I've never used large format before. However I own an RB67 so I appreciate
the results that a larger negative can give.
I'm interested in 4x5 for two specific areas.
SCENIC: For my own personal enjoyment and also for selling as matted /
framed for private sale. This will include a certain amount of
architecture.
LANDSCAPE: My other hobby is landscaping and gardening / horticulture. I
could be photographing peoples yards and gardens and farms either for
pleasure or profit or both. This would include a lot of close-up and macro
photography.
I'm guessing a 4x5 set up with tilting and shifting would be best? With my
own wide angle 35mm lenses there is a high degree of barreling and
distortion in order to include all that I need in the frame. Would tilt and
shift reduce this?
On the subject of tilting and shifting...is that a whole science in itself
to know how to correct focusing and what ever else it achieves? Is there a
relatively simple formula for determining exposure?
For my purposes what would be a good entry level camera and lens(s)?
Also for printing 4x5 negs to enlargements is it more economical in the long
run to have a lab do the printing? I've done some 35mm b/w, and color
processing before so I know what's involved. Unless there is a strong
argument for printing 4x5 negs myself I'd rather not go that route for a
long while.
Are there services that can scan the 4x5 neg to a file for me to tweek and
upload to a printing lab?
Thanks, Ivan
Ivan - 22 Jun 2004 19:11 GMT
Yeah Yeah....I know....I'm going to get several posts saying to read earlier
posts. I'm doing that now so save yourself the trouble. :o)
Unless of course there is a particular thread you want to point me to.
Ivan
Nick Zentena - 22 Jun 2004 19:22 GMT
> Also for printing 4x5 negs to enlargements is it more economical in the long
> run to have a lab do the printing? I've done some 35mm b/w, and color
> processing before so I know what's involved. Unless there is a strong
> argument for printing 4x5 negs myself I'd rather not go that route for a
> long while.
In the long run it's always cheaper to do it yourself. In the long run
you'll have paid for all the equipment. The problem is how do you define the
long run? Considering how cheap used darkroom equipment is today it won't
take too long to pay for a well setup darkroom. Odds are your first batch or
two of film will pay for a B&W processing setup.
OTOH if you don't enjoy it you don't enjoy it. I wouldn't suggest
developing/printing your own if you don't enjoy the dark. Do what you enjoy
and leave the rest to somebody else.
Nick
Nicholas O. Lindan - 22 Jun 2004 20:04 GMT
> Do what you enjoy and leave the rest to somebody else.
Best advice yet in this group.

Signature
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Ivan - 22 Jun 2004 20:06 GMT
NICK'S reply:
> In the long run it's always cheaper to do it yourself. In the long run
> you'll have paid for all the equipment. The problem is how do you define the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> developing/printing your own if you don't enjoy the dark. Do what you enjoy
> and leave the rest to somebody else.
"In the long run"...well for me I'm wondering how long it will be before
digital backs for large formats will equal the resolution of film at an
affordable price. I DO enjoy darkroom work i.e.. precise control over
cropping and being able to enlarge to a precise custom size. However, I'm
enjoying "digital" darkroom work now more than I ever enjoyed chemical
darkroom. I'm thinking I would prefer to develop my own film and make my
own contact prints, and let a lab scan the negative to a digital file for
me.
On the other hand, if there were a profit to be made from custom printing
4x5 negs for others I would be very interested in setting up a large format
darkroom. With large format equipment still going strong I suspect that the
film will still be available for some time to come....or at least until I'm
six feet under....I'm 45 now so you do the math!! :o))
Basically photography and small business mingle freely in my future so I
don't want to make an investment now that will soon be obsolete.
Ivan
Nick Zentena - 22 Jun 2004 21:04 GMT
> "In the long run"...well for me I'm wondering how long it will be before
> digital backs for large formats will equal the resolution of film at an
> affordable price. I DO enjoy darkroom work i.e.. precise control over
I wouldn't hold my breath. I can't see why anybody would develop one and
mass market it.
> On the other hand, if there were a profit to be made from custom printing
> 4x5 negs for others I would be very interested in setting up a large format
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Basically photography and small business mingle freely in my future so I
> don't want to make an investment now that will soon be obsolete.
One of the local shops charges $3 per 4x5 sheet [B&W or C-41] that's
Canadian and before taxes. Plus that's non-rush. OTOH my 4x5 developing
equipment set me back not much more then C$100. Even with me choosing one of
the more expensive new options. But my setup can also be used for smaller
formats [with extra reels] or even for prints. My used enlargers weren't
exactly expensive either. Getting a roll of 35mm printed up to 8x10 from a
pro lab might exceed what I paid for my enlarger. So it doesn't take long to
pay for the equipment.
Nick
Ivan - 23 Jun 2004 02:14 GMT
Nick: thanks for the prices. It's helpful.
> One of the local shops charges $3 per 4x5 sheet [B&W or C-41] that's
> Canadian and before taxes. Plus that's non-rush. OTOH my 4x5 developing
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Nick
one_of_many - 23 Jun 2004 00:16 GMT
> [...]
About that barrel or pincushion distortion - shouldn't be happening in
_any_ case. You might have a low-end lens or one pushed way beyond
reasonable design. Converging verticals is another matter and Yes, the LF
with perspective controls can help you in that regard and others. You
should find the view particularly good for shooting down somewhat across a
garden to get deeper focus; that, in part, is what they are built for.
Argon3 - 23 Jun 2004 13:53 GMT
As to all of your technical questions, don't expect to get answers that are as
in depth as you seem to be looking for on the internet. Go buy a good book on
large format. Simmons, Stroebel, the Ansel Adams series...whatever...you'll
get more of the big picture from reading them than you will from gleaning
opinions on the internet.
As far as the darkroom end of it...if you're not doing color darkroom work
consistently and
Argon3 - 23 Jun 2004 14:05 GMT
....sorry...got cut off by a hair-trigger "return" key...
...darkroom work...if you're not doing color darkroom work on an almost daily
basis, you will face the problem of aging chemistry being inconsistent,
maintaining temperature control and just plain making the time to do the
darkroom work. These factors can make darkroom work more of a burden than a
pleasure...that "fine control" that you seem to be after will be attained at a
steep cost. Commercial labs are running all the time...they are consistent
and, in my opinion, cost effective. If you're sweating a cost difference of
10-25% per shot, do you really want to get involved in shooting another format?
Look into medium format cameras that will allow you to still shoot roll film
and get perspective corrections: there are several choices available. Seems
like most people are just using medium format and large format originals for
scanning these days anyway...the prints are being made on inkjet and iris
printers...the quality issue of large format versus medium format under that
set of circumstances is arguable.
argon
Norman Worth - 24 Jun 2004 00:21 GMT
For your intended uses, you seldom need extreme movements. A 4X5 field
camera with a 150mm lens is a good starting place. It's lighter and may be
easier to use than the RB67. As an alternative, a 4X5 press camera (e.g. a
Speed Graphic) may give you what you want. You will probably use front rise
and fall and front tilt the most. The movements will not correct barrel
distortion (which is a property of the lens). You will find depth of field
more of a problem than with 6X7, and tilts and sometimes swings are useful
to get around it. There are several good books on how to manage the
movements. The Kodak "Book of Large Format Photography" is a good
introduction, Stroebel's "View Camera Technique" in very thorough. Many
low cost flat bed scanners can now handle transparencies of 4X5 inches.
Doing the scanning and tweaking yourself is worthwhile. Commercial labs
will do it, but they are expensive.
> I've never used large format before. However I own an RB67 so I appreciate
> the results that a larger negative can give.
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Thanks, Ivan
Ivan - 24 Jun 2004 03:39 GMT
> For your intended uses, you seldom need extreme movements. A 4X5 field
> camera with a 150mm lens is a good starting place. It's lighter and may be
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Doing the scanning and tweaking yourself is worthwhile. Commercial labs
> will do it, but they are expensive.
Norman, thanks so much for your valuable input.
BTW, I just read a convincing review of the Epson 4870 here
http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/interactive/Epson%204870/page_1.htm
Now I'm curious if scanning a contact print from the 4x5 negative would be
equal or preferable to scanning the negative itself.
Ivan.
RSD99 - 24 Jun 2004 06:32 GMT
"Ivan" asked:
"... Now I'm curious if scanning a contact print from the 4x5 negative would be
equal or preferable to scanning the negative itself.
..."
No.
Not equal ... by a "long shot." You would have the additional loss(es) caused by the paper
printing process. Paper prints are (generally) limited to somewhere around 10 line-pairs
per millimeter resolution ... because that's roughly the resolving limit of the human eye.
Any detail beyond that would probably just be "gone" ...
Why do you think you *need* to make prints ... of any kind ... before scanning?
Ivan - 25 Jun 2004 01:28 GMT
> Why do you think you *need* to make prints ... of any kind ... before scanning?
Because I've been conditioned by previous bad reports to believe that
negatives just don't scan as well as prints on ANY flat bed. That's the only
reason why. I'm trying to plan a work flow that suits my purposes before I
invest in a system.
Thanks for that information, it's valuable. It answered an important
question. I appreciate the knowledge and experience in this news group.
Ivan
Raphael Bustin - 25 Jun 2004 01:39 GMT
>> Why do you think you *need* to make prints ... of any kind ... before
>scanning?
>
>Because I've been conditioned by previous bad reports to believe that
>negatives just don't scan as well as prints on ANY flat bed. That's the only
>reason why.
If that's your reasoning, I believe you're mistaken.
Negatives are in fact ideal for scanning and it
doesn't really take any huge talent. Most
scanner drivers will get you most of the way there,
and a basic knowledge of color correction will
take you the rest of the way.
In many regards negative film is easier to scan
than slides.
rafe b.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com
one_of_many - 25 Jun 2004 02:04 GMT
> >> Why do you think you *need* to make prints ... of any kind ... before
> >scanning?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> and a basic knowledge of color correction will
> take you the rest of the way.
You miss the whole friggin point, Mr. Digital. One wonders why you are
even here.
one_of_many - 25 Jun 2004 02:03 GMT
> > Why do you think you *need* to make prints ... of any kind ... before
> scanning?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Thanks for that information, it's valuable. It answered an important
> question. I appreciate the knowledge and experience in this news group.
From time to time I work with a well-published photographer who feels the
same way. He makes wet prints first, then scans and then only to
accomodate sampling of his work on the web. The outcome is just what he
wants: a reasonable compromise to present web-version of his _real_ prints
which have already been interpretated onto paper - already been through
the limitatations of gradation inherent in the medium. There is a certain
amount of handwork that is important to retain.
It is about esthetics. Choose what you want and don't be mislead by those
who substitute arithmetic for esthetics, for example Rafe who hasn't done
enough LF to even comment from experience. He will deluge you with
impressionistic bullshit metrics.
Make your own way. Personally, I think you are on the right track. Print,
then scan. The print is everything.
Raphael Bustin - 25 Jun 2004 04:55 GMT
>It is about esthetics. Choose what you want and don't be mislead by those
>who substitute arithmetic for esthetics, for example Rafe who hasn't done
>enough LF to even comment from experience. He will deluge you with
>impressionistic bullshit metrics.
Piss off, Mr. Stafford.
You're off base as usual, and probably
off your meds as well.
rafe b.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com