Hi
I'm shooting lots of detailed Jewellery for a catalogue with a digital
camera, and am trying to get a consistent colour background for all the
shots.
I can't use too many lights because the items are small.
After much experimenting I've come to the conclusion that in order for all
the backgrounds to be consistent I have to knockout the backgrounds and
insert a standard coloured background using photoshop.
My question is which background will give me the cleanest objects and
background to remove in photoshop?
I've tried white but I end up with lots of shadows to clean up.
I'm frightened of black as it may give me lost on black in the jewellery
items that I won't be able to easily separate out in photoshop.
Perhaps a lightbox is best, but then won't I get white reflective edges that
will merge with the background and not give me a clean knockout?
What do you suggest?
Thanks
J
jjs - 26 Apr 2004 12:43 GMT
> My question is which background will give me the cleanest objects and
> background to remove in photoshop?
Two things effect how the background can be selected from the objects: the
actual color range you select and how it differs from the object, and
focus (boundary effect). Of course whatever color you choose is likely to
be cast into the objects so you want the background out of focus anyway.
I would choose blue. I am sure you will make some test images with
different light and backgrounds to be sure. Right? Ask this question in
the photoshop group for more info.
Raphael Bustin - 26 Apr 2004 14:21 GMT
>Hi
>I'm shooting lots of detailed Jewellery for a catalogue with a digital
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
>What do you suggest?
There seems to be a long tradition of using blue
backgrounds for exactly the purpose you describe,
and it's called bluescreening.
There are several chapters about bluescreen
techniques in "Photoshop Channel Chops" by
David Biedney, Bert Monroy and Nathan Moody.
The book may be out of print (my copy is
coyright 1998) but probably not too hard to find
used.
rafe b.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com
Jack - 26 Apr 2004 14:53 GMT
Thanks but blue doesn't work with objects that may themselves contain blue.
Jewellery may also get a blue colour cast/spill from the background.
Thanks
J (uk)
> >Hi
> >I'm shooting lots of detailed Jewellery for a catalogue with a digital
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> rafe b.
> http://www.terrapinphoto.com
Sherman - 26 Apr 2004 16:11 GMT
> Hi
> I'm shooting lots of detailed Jewellery for a catalogue with a digital
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> Thanks
> J
A couple of suggestions. First try not to shoot the objects on the
background. Elevate the objects well above the background (I assume you are
shooting down toward a table top here). I do this by placing a sheet of
very clean glass on blocks placed at the corners. How high you elevate the
glass depends on the objects you are shooting, the lens you are using and
the aperture selected. I have found that for close-up work three to six
inches works pretty well.
Next use a background like a bright green (chromakey green for instance,
which is made for just this procedure). Place your lights well to the side
and shoot across your objects. That will give you good edges and separation
from the background.
With your objects well above the background and your lights at angles on the
sides the background should be very evenly illuminated and will be easy to
remove in Photoshop. If necessary you can place a couple of small lights so
they hit the background without hitting the glass or jewelry to provide even
illumination.
If you shoot downward at an angle and the glass is clean it will disappear
completely. You shouldn't need special non-reflective glass for this but if
you want just use an anti-glare 8x10 or 11x14 sheet of glass from a framing
shop.
HTH,
Sherman
http://www.dunnamphoto.com
Jack - 26 Apr 2004 17:46 GMT
I like your idea.
It should help rid those shadows (and colour casts) that are a pest to
remove.
Nice, must try it.
Thanks
> > Hi
> > I'm shooting lots of detailed Jewellery for a catalogue with a digital
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> Sherman
> http://www.dunnamphoto.com
Jack - 27 Apr 2004 13:01 GMT
Hi
I've just tried it and... what should I say... the quality of the items are
superb unbelievable clear and separated completely from the background. Wow!
Were were you, when I shot my last 200 items? ;-)
I can't look at them now, they are so bad.
How do I handle droop earrings? They must hang for them to look "real". At
the moment I just make a hole in my sheet of paper and stick the earrings
in.
Any ideas how to "hang" earrings/objects on glass?
Thank you for your very valuable time.
J uk
> > Hi
> > I'm shooting lots of detailed Jewellery for a catalogue with a digital
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> Sherman
> http://www.dunnamphoto.com
Nicholas O. Lindan - 27 Apr 2004 18:51 GMT
Stick earrings to glass. Raise glass to vertical. Arrange camera
& lights ....

Signature
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
> Hi
> I've just tried it and... what should I say... the quality of the items are
[quoted text clipped - 74 lines]
> > Sherman
> > http://www.dunnamphoto.com
Jack - 27 Apr 2004 22:41 GMT
That's fine for a few pairs, but not for 400 pieces.
A quick release glue?
"Nicholas O. Lindan" <nolindan@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
> Stick earrings to glass. Raise glass to vertical. Arrange camera
> & lights ....
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > Thank you for your very valuable time.
> > J uk
Nicholas O. Lindan - 27 Apr 2004 22:55 GMT
Cut earlobe off mistress...
Seriously. Why not glue a few tiny hooks - something a jeweler
could cook up -- and crazy-glue the hooks to the glass.
You can suspend them with fishing line and then remove the line
with photoshop -- but as you said -- 400 times just isn't practical.
If you have 400 pics to take then you need to build a semipermanent
jig (or jigs) for this: one for pierced ears, one for clip-ons ....

Signature
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
> That's fine for a few pairs, but not for 400 pieces.
> A quick release glue?
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> > > Thank you for your very valuable time.
> > > J uk