>>> I just want to say THANKS to everyone who contributes to this ng. I
>>> know it is TV and radio's job to sell the sensational, so all you
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> 'some' depth of field, not sure how much it helped, should have tried
> different settings.........Dave M.
Having never done this before how do you stop down the outer lens? I
thought lenses of the last couple of decades, even those with aperture
rings, only stop down when you shoot?
Greg

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Rita Ä Berkowitz - 25 Feb 2007 23:57 GMT
>>> You are welcome! We all learn from these discussions... so... the
>>> exif on that says 2 seconds f/3.5, therefore I assume you stopped
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> thought lenses of the last couple of decades, even those with aperture
> rings, only stop down when you shoot?
The only lens you stop down is the main lens that is on the camera. If you
stop down the reversed lens you will get vignetting.
Rita
G.T. - 26 Feb 2007 00:03 GMT
>>>> You are welcome! We all learn from these discussions... so... the
>>>> exif on that says 2 seconds f/3.5, therefore I assume you stopped
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> The only lens you stop down is the main lens that is on the camera. If you
> stop down the reversed lens you will get vignetting.
I understood that. Since the others were discussing stopping the 50mm
down I was just wondering how one would do that?
Greg

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Paul Furman - 26 Feb 2007 00:21 GMT
>>>> I just want to say THANKS to everyone who contributes to this ng. I
>>>> know it is TV and radio's job to sell the sensational, so all you
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>> of getting 'some' depth of field, not sure how much it helped, should
>> have tried different settings.........Dave M.
Oops, I read the exif wrong. The DOF & sharpness look great, reduced to
web size at least.
> Having never done this before how do you stop down the outer lens? I
> thought lenses of the last couple of decades, even those with aperture
> rings, only stop down when you shoot?
I don't have a 50mm but my 45mm AI-P is modern and has an aperture ring
that stops down when it's not mounted on a body. I think the 50/1.8 is
the same but I'm not sure, the 45 is an odd one: very simple pancake
design. I'm also not positive that is the correct way to stop down but I
believe I read that it is... and unless I messed up, my own experiments
showed that it gives better sharpness.
Here's the 45 on a 105 with the 45 stopped down to f/11 & the 105 wide
open at f/4.8, closest distance (no vignetting)looking at the computer
monitor:
<http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=Misc/misc-photos/2007-02-25-macro>
This was a quick test, it's possible I didn't have the focus right.
Here's some with an old fashioned 28mm f.2:
<http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=Misc/photography/2006-11-19_105x2-28-macro>
Wolfgang Schmittenhammer - 26 Feb 2007 01:49 GMT
>>>>> I just want to say THANKS to everyone who contributes to this ng.
>>>>> I know it is TV and radio's job to sell the sensational, so all you
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> Here's some with an old fashioned 28mm f.2:
> <http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=Misc/photography/2006-11-19_105x2-28-macro>
There is a little 'lock' you move, then you manually set the aperture
with the aperture ring.
DoN. Nichols - 28 Feb 2007 04:50 GMT
According to G.T. <getnews1@dslextreme.com>:
[ ... ]
> > The 50 mm was wide open, as soon as I stopped it down any it vignetted,
> > I stopped the 105mm to 32 (as far as it would go) in hopes of getting
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> thought lenses of the last couple of decades, even those with aperture
> rings, only stop down when you shoot?
That is when the lens is on the camera body. There is a tab
projecting out of the back of the lens mount which engages a lever inside
the camera body. This holds the lens wide open for focusing and
composing, and the lever moves out of the way when the mirror also moves
out of the way, allowing the lens to stop down to whatever the setting
is. I presume that the lever only moves part of the way to control the
lens' aperture during the shot when the body is determining the
aperture. The lock which someone else mentioned is to keep the aperture
ring set to the smallest aperture so the camera body can select any
aperture within its range. Otherwise it would stop at whatever aperture
is set on the ring.
When the lens is not normally mounted on the camera body, there
is nothing to stop the tab, so the lens stops down to whatever is set on
the ring -- on with lenses which have no ring (like the 18-70mm kit
lens) it stops all the way down.
So -- your reversed lens will need an aperture ring, and that
will need to be set to the maximum aperture (most open) to keep the lens
from stopping down. Or -- you will need to use a rubber band or some
wire to hold the tab to keep the lens wide open.
I hope that this helps,
DoN.

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