Sounds like you are wrestling with steel reels and tanks. Good choice!
Here are some hints:

In your film-loading area -- not "reduced light" but completely
light-tight and no light at all -- step one is to unspool the entire
roll and drop the film spool in a handy container (such as the floor
until you put the lights back on).

Step two: completely remove the paper -- it is taped at one end and free
at the other. Take it off, crumple it up, and have it join the spool.

Step three: as soon as you take off the paper the film will roll back up
faster than an out of control window shade. This is a good thing because
it rolls emulsion-in

Step four: with steel reels you load from the inside out -- same as 35mm
but wider film and shorter length. The thing to practice is getting the
film clipped in and wound without crumpling it or getting fingerprints
all over the emulsion. White cotton gloves are a good idea.

Step five: once the film is on the reel check -- with your gloved
fingers -- that the film fits somewhat loosely in the grooves, and that
the film isn't stuck to itself. Then just pop the reel in the tank (you
did remember to bring the tank into the dark side, didn't you?) close
the tank and turn on the lights.

Don't forget to throw out the litter.

Practice hint: do it _once_ while looking, then only practice with your
eyes closed. You have to learn what it feels like when things went well
and when they didn't go so well.

The ratcheting kind of reels, plastic, usually in a Paterson tank, are
much easier for 35mm since that has more rigidity than 2-1/4. I've
ruined many more rolls of 120 on plastic reels than ever on steel reels.

Hope this helps

I start by separating the film from the paper backing. I tear the tape. I
insert the tape end under the spring clip. It is critical to get it centered
in the clip. I find that starting with the taped end makes it easier because
of the increased stiffness.

Bow the film slightly and roll it on. If the film consistently gives a
problem, the reel may be out of alignment. Was it ever dropped? I have never
successfully "re-aligned" a reel-- I have a collection of reels that I've
dropped that I use for Christmas tree decorations!

Some people swear by the 'rachet' type plastic reels. They must be bone-dry
when you load them. You may find them easier, but they are not a cure-all. I
use both the plastic and the metal types, depending on how many rolls I have
to process-- my largest metal tank only holds two 120 rolls.

Practice is the key. And once you get the film centered in the clip,
everythng else should be easy. I wouldn't bother with the idea of starting
the film in reduced light-- too much risk there.

Remove the paper backing.

Grasp the loose end with one hand, then with the other hand lightly cup to
capture the spool, and pull the paper off. Then take the film at the end
where it is adhered and peal the paper off. I drop the paper backing and
spool on the floor until all the film is loaded.

Enjoy!

Bruce,

Okay, I'll be the contrary opinion on this one.

First, among steel 120 reels, there is a world of difference between the
reels available out there.
The generic Japanese reels commmonly available in the photo stores [when
there were photo stores] are poorly designed, i.e. mostly junk [and I own a
buch of them] - "wire" too thin; spring clips irregular and way too
strong/tight.  After trying many styles, I found that the older Nikor reels
have a "push in to catch" system which is easy and nearly fool-proof.  See
ebay.  The Hewes (?) reels [English; expensive] have a good reputation as
well. With any steel reel, practice in light, and then in the dark, is
necessary to get the technique down pat.  You have to learn to feel with
your fingers how the film is loading.

I do not remove the spool or the paper backing, and I load from the loose
end of the roll.  The spool and backing protect the unloaded film and give
you something to hang onto.  If you cannot get the thing on the reel, you
can rewrap the roll light-tight until you find another reel or your temper.
The trick is all in getting the film centered on the reel and "caught" in
the center clip; any reel which is not damaged will load easily from that
point. Then tear off the paper backing at the other end of the loaded film
strip and chuck the paper and spool. [Bonus: since the film is already
loaded, who cares where you put the loose backing and spool.] First
unwraping the film roll and discarding the spool and backing lets the film
roll up like a window shade, to use the metaphor of another reply, but it
also invites emulsion sratches in that process as well has scratching the
edge of the roll across the emusion if you have to then struggle to get the
reel loaded.

Once you get good reels and the technique down, loading steel reels is much
less hassle than the "push and rock" system of plastic reels.  However, if
your steel reels continue to frustrate your efforts, then go to the plastic
and get on with something more important that test driving a bunch of reels.

Randy Stewart

It takes some getting used to. I always used stainless steel reels, and
for loading, used a curved piece of stainless that I got with a tank or
somewhere...it's maybe three inches long and curved so that the film
fits into it, and you hold the the thing in your hand, and the film
goes onto the reel.

Paper reel?

chop off the edges of the film on both sides (by scissors).
between your body and a rim  of the table is running slowly your film
(no curliness), in the full dark, of course.
I load the film onto the reel around 60sec.
I use a "PLASTIMAT" tank (old czech product). No problem. An volume is
550ml for 120 film.
Van

Bruce napsal(a):