Fuji Film processing??

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Gregory Blank - 15 Jul 2005 18:16 GMT

Here's a couple questions-thoughts for someone to answer if
they can:

I have been using a local Q-Lab and my Kodak transparencies come out
great, nice color balance perfect exposures or at least as expected when
bracketed - consistently as expected. Fuji Films - OTOH are sometimes ,
good and a lot are not, I see shifts in the color some times more
magenta, but more often blue green. I found that a skylight filter helps
some with the Fuji but I usually don't use the filter with either brand
filter so I am guessing its more Fuiji related or how the Lab is
processing it. I find when the exposures are accurate the color is dead.
I've tried over exposing the film and pulling it a touch to hold high
values, it seems to work although I am not sure of the consistency
of that (with them and it cost a lot more).

So I guess my questions are:

Has anyone had this type of experience and solved it, and how?

How many people here use Sky1A filters, how many don't when shooting
transparencies?

Does anyone really know who does the best very best Fuji transparency
Processing?

Thanks

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Gordon Moat - 15 Jul 2005 19:45 GMT

> Here's a couple questions-thoughts for someone to answer if
> they can:
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> good and a lot are not, I see shifts in the color some times more
> magenta, but more often blue green.

I thought Fuji transparency films were always blue-green biased. ;-)

> I found that a skylight filter helps
> some with the Fuji but I usually don't use the filter with either brand
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Has anyone had this type of experience and solved it, and how?

I only had some trouble with Provia, and with Velvia 100F, though it could
have more to do with the film than processing. I no longer use Provia at
all, so I don't know if the newer F version is any better.

> How many people here use Sky1A filters, how many don't when shooting
> transparencies?

Almost never, unless I am shooting a landscape or seascape, then sometimes.
I am more likely to use an 82A at dusk, or twilight, and sometimes an 81A
for daylight. Quite often I use no filters.

> Does anyone really know who does the best very best Fuji transparency
> Processing?
>
> Thanks

I mostly use Kodak transparency films, except for Astia 100F. However, the
lab I use most of the time has a Fuji E-6 machine, and Kodak films always
turn out fine. When I shoot Astia 100F, it is very accurate in colour, with
nice results. I don't shoot Velvia (ISO 50), though I will probably try out
Velvia 100F. Anyway, if you are curious, this is the main lab I use:

<http://www.chromedigital.com>

If you happen to be local, their usual turnaround on E-6 is about three
hours. They produce nearly all my chemical colour prints for my fine art
prints too. I have been happy to use them for the last nine years.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat
A G Studio
<http://www.allgstudio.com>

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Gregory Blank - 15 Jul 2005 20:10 GMT

> I see shifts in the color some times more
> > magenta, but more often blue green.
>
> I thought Fuji transparency films were always blue-green biased. ;-)

Not quite this much, besides I have had really positive (pun intended)
with Fuji films and Kodak....its just this one (now dominate local lab)

> > How many people here use Sky1A filters, how many don't when shooting
> > transparencies?
>
> Almost never, unless I am shooting a landscape or seascape, then sometimes.
> I am more likely to use an 82A at dusk, or twilight, and sometimes an 81A
> for daylight. Quite often I use no filters.

Good to know.

> > Does anyone really know who does the best very best Fuji transparency
> > Processing?
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> nice results. I don't shoot Velvia (ISO 50), though I will probably try out
> Velvia 100F. Anyway, if you are curious, this is the main lab I use:

I just received 6 rolls of the newer non F version Velvia 100
I am going to run some tests between two labs.....maybe save the
Velvia though for some good stuff.

> <http://www.chromedigital.com>
>
> If you happen to be local, their usual turnaround on E-6 is about three
> hours. They produce nearly all my chemical colour prints for my fine art
> prints too. I have been happy to use them for the last nine years.

Thanks again I'll check the site and see if its logistically acceptable
for me. Take Care.

> Ciao!
>
> Gordon Moat
> A G Studio
> <http://www.allgstudio.com>

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Photobossman - 16 Jul 2005 02:52 GMT

Go to your local camera shop and buy a Fuji Mailer and have Fuji process the
roll for you probably the best price in the country.

photobossman

>> I see shifts in the color some times more
>> > magenta, but more often blue green.
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
>> A G Studio
>> <http://www.allgstudio.com>

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babelfish - 16 Jul 2005 14:11 GMT

Fuji and Kodak films should both produce great results in a properly
balanced E6 line. I've been processing professional E6 since its inception
28 years ago and we're a QLab. What I can tell you is that color developer
pH prescriptions that operators make to fine tune their processes will
affect Kodak films one way and Fuji films in another. At the "ideal"
balance, both films will be optimal. Looking for this sweet spot is one of
the ways we're taught to monitor the process. I just processed a bunch of
8x10 Provia yesterday - photos of jewelry - and the results were nothing
short of stunning. You should search for a custom lab that does dip and dunk
processing, and not a minilab with a Noritsu. Such machines are not easy to
keep in tune due to the small volume of chemistry in play, and most people
who run them wouldn't know how so you hope they don't try.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Blank"

> I have been using a local Q-Lab and my Kodak transparencies come out
> great, nice color balance perfect exposures or at least as expected when
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Does anyone really know who does the best very best Fuji transparency
> Processing?

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Gregory Blank - 16 Jul 2005 16:16 GMT

> Fuji and Kodak films should both produce great results in a properly
> balanced E6 line. I've been processing professional E6 since its inception
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> > bracketed - consistently as expected. Fuji Films - OTOH are sometimes ,
> > good and a lot are not,

As I originally stated I am using a Q-Lab that is a dip and dunk lab. In
one of the other news groups another friend of mine posted a link to
Jobo's website which explains a lot,... I appreciate your insight.

http://www.jobo-usa.com/faq/e-6_developer_times.htm

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babelfish - 18 Jul 2005 07:43 GMT

> As I originally stated I am using a Q-Lab that is a dip and dunk lab. In
> one of the other news groups another friend of mine posted a link to
> Jobo's website which explains a lot,... I appreciate your insight.
>
> http://www.jobo-usa.com/faq/e-6_developer_times.htm

There's much I take exception to in this link, and for the moment, I'll
simply chalk it up to the drawbacks of processing in a tube with quickly
exhausting chemistry (which they've alluded to). I'd have to see the plots,
but I think they're way off base, especially with regard to color developer
times.

As for Qlab, no lab ever lost that designation for doing a bad job, only for
not buying Kodak chemicals. Qlab is a system of monitoring and analysis
(which the lab can use well, or not!) and a guarantee to the customer that
Kodak chemicals are in use - nothing more.

Regards,
john c
tech photo & imaging

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