image on page 4
<http://www.diyphotogear.com/images/cstand16.jpg> that the smaller,
upper tube slides up and down through the bell adapter and the eyebolt
is standing in for a store-bought locking knob.
It's from here :<http://www.diyphotogear.com/cstand1-4.html>
I presume that the same thing has been done for the top-most section of
pipe for it to slide up and down in the upper bell adapter, and is in
turn locked by it's own knob or set-screw.
I guess that if you wanted to, you could make the column out of more
adjustable sections, as long as you could find bell adapters that a
smaller sized piped could slide through; it might take a bit of trial
and error to find the correct parts.