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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / January 2007

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First macro lens

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Hairy Arse - 04 Dec 2006 23:42 GMT
I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about it
:)

it's got the standard 18 to 55mm lens, and a sigma 55 to 200mm lens, which
takes care of taking photo's from a distance,

But i really want to get into macro photography, i really love the extreme
close ups you see in the mags, it was actually a macro photo of a cats
tounge i saw whilst waiting for the dentist that made me want to get a new
camera,

It was so close up you could see all the individual hooks like pink velcro,
and i want to take similar photo's (my dog will have to substitute for a cat
:)

I can't afford canon's prices for lenses, even with the vouchers for a few
quids off, so i'm looking at aftermarket lenses.

What would be suggested for a first macro lens? a fixed focal length or a
zoom? i don't want a big zoom lens that has a macro bit on the end of the
range, but rather a dedicated macro lens that is only of use taking close up
photo's.

Price is a big factor, what's new tho :)
Wayne J. Cosshall - 05 Dec 2006 00:02 GMT
Dear Hairy :),

Another couple of things to consider are extension tubes and close-up
lenses, since price is a big issue. Now I wouldn't try these on the
Canon kit lens probably but the Sigma might be fine. Extension tubes
will get the close focus distance of any lens down, but at the cost of
less light. Closeup lenses will get you closer with no light loss but
may incur an image quality cost. I've successfully used both, preferring
the extension tubes on a 50mm f1.8 (and my 100mm macro for even closer)
and the closeup lenses on a 100-400 IS Canon lens. Neither solution is
as good as a dedicated macro lens, as there are compromises with image
quality with both, but they can be a worthwhile option to consider,
especially while you are gaining experience.

Re macro lenses if Canon is out then I'd look at Sigma, Tokina and maybe
Tamron. Whilst I have had good personal experience with Tamron macros in
the past, there seems to have been a lot of comment on the net about
quite variable quality from lens to lens. Personally I like the slightly
longer working distance of a 100mm (or there abouts), but a lot depends
on your subject matter.

Cheers,

Wayne

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Alan Browne - 05 Dec 2006 00:38 GMT
> What would be suggested for a first macro lens? a fixed focal length or a
> zoom? i don't want a big zoom lens that has a macro bit on the end of the
> range, but rather a dedicated macro lens that is only of use taking close up
> photo's.

Tamron 90 macro (esp, the used full fram f/2.8 version)
Tamron 50 macro

and, oddly enough,

The Sigma 180 macro (although a bit extreme on a cropped sensor.

Cheers,
Alan

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faune8 - 05 Dec 2006 03:31 GMT
> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know
> about it
>:)
>
> it's got the standard 18 to 55mm lens, and a sigma 55 to 200mm lens,

Tamron 90 mm macro or more expensive canon 100mm macro (which has a very
good reputation). As for myself I bought an extention tube (Canon 25mm) and
with my 17-85 it's great very very close to the subject..to bad this is not
a binairie group I'd show you. Why don't you go on dbase (google) and
you'll find an answer.
 Good luck Jean

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default - 05 Dec 2006 05:40 GMT
> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about
> it
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> tounge i saw whilst waiting for the dentist that made me want to get a new
> camera,

If you really want to keep it cheap, there are a few options.  I used my
Canon EF-S 18-55mm lens for macro quite a bit at first.  To begin with, it
focuses quite close (0.28m from the film plane) getting you a magnification
of 0.26 which is over 1/4 life sized on the sensor at 55mm focal length.
Since the lens is quite short, it leaves some room to your subject so
lighting is easier too.  The 18-55 is quite versatile.  Your 55-200 has a
maximum magnification of 0.22 at 200mm at 110cm from the image plane.
That's pretty good too.

There are three very cheap ways to get closer still.

1.  For around $40 you can get a set of Tiffen close-up dioptre 58mm
filters.  These come with a +4, +2, +1 and can be stacked.  A diopter is the
reciprocal of the focal length in meters.  So +4 moves infinity focus to
250mm and the lens focuses still closer if you move the focus ring toward
the close focusing limit.  These work quite well with just a touch of
chromatic aberration but with no loss of light or lens functionality.  You
could spend more for double element dioptres, but then you would be better
off putting the money toward the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 or another macro lens.
Autofocus works pretty well with close-up filters on the 18-55.  I've got
some very nice pictures using the cheap close-up lenses on the 18-55.  Your
55-200 takes 55mm filters so get a 55-58mm step up ring for a few bucks so
it can share your 58mm filters for your 18-55 and see which works nicer for
you.

2.  (not quite as cheap) You can get extension tubes.  As far as I know,
only the Canon EF 25 II and EF 12 II will work with EF-S lenses.  The non II
models do not, and most third party tubes do not.  These are a bit more
trouble since you have to remove the lens to mount them.  They will also
move the close focusing limit closer for any lens but do cause a reduction
in brightness necessitating longer exposures.  They also have more effect at
short focal length.  They are a bit awkward to use and generally require
manual focus or moving the camera as the autofocus doesn't work very well
with them although the AF confirmation light will work.  You have to be very
careful in focusing and the working distance gets very small at shorter
focal lengths.  These are also pricy enough to suggest saving your money
instead toward a real macro lens.

3.  Mount the lens backwards for very high magnifications.  This requires a
reverse adaptor which is really cheap (about $12).  You can get one for 58mm
threads from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/58mm-Canon-EOS-Lens-Reversing-ring-macro-photography_W0QQite
mZ130052033337QQihZ003QQcategoryZ30059QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


The 18-55 actually works very nicely reversed.  Use manual mode or aperture
priority modes since you lose the electronic contact.  This is probably not
a good solution for taking pictures of the dog's tongue however.  The
aperture can be stopped if desired by down by putting the lens on the normal
way, setting the aperture in Av mode and then while holding the depth of
field preview button, remove the lens.

If you want the ultimate reverse setup for Canon lenses, have a look at:
http://www.novoflex.com/english/html/products.htm

This adaptor connects the electronic contacts to the front and provides a
filter thread even so you can fully use the automatic features of the
camera.  However for that price you could also buy an EF-S 60mm macro,
although if you want really high magnifications, (like more than 2:1) you
will need to get into reversing your lenses.

These methods are not as cheap:

4.  The next cheapest thing after that is a cheap zoom lens that focuses
close, like the Sigma 70-300mm DG Macro lens that goes to 1:2 and can take
+1 diopters to get a bit closer still.  +2 and higher seems to start to
degrade the image on it.  Extension tubes can be used also.  This isn't the
sharpest lens ever and at 300mm focal length, vibrations are a real
detriment to good pictures.

6.  A 1.4x or 2x teleconverter will increase the magnification by this
amount but cost one or two stops of light repectively by increasing the
focal length but not the minimum focus distance.  These are not a good
solution for your lenses are your lenses are already at the limit for
autofocus to function (f/5.6).  Secondly the EF-S lens can only be mounted
on a teleconverter using an extension tube.  This is all getting to be good
money after bad again and better put toward a real macro lens.

7.  Finally save up for a real macro lens, and watch the newspapers and
forums for a used one for sale at a good price.  Sometimes a factory
refurbished unit can be had from Canon for a slightly cheaper price.  Real
macro lenses have the benefit of flat field correction, very high optical
quality, low distortions etc.  The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 macro for example also
has silent USM focusing and has no external parts that move when focusing so
you don't scare the small animal or bug that you are photographing.  Macro
lenses don't come cheap though.

Conclusion:  To have some fun now, buy some cheap close-up lenses, a step up
ring, and maybe a reversing ring and save up for a real macro lens when you
know what you really want and can afford it.  You will get some great
pictures with what you have and a very small investment.  If you get really
serious into macro photography then you can buy better stuff later if you
find that you need it.
Arnor - 05 Dec 2006 07:03 GMT
Hi,

> It was so close up you could see all the individual hooks like pink velcro,
> and i want to take similar photo's (my dog will have to substitute for a cat
> :)
>
> I can't afford canon's prices for lenses, even with the vouchers for a few
> quids off, so i'm looking at aftermarket lenses.

My cat won't let me get near her with a camera, so I have no idea about
how to get a photo of her tounge<g>  I shot this photo with my Digital
Rebel 350 with the kit lens and a 2x diopter filter at 55mm f5.6 and
400ASA at 1/160.  http://www.itakefotos.com/stuff/_mg_1333.jpg  Note
that this is a completely unprocessed jpg so nothing has been done to
it except download from camera.  The "thing" there is about 1 - 1.5 cm
in diameter.  The depth of focus is very short when using a diopter
filter, but with patients you can use it and it is not expensive.  I
bought a kit from adorama
(http://www.adorama.com/SU58CUS.html?searchinfo=diopter&item_no=29)
that contains 3 diopters for $35 but they are out of them now and you
can get the Hoya for $41 (I think they are probably better quality than
the sunpaks, but they were out of the Hoyas when I bought<g>)  They are
fun to experiment with if you don't want to shell out for macro lens.

I have used my 70-300mm (non IS) lens also for macro shots (example:
http://www.itakefotos.com/stuff/_mg_1980.jpg)  This shot was at 300mm
f7.1 and 400ASA at 1/500 - handheld.  Not very good, not very sharp,
but I have got some nice shots with it - hand holding should be
avoided<g>

Best regards,

Arnor Baldvinsson
San Antonio, Texas
frederick - 05 Dec 2006 08:26 GMT
> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about it
> :)
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Price is a big factor, what's new tho :)

What's new is a new 70mm Sigma DX.  It might be fantastic, so please try
it and report back.  It might be great.
For "off" brands:
Sigma 105mm is as good as anything.  Low low CA, and sharp as a pin.
Noisy clunky solid metal construction that makes you long for plastic?
Tamron 90mm is as good as anything.  9 blade diaphragm - so circular OOF
highlights for nice boket.  (new 70mm Sigma also has 9 blade diaphragm,
but that's not to say the boket isn't butt ugly - you try it first)
Tokina 100mm - apparently great too, but as the Sigma 105 or Tamron 90
are better, why bother.
That's it.
Oem lenses cost a lot more.  The tamron or sigma are arguably better
than the OEM equivalents - if you look at MTF data, but they are all so
good you're never going to see any difference between them. Longer good
non-OEM macros (such as Sigma 150 or 180) also cost a lot more.  Longer
good OEM macros require you to get a credit card limit revision.
Focus distance at around 1:1 is about a foot from the film plane with
the ~100mm macros.  With a 50mm it's too close - almost inside the hood.
 With the 150 or 180mm it's further, but the lens costs a lot more.
Aad - 05 Dec 2006 08:27 GMT
> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about
> it
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Price is a big factor, what's new tho :)

For the price (or less) of a good macro lens you can buy a very decent
compact camera.
The most compact camera's have excelent macro possibilities.
You will have -a lot- more DOF with a compact and therefore it's easyer to
start with macro photography.
It'll also give you a preview on the LCD. That's more comfortable than
crawling around in the mud. ;-)
Just a thought.
br
Aad
Tony  Polson - 05 Dec 2006 12:42 GMT
>it's got the standard 18 to 55mm lens, and a sigma 55 to 200mm lens

Nothing but the best for you!

;-)
tomm42 - 05 Dec 2006 13:54 GMT
> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about it
> :)
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Price is a big factor, what's new tho :)

The lenses that offer 1:1 focusing and decent working distance is the
90-105mm macro lenses. The good news is that everyones model is good.
You may want to look in camera stores for used ones, a used lens even
autofocus is not a bad buy if it is clean. Since at 1:1 magnfication
you generally focus by hand, autofocus isn't precise enough, a manual
focus lens wouldn't be a bad buy. I have a manual focus Tamron 90 f2.5
at work that is a nice lens, but needs an extension tube to get to 1:1,
make sure you get them together, should be able to pick one up for
$100-200. Used autofocus lenses run $250-$400.
Another option is a multi element closeup lens, much better than the
regular single element generally sold. The Canon 500D is an excellent
buy. Runs about $125. But do yourself a favor and get a 100mm or so
macro, will open your eyes to waht high quality lenses can do.

Tom
Floyd L. Davidson - 05 Dec 2006 16:28 GMT
>> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about it
>> :)
...

>> What would be suggested for a first macro lens? a fixed focal length or a
>> zoom? i don't want a big zoom lens that has a macro bit on the end of the
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>buy. Runs about $125. But do yourself a favor and get a 100mm or so
>macro, will open your eyes to waht high quality lenses can do.

Tom has provide a concise and accurate description!  The high
points are that AF is not as significant for a macro lense,
every manufacturer makes good macro lenses , and bargains are
available.

A couple of added points.  The comment about the Tamron 90mm
needing a extension tube to get to 1:1 is true for virtually all
90mm macro lenses.  Some use a teleconverter (which work fairly
well with macro lenses).  The typical 105mm macro lense focuses
down to 1:1 with no assistance, and also provides a bit more
subject to lense distance that is useful too.

Multi-element closeup (diopter) lenses are achromatic, and
single element versions are not.  That is the reason for the
higher price tag (and they are well worth the difference).
Canon makes the most expensive ones.  Nikon has a set, and
Olympus does too.  Generally they are not nearly as good as a
dedicated macro lense.  They have little effect on short focal
length lenses, and work best with prime lenses rather than
zooms.  Hence they do make an interesting adjunct to owning a
macro lense, but are not a good substitute.  (I use a 105mm
f/2.8 manual focus macro made made by Kiron, and use an Olympus
MCON-35 +2.9 achromatic diopter too.  I also have an old Vivitar
2x Macro Focusing Telextender.  Both the diopter and the
telextender work well with the 105mm macro lense, and are rarely
ever used with any other lense.)

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achilleaslazarides@yahoo.co.uk - 05 Dec 2006 16:33 GMT
> A couple of added points.  The comment about the Tamron 90mm
> needing a extension tube to get to 1:1 is true for virtually all
> 90mm macro lenses.  Some use a teleconverter (which work fairly
> well with macro lenses).  The typical 105mm macro lense focuses
> down to 1:1 with no assistance, and also provides a bit more
> subject to lense distance that is useful too.

I think newer versions of the 90mm macro lenses do focus to 1:1 without
anything, eg my Tamron 90mm (it's marked "SP AF", the model number is
172E; it's not the latest model) does. When I was looking for a macro,
I found some other 90mm Tamron lenses (all used) which indeed only
focused to 1:2. So it depends on the lens; if the OP decides to go this
route, he should be a bit careful with the different versions of these
lenses.
Jon B - 05 Dec 2006 17:27 GMT
> > A couple of added points.  The comment about the Tamron 90mm
> > needing a extension tube to get to 1:1 is true for virtually all
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> route, he should be a bit careful with the different versions of these
> lenses.

Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work on a
the next digital body [1]. I picked up a 400D at the weekend and tried a
recent used EX Sigma 105 macro, Error 99'd on the 400D

[1] I won't personally put any money into a new sigma either.
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frederick - 05 Dec 2006 23:20 GMT
> Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
> avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work on a
> the next digital body [1]. I picked up a 400D at the weekend and tried a
> recent used EX Sigma 105 macro, Error 99'd on the 400D
>
> [1] I won't personally put any money into a new sigma either.

Golly - I thought Canon would have been able to fix the Error 99 problem
on their cameras by now.
Jon B - 06 Dec 2006 00:05 GMT
> > Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
> > avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work on a
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Golly - I thought Canon would have been able to fix the Error 99 problem
> on their cameras by now.

It isn't Canon's problem, is was Sigma only doing half a job reverse
engineering the Canon lens mount.
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frederick - 06 Dec 2006 04:43 GMT
>>> Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
>>> avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work on a
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> It isn't Canon's problem, is was Sigma only doing half a job reverse
> engineering the Canon lens mount.

Then how come it happens with Canon lenses too?
G.T. - 06 Dec 2006 05:55 GMT
>>>> Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
>>>> avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Then how come it happens with Canon lenses too?

It does?  News to me.

Greg

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frederick - 06 Dec 2006 06:56 GMT
>>>>> Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
>>>>> avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> It does?  News to me.

Use google to update your news then then.
Sigma are pretty good at fixing lenses (rechipping them for free), even
lenses bought second hand.
There were minor problems with some Sigma Lenses with the Nikon D200.
Nikon fixed the problem with a firmware update - but before that Sigma
rechipped them for free.  I'm surprised if Canon doesn't do the same.
Jon B - 06 Dec 2006 11:03 GMT
> >>>>> Yes all the recent Tamron's are 1:1, the Sigma's are quite often best
> >>>>> avoided used as it is a minefield as to whether they will even work
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> >
> > It does?  News to me.

I've seen something on dirty contacts but not on old lenses ceasing to
work due to lens firmware.

> Use google to update your news then then.
> Sigma are pretty good at fixing lenses (rechipping them for free), even
> lenses bought second hand.

They do? They reckon to charge around £40 over in the UK, and then a few
years later they don't work again on a newer body and they can no longer
be rechipped. When I had the older D30 I had a three rather nice Sigma
lenses, a 28-70 f2.8, 90mm f2.8 Macro, and a 180mm f5.6 macro, non of
which would work (or could be rechipped) on anything newer than a D60,
hence I paid about £70 tops for any of them, rather than £140+ for
similar Tamron lenses.
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Tony  Polson - 05 Dec 2006 18:20 GMT
>I think newer versions of the 90mm macro lenses do focus to 1:1 without
>anything, eg my Tamron 90mm (it's marked "SP AF", the model number is
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>route, he should be a bit careful with the different versions of these
>lenses.

That's good advice, and exactly right.  The earliest version was a
90mm f/2.5, manual focus.  The second version was a 90mm f/2.8, also
manual focus.  Both needed an accessory Adaptall mount, which was
available for most camera brands.  

To reach 1:1, both versions needed a dedicated extension tube or to be
used on bellows.  Without the tube they managed only 1:2.

All subsequent versions are f/2.8.  The optics of the AF versions
steadily improved.  The latest version has a "Di" designation which
means it has had improved costings applied to the rear element to cut
ghosting and flare by reflection off the digital sensor.  That is the
best option for digital SLR users, but it is the most expensive, as a
used market is only just beginning to develop.
Paul Furman - 05 Dec 2006 16:05 GMT
> But i really want to get into macro photography, i really love the extreme
> close ups you see in the mags, it was actually a macro photo of a cats
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> and i want to take similar photo's (my dog will have to substitute for a cat
> :)

> Price is a big factor, what's new tho :)

What I did was get a really nice 2-element +2 diopter closeup 'filter'
in a large size with step up rings and when I finally did get a real
macro lens, that's still useful on it to get beyond 1:1 magnification,
plus a teleconverter, or another reversed lens on that. Even 1:1 is not
that extreme really but a true macro lens has good enough resolution to
be used beyond it's limits.

Here's some tests with the 105 macro and a reversed 28mm:
<http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=Misc/photography/2006-11-19_105x2-28-macro>
-the first page is without teleconverter, the second with.

The thing is, at this kind of magnification, you really need a stable
tripod, the only way to do hand held is maybe in blaring sun with high
ISO & flash, for these tests I set the camera on a table near a window,
even a decent tripod was too bouncy.
Paul Furman - 05 Dec 2006 16:19 GMT
> What I did was get a really nice 2-element +2 diopter closeup 'filter'
> in a large size with step up rings and when I finally did get a real
> macro lens, that's still useful on it to get beyond 1:1 magnification,
> plus a teleconverter, or another reversed lens on that.

Oh, here's the closeup lens plus teleconverter:
<http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=Misc/photography/2006-09-03-macro>

> Even 1:1 is not
> that extreme really but a true macro lens has good enough resolution to
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> ISO & flash, for these tests I set the camera on a table near a window,
> even a decent tripod was too bouncy.
eawckyegcy@yahoo.com - 05 Dec 2006 16:35 GMT
> I can't afford canon's prices for lenses, even with the vouchers for a few
> quids off, so i'm looking at aftermarket lenses.

Don't be silly:  if someone can buy you the body, you can certainly
afford the lens.

Working distance is the most important user-interface issue with macro
lenses.  O(100mm) is just too close alot of the time.  I suggest, if
macro is your calling (as you claim it is), that you "make do" with
whatever you have now while you save up and get the Canon EF 180/3.5L:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=112541
&is=GREY&addedTroughType=search


And since it's just about impossible to make a "bad" macro lens, you
can always look into the equivalent Sigma:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=389299
&is=USA&addedTroughType=search


I recommend this approach because by "inching" your way up the scale,
you simply waste time and money.
Paul Furman - 05 Dec 2006 16:50 GMT
>>I can't afford canon's prices for lenses, even with the vouchers for a few
>>quids off, so i'm looking at aftermarket lenses.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=112541
&is=GREY&addedTroughType=search

Hmm the 65mm MP-E is actually less $
<http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=183199
&is=USA&addedTroughType=search
>
And that one is actually able to go way beyond 1:1 (5:1).
In fact I think it won't even focus further than 1:1.

> And since it's just about impossible to make a "bad" macro lens, you
> can always look into the equivalent Sigma:
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I recommend this approach because by "inching" your way up the scale,
> you simply waste time and money.
J. Clarke - 05 Dec 2006 18:00 GMT
>>>I can't afford canon's prices for lenses, even with the vouchers for a few
>>>quids off, so i'm looking at aftermarket lenses.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> And that one is actually able to go way beyond 1:1 (5:1).
> In fact I think it won't even focus further than 1:1.

It's a very specialized lens.  The working distance is quite short for one
thing.

>> And since it's just about impossible to make a "bad" macro lens, you
>> can always look into the equivalent Sigma:
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> I recommend this approach because by "inching" your way up the scale,
>> you simply waste time and money.
Tony  Polson - 05 Dec 2006 19:25 GMT
>> Hmm the 65mm MP-E is actually less $
>> <http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=183199
&is=USA&addedTroughType=search
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>It's a very specialized lens.  The working distance is quite short for one
>thing.

Don't be ridiculous.  

Traditionally, a great many macro lenses for use on 35mm film were in
the 50-65mm range.  Nikon's best seller was 55mm, later 60mm.  Canon's
best seller was 50mm.  Pentax and Minolta also made 50mm macro lenses.

Later, longer focal lengths also became popular.  The classic focal
length became the range 90-105mm.  It helped that bellows were no
longer needed.

By happy coincidence, the Canon 65mm is a 105mm equivalent when used
with an APS sensor.  When used on full frame, it is within the
original classic focal length range.  And it doesn't need bellows.

That's a win/win.  And quoting from the B&H web site:

"A unique lens exclusively for use in the macro realm, the MP-E 65mm
can fill a 35mm frame with an object as miniscule as a grain of rice!
Floating internal lens elements keep the resolution sharp throughout
the range of focus. The lens also has an element of ultra-low
dispersion glass. For macro shooters with a desire to document the
diminuitive, the MP-E is a quantum in ease-of-use compared to previous
solutions involving bellows."

It's a beauty!  

;-)
eawckyegcy@yahoo.com - 05 Dec 2006 20:09 GMT
Tony Polson once again proves he has never had a clue:

> >> Hmm the 65mm MP-E is actually less $
> >> <http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=183199
&is=USA&addedTroughType=search
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Don't be ridiculous.

The MP-E 65mm is arguably the strangest lens that Canon sells;  J.
Clarke's characterization was accurate.

http://photo.net/canon/mp-e-65

The lens alone is probably useless:  the purchaser will quickly find a
need for a focusing rail and a non-trivial flash setup.
Paul Furman - 05 Dec 2006 20:45 GMT
> Tony Polson once again proves he has never had a clue:
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> The lens alone is probably useless:  the purchaser will quickly find a
> need for a focusing rail and a non-trivial flash setup.

The OP was interested in extreme macro. This is the correct tool for
that, and it's actually not all that terribly expensive. But yes to get
a cat's tongue is not practical unless the cat is dead. It's pretty easy
to set up small stationary objects on a table top but really challenging
to get things out in the real world, damn near impossible to get moving
insects at that kind of magnification.
J. Clarke - 06 Dec 2006 00:00 GMT
>> Tony Polson once again proves he has never had a clue:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> to get things out in the real world, damn near impossible to get moving
> insects at that kind of magnification.

The OP has a new camera with the two kit lenses and he wants to take
pictures like he saw in a magazine, and he's on a tight budget.  That's not
somebody who is ready to deal with an MPE.

Personally I'd say go with a decent 100mm or so conventional macro.
That gets him a good sharp tele, and has enough subject distance for macro
work up to 1:2 or so that the on-camera flash will probably not be casting
a lens shadow, 1:1 on an APS-C sensor will get him that cat's tongue
(cat's mouth will just about fill the frame) if it's a decent quality lens
and both he and the cat manage to hold steady for the duration of the
exposure (and he should be able to stay far enough away from the cat to
not disturb it, if the cat knows him), if he needs to go past 1:1 he can
add extension tubes later.

By the time he's outgrown the 100 he'll know a Hell of a lot about macro
photography that he doesn't know now, and should have all the tools that
he needs to do it, and have an idea of what he wants to do that the 100
won't do.
Paul Furman - 06 Dec 2006 01:13 GMT
>>>Tony Polson once again proves he has never had a clue:
>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> pictures like he saw in a magazine, and he's on a tight budget.  That's not
> somebody who is ready to deal with an MPE.

I know he's not going to spend $800 on a macro lens but it's sort of
routine in these groups to suggest preposterously expensive lenses (ha)
and really this one is not as much as I thought, much less than the
180mm suggestion. And, really for what he describes, this would be the
best way to go even for a beginner if that's really what he wants to do.
I've tinkered around with all kinds of crazy reversed lens setups & they
really stink: you can't see well through the viewfinder, the results are
sometimes awful, etc.

> Personally I'd say go with a decent 100mm or so conventional macro.
> That gets him a good sharp tele, and has enough subject distance for macro
> work up to 1:2 or so that the on-camera flash will probably not be casting
> a lens shadow, 1:1 on an APS-C sensor will get him that cat's tongue

Hmm, ok I guess so, I was thinking it had to be much closer:
http://tn3-2.deviantart.com/fs9/300W/i/2006/144/4/2/Cat__s_Tongue_by_xiaoxiao22.jpg

> (cat's mouth will just about fill the frame) if it's a decent quality lens
> and both he and the cat manage to hold steady for the duration of the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> he needs to do it, and have an idea of what he wants to do that the 100
> won't do.
J. Clarke - 06 Dec 2006 02:30 GMT
>>>>Tony Polson once again proves he has never had a clue:
>>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> and really this one is not as much as I thought, much less than the
> 180mm suggestion.

A 180 is not bad--if there's budget for it I'd go with that over a 100 for
a first macro--a 180 Sigma is a lot cheaper than the 180 Canon and
optically isn't bad--the big question is whether it will keep working with
newer Canons--their 90 macro is optically very nice and dirt cheap but it
won't work with a 20D and they won't fix it.

> And, really for what he describes, this would be the best way to go even
> for a beginner if that's really what he wants to do. I've tinkered
> around with all kinds of crazy reversed lens setups & they really stink:
> you can't see well through the viewfinder, the results are sometimes
> awful, etc.

No need for reversed lenses and the like with a real macro lens.  Up to
1:1 you just focus.  Closer than that you put it on an extension tube.

No matter what lens you're using when you get closer than 1:1 you can't
see well through the finder, the results are sometimes awful, etc.  At
5:1`the MPE is effectively giving you f/16 when open to full aperture.
That makes for a pretty dark finder.

>> Personally I'd say go with a decent 100mm or so conventional macro.
>> That gets him a good sharp tele, and has enough subject distance for
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Hmm, ok I guess so, I was thinking it had to be much closer:
> http://tn3-2.deviantart.com/fs9/300W/i/2006/144/4/2/Cat__s_Tongue_by_xiaoxiao22.jpg

I may be a little off there--thinking about it I think I blew my Metric
conversion--the front element would be about 4 inches from the cat's
mouth.  2:1 would be 8 inches.  I grew up with the English system and
despite degrees in physics, math, and engineering and 20 years working as
an engineer I still don't see distances in metric.  On the other hand that
image doesn't look like it's quite 1:1 on an APS-C sensor unless it's a
small cat.

For the cat you'd be wanting a supplemental light source regardless, and
I'd suggest a continuous light, not a flash, if you ever want the cat to
let you shoot it again.  Let it get used to the light--if you can position
it to make a comfy warm spot the cat may prove surprisingly cooperative.

Another option that will get that shot and not break the bank would be to
just get a Panasonic FZ7.  At the long end it focuses to a meter and with
its small sensor that gives about the same field as you'd get at 1:1 with
an APS-C sensor--this is one area where a small sensor can be a benefit if
you can get enough light onto it.  Getting past what would be 1:1 on an
APS-C camera you've hit its limits, but up to that level that long lens
combined with a reasonable close-focus capability is quite nice.

>> (cat's mouth will just about fill the frame) if it's a decent quality
>> lens and both he and the cat manage to hold steady for the duration of
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> tools that he needs to do it, and have an idea of what he wants to do
>> that the 100 won't do.

Signature

--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Marc Sabatella - 06 Dec 2006 18:57 GMT
>> The OP has a new camera with the two kit lenses and he wants to take
>> pictures like he saw in a magazine, and he's on a tight budget.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> setups & they really stink: you can't see well through the viewfinder,
> the results are sometimes awful, etc.

As someone who is only half a step removed from the OP's position in
terms of macro experience & interest, I'd still suggest that the lens
being discussed doesn't really sound like a good suggestion - far too
much money to spend on a lens that seems extremely limited in usefulness
unless you know you're going to be taking it extremely seriously.  But I
also agree that reversing rings and so forth are not going to be good
starting places, either - far too much complexity.

In fact, without knowing more about the OP's lvel of commitment to this,
even the 100mm dedicated macro might not be the best place to start
unless he can find a used one *really* cheap.  Yes, he says he's OK in
principle with a dedicated lens, but I personally find finding I'm
learning quite a bit - and getting surprisingly (to me) acceptable
(again, to me) results along the way - with just a $10 close-up lens (+3
diopter) on my general-purpose 50-200 zoom.  Before the real macro buffs
completely write off this suggestion, let me explain a bit further (and
show a couple of samples).

The specs for this lens (Pentax, but I imagine the Simga lens he has for
his Canon is somewhat comparable) say it achieves a 1:4 magnification,
but the +3 diopter takes it to just about 1:1 in terms of real measured
magnification: I can fill the frame with not quite an inch of a tape
measure, and my sensor is just shy of an inch wide.  Note that even
though my kit lens goes to 1:3 unaided, the diopter doesn't have as much
of an effect on it - I gather the effect of a diopter increases with
focal length.  Kind of the opposite of extension tubes in this respect.
Extension tunes might turn the 18-55 into a 1:1 lens, but with a much
smaller working distance than the 50-200 + closeup lens solution, so
perhaps not as generally practical.  Of course, everyone agrees the
*quality* of the cheap closeup lens solution is not going to be as good,
but I've been doing some experimenting to see if it can be made to work
*well enough for me*, and am finding the answer may be yes.

My first attempts with this combination - like everyone's with such a
setup, from what I understand - sucked *big time*.  Very soft, weird
chromatic aberrations, poor bokeh, distracting glare, etc.  But as I
learned more about the process (from reading and from experimentation),
the results have been improving markedly.  Stopping the lens down as
much as necessary (in my case, f27 does rather well), using a tripod or
other support, using flash as necessary to add light (including off
camera flash - a cheap slave flash in combination with the built-in
flash is quite effective), using a lens hood to cut down on lens flare
when appropriate, using mirror lockup if your camera has it - these are
techniques that seem to be worth learning and using even with a real
macro lens.  And with all these techniques in play, you can get better
results with just the cheap diopter solution than I think many people
who give up after initial disappointment of a first attempt would
imagine:

http://www.outsideshore.com/marc/photo/misc/MJS_061204_0821m.JPG

http://www.outsideshore.com/marc/photo/misc/MJS_061204_0793.JPG

Note these were just among the better shots I happened to make the other
night in my experimentation - not necessarily the best of which the
setup is capable.  Nor am I claiming these are particularly successful
artistically - and the idea for & composition of the coin image is
stolen directly from one I saw online when searching for info and
inspiration.  But I think they show that technically, even a cheap
diopter can produce results that might make a newbie to macro
photography (such as myself) happy for a while.  Sorry, I was unwilling
to risk my life in trying to get a closeup of either of my cats'
tongues, but I don't think the fine detail there is that much smaller
than that in these photos, so I am not convinced the magnification needs
to be any higher to do the sort of photography the OP is thinking about.
Of course, I am not claiming this setup capture the detail as sharply as
a real macro lens, but for $10, it's not a bad place to start.

BTW, I've also experimented with stacking diopters to get +6, and with
combining them with a teleconverter to further increase magnification at
a given working distance, but for me, the tradeoff in loss of sharpness
is thus far not worth it.  Further experimentation may improve the
results, but for now, I'm happy with 1:1 at the quality of the above.

---------------
Marc Sabatella
marc@outsideshore.com

Music, art,  & educational materials
Featuring "A Jazz Improvisation Primer"
http://www.outsideshore.com/
eawckyegcy@yahoo.com - 11 Jan 2007 18:45 GMT
> I know he's not going to spend $800 on a macro lens but it's sort of
> routine in these groups to suggest preposterously expensive lenses (ha)
> and really this one is not as much as I thought, much less than the
> 180mm suggestion.

I do this because I know it is almost always the right thing to do.

B&H sells the 180 for $1200 right now.  This does not strike me as a
"preposterous" amount of money for a photo afficionado, particularly
when typical digital bodies are in about the same ballpark:  if you can
pony up the dough for a reasonable camera, why not a good lens?  If
someone else has bought the body, why can't you afford the lens?  If
you blow your wad on a body, and can only afford el stinko lenses
thereafter, you shouldn't have bought the camera in the first place.
This was the usual advice during the film era, and it still applies
today with equal force.

Think!  Save $200 for six months and the OP has his lens.  If he can't
do that, he is in waaayyy over his head.  He has his priorities all
f.cked up.  Rather than perusing photo store catalogs, he should be
looking for a better job.  This is simple common sense.  Some day I'm
going to hack into google and decorate the results for "digital
photography" queries to have:

     Don't buy inexpensive junk!  Aggressively save and buy the best!

in a big, Jesus-type, blinking font, no less, right at the top.
Wayne J. Cosshall - 11 Jan 2007 20:58 GMT
Perhaps have a look at the Sigma line. I'm testing the 70mm f2.8 macro
at the moment and am most impressed. B&H list it at $429.

Cheers,

Wayne

Signature

Wayne J. Cosshall
Publisher, The Digital ImageMaker, http://www.dimagemaker.com/
Blog http://www.digitalimagemakerworld.com/

J. Clarke - 06 Dec 2006 00:00 GMT
>>> Hmm the 65mm MP-E is actually less $
>>> <http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=183199
&is=USA&addedTroughType=search
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Don't be ridiculous.

"Ridiculous" is recommending a highly specialized lens that you clearly
do not own and have never used.

> Traditionally, a great many macro lenses for use on 35mm film were in
> the 50-65mm range.  Nikon's best seller was 55mm, later 60mm.  Canon's
> best seller was 50mm.  Pentax and Minolta also made 50mm macro lenses.

But note that those were for the most part the _short_ end of that
seller's range of macro lenses and ask yourself why.  Then consider that
those lenses go to 1:1 at most without extension tubes or bellows.  Also
consider that most of those were used most of the time as "normal" lenses
and not for macro photography.

> Later, longer focal lengths also became popular.

Yes, mainly because of the short subject distances of 50mm lenses when
working past 1:1.

> The classic focal
> length became the range 90-105mm.  It helped that bellows were no longer
> needed.
>
> By happy coincidence, the Canon 65mm is a 105mm equivalent when used
> with an APS sensor.

Which doesn't mean that it gives you the same working distances as a 105mm.

> When used on full frame, it is within the
> original classic focal length range.  And it doesn't need bellows.

You keep going on about bellows.  You've clearly never heard of extension
tubes.  It's becoming more and more clear to me that what you know about
macro photography you read in a book or on the Web, you didn't learn it
by actually taking pictures of small objects.

> That's a win/win.  And quoting from the B&H web site:
>
> "A unique lens exclusively for use in the macro realm,

Note what they said there.  They're saying that it's a specialized lens.

> the MP-E 65mm can
> fill a 35mm frame with an object as miniscule as a grain of rice!

If that grain of rice is located a fraction of an inch from the
front element.

> Floating internal lens elements keep the resolution sharp throughout the
> range of focus. The lens also has an element of ultra-low dispersion
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> It's a beauty!  

Yeah, if it fills your specific set of needs.
Jim - 08 Dec 2006 04:39 GMT
Hi
I've been looking into the Canon 100mm 2.8 macro.Any comments on that one
for close ups?
Jim
> I'm getting a canon 350D for xmas (don't tell anyone, i don't know about it
> :)
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Price is a big factor, what's new tho :)
Frank ess - 08 Dec 2006 19:11 GMT
> Hi
> I've been looking into the Canon 100mm 2.8 macro.Any comments on
> that
> one for close ups?

When I was shopping a couple years ago I got the Tamron 90mm, good
eBay deal for (relatively) cheap, while the Canon 100mm wasn't
available in that venue or price range.

If I had do-overs and no money or time pressures, I'd get the Canon
first and a super-Canon 80mm for portraits.

The Tamron gives excellent output, comparable or (some say) superior
to the Canon, but:
Slower (time-wise) and Noisier autofocus than the Canon.

On a full-frame the Tamron is closer to my portrait ideal than the
Canon, otherwise the f/l difference is not significant, my view.

Today I'm still happy with the Tamron for my circumstances and uses.

Signature

Frank ess

 
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