 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
| PhotoKB HomeDiscussion Groups Digital Photography Digital PhotoDSLR CamerasZLR CamerasPoint & Shoot CamerasFilm Photography 35 mmLarge FormatMedium formatDarkroomFilm and LabsOther EquipmentPhoto Technique Nature PhotographyPeople PhotographyTechnique GeneralGeneral Photo Topics General TopicsAustralian PhotographyUK PhotographyDirectoryPhoto Clubs |
Photo Forum / Film Photography / Medium format / May 2005Jewel shoot
I need to photograph a variety of jewelry pieces on white background. (rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings, both precious stones and pearls) There are about 40 - 50 shots that I need to do in one day, so I need some tried and tested tips on fixing things into position quickly and safely with as little need for Photoshop editing as possible. I thought of using 'polyboard' where an assistant can get the next shot ready on a separate table using whatever method is suitable. The 'set' could then be placed into the lighting for final arrangement. I've heard that some use wax for the most delicate of pieces (how do they do that?) Any ideas would be most welcome. Many thanks. >I need to photograph a variety of jewelry pieces on white background. > (rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings, both precious stones and pearls) > > There are about 40 - 50 shots So you have a pro job and have no clue, and I'll bet you are shooting digital to boot. Tip: Soft Lighting - but you probably don't want to buy the spendy soft box lighting systems, so surf for the little gizmo that's a translucent box with a hole in the top and side in which you poke the camera lens. I'll bet even eBay sells such a thing. > So you have a pro job and have no clue, and I'll bet you are shooting > digital to boot. Tip: Soft Lighting - but you probably don't want to buy > the spendy soft box lighting systems, so surf for the little gizmo that's a > translucent box with a hole in the top and side in which you poke the camera > lens. I'll bet even eBay sells such a thing. Don't spend money on those contraptions... Get one or more translucent white perspex sheets, set them up behind/aside the scene, put the lights behind that. As near or far and as many as you like. Cheap, and full control of what you can do. The thing to keep tiny things in place is something similar to plasticine, but more sticky. I forget the name, it's "something-tack" It lifts off without leaving a trace or stain. On 24/5/05 5:06 pm, in article 4293505d$0$69031$dbd49001@news.wanadoo.nl, >> So you have a pro job and have no clue, and I'll bet you are shooting >> digital to boot. Tip: Soft Lighting - but you probably don't want to buy [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > I forget the name, it's "something-tack" > It lifts off without leaving a trace or stain. The lighting's not a problem. I was asking about ways of fixing jewelry other than using blu-tak and fishing line, but thanks anyway. On 24/5/05 9:40 pm, in article BEB94FDD.152B8%teflon@bluebottlefly.com, > The lighting's not a problem. I was asking about ways of fixing jewelry > other than using blu-tak and fishing line, but thanks anyway. Someone mentioned 'earthquake-tac' 'art-tac' and 'fun-tac'in another thread. Maybe you were thinking of one of those. I have to be careful as a lot of the pieces are pearls. I'm insured, but that's not the point. Anyway, I'll have a look in an art shop tomorrow to see what they have. Thanks again. > Someone mentioned 'earthquake-tac' 'art-tac' and 'fun-tac'in another thread. > Maybe you were thinking of one of those. [...] I can't really say. The problem is, i know the stuff under its/a German name: "Haftpast" (sold by Hama See: http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*4035/action*2563/searchMode*1/bySearch*Haftpast). Works like a treat, and, as mentioned, without leaving a trace. You can use bits of it to stick things in, and even build tiny frames, sticking bits of needles in a dollop of the tacky stuff, all out of the camera's line of sight. On 25/5/05 5:59 pm, in article 4294ae58$0$25270$dbd49001@news.wanadoo.nl, >> Someone mentioned 'earthquake-tac' 'art-tac' and 'fun-tac'in another > thread. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > sticking bits of needles in a dollop of the tacky stuff, all out of the > camera's line of sight. Looks familiar. I'm also taking some 'Filo' modeling dough, the inevitable fishing line, pins, wire, polyboard and card. Reminds me of school. 8] On 25/5/05 6:26 pm, in article BEBA73EB.155E2%teflon@bluebottlefly.com, > On 25/5/05 5:59 pm, in article 4294ae58$0$25270$dbd49001@news.wanadoo.nl, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> The problem is, i know the stuff under its/a German name: "Haftpast" (sold >> by Hama See: http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*4035/action*2563/searchMode*1/bySearch*Ha>> f >> tpast). >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Reminds me of school. 8] To reply to your earlier post - I planned to use a boom with one main soft-box over but slightly behind the pieces tilted forward, and white card either side. Another soft-box low down at the front for very slight fill if needed, though I do like the idea of perspex sheets for control. > To reply to your earlier post - I planned to use a boom with one main > soft-box over but slightly behind the pieces tilted forward, and white card > either side. Another soft-box low down at the front for very slight fill if > needed, though I do like the idea of perspex sheets for control. This is getting of-topic, as you rightly pointed out before, but yes: having lights behind perspex sheets provides control using a soft box doesn't. You can vary the distance between light and diffussor; vary the angle at which the light hits the diffusor (that, with distance, already provides a world of possibilities using a soft box does not); put anything in between light and diffusor; set two or more lights behind the diffusor, directed at the same, or different spot(s); use different coloured lights blending anyway you want to; etc. And of course do what you can do with a softbox too: vary the distance and angle between diffusor and subject; use anything between diffusor and subject to shield selected parts in desired ways; etc. On 24/5/05 4:44 pm, in article 1196iu5a03t79bd@news.supernews.com, "Lorem Ipsum" <Lorem@ipsum.xxx> wrote: >> I need to photograph a variety of jewelry pieces on white background. >> (rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings, both precious stones and pearls) [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > translucent box with a hole in the top and side in which you poke the camera > lens. I'll bet even eBay sells such a thing. The lighting's not a problem. I was asking about ways of fixing jewelry other than using blu-tak and fishing line. How would you do it? |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.