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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / March 2005

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[Phot - 7D] - white on white

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Alan Browne - 19 Mar 2005 23:18 GMT
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg

In difuse shaddow with a low sun getting at some parts of the snow.  Sky
was cloudless.

Cheers,
Alan

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Scott W - 20 Mar 2005 06:37 GMT
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> --      [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
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Hey Alan,

Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?

Scott
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 16:36 GMT
> Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?

Thanks.  It has its positives, such as that image.  Exposure is still
not going as I expect, but at least I don't have to wait a day for the
film to come back.

I shot another pair of images.  One that pleases me, but has a major
area of blow out.  One that is exposed perfectly, but loses its visual
impact...  oh, hell I'll post them, hang on a second...

http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0966S.jpg looks better
overall to me, but the snow is blown out on the log.

http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0967S.jpg doesn't blow out,
but overall is a bit dreary looking.

Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes.

Cheers,
Alan

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Scott W - 20 Mar 2005 16:48 GMT
> > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
> Thanks.  It has its positives, such as that image.  Exposure is still

> not going as I expect, but at least I don't have to wait a day for the
> film to come back.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes.

I like the second one much better, you might try printing it, often a
photo that does not look great on the screen will look surprisingly
good in a print.

It would be very easy to edit the second photo bring up the brightness
over all but keeping the one area from blowing out.

Are you shooting raw?  Shooting raw should extend you latitude by a
noticeable amount, you still have to have care about the highlights but
not as much.

It takes a while to get used to shooting digital, it is not like
shooting negatives at all, with film I found it almost impossible to
expose so much that I lost the highlights, but very easy to loose
detail in the shadows, with digital it is just the opposite, very easy
to blow out the highlights but easy to get good detail in the shadows.

At this point if I where to go back to shooting film I would have to
retrain myself as to how to expose correctly.

Your photos are looking very good, I don't think you are going to
have much problems with learning how to get the most out of your new
camera, have fun.

Scott
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 17:07 GMT
> I like the second one much better, you might try printing it, often a
> photo that does not look great on the screen will look surprisingly
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> noticeable amount, you still have to have care about the highlights but
> not as much.

I am shooting RAW as well as JPG.  (Which means these JPG' photos are
slightly compressed).  OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth.
 I haven't explored this fully yet.

> It takes a while to get used to shooting digital, it is not like
> shooting negatives at all, with film I found it almost impossible to
> expose so much that I lost the highlights, but very easy to loose
> detail in the shadows, with digital it is just the opposite, very easy
> to blow out the highlights but easy to get good detail in the shadows.

I'm used to shooting slide which has a narrow lattitude.  While digital
behaves similarly in may respects, it is different.

> At this point if I where to go back to shooting film I would have to
> retrain myself as to how to expose correctly.
>
> Your photos are looking very good, I don't think you are going to
> have much problems with learning how to get the most out of your new
> camera, have fun.

fun?  Oh yeah!!  Thanks for your comments/suggestions.

Cheers,
Alan

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Scott W - 20 Mar 2005 17:40 GMT
> I am shooting RAW as well as JPG.  (Which means these JPG' photos are

> slightly compressed).  OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth.
>   I haven't explored this fully yet.

Elements 3.0 will work with 16 bits/color, With some limits, like no
layers.

Scott
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 18:02 GMT
> Elements 3.0 will work with 16 bits/color, With some limits, like no
> layers.

Sorry, I meant 2.0 above (which I have), not 3.0.  I'm waitng for the
local "Bureau en Gros" (Staples) to get its E 3.0's in (english
version).  I don't use layers very much, so no prob.

Further, the RAW plugin for the 7D is supposedly better in E 3.0 than
the Monolta supplied version.

Cheers,
Alan

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Ed Ruf - 20 Mar 2005 17:46 GMT
>I am shooting RAW as well as JPG.  (Which means these JPG' photos are
>slightly compressed).  OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth.
>  I haven't explored this fully yet.

??? http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopelwin/newfeatures.html#nf6
----------
Ed Ruf    Lifetime AMA# 344007 (Usenet@EdwardG.Ruf.com)
See images taken with my CP-990/5700 & D70 at
http://edwardgruf.com/Digital_Photography/General/index.html
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 18:03 GMT
>>I am shooting RAW as well as JPG.  (Which means these JPG' photos are
>>slightly compressed).  OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth.
>> I haven't explored this fully yet.
>
> ??? http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopelwin/newfeatures.html#nf6

Sorry, I meant 2.0 (which I have).  I'm waiting for 3.0 (english) at the
local store.

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ian lincoln - 21 Mar 2005 00:55 GMT
>> I like the second one much better, you might try printing it, often a
>> photo that does not look great on the screen will look surprisingly
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> slightly compressed).  OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. I
> haven't explored this fully yet.

Did you get elements 3.0 included with the camera?
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:02 GMT
> "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message

>>I am shooting RAW as well as JPG.  (Which means these JPG' photos are
>>slightly compressed).  OTOH, Elements 3.0 only works 8 bits/color depth. I
>>haven't explored this fully yet.
>
> Did you get elements 3.0 included with the camera?

No.  I have elements 2.0 (came with scanner).  Above I meant E 2.0, not
3.0).

Cheers,
Alan

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RSD99 - 20 Mar 2005 20:38 GMT
FWIW:
A Contrast Mask would probably do either (or both) of those images a *lot*
of "good."

> > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> --      [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
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ThomasH - 20 Mar 2005 21:00 GMT
> > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes.

Indeed, and this makes the Fuji S3 so promising with their
larger dynamic range through 14bit per pixel. I often prefer
to underexpose scenes with bright details to prevent this
so typical "all max. white spot" on the image. Later the
image can be brightened by applying some gamma adjustment,
what provides satisfactory results and yet preserves some
texture in highlights.

The magnificent image of the birch bark shows a different
problem with the blue cast on snow, but here film might have
the same issue. It is sometimes not easy to make the snow
appear pure white, as our brain want us to believe it is!
However, I love this gentle blue in your image!

Thomas

> Cheers,
> Alan
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
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Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 23:10 GMT
>>Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes.
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> The magnificent image of the birch bark shows a different
> problem with the blue cast on snow, but here film might have

This is a point of discussion.  Walking in the woods (again today) under
a brillant blue sky one can't help notice that the shaddows are blue.
The soft shaddows even have darker blue shaddows in them.

AFAIAC the blue is natural and should remain.  Unless it is a person in
the shot, then I'd slap on Mr. 81A.

I agree about he S3, but I don't have Nikon lenses...

> the same issue. It is sometimes not easy to make the snow
> appear pure white, as our brain want us to believe it is!

If you shoot in the sunlight on slide film (say Sensia, EliteChrome 100
or E100S), the shaddows will be blue and the whites will be dazzling
white. (Like in the two shots above... the white is white and the
shaddows in the back are blue).

> However, I love this gentle blue in your image!

Thanks.

It's all natural (I did poke the red in birchbark shot a tad).  In soft
shaddow areas there will even be hard shaddow areas that are a deeper
blue.  This is the same on film.  I'll post a couple in the coming day
or so.

I should have elements 3.0

Cheers,
Alan.

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Patrick - 20 Mar 2005 22:17 GMT
> > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> Cheers,
> Alan

You have to lift the shadows in PhotoShop and underexpose a little so as to
not blow things out, as in your second example.    It's part of the digital
thing.

One thing I find about digital is that shadow detail is better, or at least
the detail is recoverable in PhotoShop.

Patrick
Colin D - 20 Mar 2005 22:55 GMT
> > Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> Cheers,
> Alan

Hello Alan,
In the interests of defending digital photography {:-), I took the
liberty of downloading your second shot and running it through Elements
3 to see what shadow detail was lurking in the black depths of your
image.

Here is the result:

http://www.pbase.com/colin_d/inbox

Let's see slide film do that.

regards, Colin.
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 23:39 GMT
>>>Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> http://www.pbase.com/colin_d/inbox

Thanks for the effort.  The noise is kinda sucky (I realize you probably
did this a bit quickly, there's that artificial looking line on top edge
of the log).  I agree slide film can't do that, but that same image has
a RAW version spinning here so when I get E 3.0 this week we'll begin
digging in the shaddows...

Cheers,
Alan.

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ian lincoln - 21 Mar 2005 00:54 GMT
>> Great photo, how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Like slide, not very tolerant of wide latitude scenes.

a tripod and a knowledge of varying opacity in layers comes in handy at this
point.  I know someone who does this often to make sure he gets the right
shot.
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 18:31 GMT
how are you liking being in the digital world?

Here's another from Thur.  300mm f/2.8 + 1.4TC .  Cropped.  A bit soft.
 From my kitchen across into my back neighbors yard.  There were gusts
of wind at the time so it took several shots to get a reasonably sharp
one and exposure had to be bracketed.  (Or I could have run out there
with an incident meter).

http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg

Cheers,
Alan

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Bob Hickey - 21 Mar 2005 22:52 GMT
> how are you liking being in the digital world?
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> one and exposure had to be bracketed.  (Or I could have run out there
> with an incident meter).
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg

> Cheers,
> Alan
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Ten years from now, that shot will still look good on the wall. Teriffic.
Bob Hickey
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 23:10 GMT
> "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message

> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg

> Ten years from now, that shot will still look good on the wall. Teriffic.
> Bob Hickey

Thanks, I'm not that happy with it.  I just got back a slide version,
should have it scanned shortly.  We'll see.

Cheers,
Alan

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Ben Rosengart - 21 Mar 2005 23:27 GMT
>> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg
>>
>> Ten years from now, that shot will still look good on the wall. Teriffic.
>
> Thanks, I'm not that happy with it.

Why not?

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I rather like it.

Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 23:38 GMT
>>Thanks, I'm not that happy with it.
>
> Why not?

Not sharp enough.  300 mm + 1.4 TC + low shutter speed plus slight wind
movement... just not as tack sharp as I'd like.  The above is a crop, to
boot...

Cheers,
Alan
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Scott W - 22 Mar 2005 07:50 GMT
> > "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Thanks, I'm not that happy with it.  I just got back a slide version,

> should have it scanned shortly.  We'll see.
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> --      [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
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You are going to to post the scan of the slide, right?

Scott
ian lincoln - 22 Mar 2005 12:24 GMT
>> > "Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message
>>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>> Cheers,
>> Alan

erm you shot with a normal camera too or did you have a slide made from the
file and are now scanning it?
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 15:25 GMT
> erm you shot with a normal camera too or did you have a slide made from the
> file and are now scanning it?

I shot it on film as well as DSLR.

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Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 15:20 GMT
> You are going to to post the scan of the slide, right?

Maybe.  The slide looks fine.  THe scan is not so hot.  I have to work
it again.  I'm not inspired.

Cheers,
Alan

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ian lincoln - 22 Mar 2005 19:47 GMT
>> You are going to to post the scan of the slide, right?
>
> Maybe.  The slide looks fine.  THe scan is not so hot.  I have to work it
> again.  I'm not inspired.

chalk one up for dslrs :)
Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:15 GMT
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg

Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the
frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and
shadow, would give that picture a very Zen feel...just a suggestion
from a tyro....
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 21:25 GMT
> Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the
> frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and
> shadow, would give that picture a very Zen feel...just a suggestion
> from a tyro....

It was posted for other reasons.  It's not that good a shot for various
reasons.

You want zen ...

http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg

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Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:27 GMT
>> Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the
>> frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> It was posted for other reasons.  It's not that good a shot for
> various reasons.

I know; that was just an initial impression I just thought I'd throw
in!
Owamanga - 22 Mar 2005 21:33 GMT
>> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0873SM.jpg
>
>Cropping the tree-trunk (and maybe a little off the bottom of the
>frame) out, leaving the twig alone in front of the blurry snow and
>shadow, would give that picture a very Zen feel...just a suggestion
>from a tyro....

Confucius say: F*ck Zen, that's just a load of cold pebbles.

To improve the image further, also dump the part of the twig that
exits stage-right, and photoshop some little jet thruster flames under
the others to give it an outer-space feel.

Try *that* with film, you'll just burn your fingers.

--
Owamanga!
http://www.pbase.com/owamanga
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 19:23 GMT
http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg

Cheers,
Alan

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Ken Ellis - 21 Mar 2005 02:17 GMT
>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>
>Cheers,
>Alan

Pretty nice. Good detail and sharpness. Crisp.

Can you turn off the in - cam As? Does it make a difference when you
use a tripod? I know with the in-lens is of the canon lense - it tells
ya to turn of the is when on a tripod. Nice though to have all
your lenses is now.

Rgds

Ken
Bob Harrington - 21 Mar 2005 03:51 GMT
>> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> ya to turn of the is when on a tripod. Nice though to have all
> your lenses is now.

The 7D does have a switch for the AS, and the manual advises it be
turned off when a tripod is used.  I occasionally forget with my 7D - in
that case, the AS will sometimes do a little searching which results in
a slightly blurred image.

Bob ^,,^
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:44 GMT
>>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> that case, the AS will sometimes do a little searching which results in
> a slightly blurred image.

Really?  I would have thought that on a tripod the out-of-bandwidth
shake would cause the AS to do nothing at all.

The manual says to turn it off, but does not specify why.  It may be
just to save batteries.

I'll test this later on (for blur when on and tripod mounted).

Cheers,
Alan.

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Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:13 GMT
>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Alan
>
> Pretty nice. Good detail and sharpness. Crisp.

Thanks, the full size is great (detail, etc).

> Can you turn off the in - cam As? Does it make a difference when you

AS is a switch on the back of the camera.  There is a viewfinder
indicator as well.

> use a tripod? I know with the in-lens is of the canon lense - it tells

I've used in on tripod.  I suspect it measures a very low freq/low
amplitude shake and just does not activate the A-S at all.

Cheers,
Alan

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Ken Ellis - 21 Mar 2005 21:40 GMT
>>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>Cheers,
>Alan

cool
ken
Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:21 GMT
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg

In this one, the blueness of the snow is nicely balanced by the warmer
grays and browns of the tree (compared to the twirl-of-birchbark
image, where the blue seems almost distracting to me).

I guess this is the first time I've commented, in this group, on
posted pictures...but snow tends to inspire me!
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 21:26 GMT
>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> I guess this is the first time I've commented, in this group, on
> posted pictures...but snow tends to inspire me!

Well it's (finally) beginning to melt here...

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Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 21:38 GMT
>> ...but snow tends to inspire me!
>
> Well it's (finally) beginning to melt here...

I live in the mountains of western NC; we didn't get nearly enough
this year to suit this former Florida boy!  This is about the best
shot I got for the season:

http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict
ure=66

Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 00:16 GMT
>>>...but snow tends to inspire me!
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict
ure=66
 

I was more taken with:
http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict
ure=49

(Note the blue tone).

Some of your outdoor shots seem underexposed and muddy.

I like a lot of your compoisitions.  Good eye.

Cheers,
Alan

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Greg Evans - 23 Mar 2005 16:01 GMT
> I was more taken with:
> http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict
ure=49

> (Note the blue tone).

On that one the blue tone seemed more appropriate, especially against
the brown rocks.  However, I did have to adjust the color temp of the
RAW image to keep the rocks from having too much of a blue cast as
well.

> Some of your outdoor shots seem underexposed and muddy.

The computer/monitor I use to work on images makes these shots look
cleaner and more vivid, much as I originally intended; on many other
monitors they turn out as you say.  I think part of that has to do
with the difference in native display color-temp/gamma between Mac and
Windows systems (not to mention between CRTs and LCDs).  Oddly, my
production monitor matches final printed output much more closely, so
I don't want to tweak the color management too much at this point -
unless there's a way to get both print AND web images to show
properly.

The other thing I've begun to notice is that there's a reason that
wide-angle adapter was so inexpensive....

> I like a lot of your compositions.  Good eye.

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 16:27 GMT
> The computer/monitor I use to work on images makes these shots look
> cleaner and more vivid, much as I originally intended; on many other
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> unless there's a way to get both print AND web images to show
> properly.

This is the area where a lot of problems occur in showing images.  I
just uploaded the latest version of the birch bark on snow image for
printing at a local store.  I'll see what happens to it along the way.
I specified no changes to color.

The PC "standard" gamma is 2.2.  For Mac's it's 1.8.

If you have the bandwidth...
http://www.creativemac.com/2001/05_may/tutorials/totalphotoshop609/totalphotosho
p609-popup1.htm

It illustrates well how a Mac image will appear on a Windows screen.

I love the last sentence he utters!

Cheers,
Alan

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Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 17:09 GMT
>>I was more taken with:
>>http://www.shutterspeedway.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?user=csnord&gallery=Main&pict
ure=49

>>(Note the blue tone).
>
> On that one the blue tone seemed more appropriate, especially against

On another note, this is what I meant by shaddows on soft shaddows:
(Not a very good photo, but illustrates the point).

http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0951S.jpg

Cheers,
Alan

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Greg Evans - 23 Mar 2005 21:39 GMT
> On another note, this is what I meant by shaddows on soft shaddows:
> (Not a very good photo, but illustrates the point).
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0951S.jpg

Yes, and I also note the tree trunks look a bit bluish as well.
That's the kind of thing I usually end up compensating for by warming
things up just a bit (or at least reducing the blue somewhat without
producing noticable yellow).  My goal would be to reduce the blue cast
on the tree trunks to produce a more "expected" gray or gray/brown
tone, and making the shadows less obviously blue without making the
rest of the snow turn off-white.

I don't know why I've gone to as much effort as I have to describe my
take on post-processing.  It's not like I consider it necessary to
convince you, because you obviously know what the hell you're doing
better than I do!  To me this boils down to a personal artistic
philosophy - do I leave the shadows technically-accurate blue, or
revise the image to match my mind's-eye impression more closely?  I
find such questions, and individuals' takes on them, very interesting,
but I haven't seen much discussion of this aspect of the photographic
process...perhaps the equipment newsgroups aren't the right place for
that, it just now occurs to me....
Alan Browne - 23 Mar 2005 22:36 GMT
> ...because you obviously know what the hell you're doing
> better than I do!  

er, don't count on it!

Cheers,
Alan

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ian lincoln - 24 Mar 2005 00:12 GMT
>> ...because you obviously know what the hell you're doing better than I
>> do!
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Cheers,
> Alan

there is also the matter of whether or not you fit filters to your digital
camera or adjust it afterwards.  perhaps even in camera custom white
balance.
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 21:43 GMT
>>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/PICT0962ES.jpg
>
> In this one, the blueness of the snow is nicely balanced by the warmer
> grays and browns of the tree (compared to the twirl-of-birchbark
> image, where the blue seems almost distracting to me).

It did strike me as very blue at first.  But if you spend a lot of time
outdoors on sunny days in the winter you realize how blue the light is
in the shaddows.  The sky is an immense blue softbox.  Indeed you get
various shades of blue as there are hard shaddows or soft (through pine
boughs, etc.)

The woods are a bit colorless these days, but those yellow-brown leaves
with the white snow, grey tree trunks and blue shaddows just seem to
work very well.

Cheers,
Alan.

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Greg Evans - 22 Mar 2005 22:06 GMT
> ... if you spend a lot of time outdoors on sunny days
> in the winter you realize how blue the light is in the
> shadows.  The sky is an immense blue softbox.

I got back into photography about a year ago (after about 25 years off
and having only recently moved to an area that experiences snow), so
I'm just now noticing that.  My own inclination is to try to make my
photos as realistic as possible - as it relates to "how my brain
thought the scene looked" rather than strick adherence to the original
physics of the scene.  Thus I tend to compensate somewhat for the blue
cast in shadows, on objects, and on "white" snow.  Not so much that
the result looks fake or unreal, but in order to make it look MORE
"real".  Personal artistic choice, eh?  Then again, who knows how I'll
feel about it a year from now....
Alan Browne - 22 Mar 2005 22:15 GMT
> so much that the result looks fake or unreal, but in order to make it
> look MORE "real".  Personal artistic choice, eh?  Then again, who
> knows how I'll feel about it a year from now....

If you shoot slide film, blue shaddows are unavoidable without filtering.

Another truth is that if you shoot people in open shade, you better use
a filter (81A/B) or they might look a little blue in the face.  This
goes all year round.

Cheers,
Alan

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Ken Ellis - 20 Mar 2005 17:17 GMT
>http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>Cheers,
>Alan

It's a lovely photo Alan. The exposures are fine and good detail.  I
saw a photo by Richard Brown of a snow owl (w/w) and he says
to actually lower the stops and shoot lighter than you normally
would ( un-intuitive for me) but his works.

There are some changes alot of us make in photoshop that
alter the colors a bit and their saturations. Fine photo as is.
Will take a look at the other urls you posted subsequent exchange.

btw..picked up from a previous thread your reference to f-calc.
DL'd and am reading the INF pages currently. Thanks again.

rgds

Ken
Alan Browne - 20 Mar 2005 17:59 GMT
> It's a lovely photo Alan. The exposures are fine and good detail.  I
> saw a photo by Richard Brown of a snow owl (w/w) and he says
> to actually lower the stops and shoot lighter than you normally
> would ( un-intuitive for me) but his works.

Thank you.  In the woods I was exposing as if it were slide film.  Even
there I'm not that happy with it.  More experimenting to do.

> There are some changes alot of us make in photoshop that
> alter the colors a bit and their saturations. Fine photo as is.
> Will take a look at the other urls you posted subsequent exchange.

Well, regarding the first image (birchbark on snow) if you take it into
photoshop and look at the info, you'll notice first off that the blue
channel is very high all over, including in the whites of the bark.  The
sky was intensely blue overhead and that's what fills the shaddows.

The only changes I made to that image were cropping, levels (very slight
to bring up the red in the back of the bark) and USM.

> btw..picked up from a previous thread your reference to f-calc.
> DL'd and am reading the INF pages currently. Thanks again.

Glad you picked it up.  If you go in the help pages, the equations are
there.  Just remember that the units are always the same  (eg: if the
CoC is in mm, then the distances are in mm too.)

Cheers,
Alan

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Ken Ellis - 20 Mar 2005 20:27 GMT
>> It's a lovely photo // shoot lighter than  normally

>Thank you.  In the woods I was exposing as if it were slide film.  Even
>there I'm not that happy with it.  More experimenting to do.
sure
>> There are some changes alot of us make in photoshop

>Well, regarding the first image (birchbark on snow) blue
>channel is very high shaddows.
Well, yeah... so if your looking to check cam - output - my
mistake.
>The only changes I made to that image were cropping, levels (very slight
>to bring up the red in the back of the bark) and USM.

right..that's the point. Actually sometimes l'll use a layer ontop of
a tan tone with light opacity to warm. The other thing is to desat
or - better yet - a little color replacement. But here we're farther
afield from cam output . I find when i take pics of the snow..
often i may get a blue or a grey...where that wasn't my impression
at the time i shot...but that in my head. So that's what i would
try to reproduce..albeit perhaps innacurate.

>> btw..picked up from a previous thread your reference to f-calc.
>> DL'd and am reading the INF pages currently. Thanks again.
>
>Glad you picked it up.  If you go in the help pages, the equations are
>there.  Just remember that the units are always the same  (eg: if the
>CoC is in mm, then the distances are in mm too.)
I appreciate the advice.

>Cheers,
>Alan

Ta Alan
Ken
Patrick - 20 Mar 2005 22:13 GMT
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Cheers,
> Alan

Real nice,  glad the the snow wasn't yellow :)

Patrick
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:02 GMT
> Real nice,  glad the the snow wasn't yellow :)

...we have the technology...

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Ken Nadvornick - 21 Mar 2005 00:56 GMT
> http://www.aliasimages.com/images/KM7D/BirchBarkSnow.jpg
>
> In difuse shaddow with a low sun getting at some parts of the snow.  Sky
> was cloudless.

Hello Alan,

Of those of your images I have seen to date, this one is far and away the
best.  I confess to a double-take look at it when it initially downloaded.

Very well done.

Ken
Alan Browne - 21 Mar 2005 14:02 GMT
> Hello Alan,
>
> Of those of your images I have seen to date, this one is far and away the
> best.  I confess to a double-take look at it when it initially downloaded.
>
> Very well done.

Thanks!

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Lar - 21 Mar 2005 15:12 GMT
Noob here, learning a lot from your shared photos and the ensuing
discussions.  Much appreciated.  I do not have an experienced eye, but both
your first and last (birchbark and berries) photos seem excellent to me.
 
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