Photo Forum / Digital Photography / Digital Photo / September 2006
Need help spending $3000...
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plastic_razor@yahoo.com - 01 Sep 2006 13:00 GMT I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious one. My former roommate was a semi-pro photographer, so I know what I'm getting myself into. After months of deliberating, the committee (ie The Wife) finally agreed to allocate $3000 to my new hobby.
Things I am *not* interested in: concert photos, sports photos and bird watching. Things I want to do: Landscapes, portraits, candids, sky scrapers, and historical landmarks. I will definitely be taking lots of low-light photography --- sunsets, sunrise, city nightlife, downtown skyline at night, and cathedral interiors. I'd like to make quality 19" X 13" prints, and hang them on my wall without feeling embarassed.
Right now I'm thinking of getting the latest Digital Rebel (XTi), the only wide-angle lens available for it (EF-S 10-22mm), and the best standard zoom lens for low light situations (EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS). I have no idea if I'll need a lens longer than 55mm. The default "kit" lens with Digital Rebel is maxed at 55mm, so maybe it's not such a big deal to work under the same restrictions?
I don't know if the equipment I listed is good enough for what I want to do. I'm certainly open to suggestions on how to get started. I haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and photo printers yet.
m Ransley - 01 Sep 2006 13:34 GMT Im no pro at this and have not done it but my thought if I was to do this is the new Rebel 400 will do well, you will be probably shooting more than 30 seconds and the 400 has a bulb mode but I dont know how you trigger it, be sure it is something that will work for you. For large prints there was an interesting thread about Mosaics using www.ptgui.com Your sharpest photos are with prime lenses not zooms, for great detail stitching 4-9-12 or whatever number of shots will realy get you detail, then you won`t want an ultrawide lens but maybe [and im guessing here] but the best 50mm prime. Figure in a very good tripod and head. For printers my Canon mp950 will print amazing detail it is 2 picoliter 600 dpi. Canon large size dedicated printers are I believe the sharpest at 1 picoliter.
Scott W - 01 Sep 2006 15:58 GMT > Im no pro at this and have not done it but my thought if I was to do > this is the new Rebel 400 will do well, you will be probably shooting [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > dpi. Canon large size dedicated printers are I believe the sharpest at > 1 picoliter. I was also going to suggest the pano head as a vital piece of great if you want to make really good looking larger prints. This can be a pretty big investment but IMO well worth it, this is what my head mounted on the tripod looks like. http://www.pbase.com/konascott/image/53561158
The idea of the head is that it rotates the camera around the nodal point of the lens which avoids parallax issue that otherwise can come up when shooting a number of short to be stitched together.
Stitching gives you two advantages over trying to get the photo in one shot, you can get a much wider angle view and you can get much higher resolution. This is an example of a very wide angle shot using the pano head http://www.pbase.com/konascott/image/61769435
This shot shows the kind of resolution you can easily get by stitching photos http://www.pbase.com/konascott/image/53085707/large To see the full resolution version hit original at the bottom of the photo.
Scott
Smokey - 01 Sep 2006 13:40 GMT > I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a > set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and > photo printers yet. I am biased, but can be objective, if I try. Take a look at Nikon DSLRs and lenses, and compare look, feel, and image quality before you decide. I have a D50, but if I had your budget, I might have gotten the D200, or waited a few months for the D80. As for lenses, Nikon makes a wide variety of high quality lenses in every category. They also sell some lesser quality lenses for those on a budget.
The Nikkor 70-200 VR f 2.8 is a great lens, and they have several nice wide-angle lenses.
Go to a GOOD camera store, see how each camera feels in your hands, and take a few shots.
Eric Babula - 01 Sep 2006 19:11 GMT > I am biased, but can be objective, if I try. Take a look at Nikon > DSLRs and lenses, and compare look, feel, and image quality before [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Go to a GOOD camera store, see how each camera feels in your hands, > and take a few shots. I am not biased toward Nikon (I have a Panasonic FZ5 - can't afford the dSLR, yet.), but I hear that the Nikon D200 is an incredible camera. I know someone who had a Nikon 8800 digicam, then upgraded to the Nikon D70. He just upgraded to the Nikon D200 and loves it. His primary use for this camera is to photograph high-value coins, so it's a bit different than what you intend to use your camera for. But, he likes the color saturation, wider AF range, great sharpness. On the downside, it's larger and heavier than the D70 (that might not be a downside for some).
If nothing else, at least check it out.
I hear the Nikon D80 has lots of potential, too. As does the Canon EOS 30D and the Canon EOS 400D.
I'm no expert by any means. I don't even have a dSLR. But, I figure I can put in my 2 cents anyway.
Check out reviews at: www.dpreview.com www.dcresource.com www.steves-digicams.com www.pcworld.com I'm sure there are other sources out there, too.
Good luck!
 Signature Eric Babula Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
wisdoms@gmail.com - 01 Sep 2006 14:10 GMT I don't know if I'm late, but my advice is the following: if you have experience or if you don't, but you want to manage a good camera, I'd suggest a Canon EOS 30D with these lenses: EF 17-40mm L f/4 (or 16-35mm, but more expensive) - so you can have fun in landscape and many other subjects - and EF 50mm f/1.4 for portraits and at night. Up to now this will cost you about 2400 then you can buy some useful tools as tripod, battery supply, cards and others as well. The EOS 400D (do you mean this?) will be of course a nice camera, but remember that Mpixels are not the only thing you must take in account, have a look here: http://bobatkins.com/photography/digital/canon_eos_30D_compared.html Futhermore the 400D wants to replace the 350D, therfore it allocates itself a step behind cameras as 20D, 30D and 5D. I hope that my advice will give you a positive hint on this topic. Best regards.
plastic_razor@yahoo.com ha scritto:
> I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a > set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and > photo printers yet. plastic_razor@yahoo.com - 01 Sep 2006 15:02 GMT > I don't know if I'm late, but my advice is the following: if you have > experience or if you don't, but you want to manage a good camera, I'd > suggest a Canon EOS 30D with these lenses: EF 17-40mm L f/4 (or > 16-35mm, but more expensive) - so you can have fun in landscape and > many other subjects - and EF 50mm f/1.4 for portraits and at night. Up I was actually considering both those lenses as well (EF 16-35mm L f/4, EF 50mm f/1.4). However, doesn't the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 lens do *both* their jobs without the hassle of constantly switching lenses? And with Image Stabilization too.
I was actually leaning heavily towards the 30D before last week's announcement of the upcoming 400D. Buit now the 400D is cheaper, *lighter*, has 10 megapixels, and also dust cleaning. Many of the disadvantages from the 350D were eliminated (7-pt autofocus, clumsy interface, small buffer). Meanwhile, the 30D's 5 fps burst mode doesn't seem particularly useful for people that don't do fast, live-action photography.
About the only things I find intriguing about the 30D is spot metering, and better performance at ISO 1600 and 3200. Both are seemingly useful features for low-light photography, which I intend to do... a lot. But will I be missing all that much? I get the feeling that shooting at ISO 1600 and 3200 is impractical, due to all the inevitable noise at those levels. Maybe I'm wrong. And I've read lots of people saying spot metering isn't quite as useful in the era of digital photography (ie histograms). Am I right about these assumptions?
ASAAR - 01 Sep 2006 15:21 GMT > I was actually considering both those lenses as well (EF 16-35mm L f/4, > EF 50mm f/1.4). However, doesn't the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 lens do *both* [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > announcement of the upcoming 400D. Buit now the 400D is cheaper, > *lighter*, has 10 megapixels, and also dust cleaning. I'd probably go for the 400D over the 30D, but as you already mentioned Nikon's D80 as a possibility, and that you're interested in low light photography, consider whether the D80's improved viewfinder would make it a better contender. It supposedly provides a larger and brighter image than those on most other DSLRs, only matched by top of the line DSLRs such as Canon's 1D line of cameras, and those are vastly more expensive and heavier.
wisdoms - 01 Sep 2006 15:43 GMT Of course the 400D seems a good camera, but personally I'd not enumerate it among the professional ones (even if I haven't used it yet... I'm sorry). As far as I experienced, 30D or 20D (maybe old) have producted very good results, you can have a look at some good guys on flickr.com to see there how these machines really work. Probably I would change my camera only for a 5D (full size, but somehow a bit slower), nothing else. I repeat once again, don not consider only 400D's 10Mpixels! :-) Consider that 30D has 1/3 step ISO sensitivity intervals, spot metering, magnesium alloy body, faster flash sync... This was written few days ago about 400D: "The increase in resolution is insignificant - well only significant for marketing purposes. Strange to think that when the 1Ds Mk I was at the top of the Canon range with 11Mp there was nothing like it."
Ok, maybe it's better to have a look at the forum, where it is comes from: http://www.ephotozine.com/forum/viewanswers.cfm?qid=38311 Anyway consider your needs, also the future ones!
Bill Funk - 01 Sep 2006 22:02 GMT >I was actually leaning heavily towards the 30D before last week's >announcement of the upcoming 400D. Buit now the 400D is cheaper, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >doesn't seem particularly useful for people that don't do fast, >live-action photography. I strongly suggest you go to a camera store, and handle the 30D and the 350D (the 400D will be close in size & weight). While you're handling the 350D, imagine it without the top LCD that gives you a lot of info on what the camera's setting are. Then imagine that you'll need to look at the rear LCD to see that information. To me, that's makes the 400D a no-buy. (I'm addicted to that top LCD.) As well, put a lens on both bodies, and see the difference the lighter body weight makes; some like it, it seems out of balance to me. The extra shots per second of the 30D may be worth more than you think; it makes candids easier, since you get several shots to choose from. This can be very helpful with shooting candids of kids. (I have the 30D)
Of course, with no investment in lenses to worry about, Nikon makes some very nice bodies, too, and they have some nice lenses. Or, so I've been told! :-)
 Signature Bill Funk replace "g" with "a"
Bill - 02 Sep 2006 02:22 GMT >> I don't know if I'm late, but my advice is the following: if you have >> experience or if you don't, but you want to manage a good camera, I'd [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >their jobs without the hassle of constantly switching lenses? And with >Image Stabilization too. You already mentioned an interest in the Canon 10-22, so I'm guessing you know you'll need that wide angle, so I'd go with the 24-70 instead of the 17-55 to cover the rest.
It's a bit bigger and heavier, but it would be worth it. But if you don't want the added size and weight, then the 17-55 would be a better "walk around" lense option.
>I was actually leaning heavily towards the 30D before last week's >announcement of the upcoming 400D. Buit now the 400D is cheaper, >*lighter*, has 10 megapixels, and also dust cleaning. Many of the >disadvantages from the 350D were eliminated (7-pt autofocus, clumsy >interface, small buffer). But two of the biggest factors that influence usability still remain, namely poor handling and no info panel.
The XT/350D has an info panel on the back, but the newer XTi/400D has removed it so they could squeeze in a larger LCD display. I don't like not having an info panel and prefer the top displays like the 30D and Nikon bodies.
The handling and ergonomics of the 350D/400D, while small and light, is often too small for many users to grip and use comfortably. If you handle any of the other Canon or Nikon DSLR models, you'll understand this.
I own the Canon XT/350D and I've used my friends' 20D and Nikon D70s a lot as well, and while I like my Canon, it has a lousy grip and control layout.
When I bought the XT, the smaller size and light weight was a bonus. But now that I'm more interested in carrying larger and better lenses, the slight savings in weight and size is of little interest to me. My next camera will definitely be one of the larger bodies.
>About the only things I find intriguing about the 30D is spot metering, >and better performance at ISO 1600 and 3200. Both are seemingly useful >features for low-light photography, which I intend to do... a lot. But >will I be missing all that much? Spot metering is very useful for some difficult lighting, but in low light it probably won't be an issue. Any of the Canon or Nikon bodies would be a good choice.
Since low light is a priority, I would wait to see the Nikon D80. It has the same viewfinder as the D200 which is bigger and brighter than the similarly priced Canon and low end Nikon models. That may prove to be very important in your shooting.
If you do decide on the Nikon D80 or even D200, for lenses I suggest you look at the Nikon 12-24 or 10.5 fisheye for wide angle (the fisheye can be easily corrected to rectilinear in Nikon Capture which makes it very fun lense to use).
For a walk around, I'd suggest the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 for low light. If you can get by with a smaller aperture for a walk around, consider the 18-70 or 18-200 VR lenses, the 18-70 being very well priced. Then perhaps add a 35 or 50 prime for low light.
No matter which path you take, there are lots of options and choices. You'll have to decide what your basic priorities are first, then build upon that.
carver(remove)33@bellsouth.net - 02 Sep 2006 11:30 GMT <snip>
>About the only things I find intriguing about the 30D is spot metering, >and better performance at ISO 1600 and 3200. Both are seemingly useful [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >spot metering isn't quite as useful in the era of digital photography >(ie histograms). Am I right about these assumptions? I suggest you go to Steves Digi-cams web site and check out the high iso samples for the 30D (as well as other cameras).
http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/30D_samples.html
The 30D is cleaner at iso 1600 than many other cameras at much lower isos, and 3200 is useable with a little noise reduction.
As has been mentioned elsewhere, the top lcd display is something I wouldn't want to give up.
Bill
plastic_razor@yahoo.com - 02 Sep 2006 16:07 GMT remove remove wrote:
> I suggest you go to Steves Digi-cams web site and check out the high > iso samples for the 30D (as well as other cameras). > > Bill Hmmm... I saw the high ISO samples for the 30D, and my newbie eyes didn't like them one bit :)
The samples looked excellent between ISO 100 and 400. At ISO 800 the noise is very pronounced but looks easily fixed in post processing. But at ISO 1600, the images are downright ugly. Could an image with *that* much noise still be used in producing high quality A4 prints? A3 prints?
This is the sample image from the 30D at ISO 1600: http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/30d/samples/IMG_8673.JPG
ISO 3200: http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/30d/samples/IMG_8674.JPG
carver(remove)33@bellsouth.net - 03 Sep 2006 12:31 GMT >remove remove wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >ISO 3200: >http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/30d/samples/IMG_8674.JPG Then I wish you best of luck finding something better in your price range.
Bill
burnsdavidj@yahoo.com - 01 Sep 2006 14:38 GMT > Right now I'm thinking of getting the latest Digital Rebel (XTi), the > only wide-angle lens available for it (EF-S 10-22mm), and the best [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and > photo printers yet. You can assume that Nikon has a decent comparable setup, but I'm not as familiar with their lineup so someone else can make suggestions.
Olympus, Pentax, and Sony are in it for the long haul; I'd give Sony marks for coming out with a solid offering based on the KM mount and lenses. Since you're not heavily into sports or bird shooting, your telephoto demands are not heavy and all three other camera systems have good wide/short/medium lenses.
I can make some suggestions for Canon: - The 400D looks to be a good camera. I have a 350D and have no desire to replace it anytime soon. However, you might want to consider a 30D vs the 400D as you get 'more camera' in a better body. I'd buy a 30D today if I was starting from scratch. - I suggest you can save money by avoiding the 17-55IS. The IS isn't nearly as helpful on the wider angles, and you can get a good 2.8 Tamron 17-50 for a fraction of the price. I shoot a 17-40L f/4, and the colour is _great_ for landscapes. I've heard good things about the Tamron 28-74(hope i got that right) f/2.8, but its not as wide. - Get some primes. Most people consider the 50mm 1.8 a great bargain, and 'good enough' not to bother upgrading to the 1.4. The 85mm 1.8 is a good bargain too, great for portraits. - The 10-22mm is a good choice, i don't have it but its a good ultrawide for an EFS mount. - For slightly longer reach, I highly recommend the 70-200L f/4. Its among the cheapest Ls, and is a good introduction to the high-end lense series. We've had discussions here about the 70-300IS as well, since its black (more discreet), a bit cheaper and comes with IS. Also worth considering.
Finally, Canon's f/1.2 85L and f/2 135L are expensive, but considered among the best 35mm lenses available. If you want a 'holy grail' to consider, look at these.
carver(remove)33@bellsouth.net - 01 Sep 2006 19:45 GMT >I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a >set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and >photo printers yet. I'd suggest the Canon 30D. Somewhat heavier than the Rebel, but more robust as well. I researched and looked at a LOT of sample pictures before settling on the 30D. It was the best for low light natural photography, which was a prime consideration for me.
I use the 28-135 IS lens for a walking around lens and am quite happy with it, but it is probable a bit long for landscapes. Remember that the Canon dslrs hava a 1.6 crop factor, so you'll want a pretty short lens. Despite the talk, the kit lens isn't too bad at all, but with your budget, you should be able to go with something a little better.
HTH Bill
JC Dill - 01 Sep 2006 19:46 GMT >I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a >set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >lens with Digital Rebel is maxed at 55mm, so maybe it's not such a big >deal to work under the same restrictions? I suggest you consider Canon's 24-70 F 2.8 L lens (rather than the 17-55) together with the 10-22 lens. IMHO this 24-70 is a "20 year lens" - you will use it for 20 years or more, on several bodies (that you will upgrade as newer/better/faster bodies become available). (I'm in the process of buying one of these lenses myself after borrowing it from a friend several times.) I strongly feel that getting top quality glass is more important than getting the latest body. If you need to save some money somewhere to stay within your budget, consider buying an older body (new or refurbished) in order to put other money in good glass.
If you are anywhere near a pro store that rents DSLR cameras, try renting a similar kit (they probably won't have the 400d, but they will have a 10d or similar) with a few of the lenses you are considering. I found that it really helped to use the camera and lenses for a weekend to see what I could and couldn't live without.
~3 years ago I rented a 1D with the 70-200 lens before I decided to buy. My first purchases were a 300D with the kit lens and a used Canon 75-300 zoom. Then I shopped for a used Canon 70-200 f2.8 IS. When I bought the 70-200 the 75-300 got boxed up as a "backup lens" and hasn't been out of the box since. Meanwhile, I've upgraded the body to a 1D MarkII, and I'm purchasing the 24-70 from my friend. (Both the body and lens were/are being purchased from a friend who has upgraded to the IIN and now uses a 24-105 instead of the 24-70.)
jc
 Signature "The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA
Tom - 02 Sep 2006 01:54 GMT >... and photo printers yet. > Others are speaking to bodies and lenses...be sure to make room for a 13x19 printer (which Epson, folks?), 1st supply of paper (13x19, 11x14, 11x17, etc...maybe $200), spare battery ($50ish?), two, maybe three 1gb cards (~$100 total), a good bag, and buy insurance - see your home owners agent.
Past threads have been very particular about which tripods are good (a few) and which are junk (most). Don't forget your starter strobe too - almost a $1000 in extras, assuming the printer is $400-500ish - yes?
grateful lurker - 02 Sep 2006 04:44 GMT If you start talking printers, then how about CPU with at least 2Gb ram, lots 'o HD space, a decent monitor, and CS2. Lots of money there--but he's going to need it. I don't mean to sound like a dick, but he only ask about a dSLR and set of lenses. So let's stick to that--can always get photos printed up professionally.
I must agree, however,with spare battery, memory cards, etc. And definitely invest 300-400 in a good tripod and 100-150 for a decent ball head for all those low light level situations, plus for landscape, historical landmarks, skyscrapers and all the other shots of non-moving objects. You want to get crystal-clear 12x18 prints from an 8 or 10 megapixel camera, then USE A GOOD TRIPOD (not shouting, just emphasizing).
Ray Fischer - 03 Sep 2006 19:17 GMT >I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a >set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >lens with Digital Rebel is maxed at 55mm, so maybe it's not such a big >deal to work under the same restrictions? What I did: Buy the camera with the kit lens, try it out for a few months. Then go through your photos and see what kind of focal length you use. I discovered a lot of wide-angle shots so I got the 17-40mm. I have a telephoto as well but went for a cheaper one of those.
Tripod and some software will be essential and a cable release as well. Something like Photoshop Elements and iView Media Pro. And backup software to store all those photos.
It's been my experience that low-light isn't often a hand-held proposition, and when it might be f2.8 isn't fast enough, so I use a 50mm f1.8.
 Signature Ray Fischer rfischer@sonic.net
Noel Stoutenburg - 04 Sep 2006 02:08 GMT > I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a > set of lenses. <...snippage...>
> Right now I'm thinking of getting the latest Digital Rebel (XTi), the > only wide-angle lens available for it (EF-S 10-22mm), and the best [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and > photo printers yet. OK. The list of what I intend to do with my new camera (which I've had for a month) is almost a duplicate of what you intend to do. Here's what I did so far:
1) Purchased a dslr camera kit with one lens, in the 35 to 55mm range;
2) Purchased two digital filters; a UV filter, which you will install on the camera and leave more or less semi-permanently to protect the lens, and a polarizing filter;
3) Purchased an extra battery for the camera;
4) Purchased two memory cards; [I chose two 1 GB cards]
5) Download and install GIMP and the supporting GTK and other files;
6) Purchased a good tripod (go to a pro camera shop, not a box store);
7) Purchased a memory card reader for my computer, since none of the machines I have happened to have one.
Since I bought a new Minolta 5D, which because KM has exited the camera business, had quite an attractive price point, the above list, plus two books [Timacheff and Karlins, _Total Digital Photography_. Wiley 2005, and Akkana Peck; _Beginning Gimp / From Novice to Professional_, APress, 2006.] has cost me about 1000.00. If I had bought a different kit, it might have cost me a couple of hundred more.
When I have become proficient with my camera and lens, and come up with a particular problem I just cannot solve with my present hardware, (and software) then and only then will I go buy the new hardware that meets the need I am trying to address.
Now, if I were you, I would put the other 2000.00 in the bank, and start taking pictures. In my opinion it will be more productive to become very familiar with the camera and one lens and I'd learn that well. If for some reason, then, you decide that you have chosen the wrong camera system, you won't take as big a financial hit if you sell your camera body and lens, and replace it, as it would if you invest in a couple more lenses at the beginning. And every once in a while, I'd take some of the interest from the 2000 banked, and a particularly fine image you have captured and processed, and get it framed, and present it to your wife.
ns
plastic_razor@yahoo.com - 04 Sep 2006 12:00 GMT > 2) Purchased two digital filters; a UV filter, which you will install > on the camera and leave more or less semi-permanently to protect the > lens, and a polarizing filter; Hmmm... I never thought about that. Would a UV filter be a necessity to protect my lens? I'll soon be spending a lot of time in Arizona where the sun can be intense during summer time.
> 7) Purchased a memory card reader for my computer, since none of the > machines I have happened to have one. Isn't it simpler to just hook up the camera to your PC via the USB cable? Just about all new multimedia electronics these days have USB 2.0 connection. That's how I've been hooking up my P&S camera. I never did understand why anybody would need a memory card reader.
Greg "_" - 04 Sep 2006 13:47 GMT > I never did understand why anybody would need a memory card reader. They tend to be faster, & don't tie up the camera and battery power to transfer the pictures.
 Signature Reality-Is finding that perfect picture and never looking back.
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Noel Stoutenburg - 04 Sep 2006 14:32 GMT >> 2) Purchased two digital filters; a UV filter, which you will install >> on the camera and leave more or less semi-permanently to protect the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > to protect my lens? I'll soon be spending a lot of time in Arizona > where the sun can be intense during summer time. Yes, In my opinion, but not necessarily to protect the lens from UV light. If you are in Arizona, taking pictures in the desert, and it's a little windy, any airborne sand particles would etch the UV filter, which costs a few tens of dollars to replace, instead of the lens itself. Similarly, if you accidentally touch the glass, the filter is easily removed and replaced, and there is no damage to the lens. I consider the effects the UV filter has on the image a bonus.
ns
Greg "_" - 04 Sep 2006 22:52 GMT > >> 2) Purchased two digital filters; a UV filter, which you will install > >> on the camera and leave more or less semi-permanently to protect the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > ns Geeze you replace the filter if you touch it?
 Signature Reality-Is finding that perfect picture and never looking back.
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Noel Stoutenburg - 05 Sep 2006 07:13 GMT To my comment
>> Similarly, if you accidentally touch the glass, the filter is >> easily removed and replaced, and there is no damage to the lens. I >> consider the effects the UV filter has on the image a bonus. Greg wrote:
> Geeze you replace the filter if you touch it? Not as a normal matter of course. However, a friend owns a lens he bought at a garage sale which has a visible, and indelible fingerprint on the front of the lens glass. I no longer remember the precise specs, but I expect it cost big bucks. If the owner at the time the finger touched the front of the lens had thought to put a UV filter on the lens, the fingerprint might have ruined a filter worth a fraction of the cost of the lens.
ns
Paul Rubin - 05 Sep 2006 07:17 GMT > Not as a normal matter of course. However, a friend owns a lens he > bought at a garage sale which has a visible, and indelible fingerprint [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the lens, the fingerprint might have ruined a filter worth a fraction > of the cost of the lens. Why do you think either the lens or the filter would be ruined by a fingerprint on the front? Have you seen photos shot through the lens with the fingerprint? Does the fingerprint show up in them?
ian - 05 Sep 2006 14:48 GMT >> Why do you think either the lens or the filter would be ruined by a > fingerprint on the front? Have you seen photos shot through the lens > with the fingerprint? Does the fingerprint show up in them? not unless it can focus up to 1mm or less. But you would get an area of low definition and possible colour aberration on the corresponding area of the photo.
Noel Stoutenburg - 05 Sep 2006 19:34 GMT Friends:
My comment
>> Not as a normal matter of course. However, a friend owns a lens he >> bought at a garage sale which has a visible, and indelible fingerprint [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> the lens, the fingerprint might have ruined a filter worth a fraction >> of the cost of the lens. prompted Paul to write, asking:
> Why do you think either the lens or the filter would be ruined by a > fingerprint on the front? I think the lens was coated, and the that the fingerprint is visible on the front surface of the lens because of a chemical reaction with the coating. "Ruined" may be a poor choice of words, given the subjective nature of the art of composing photographic images, there may indeed be times when whatever effect the fingerprint has on the image adds some valuable characteristic to the image. Still, ordinary cleaning methods will not remove the fingerprint, and my point is still, that if there had been a UV filter on the lens, so that the fingerprint was on the filter, restoring the lens to original condition is simpler and cheaper than when the fingerprint is on the surface of the front element of the lens.
ns
AaronW - 06 Sep 2006 23:17 GMT > I've decided to take the plunge and purchase a dSLR camera body and a > set of lenses. This is just strictly for hobby, although a serious [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > lens with Digital Rebel is maxed at 55mm, so maybe it's not such a big > deal to work under the same restrictions? A tele lens would let you shoot candid at a distance, without people noticing you: 70-300/4-5.6 IS.
And add a 50/1.8. It is more than 1 stop brighter than f/2.8 zooms. If you like it, when you want low light tele lens, add an 85/1.8 and/or 135/2.
If you are not sure that you need 17-55/2.8 IS, you can start with 28-135/3.5-5.6 IS, if you have 50/1.8 for low light and another wide angle lens. Even if you get 17-55/2.8 IS later, 28-135/3.5-5.6 IS is still useful since it covers a different range.
> I don't know if the equipment I listed is good enough for what I want > to do. I'm certainly open to suggestions on how to get started. I > haven't even had time to look at Nikon cameras, 3rd party lenses, and > photo printers yet. Nikon has a sharp 55-200/4-5.6, no VR though. I wish Canon makes a 45-135/3.5-4.5 IS in response.
http://digitcamera.tripod.com/#slr
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