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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Medium format / November 2006

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RB67 question

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Bruce Baumgart - 22 Nov 2006 17:22 GMT
A while back I was looking at buying a Mamiya TLR, and got some good
comments here.  I also found an FAQ site that went into great detail on the
model differences, lens differences, accessory descriptions, etc.

Now I am looking at RB67s.  Does anybody know of an FAQ for the RB67[ProS]
similar to G. A. Patterson's for the TLRs?  I want to read some more about
it before I start asking questions.  The number of back options alone are
almost overwhelming.  A Google search results in pages of "For Sale" or
very specific questions.

Signature

Bruce "This space for rent" Baumgart
babaumgart@newsguy.com

Randall Ainsworth - 23 Nov 2006 01:27 GMT
> A while back I was looking at buying a Mamiya TLR, and got some good
> comments here.  I also found an FAQ site that went into great detail on the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> almost overwhelming.  A Google search results in pages of "For Sale" or
> very specific questions.

The suckers are huge. I never took mine off the camera stand in the
studio...and only had one lens (150mm soft focus). You need at least
two backs because they're not well made. I had trouble remembering to
turn the thing between vertical and horizontal. I guess it's the
Hasselblad in me.
Duncan - 23 Nov 2006 07:05 GMT
I love mine a beast of a thing but a workhorse.

I have a 90mm K/L as standard although the 127mm is usually supplied for
that. The 50mm is a C lens and needs a collar for use on the RB67 SD Pro and
I also use a 250 K/L a real beauty and the 140mm Macro with floating
elements. Once you get the hang of using the floating elements its simple to
use and is equally fine for general use.
With this I have three backs and on Polaroid back.

This kit is far too heavy to hand hold and perhaps when I was younger I
could have held it. Although it makes me wonder how the old press pros
lugged around plate cameras. Were photographers then stronger?

I mainly use it in studio and have a 45mm tube for macro/close up work. I
picked up a 45 degree head for it a while back which is useful when shooting
portraits and forgetting that it's a reversed image on screen. Otherwise I
take off the waist finder and use chinagraph pencils to mark up double
exposures.

The kit is boxy, bulky and clunky but what results. If I needed to use
digital I'd hire a back for it so it's highly flexible. Being entirely
mechanical it's forgiving and fool proof with the interlocking system. I did
find a loose grub screw in one of the backs a couple of days ago. Can't find
where it came from but doesn't seem to affect the use. RB Kit is very cheap
these days especially the original S and Pro S. Can't remember the
difference the SD Pro is as it really doesn't make too much difference to me
or the client as long as they get the shots they want.

I'd definitely thing twice about taking it out on a shoot and I'd rather use
my Hasselbalds to do that as they are lighter.

I would say what do you want one for and what do you expect to use it to do.
That way we could be more constructive in our comments.

Duncan

>> A while back I was looking at buying a Mamiya TLR, and got some good
>> comments here.  I also found an FAQ site that went into great detail on
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> turn the thing between vertical and horizontal. I guess it's the
> Hasselblad in me.
B.A.Baumgart - 23 Nov 2006 22:29 GMT
Duncan and Roger replied to me, so here goes:

I really like to read about something before I start asking questions.  
That's why I was hoping for an FAQ pointer.  An intelligent question gets
a better answer.  If you don't start with "What is a shutter?" or "Is
film dead?", people won't get [so] tired of hearing from you.

I am an amateur, but have shot a lot of 35mm and 6x6 (only under the name
of 2 1/4 x 2 1/4).  I like the big negatives and slides.  I will be
shooting primarily portraits with it.  But since I live about 1 1/2 hours
from Yellowstone Park,  landscape is definitely up there (I can see Grand
Teton from my office window).  I can drive close enough to where I would
be shooting that I am not too worried about the weight.  I'm in the
process of losing 20 pounds of excess me, so I might as well replace it
with camera.

Why I want the RB over other MF is the 6x8 back.  I can always crop down
to 6x6, but it is kinda hard to crop a 6x6 up to 6x7 or 6x8.  Also,
although I like film, I do think that the digital backs will eventually
come down in price enough that us mere mortals can afford a used one.

I am going to buy used.  I prefer KEH over eBay.  RB prices are really
low right now.  I can afford the C lenses.  I have read of some people
complaining about inconsistent quality in them.  I'll start with the body  
(Pro S) and the 127mm, then go from there.  

Roger:  Did you ever try the 150 SF as a standard tele?  What I've read
says that at F8 or higher it will work as that.  But I haven't heard a
user say it.
Rob Novak - 28 Nov 2006 04:53 GMT
>Roger:  Did you ever try the 150 SF as a standard tele?  What I've read
>says that at F8 or higher it will work as that.  But I haven't heard a
>user say it.

Yes, the 150SF is soft-focus only with apertures wider than f/8.
Stopped down to f/8 or smaller, it functions as a standard lens.

As for hand-holding the RB... I've done it.  I've shot with it for
hours with a neckstrap, the 50mm "C" lens (which is heavier than most
of the lenses below 180mm), and a lenshood.  It's not as impossible as
some claim.

You should have at least two 120 6x7 backs, and maybe a Polaroid and a
645 or two.  It's nice to be able to switch aspect ratios and film
types on the fly.  Polaroids are still fun in their way, and for
studio work with strobe, they're very helpful.

I haven't had reliability problems with winders or anything, but I'm
also using Pro-S and Pro-SD backs (2nd and 3rd gen.).  With the
Pro-S/SD, you have the framing indicators in the viewfinder so you
shouldn't have Randall's problem of forgetting to rotate the back into
the proper position.

It's a very nice mechanical system that produces wonderful images when
handled properly.  I've lugged it on a tripod over my shoulder for 4-5
hours and only grumbled a little.  ;-)

Signature

Rob on the Web: http://rob.rnovak.net

Bruce Baumgart - 28 Nov 2006 15:27 GMT
> <SNIP>
>
> You should have at least two 120 6x7 backs, and maybe a Polaroid and a
> 645 or two.  It's nice to be able to switch aspect ratios and film
> types on the fly.  Polaroids are still fun in their way, and for
> studio work with strobe, they're very helpful.

There are different Polaroid backs.  I assume for different films, or are
they just "upgrades" and all take the same film?  I know that Polaroid has
stopped production of some of their stuff.  Do I need to worry about
back/film compatability?

> <SNIP>
>
> It's a very nice mechanical system that produces wonderful images when
> handled properly.  I've lugged it on a tripod over my shoulder for 4-5
> hours and only grumbled a little.  ;-)

Any thoughts or experiences on the RB mechanical vs the RZ electronic
shutter?  A concern is getting a used camera that is being sold because it
is waaaaay past its shutter life and needs to be rebuilt.

Signature

Bruce "This space for rent" Baumgart
babaumgart@newsguy.com

Rob Novak - 29 Nov 2006 13:46 GMT
>There are different Polaroid backs.  I assume for different films, or are
>they just "upgrades" and all take the same film?  I know that Polaroid has
>stopped production of some of their stuff.  Do I need to worry about
>back/film compatability?

Pretty much all of them take 600-series 3-1/4 x 4-1/4" pack film,
unless they specifically state 4x5 or otherwise.  There are some
subtle differences between backs - just look for ones that don't
require a special P-adapter for the RB.  The NPC MF-3 is perfectly
servicable.

>Any thoughts or experiences on the RB mechanical vs the RZ electronic
>shutter?  A concern is getting a used camera that is being sold because it
>is waaaaay past its shutter life and needs to be rebuilt.

A CLA and shutter timing from KEH on Mamiya "C" lenses is around $140
on average.  Typically, it's the slowest speeds that first start
showing timing problems with the Seiko shutters.  If the shutter needs
replacing, I'm sure it'd be considerably more, but unless it's a real
beater that's usually not required.
Signature

Central Maryland Photographer's Guild - http://www.cmpg.org
Strange, Geometrical Hinges - http://sgh.rnovak.net

Noons - 24 Nov 2006 03:08 GMT
> Now I am looking at RB67s.  Does anybody know of an FAQ for the RB67[ProS]
> similar to G. A. Patterson's for the TLRs?  I want to read some more about
> it before I start asking questions.  The number of back options alone are
> almost overwhelming.  A Google search results in pages of "For Sale" or
> very specific questions.

This is a good intro:
http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?MamiyaRB67.ht
ml~mainFrame

there is another site for medium format with plenty of info,
but I don't have the link here.  I'll post it tonite when I get home.

I've got a rb67pros and it's a beast of a camera. But it's
my choice for MF: can put just about anything in it,
including dig backs.  I use mostly the chimney finder with
meter: got one of the original ones made by Nikon
and it's just perfect.  The prism ones will give you a smaller
image and you'll need a split-image r/f screen to work effectively
with them.  MOF, I'd say this or a microprism screen is
a mandatory item with this camera, unless you're working in
a studio.

You need a tripod for this camera.  Hand-held is possible,
but nor recommended.  Alternatively, some form of bean bag
or similar.  I stuff the camera, two backs and three lenses
in a large carry-bag which is then used to land the camera
when shooting.  When I'm not carrying my big Benbo.

The C lenses are quite satisfactory.  Got a 50 and a 180.
The 180 is just perfect for protrait. I also like it for landscape,
but I'm weird!  The 50 is just a classic 24mm-class wide angle.
Very good, but not for everything. Recently I got a 127 K/L which
is being experimented with at the mo.  There are also some good
examples of shots taken with the 75mm K/L at photobase, so pay
them a visit and see if you like the looks.

At the moment I can't recommend KEH: they have been sitting
on a wrong item sent to me for over a month now, and I'm not
happy at all with their service.  You might get different results?
Noons - 24 Nov 2006 15:09 GMT
> there is another site for medium format with plenty of info,
> but I don't have the link here.  I'll post it tonite when I get home.

There you go:
http://medfmt.8k.com/

just surf around this one: plenty of good stuff there, some of it
a bit dated but most is still solid.
 
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