Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / March 2005
[Phot - 7D] - white on white
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Alan Browne - 19 Mar 2005 23:18 GMT http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg
In difuse shaddow with a low sun getting at some parts of the snow. Sky was cloudless.
Cheers, Alan
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Scott W - 20 Mar 2005 06:37 GMT > http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin > -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. Hey Alan,
Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
Scott
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 16:36 GMT > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? Thanks. It has its positives, such as that image. Exposure is still not going as I expect, but at least I don't have to wait a day for the film to come back.
I shot another pair of images. One that pleases me, but has a major area of blow out. One that is exposed perfectly, but loses its visual impact... oh, hell I'll post them, hang on a second...
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0966S.jpg looks better overall to me, but the snow is blown out on the log.
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0967S.jpg doesn't blow out, but overall is a bit dreary looking.
Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes.
Cheers, Alan
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Scott W - 20 Mar 2005 16:48 GMT > > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? > > Thanks. It has its positives, such as that image. Exposure is still
> not going as I expect, but at least I don't have to wait a day for the > film to come back. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes. I like the second one much better, you might try printing it, often a photo that does not look great on the screen will look surprisingly good in a print.
It would be very easy to edit the second photo bring up the brightness over all but keeping the one area from blowing out.
Are you shooting raw? Shooting raw should extend you latitude by a noticeable amount, you still have to have care about the highlights but not as much.
It takes a while to get used to shooting digital, it is not like shooting negatives at all, with film I found it almost impossible to expose so much that I lost the highlights, but very easy to loose detail in the shadows, with digital it is just the opposite, very easy to blow out the highlights but easy to get good detail in the shadows.
At this point if I where to go back to shooting film I would have to retrain myself as to how to expose correctly.
Your photos are looking very good, I don't think you are going to have much problems with learning how to get the most out of your new camera, have fun.
Scott
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 17:07 GMT > I like the second one much better, you might try printing it, often a > photo that does not look great on the screen will look surprisingly [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > noticeable amount, you still have to have care about the highlights but > not as much. I am shooting RAW as well as JPG. (Which means these JPG' photos are slightly compressed). OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. I haven't explored this fully yet.
> It takes a while to get used to shooting digital, it is not like > shooting negatives at all, with film I found it almost impossible to > expose so much that I lost the highlights, but very easy to loose > detail in the shadows, with digital it is just the opposite, very easy > to blow out the highlights but easy to get good detail in the shadows. I'm used to shooting slide which has a narrow lattitude. While digital behaves similarly in may respects, it is different.
> At this point if I where to go back to shooting film I would have to > retrain myself as to how to expose correctly. > > Your photos are looking very good, I don't think you are going to > have much problems with learning how to get the most out of your new > camera, have fun. fun? Oh yeah!! Thanks for your comments/suggestions.
Cheers, Alan
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Scott W - 20 Mar 2005 17:40 GMT > I am shooting RAW as well as JPG. (Which means these JPG' photos are
> slightly compressed). OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. > I haven't explored this fully yet. Elements 3.0 will work with 16 bits/color, With some limits, like no layers.
Scott
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 18:02 GMT > Elements 3.0 will work with 16 bits/color, With some limits, like no > layers. Sorry, I meant 2.0 above (which I have), not 3.0. I'm waitng for the local "Bureau en Gros" (Staples) to get its E 3.0's in (english version). I don't use layers very much, so no prob.
Further, the RAW plugin for the 7D is supposedly better in E 3.0 than the Monolta supplied version.
Cheers, Alan
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Ed Ruf - 20 Mar 2005 17:46 GMT >I am shooting RAW as well as JPG. (Which means these JPG' photos are >slightly compressed). OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. > I haven't explored this fully yet. ??? http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopelwin/newfeatures.html#nf6 ---------- Ed Ruf Lifetime AMA# 344007 (Usenet@EdwardG.Ruf.com) See images taken with my CP-990/5700 & D70 at http://edwardgruf.com/Digital_Photography/General/index.html
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 18:03 GMT >>I am shooting RAW as well as JPG. (Which means these JPG' photos are >>slightly compressed). OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. >> I haven't explored this fully yet. > > ??? http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopelwin/newfeatures.html#nf6 Sorry, I meant 2.0 (which I have). I'm waiting for 3.0 (english) at the local store.
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ian lincoln - 21 Mar 2005 00:55 GMT >> I like the second one much better, you might try printing it, often a >> photo that does not look great on the screen will look surprisingly [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > slightly compressed). OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. I > haven't explored this fully yet. Did you get elements 3.0 included with the camera?
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:02 GMT > "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message
>>I am shooting RAW as well as JPG. (Which means these JPG' photos are >>slightly compressed). OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. I >>haven't explored this fully yet. > > Did you get elements 3.0 included with the camera? No. I have elements 2.0 (came with scanner). Above I meant E 2.0, not 3.0).
Cheers, Alan
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RSD99 - 20 Mar 2005 20:38 GMT FWIW: A Contrast Mask would probably do either (or both) of those images a *lot* of "good."
> > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin > -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. ThomasH - 20 Mar 2005 21:00 GMT > > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes. Indeed, and this makes the Fuji S3 so promising with their larger dynamic range through 14bit per pixel. I often prefer to underexpose scenes with bright details to prevent this so typical "all max. white spot" on the image. Later the image can be brightened by applying some gamma adjustment, what provides satisfactory results and yet preserves some texture in highlights.
The magnificent image of the birch bark shows a different problem with the blue cast on snow, but here film might have the same issue. It is sometimes not easy to make the snow appear pure white, as our brain want us to believe it is! However, I love this gentle blue in your image!
Thomas
> Cheers, > Alan [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin > -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 23:10 GMT >>Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > The magnificent image of the birch bark shows a different > problem with the blue cast on snow, but here film might have This is a point of discussion. Walking in the woods (again today) under a brillant blue sky one can't help notice that the shaddows are blue. The soft shaddows even have darker blue shaddows in them.
AFAIAC the blue is natural and should remain. Unless it is a person in the shot, then I'd slap on Mr. 81A.
I agree about he S3, but I don't have Nikon lenses...
> the same issue. It is sometimes not easy to make the snow > appear pure white, as our brain want us to believe it is! If you shoot in the sunlight on slide film (say Sensia, EliteChrome 100 or E100S), the shaddows will be blue and the whites will be dazzling white. (Like in the two shots above... the white is white and the shaddows in the back are blue).
> However, I love this gentle blue in your image! Thanks.
It's all natural (I did poke the red in birchbark shot a tad). In soft shaddow areas there will even be hard shaddow areas that are a deeper blue. This is the same on film. I'll post a couple in the coming day or so.
I should have elements 3.0
Cheers, Alan.
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Patrick - 20 Mar 2005 22:17 GMT > > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Cheers, > Alan You have to lift the shadows in PhotoShop and underexpose a little so as to not blow things out, as in your second example. It's part of the digital thing.
One thing I find about digital is that shadow detail is better, or at least the detail is recoverable in PhotoShop.
Patrick
Colin D - 20 Mar 2005 22:55 GMT > > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Cheers, > Alan Hello Alan, In the interests of defending digital photography {:-), I took the liberty of downloading your second shot and running it through Elements 3 to see what shadow detail was lurking in the black depths of your image.
Here is the result:
http://www.pbase.com/colin_d/inbox
Let's see slide film do that.
regards, Colin.
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 23:39 GMT >>>Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? >> [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > http://www.pbase.com/colin_d/inbox Thanks for the effort. The noise is kinda sucky (I realize you probably did this a bit quickly, there's that artificial looking line on top edge of the log). I agree slide film can't do that, but that same image has a RAW version spinning here so when I get E 3.0 this week we'll begin digging in the shaddows...
Cheers, Alan.
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ian lincoln - 21 Mar 2005 00:54 GMT >> Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world? > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes. a tripod and a knowledge of varying opacity in layers comes in handy at this point. I know someone who does this often to make sure he gets the right shot.
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 18:31 GMT how are you liking being in the digital world?
Here's another from Thur. 300mm f/2.8 + 1.4TC . Cropped. A bit soft. From my kitchen across into my back neighbors yard. There were gusts of wind at the time so it took several shots to get a reasonably sharp one and exposure had to be bracketed. (Or I could have run out there with an incident meter).
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg
Cheers, Alan
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Bob Hickey - 21 Mar 2005 22:52 GMT > how are you liking being in the digital world? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > one and exposure had to be bracketed. (Or I could have run out there > with an incident meter). http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg
> Cheers, > Alan > -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm > -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm > -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin > -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. Ten years from now, that shot will still look good on the wall. Teriffic. Bob Hickey
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 23:10 GMT > "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg
> Ten years from now, that shot will still look good on the wall. Teriffic. > Bob Hickey Thanks, I'm not that happy with it. I just got back a slide version, should have it scanned shortly. We'll see.
Cheers, Alan
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Ben Rosengart - 21 Mar 2005 23:27 GMT >> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg >> >> Ten years from now, that shot will still look good on the wall. Teriffic. > > Thanks, I'm not that happy with it. Why not?
 Signature Ben Rosengart (212) 741-4400 x215
I rather like it.
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 23:38 GMT >>Thanks, I'm not that happy with it. > > Why not? Not sharp enough. 300 mm + 1.4 TC + low shutter speed plus slight wind movement... just not as tack sharp as I'd like. The above is a crop, to boot...
Cheers, Alan
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Scott W - 22 Mar 2005 07:50 GMT > > "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks, I'm not that happy with it. I just got back a slide version,
> should have it scanned shortly. We'll see. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin > -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. You are going to to post the scan of the slide, right?
Scott
ian lincoln - 22 Mar 2005 12:24 GMT >> > "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> Cheers, >> Alan erm you shot with a normal camera too or did you have a slide made from the file and are now scanning it?
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 15:25 GMT > erm you shot with a normal camera too or did you have a slide made from the > file and are now scanning it? I shot it on film as well as DSLR.
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Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 15:20 GMT > You are going to to post the scan of the slide, right? Maybe. The slide looks fine. THe scan is not so hot. I have to work it again. I'm not inspired.
Cheers, Alan
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ian lincoln - 22 Mar 2005 19:47 GMT >> You are going to to post the scan of the slide, right? > > Maybe. The slide looks fine. THe scan is not so hot. I have to work it > again. I'm not inspired. chalk one up for dslrs :)
Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:15 GMT > http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and shadow, would give that picture a very Zen feel...just a suggestion from a tyro....
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 21:25 GMT > Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the > frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and > shadow, would give that picture a very Zen feel...just a suggestion > from a tyro.... It was posted for other reasons. It's not that good a shot for various reasons.
You want zen ...
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg
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Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:27 GMT >> Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the >> frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > It was posted for other reasons. It's not that good a shot for > various reasons. I know; that was just an initial impression I just thought I'd throw in!
Owamanga - 22 Mar 2005 21:33 GMT >> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg > >Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the >frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and >shadow, would give that picture a very Zen feel...just a suggestion >from a tyro.... Confucius say: F*ck Zen, that's just a load of cold pebbles.
To improve the image further, also dump the part of the twig that exits stage-right, and photoshop some little jet thruster flames under the others to give it an outer-space feel.
Try *that* with film, you'll just burn your fingers.
-- Owamanga! http://www.pbase.com/owamanga
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 19:23 GMT http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
Cheers, Alan
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Ken Ellis - 21 Mar 2005 02:17 GMT >http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg > >Cheers, >Alan Pretty nice. Good detail and sharpness. Crisp.
Can you turn off the in - cam As? Does it make a difference when you use a tripod? I know with the in-lens is of the canon lense - it tells ya to turn of the is when on a tripod. Nice though to have all your lenses is now.
Rgds
Ken
Bob Harrington - 21 Mar 2005 03:51 GMT >> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > ya to turn of the is when on a tripod. Nice though to have all > your lenses is now. The 7D does have a switch for the AS, and the manual advises it be turned off when a tripod is used. I occasionally forget with my 7D - in that case, the AS will sometimes do a little searching which results in a slightly blurred image.
Bob ^,,^
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:44 GMT >>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg >>> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > that case, the AS will sometimes do a little searching which results in > a slightly blurred image. Really? I would have thought that on a tripod the out-of-bandwidth shake would cause the AS to do nothing at all.
The manual says to turn it off, but does not specify why. It may be just to save batteries.
I'll test this later on (for blur when on and tripod mounted).
Cheers, Alan.
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Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:13 GMT >>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg >> >>Cheers, >>Alan > > Pretty nice. Good detail and sharpness. Crisp. Thanks, the full size is great (detail, etc).
> Can you turn off the in - cam As? Does it make a difference when you AS is a switch on the back of the camera. There is a viewfinder indicator as well.
> use a tripod? I know with the in-lens is of the canon lense - it tells I've used in on tripod. I suspect it measures a very low freq/low amplitude shake and just does not activate the A-S at all.
Cheers, Alan
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Ken Ellis - 21 Mar 2005 21:40 GMT >>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg >>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >Cheers, >Alan cool ken
Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:21 GMT > http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg In this one, the blueness of the snow is nicely balanced by the warmer grays and browns of the tree (compared to the twirl-of-birchbark image, where the blue seems almost distracting to me).
I guess this is the first time I've commented, in this group, on posted pictures...but snow tends to inspire me!
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 21:26 GMT >>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I guess this is the first time I've commented, in this group, on > posted pictures...but snow tends to inspire me! Well it's (finally) beginning to melt here...
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Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:38 GMT >> ...but snow tends to inspire me! > > Well it's (finally) beginning to melt here... I live in the mountains of western NC; we didn't get nearly enough this year to suit this former Florida boy! This is about the best shot I got for the season:
http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict ure=66
Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 00:16 GMT >>>...but snow tends to inspire me! >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict ure=66 I was more taken with: http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict ure=49 (Note the blue tone).
Some of your outdoor shots seem underexposed and muddy.
I like a lot of your compoisitions. Good eye.
Cheers, Alan
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Greg Evans - 23 Mar 2005 16:01 GMT > I was more taken with: > http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict ure=49 > (Note the blue tone). On that one the blue tone seemed more appropriate, especially against the brown rocks. However, I did have to adjust the color temp of the RAW image to keep the rocks from having too much of a blue cast as well.
> Some of your outdoor shots seem underexposed and muddy. The computer/monitor I use to work on images makes these shots look cleaner and more vivid, much as I originally intended; on many other monitors they turn out as you say. I think part of that has to do with the difference in native display color-temp/gamma between Mac and Windows systems (not to mention between CRTs and LCDs). Oddly, my production monitor matches final printed output much more closely, so I don't want to tweak the color management too much at this point - unless there's a way to get both print AND web images to show properly.
The other thing I've begun to notice is that there's a reason that wide-angle adapter was so inexpensive....
> I like a lot of your compositions. Good eye. Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 16:27 GMT > The computer/monitor I use to work on images makes these shots look > cleaner and more vivid, much as I originally intended; on many other [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > unless there's a way to get both print AND web images to show > properly. This is the area where a lot of problems occur in showing images. I just uploaded the latest version of the birch bark on snow image for printing at a local store. I'll see what happens to it along the way. I specified no changes to color.
The PC "standard" gamma is 2.2. For Mac's it's 1.8.
If you have the bandwidth... http://www.creativemac.com/2001/05_may/tutorials/totalphotoshop609/totalphotosho p609-popup1.htm It illustrates well how a Mac image will appear on a Windows screen.
I love the last sentence he utters!
Cheers, Alan
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Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 17:09 GMT >>I was more taken with: >>http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict ure=49 >>(Note the blue tone). > > On that one the blue tone seemed more appropriate, especially against On another note, this is what I meant by shaddows on soft shaddows: (Not a very good photo, but illustrates the point).
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0951S.jpg
Cheers, Alan
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Greg Evans - 23 Mar 2005 21:39 GMT > On another note, this is what I meant by shaddows on soft shaddows: > (Not a very good photo, but illustrates the point). > http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0951S.jpg Yes, and I also note the tree trunks look a bit bluish as well. That's the kind of thing I usually end up compensating for by warming things up just a bit (or at least reducing the blue somewhat without producing noticable yellow). My goal would be to reduce the blue cast on the tree trunks to produce a more "expected" gray or gray/brown tone, and making the shadows less obviously blue without making the rest of the snow turn off-white.
I don't know why I've gone to as much effort as I have to describe my take on post-processing. It's not like I consider it necessary to convince you, because you obviously know what the hell you're doing better than I do! To me this boils down to a personal artistic philosophy - do I leave the shadows technically-accurate blue, or revise the image to match my mind's-eye impression more closely? I find such questions, and individuals' takes on them, very interesting, but I haven't seen much discussion of this aspect of the photographic process...perhaps the equipment newsgroups aren't the right place for that, it just now occurs to me....
Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 22:36 GMT > ...because you obviously know what the hell you're doing > better than I do! er, don't count on it!
Cheers, Alan
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ian lincoln - 24 Mar 2005 00:12 GMT >> ...because you obviously know what the hell you're doing better than I >> do! [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Cheers, > Alan there is also the matter of whether or not you fit filters to your digital camera or adjust it afterwards. perhaps even in camera custom white balance.
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 21:43 GMT >>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg > > In this one, the blueness of the snow is nicely balanced by the warmer > grays and browns of the tree (compared to the twirl-of-birchbark > image, where the blue seems almost distracting to me). It did strike me as very blue at first. But if you spend a lot of time outdoors on sunny days in the winter you realize how blue the light is in the shaddows. The sky is an immense blue softbox. Indeed you get various shades of blue as there are hard shaddows or soft (through pine boughs, etc.)
The woods are a bit colorless these days, but those yellow-brown leaves with the white snow, grey tree trunks and blue shaddows just seem to work very well.
Cheers, Alan.
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Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 22:06 GMT > ... if you spend a lot of time outdoors on sunny days > in the winter you realize how blue the light is in the > shadows. The sky is an immense blue softbox. I got back into photography about a year ago (after about 25 years off and having only recently moved to an area that experiences snow), so I'm just now noticing that. My own inclination is to try to make my photos as realistic as possible - as it relates to "how my brain thought the scene looked" rather than strick adherence to the original physics of the scene. Thus I tend to compensate somewhat for the blue cast in shadows, on objects, and on "white" snow. Not so much that the result looks fake or unreal, but in order to make it look MORE "real". Personal artistic choice, eh? Then again, who knows how I'll feel about it a year from now....
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 22:15 GMT > so much that the result looks fake or unreal, but in order to make it > look MORE "real". Personal artistic choice, eh? Then again, who > knows how I'll feel about it a year from now.... If you shoot slide film, blue shaddows are unavoidable without filtering.
Another truth is that if you shoot people in open shade, you better use a filter (81A/B) or they might look a little blue in the face. This goes all year round.
Cheers, Alan
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Ken Ellis - 20 Mar 2005 17:17 GMT >http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Cheers, >Alan It's a lovely photo Alan. The exposures are fine and good detail. I saw a photo by Richard Brown of a snow owl (w/w) and he says to actually lower the stops and shoot lighter than you normally would ( un-intuitive for me) but his works.
There are some changes alot of us make in photoshop that alter the colors a bit and their saturations. Fine photo as is. Will take a look at the other urls you posted subsequent exchange.
btw..picked up from a previous thread your reference to f-calc. DL'd and am reading the INF pages currently. Thanks again.
rgds
Ken
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 17:59 GMT > It's a lovely photo Alan. The exposures are fine and good detail. I > saw a photo by Richard Brown of a snow owl (w/w) and he says > to actually lower the stops and shoot lighter than you normally > would ( un-intuitive for me) but his works. Thank you. In the woods I was exposing as if it were slide film. Even there I'm not that happy with it. More experimenting to do.
> There are some changes alot of us make in photoshop that > alter the colors a bit and their saturations. Fine photo as is. > Will take a look at the other urls you posted subsequent exchange. Well, regarding the first image (birchbark on snow) if you take it into photoshop and look at the info, you'll notice first off that the blue channel is very high all over, including in the whites of the bark. The sky was intensely blue overhead and that's what fills the shaddows.
The only changes I made to that image were cropping, levels (very slight to bring up the red in the back of the bark) and USM.
> btw..picked up from a previous thread your reference to f-calc. > DL'd and am reading the INF pages currently. Thanks again. Glad you picked it up. If you go in the help pages, the equations are there. Just remember that the units are always the same (eg: if the CoC is in mm, then the distances are in mm too.)
Cheers, Alan
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Ken Ellis - 20 Mar 2005 20:27 GMT >> It's a lovely photo // shoot lighter than normally
>Thank you. In the woods I was exposing as if it were slide film. Even >there I'm not that happy with it. More experimenting to do. sure
>> There are some changes alot of us make in photoshop
>Well, regarding the first image (birchbark on snow) blue >channel is very high shaddows. Well, yeah... so if your looking to check cam - output - my mistake.
>The only changes I made to that image were cropping, levels (very slight >to bring up the red in the back of the bark) and USM. right..that's the point. Actually sometimes l'll use a layer ontop of a tan tone with light opacity to warm. The other thing is to desat or - better yet - a little color replacement. But here we're farther afield from cam output . I find when i take pics of the snow.. often i may get a blue or a grey...where that wasn't my impression at the time i shot...but that in my head. So that's what i would try to reproduce..albeit perhaps innacurate.
>> btw..picked up from a previous thread your reference to f-calc. >> DL'd and am reading the INF pages currently. Thanks again. > >Glad you picked it up. If you go in the help pages, the equations are >there. Just remember that the units are always the same (eg: if the >CoC is in mm, then the distances are in mm too.) I appreciate the advice.
>Cheers, >Alan Ta Alan Ken
Patrick - 20 Mar 2005 22:13 GMT > http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Cheers, > Alan Real nice, glad the the snow wasn't yellow :)
Patrick
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:02 GMT > Real nice, glad the the snow wasn't yellow :) ...we have the technology...
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Ken Nadvornick - 21 Mar 2005 00:56 GMT > http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg > > In difuse shaddow with a low sun getting at some parts of the snow. Sky > was cloudless. Hello Alan,
Of those of your images I have seen to date, this one is far and away the best. I confess to a double-take look at it when it initially downloaded.
Very well done.
Ken
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:02 GMT > Hello Alan, > > Of those of your images I have seen to date, this one is far and away the > best. I confess to a double-take look at it when it initially downloaded. > > Very well done. Thanks!
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Lar - 21 Mar 2005 15:12 GMT Noob here, learning a lot from your shared photos and the ensuing discussions. Much appreciated. I do not have an experienced eye, but both your first and last (birchbark and berries) photos seem excellent to me.
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