Canon 10-22 - flash

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jazu - 08 May 2008 14:28 GMT

I made some interior shots. Looks like this lens needs external flash. Lens
is so big that produce shadow when usind internal flash.
Another bucks to spend:)

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Dev/Null - 08 May 2008 14:59 GMT

>I made some interior shots. Looks like this lens needs external flash. Lens
>is so big that produce shadow when usind internal flash.
> Another bucks to spend:)

Neither the 430EX or the 580EX will cover a lens that wide. Most pros
shooting interiors don't use on camera flash, nor built-in flash.

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jazu - 08 May 2008 15:02 GMT

>>I made some interior shots. Looks like this lens needs external flash.
>>Lens is so big that produce shadow when usind internal flash.
>> Another bucks to spend:)
>>
> Neither the 430EX or the 580EX will cover a lens that wide. Most pros
> shooting interiors don't use on camera flash, nor built-in flash.

I think I will have to work on that:)

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jazu - 08 May 2008 15:07 GMT

> Neither the 430EX or the 580EX will cover a lens that wide.

How about bouncing flash from the ceiling?

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Markus Fuenfrocken - 08 May 2008 15:44 GMT

> How about bouncing flash from the ceiling?

Could work, but depending on the focal length you´re using it´s likely that
you will see the light spot on the ceiling in your pictures. You better
depend on available light, use proper lightning equipment (what´s what i
would recommend if you´re planning to go commercial with that type of photos
anyway) or try to bounce the flash backwards behind you on a reflector or
try a lightsphere or something like this ...

Markus

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Stefan Patric - 08 May 2008 17:31 GMT

A Sto-Fen diffuser on the flash will provide ample coverage. It even
works with a full-frame fisheye. Plus, it reduces the harshness of
direct flash.

As a pro, I do a lot of interiors with on-camera flash, but they are more
for documentation than to send to Architectural Digest. Instead of it
taking me and two assistants 2 hours per shot using off-camera lights
(flash or hots), I, just myself alone with a single camera with one
flash, can photograph an entire home or office, etc. in 30 minutes, and
provide the client with what he needs at an inexpensive price. It's not
the glamorous type of photography you see in the movies, but it pays the
bills. It's called Bread-and-Butter work.

Stef

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TRoss - 08 May 2008 18:59 GMT

>>>I made some interior shots. Looks like this lens needs external flash.
>>>Lens is so big that produce shadow when usind internal flash.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>works with a full-frame fisheye. Plus, it reduces the harshness of
>direct flash.

Now you've done it. It's been almost a year since Rita has shown the
Thong....

TR

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user@domain.invalid - 08 May 2008 19:15 GMT

> A Sto-Fen diffuser on the flash will provide ample coverage. It even
> works with a full-frame fisheye. Plus, it reduces the harshness of
> direct flash.

Will it do it with the built-in flash on a 30D? I would have thought
one would need to get the diffuser farther forward to get coverage with
a 10 mm focal length lens, without a shadow. That should be doable,
however.

Doug McDonald

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Stefan Patric - 09 May 2008 18:20 GMT

On Thu, 08 May 2008 13:15:28 -0500, user wrote:

>> A Sto-Fen diffuser on the flash will provide ample coverage. It even
>> works with a full-frame fisheye. Plus, it reduces the harshness of
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> would need to get the diffuser farther forward to get coverage with a 10
> mm focal length lens, without a shadow. That should be doable, however.

I don't know. Never have used the built-in flash. Sto-Fen does make a
gadget that works with a built-in flash, but consider this: that flash
isn't all that powerful to being with, and increasing the angle of
coverage to cover the 10-22 will halve the guide number at least. Just
get an shoe mount flash for your camera of reasonable power--GN at least
110 (65 degree angle of coverage) for EI 100--and the appropriate Sto-
Fen, and you're set.

http://www.stofen.com/

You don't have to worry about the shadow of the lens with a shoe mounted
flash showing in the shot. It is projected more downward than outward.
Just do a test with the built-in flash without a diffuser with the
10-22. If you see the shadow of the lens, then even with a diffuser, it
will still be there.

Stef

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David J. Littleboy - 13 May 2008 02:00 GMT

This is incorrect. On the 300D with the 10-22 at 10mm, the 430EX covers the
whole field with no problem, although you do have to flip out the built-in
diffuser that makes it cover a 14mm _equivalent_ angle of view. (10mm is a
16mm equiv. AOV, so there's no problem, and the 430 is plenty high enough so
that there's no shadow thrown into the image area, even with the hood on the
10-20.)

>Most pros shooting interiors don't use on camera flash, nor built-in flash.

This is, I suspect, correct. Using flash with that wide a lens means that
things that are close (the nearby parts of the walls, floors and ceilings)
are way overexposed relative to stuff on the other side of the room, so it's
not optimal. Using bounce flash helps, but the same problem still happens.

The house I grew up in is about to be sold, and since it's still in very
similar condition to those days (1960s) I need to do a seriously good job
documenting it before some rich lawyer with an architect in tow guts it and
turns it into a modern monstrosity.

(I pulled the 300D + 10-22 out of the attic and tested, so the above stuff
really is correct.)

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan

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Paul J Gans - 13 May 2008 18:02 GMT

>>>I made some interior shots. Looks like this lens needs external flash.
>>>Lens is so big that produce shadow when usind internal flash.
>>> Another bucks to spend:)
>>>
>> Neither the 430EX or the 580EX will cover a lens that wide.

>This is incorrect. On the 300D with the 10-22 at 10mm, the 430EX covers the
>whole field with no problem, although you do have to flip out the built-in
>diffuser that makes it cover a 14mm _equivalent_ angle of view. (10mm is a
>16mm equiv. AOV, so there's no problem, and the 430 is plenty high enough so
>that there's no shadow thrown into the image area, even with the hood on the
>10-20.)

>>Most pros shooting interiors don't use on camera flash, nor built-in flash.

>This is, I suspect, correct. Using flash with that wide a lens means that
>things that are close (the nearby parts of the walls, floors and ceilings)
>are way overexposed relative to stuff on the other side of the room, so it's
>not optimal. Using bounce flash helps, but the same problem still happens.

>The house I grew up in is about to be sold, and since it's still in very
>similar condition to those days (1960s) I need to do a seriously good job
>documenting it before some rich lawyer with an architect in tow guts it and
>turns it into a modern monstrosity.

>(I pulled the 300D + 10-22 out of the attic and tested, so the above stuff
>really is correct.)

Yup. Physics still works.

Signature

--- Paul J. Gans

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