The first thing to do is to try to avoid using the auto mode, and learn
to set a good manual exposure.  The auto mode assumes that every scene
reflects only 18% of the light.  Very bright or very dark subjects will
cause the auto mode to set the wrong exposure.

You might purchase a gray card, and practice using it to set your
exposure.  You will start getting better results.

Also, if your subject is very light, you will have to increase the
exposure about a full f-stop from what the camera suggests.  The
opposite for very dark subjects.

Underexposure.

Underexposure.

Underexposure. Never use 'auto-exposure' with transparency film. The
latitude of transparency film is too narrow for most systems to
handle.

Underexposure. Never use 'auto-exposure' with transparency film. The
latitude of transparency film is too narrow for most systems to
handle.

Underexposure.

Sure, here are some possibilities:
- The ISO setting is wrong.
- Your camera meter could be out of adjustment.
- Your meter was metering on the wrong subject.
- The exposure compensation dial is set to other then zero.

You need to remember that the latitude of chrome films is the lowest of
the bunch, so it needs the most care.  A camera can constantly
underexpose negatives by 1 or 2 stops, and the printing process
compensates for it, Chromes stand on their own, so there is no down the
line adjustment being done.

The ISO setting issue, usually isn't a problem with modern cameras and
films, where the cartridge is DX coded.  However many cameras that do
this, have a default setting for non-DX films, if your using a 64ASA
film, and the camera is assuming 100ASA, then that could be your problem.

An electronic camera of the F80's  vintage should not have adjustment
issues, however compare the auto settings, to either a hand-held light
meter or another camera to see if it's reading the right value.  Then
check the exposure compensation dial, it could have been accidentally
set to non zero, and that could be causing your problem.

W

I find that using Fuji Reala colour negative film gives me the same effect on a
bright sunny day. Also am using an F80. Exposure is bang on, but dark colors
look jet black with no detail. This is even with lab compensation. Other than
that, the other colours seemed real enough.

D.R.

hmm, not really.  Usually people unfamiliar with slide film complain that
all the highlights are blown because they didn't know you are suppose to
meter for the highlights (opposite of neg film where you meter for the
shadows).  Were these unusually contrast-y scenes?  Kodachrome typically
does hack these very well, especially K200.  Slower Ektachrome typically has
more dynamic range.

How are you viewing them?  Maybe a problem with your projector?
--
Dominic Richens | dominic@alumni.uottawa.ca
"If you're not *outraged*, you're not paying attention!"

It may be a camera calibration error. Try the following:

1.    Use a lightmeter against a fixed subject and record the reading
2.    Point the camera at the same fixed (and lit) subject and note what the
camera says it wants to do.
       Try this with the various modes that the F80 offers.

The readings should all be the same, or at least within a third of a stop.
If they are not, then the camera has a metering problem.

3.    Are you using a tripod, and letting light into the viewfinder?

4.    My experience in using Kodachrome (64) in an auto camera is good, even
though the camera does not support 64ASA; it doesn't work with autoflash
though; does your camera feel the need to operate it's built-in flash? If
so, disable it for the tests and the pictures you like to take.

A