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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Film and Labs / March 2005Fujifilm B&W film question
Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if so, what is your impression? What is the best developer to use with this film? -- Colyn Goodson http://home.swbell.net/colyng http://www.colyngoodson.com ColynG© wrote: > Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if > so, what is your impression? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > http://home.swbell.net/colyng > http://www.colyngoodson.com Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I use Acutol, but D-76 should be very good. >> Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if >> so, what is your impression? >> What is the best developer to use with this film? >> >Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I use >Acutol, but D-76 should be very good. D-76 has long been a favorite of mine as well as HC-110. Thanks -- Colyn Goodson http://home.swbell.net/colyng http://www.colyngoodson.com Start at D-76 1:1 for about 8 minutes, @ 68F and see how you do. What format are you using? ColynG© wrote: > >> Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if > >> so, what is your impression? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > http://home.swbell.net/colyng > http://www.colyngoodson.com I have just bought a roll of Fuji 100 Acros, and the suggested starting point time for D-76 that Fuji give is 10.5 minutes when diluted 1+1, are you using a condenser type enlarger to print with? I am not disputing your suggested time and you obviously have a system of film processing that works for you, its just that when I curtail the developing times given by the film manufacturer, I tend to find that the tonality of my prints sometimes look like cigar ash and have poor blacks and dirty looking highlights if the film is radically pulled at the developing stage. Perhaps this is because I am using a diffuse light source enlarger. I would like to know which enlarger type, brand and model that you are using. I will probably start with the manufacturers time and then adjust it to suit my own enlarger but your recommendation of 8 minutes has made me curious from a point of view as to where I should start from. Start at D-76 1:1 for about 8 minutes, @ 68F and see how you do. What format are you using? ColynG? wrote: > >> Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if > >> so, what is your impression? > >> What is the best developer to use with this film? > >> > >Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I use > >Acutol, but D-76 should be very good. > > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > http://home.swbell.net/colyng > http://www.colyngoodson.com > I have just bought a roll of Fuji 100 Acros, and the suggested starting > point time for D-76 that Fuji give is 10.5 minutes when diluted 1+1, are you [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > my own enlarger but your recommendation of 8 minutes has made me curious > from a point of view as to where I should start from. The troll only knows 35mm film, he only uses a condenser head and only advocates using grade 3 as a baseline contrast filtration. Ignore him you"ll be better off in the long term. "The troll only knows 35mm film, he only uses a condenser head and only advocates using grade 3 as a baseline contrast filtration." That's because by trial and error this has proved itself.... Greetings; "Trial end error" has proven 35mm film to be better than 120 6 x 7 for example? This defies even logic! "Trial and error" has proven use of grade 3 as a baseline for all things photographic? Same comment. Michael, why not go and earn some serious money by advising all of the photo/film companies to immediately drop anything else except grade 3 paper and 35mm film. I'm sure they would be amazed by your in-depth vision of the realities of the requirements of the photographic process. > "The troll only knows 35mm film, he only uses a condenser head > and only advocates using grade 3 as a baseline contrast filtration." > > That's because by trial and error this has proved itself.... > Greetings; > > "Trial end error" has proven 35mm film to be better than 120 6 x 7 for > example? This defies even logic! Not what I said. > "Trial and error" has proven use of grade 3 as a baseline for all things > photographic? Same comment. Minor White, Zone System Manual: "With roll film use the #3 contrast grade of enlarging paper, or its equivalent. With sheet film standardize on the #2 medium contrast grade." (p. 74) "As was said the #2 contrast grade of projection paper is standard with sheet film and the #3 with roll film. The first is chosen because its contrast is midway between the harder and softer contrast grades. The #3 contrast grade is consistent with the general practice for small negatives." (p. 77) Now, what were you saying? > Michael, why not go and earn some serious money by advising all of the > photo/film companies to immediately drop anything else except grade 3 > paper and 35mm film. I'm sure they would be amazed by your in-depth > vision of the realities of the requirements of the photographic process. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > > > That's because by trial and error this has proved itself.... > Greetings; > > "Trial end error" has proven 35mm film to be better than 120 6 x 7 for > example? This defies even logic! No, I didn't say that. > "Trial and error" has proven use of grade 3 as a baseline for all things > photographic? Same comment. No, for roll film. I quote: "With roll film use the #3 contrast grade of enlarging paper, or its equivalent. With sheet film standardize on the #2 medium contrast grade." (p. 74) "As was said the #2 contrast grade of projection paper is standard with sheet film and the #3 with roll film. The first is chosen because its contrast is midway between the harder and softer contrast grades. The #3 contrast grade is consistent with the general practice for small negatives." (p77) Minor White, Zone System Manual OK, now what were you saying? > Michael, why not go and earn some serious money by advising all of the > photo/film companies to immediately drop anything else except grade 3 > paper and 35mm film. I'm sure they would be amazed by your in-depth > vision of the realities of the requirements of the photographic process. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > > > That's because by trial and error this has proved itself.... > Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if > so, what is your impression? > What is the best developer to use with this film? I wrote an article for View Camera Magazine about 1 -1/2 years back, the developer depends on the negative size. The choices I used were D23, PMK and HC-110. The film is a very predictable film, good resolution and good grain least for 4x5. Personally to start you might try using one of the more dilute forms of HC110 -like E dilution.... and test for your personal EI of the film and cameras you use.  SignatureLF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
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