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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Film and Labs / March 2005

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Your 8mm film home movies are decaying, transfer before its too late

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The Video Editor - 16 Mar 2005 22:02 GMT
We have a serious article fully footnoted to the US library of
Congress, Congessional Hearings, the Film Institute and more. Your film
is dying from what is called Vinegar Syndrome. Read it before you
regret it.
http://www.dvdhomevideoeditor.com/ARTICLES/FILM_DECAY_ISSUES.htm
Michael Weinstein - 18 Mar 2005 00:36 GMT
> We have a serious article fully footnoted to the US library of
> Congress, Congessional Hearings, the Film Institute and more. Your film
> is dying from what is called Vinegar Syndrome. Read it before you
> regret it.
> http://www.dvdhomevideoeditor.com/ARTICLES/FILM_DECAY_ISSUES.htm

Actually, I just went through a 1965 8mm film on Kodachrome and some on
Dupont Black and White and it's in gorgeous shape with excellent
unfaded colors (Kodachrome, stored in the dark). Looks a lot better
than my 1981 era VHS which is noised up and decaying.

Transfer your old videotapes to film!!!

Signature

Michael     |    "He's dead, Jim."

Derek Gee - 19 Mar 2005 06:47 GMT
> We have a serious article fully footnoted to the US library of
> Congress, Congessional Hearings, the Film Institute and more. Your film
> is dying from what is called Vinegar Syndrome. Read it before you
> regret it.
> http://www.dvdhomevideoeditor.com/ARTICLES/FILM_DECAY_ISSUES.htm

In my experience, most home movies are NOT suffering from Vinegar Syndrome,
largely due to correct processing procedures from Eastman Kodak.  I've
handled lots of Regular 8, Super-8, and 16mm footage over the last 29 years.
I just recently transferred a regular 8 film from 1947, one of the oldest
8mm films I've projected.  The much greater danger to the film is from
mishandling, poor projection practices, and lack of new equipment to project
it on.  The existing base of 8mm projectors is aging, and parts for many
projectors are unavailable.

Everyone should transfer their film to video for convenience, and as a
backup to the original film, and make sure they do not throw away the film
originals after transfer.  Many people made this mistake after transferring
their films to VHS.  Now with improved resolution playback of DVD's, they
regret not having the originals to have new transfers done.

Derek
lolajoker@webtv.net - 19 Mar 2005 08:24 GMT
I have just had my 8mm and super 8mm home movies transfered to DVD and I
have a few questions. First, how should I store my film? Currently I
have 2 reels in metal cans and the rest are in cardboard film boxes.
They are all in a acid free photo box in my closet. I live in Colorado
so it is a dry climate. I had the films tranfered to DVD only, now I
keep reading that they should first be transfered to a miniDV as a
master. Is this true? I was a little disapointed at the result of my
transfer. The film is out of focus in many spots and you can see it
fousing in and out and the movies on the DVD seem to be running just a
beat slower than normal speed. The tansfer company I used said that the
unfocused film is from the film cuping or curling maybe from shrinkage.
They said that the slowness is due to matching film frames to video
frames. Are these valid explanations? I was suprized at the finished
product because they said my film was in good shape after they first
scanned it.
James Robinson - 19 Mar 2005 14:56 GMT
> First, how should I store my film? Currently I have 2 reels in
> metal cans and the rest are in cardboard film boxes. They are
> all in a acid free photo box in my closet. I live in Colorado
> so it is a dry climate.

The Image Permanence Institute of RPI wrote a report on the degeneration
of acetate-based film. The title is "IPI Storage Guide for Acetate
Film."  It has many good suggestions (Acrobat file):

http://www.rit.edu/~661www1/sub_pages/acetguid.pdf

The two main enemies of film life are heat and humidity, with heat being
of greater risk.  As an example, they estimate that film stored at 80
degrees F will only have 1/2 the life of film stored at 70 F. (25 years
vs 50 years at 50% humidity)  There is a chart in the above report that
shows the relationship.  
Film stored at 90 F, and 80% humidity might start having problems in as
little as 7 or 10 years. While daily temperature swings will of course
extend that time somewhat, you can see the detrimental effect on film of
living in a place like Singapore, where the temperature and humidity are
typically on the high side.

Overall, you want to keep the film away from anything that releases
chemical vapors, like wood, particleboard, photocopy machines, vinyl,
and so on.  You also want to keep it as cool as possible.  Archivists
seal the film in metal cans at about 40% humidity, and store them in a
freezer. That isn't practical for most people, so simply packaging the
film in sealed packages when the humidity is low, plus keeping the film
in a cool place will likely give film life of better than 50 years.
James Robinson - 19 Mar 2005 15:00 GMT
> > First, how should I store my film? Currently I have 2 reels in
> > metal cans and the rest are in cardboard film boxes. They are
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> The Image Permanence Institute of RPI wrote a report on the degeneration
> of acetate-based film.

That should of course been RIT, not RPI. At least they are both in New
York, so I was close.
Derek Gee - 20 Mar 2005 06:53 GMT
>> First, how should I store my film? Currently I have 2 reels in
>> metal cans and the rest are in cardboard film boxes. They are
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> film in sealed packages when the humidity is low, plus keeping the film
> in a cool place will likely give film life of better than 50 years.

In addition to this excellent advice, let me add a couple of things.  First,
I cannot stress the importance of keeping your film in cool, dry place.  No
attics, no basements.  If your house gets hot and humid during the summer,
try and keep your film in the coolest area of the house (preferably air
conditioned).

Second, as refrigerating your films is usually impractical for most folks,
you might consider buying some molecular sieves to put in the cans with the
film.  They retard vinegar syndrome.  Check out this nifty Kodak information
page on them:

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/technical/molecular.jhtml?id=0.1.4

I purchase my molecular sieves from Urbanski Film.  Their website for
supplies:

http://members.tripod.com/~Moviecraft/supplies.html

Derek
Jeremy - 21 Mar 2005 21:25 GMT
"Derek Gee"

> In addition to this excellent advice, let me add a couple of things.  First,
> I cannot stress the importance of keeping your film in cool, dry place.  No
> attics, no basements.

Another equally-important caution is to avoid changing temperatures if
possible, like closets that are near outside walls.  Seasonal outside
temperatures may result in wide fluctuations in temperature throughout the
year.

One of the best places in terms in the home, of steady temperatures, is a
bedroom.  It is typically heated in winter and air conditioned in summer,
and it has a relatively stable temperature.
 
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