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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / November 2006The world of filters
Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to get the 'right' stuff, as it were. As far as filters go... I want to get a polarizer filter......so what brand name is a good one to get (without breaking the bank). For a digital camera, BTW > Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to get the > 'right' stuff, as it were. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > For a digital camera, BTW You need a circular polarizer. See: Polarized Light and Evaluating Polarizing Filters http://www.clarkvision.com/photoinfo/evaluating_polarizing_filters Other digital info at: http://www.clarkvision.com Roger >> Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to get >> the 'right' stuff, as it were. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Roger That I knew, but what would be a good brand to get? >>> Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to get >>> the 'right' stuff, as it were. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > That I knew, but what would be a good brand to get? Whoops..just glanced at the webpage....thanx for the info > Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to get the > 'right' stuff, as it were. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > For a digital camera, BTW OEM (Canon, Nikon, Minolta, ...) brands, Hoya, B+W. Tiffen do not make multi-coated filters (AFAIK) so if MC is important to you, better go to Hoya or B+W. I consider them the Sigma's of the filter world which is _really_ unfair to Tiffen. MC (multi-coated) will be more flare resistant (and cost a little more). Another line is Heliopan which I would assume are very good given that their glass comes from the Schott works (makers of optical glass for the industry, incl. Zeiss). Price reflects that too (really only a little more $ than B+W and I doubt even the greatest measurebator could tell the difference). For your auto-focus to work you need "circular" polarizers. Some polarizers are quite deep yet not wide enough and cause vigentting at large apertures, esp. with wide angle lenses. This will be less apparent (or not apparent at all) on "cropped" sensor systems with FF 35mm lenses. B+W and Hoya have "super thin" multi-coated polarizing filters. Brass (B+W, Nikon, Minolta) is usually better than aluminum, less likely to get stuck on the lens. Get the B&H catalog where you can easily compare types and prices. Yes, the best cost more, and at least where B+W and most (but not all) Hoya's and OEM filters are concerned, worth it. Cheers, Alan  Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch. >> Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to get >> the 'right' stuff, as it were. [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > Cheers, > Alan I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid question....it said the filter has no front threads....how does the filter attach to the lens? >I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something >about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid >question....it said the filter has no front threads....how does the filter >attach to the lens? By the 'back' threads (really). The 'front' threads are for attaching another filter in front of the CPL. (The back is the side towards the lens, the front the side away from it). SignatureCharlie... http://www.chocphoto.com >>I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something >>about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > front > the side away from it). Ahhhh...okay....duh (in reference to me). So much to learn........ Thanx for answering!! More on the front thread: you might not be able to put your lens cap on if the filter has no front thread. SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly : Ahhhh...okay....duh (in reference to me). : : So much to learn........ : : Thanx for answering!! > More on the front thread: you might not be able to put your lens cap > on if the filter has no front thread. I think I read that there was some sort of 'cap' that came w/ the filter....I think > : Ahhhh...okay....duh (in reference to me). > : > : So much to learn........ > : > : Thanx for answering!! >> More on the front thread: you might not be able to put your lens cap >> on if the filter has no front thread. > > I think I read that there was some sort of 'cap' that came w/ the > filter....I think My ultra-thin Hoya filter comes with a rubber cap, since its threadless front and thin profile doesn't allow the attachment of the standard lens cap. SignatureImages (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at: www.pbase.com/markuson Mine didn't. I must investigate. SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly : > "Joan" <Joan@home.t2> wrote in message news:454d1856$0$8045$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au... : >> More on the front thread: you might not be able to put your lens cap : >> on if the filter has no front thread. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] : front and thin profile doesn't allow the attachment of the standard lens : cap. > Mine didn't. I must investigate. Can you please either stop top-posting or get rid of your signature. The combination of a proper sig and top-posting is obnoxious for those with newsreaders that pay attention to signatures. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons Sort out your own problems. I didn't seek your advice. SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly : > Mine didn't. I must investigate. : [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] : : Greg > Sort out your own problems. I didn't seek your advice. I wasn't giving you advice you stupid f.cking ignorant top poster. Get a clue, too, or at least half of one. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons I'll be you say that to all the girls you meet. SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly : > Sort out your own problems. I didn't seek your advice. : : I wasn't giving you advice you stupid f.cking ignorant top poster. Get : a clue, too, or at least half of one. : : Greg > I'll be you say that to all the girls you meet. No, just to the obstinate fools. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons Try a mirror. SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly : > I'll be you say that to all the girls you meet. : : No, just to the obstinate fools. : : Greg > Try a mirror. Anyway, would you mind posting in a readable format? Some format closer to the one used here by almost everyone? The type of format that has been found by trial and error for over 20 years to be the most readable one? Your posting style is as well loved as loaning another photographers gear (with permission) and then leaving dirty finger prints all over the front lens and back lens. And it produces just as, ah, readable posts as a such treated lens would produce sharp, contrasty images. -Wolfgang PS: Otherwise, people are going to decide that you are not taking even modest amounts of caring for your readers; and that thus your posts are not worth the time to read them. They'll use a kill file, removing your postings from your sight, just like a polariser removing reflections. That is not a threat --- I cannot hold a gun to the head of everyone here. That is a simply a prediction. >> Try a mirror. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > The type of format that has been found by trial and error for over 20 > years to be the most readable one? "Joan" is special, and should not be chided for one liners, top posting, and no trimming. You *go!*, Girl! Signaturejohn mcwilliams > Sort out your own problems. I didn't seek your advice. This NG has a long standing no-top-posting + snip for readability format which all regulars here adhere to. It certainly makes posts easier to follow, esp. in the longer threads. Cheers, Alan Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch. >Sort out your own problems. Done. <plonk> jc Signature"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA >> Sort out your own problems. > > Done. > > <plonk> I haven't killfiled anyone in over a decade but I'm getting very close with the willfully ignorant poster from Manly. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons Do you drive a Model T Ford? SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly : I haven't killfiled anyone in over a decade but I'm getting very close : with the willfully ignorant poster from Manly. : : Greg In article <4550609b$0$3043$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, > Do you drive a Model T Ford? In case you don't listen to guys -- stop top posting in this group. It's rude and means you're not responding to what's been posted by other people, and it's hard to follow. And anyone driving a Model T Ford these days is probably more knowledgeable about cars or has more money for a better mechanic than the average moron driving the equivalent of a point and shoot. You can continue to cling to the past if you wish, I prefer to embrace development and move with the times. Do you ever search Google Groups? SignatureJoan http://www.flickr.com/photos/joan-in-manly In article <4551aa8a$0$3051$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, > You can continue to cling to the past if you wish, I prefer to embrace > development and move with the times. > > Do you ever search Google Groups? Google says you're new, at least while using this identity. Top posting is so last century newbie. I'd have thought really progressive newbies would have found a different way to show it. > In article > <4551aa8a$0$3051$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Top posting is so last century newbie. I'd have thought really > progressive newbies would have found a different way to show it. Yes, "Joan" is a system unto her or himself. It's the rest of us who are out of synch. SignatureJohn McWilliams "Um, his vocabulary, like, uh, really, ah....... sucked." > <4551aa8a$0$3051$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, > > Top posting is so last century newbie. I'd have thought really > progressive newbies would have found a different way to show it. That's the fault of Micro$oft, and Joan uses Outlook Express. Outlook and Outlook Express both quote and place the cursor at the top, so everyone who uses those clients just start typing from there. I hate interoffice email for this reason - everyone except me and the IT guys just post away, often in a big long paragraph, without referencing the previous parts of the discussion. Sometimes I have to scroll through the whole email to figure out what the heck they're talking about, and then reply. At least it's funny when some twit writes back and shouts "WHERE'S YOUR REPLY? THE MAIL IS BLANK!", yet my reply is just below the relevant portion of their message and they're too dumb to look for it. :-) Windows Vista has improved the mail/news client with a new name of Windows Mail. One of the new features is that it will quote and place the cursor at the bottom of the post. However, the morons at Micro$oft once again fail to have it enabled by default. On top of that they buried it in the Options, Advanced tab where most users won't go out of fear that they'll screw up a setting. So most users will continue to top-post and newbies won't learn to reply properly since that's where the cursor will land in a reply. Sad, but true. :-( >> <4551aa8a$0$3051$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, >> >> Top posting is so last century newbie. I'd have thought really >> progressive newbies would have found a different way to show it. > > That's the fault of Micro$oft, and Joan uses Outlook Express. Add OE Quote Fix to MS Outlook Express and the cursor can be positioned at the bottom of the reply. The OE Quote Fix software has many other enhancements, and is worth evaluating. http://www.snapfiles.com/get/oequotefix.html David > > <4551aa8a$0$3051$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, > > > > Top posting is so last century newbie. I'd have thought really > > progressive newbies would have found a different way to show it. > > That's the fault of Micro$oft, and Joan uses Outlook Express. I thought there was a patch for that -- I knew one guy who loved to bait people into "get a real news reader" flames who had it and who was really good at getting people to mistake him for a newbie. Even he didn't top post because he really wasn't a newbie and knew where to get the patch. http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/ Nobody's telling Joan she can't be as modern as anyone else with a nice quotefix patch like the smart kids use. >> > Top posting is so last century newbie. I'd have thought really >> > progressive newbies would have found a different way to show it. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > get > the patch. I guess I'm lucky not to have seen those posts. I started using Agent 10 years ago in Usenet, just before I bought my first SLR camera, and I learned to reply and reference posts properly back then. Today I use Outlook or Vista Mail since the threading in newsgroups is much better than in Agent. It's one of the few things Micro$oft did right. > http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/ > > Nobody's telling Joan she can't be as modern as anyone else with a > nice > quotefix patch like the smart kids use. Yes, but newbies won't know about the patch, and even experienced users are stuck in top-post mode now because of Micro$ofts poor implementation starting 10 years ago, so they likely won't bother with the patch even when told about it. I just wish Microsoft had woken up and had the cursor option enabled in Vista Mail by default. But I guess you can't teach old dogs new tricks. And the new dogs at Microsoft all top-post since that's the way the old dogs taught them to post. Heck, I'm still amazed they put the option in there at all... > > I thought there was a patch for that -- I knew one guy who loved to > > bait [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > implementation starting 10 years ago, so they likely won't bother with > the patch even when told about it. I only use OE at work because it's the only place I use Windows, and I don't have the patch installed, because it has always been OBVIOUS to me to put my reply after what I'm replying to. Greg > You can continue to cling to the past if you wish, I prefer to embrace > development and move with the times. Wow, I didn't think that presenting readable posts had anything to do with the past or future. I guess you're one of those who confuses development with regression. > Do you ever search Google Groups? Where'd that non-sequitur come from? I see you're attempting to cover your absolute cluelessness with nonsense. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons Joan skrev: > You can continue to cling to the past if you wish, I prefer to embrace > development and move with the times. OK, this is sooo trite, it as been posted a hundred zillion times on the Usenet already, but evidently still not often enough: "A: Because it mucks up the way people naturally read. Q: Why is this so? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing with Usenet?" Move with the times, my a.s... Jan B?hme > Mine didn't. I must investigate. My Ultra-Thin Hoya came with a rubber cap and I must say that it is a challenge to keep it on. I don't even use it anymore since I wasted more time worrying about if it will fall off. If you didn't get one, Hoya did you a favor. Rita > More on the front thread: you might not be able to put your lens cap > on if the filter has no front thread. Yeah, the one filter I have that doesn't have front threads barely gets used because the form-fitting cap that came with it does not stay on. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons > I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something > about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid > question....it said the filter has no front threads....how does the filter > attach to the lens? It is not all that common that one would add other filters to a polarizer. One case would be with ND grads so the grad filter holder would need the pol to have front threads. (eg: Cokin). Other filters (if any other than ND grad) would go on before the circ pol. Usually, however, one removes all filters including "protective" UV/Skylight filters before mounting a circ pol to reduce vignetting and flare susceptibility. Hoya is a good choice, in particular their MC and Super MC are well regarded for flare control which of course yields higher contrast. Cheers, Alan. Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch. >> I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something >> about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > One case would be with ND grads so the grad filter holder would need the > pol to have front threads. (eg: Cokin). There is also the special case of hoods that screw into the filter threads instead of bayonetting on to the lens barrel. Actually such a hood would be a very nice thing to have when using a pola, as a pola filter can be a cast-iron bitch to rotate into the proper orientation when buried deep within a bayonet hood! 24-70 2.8L @ 70mm comes to mind... >> I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something >> about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >Other filters (if any other than ND grad) would go on before the circ pol. Can you put an ND grad on before the C Pol? >Usually, however, one removes all filters including "protective" >UV/Skylight filters before mounting a circ pol to reduce vignetting and >flare susceptibility. At Burning Man I didn't want to expose the front element of my 70-200 f2.8 L IS lens to the dust, so I put my C Pol on over my UV filter. Then I had a heck of a time getting them separated. I found it really hard to grasp the under-ring on the C Pol without also grabbing the UV filter ring. jc Signature"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA >At Burning Man I didn't want to expose the front element of my 70-200 >f2.8 L IS lens to the dust, so I put my C Pol on over my UV filter. >Then I had a heck of a time getting them separated. I found it really >hard to grasp the under-ring on the C Pol without also grabbing the UV >filter ring. These are handy for just that situation: http://www.adorama.com/FLFWB.html SignatureCharlie... http://www.chocphoto.com >>At Burning Man I didn't want to expose the front element of my 70-200 >>f2.8 L IS lens to the dust, so I put my C Pol on over my UV filter. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> >These are handy for just that situation: http://www.adorama.com/FLFWB.html Nifty! I'll be sure to take a set with me the next time I go to Burning Man! jc Signature"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA >> These are handy for just that situation: >> http://www.adorama.com/FLFWB.html > > Nifty! I'll be sure to take a set with me the next time I go to > Burning Man! Geez, that won't help. Take a pair of Channel-Locks instead. Then again, after looking at your Burning Man series I'd say leave the camera home. Rita There is another way to remove one filter from the other, if any one can remember the lid grabbers that were so popular some years ago, a thin sheet of some kind of rubber with some sort of texturing on it, like little bumps all over it, some of the grippers were square and some were round, all sorts of shapes, some had advertising logos on them, if you have 2 of them, you can work the filters apart, use one in each hand and turn oposite directions, the should un-screw from each other, or set one down or a stable surface and the filters on it and lay the other on top and twist, just a idea, have not seen the lid grippers in many years, think they went the way of 126 film, flash bulbs, and mirror balls :) > >At Burning Man I didn't want to expose the front element of my 70-200 > >f2.8 L IS lens to the dust, so I put my C Pol on over my UV filter. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > > These are handy for just that situation: http://www.adorama.com/FLFWB.html >There is another way to remove one filter from the other, if any one can >remember the lid grabbers that were so popular some years ago, a thin sheet [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >idea, have not seen the lid grippers in many years, think they went the way >of 126 film, flash bulbs, and mirror balls :) The problem is that the Circular Polarizer has a front element that spins, you have to grab the rear element and then separate it from the filter behind it. It's a much trickier problem than just separating two regular filters. jc Signature"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA >>There is another way to remove one filter from the other, if any >>one can remember the lid grabbers that were so popular some years [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > from the filter behind it. It's a much trickier problem than just > separating two regular filters. I've used rubber bands for this job. Wrap one band around the polarizer (both parts) and one around the other filter. SignatureRay (remove the Xs to reply) >>> I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing something >>> about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going to ask a stupid [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > hard to grasp the under-ring on the C Pol without also grabbing the UV > filter ring. Considering the fact that I still haven't got all the playa dust off of my bicycle after taking it to Burning Man in 1997 I don't think I'd bring anything more than a point and shoot unless it was in a fully sealed underwater housing. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons >Considering the fact that I still haven't got all the playa dust off of >my bicycle after taking it to Burning Man in 1997 97 was an unusual year, with Burning Man held on private land off the edge of the Black Rock Desert. IIRC one of the problems was that the water trucks put down exactly the right amount of water to create a thin layer of mud that then caked bicycle and car tires. >I don't think I'd >bring anything more than a point and shoot unless it was in a fully >sealed underwater housing. There's no way to use a bicycle at Burning Man without it getting caked with playa dust, but you *can* keep playa dust off a camera if you take some precautions. In my case I kept my camera in the camera bag in the RV, except for when I went out shooting. I only took the camera out of the RV when the weather was calm and no billowing dust. (Some of my favorite photos were at sunrise when it was cool and the air was very still and dust free.) Since my lens is sealed (70-200 L), no dust gets introduced into the camera while shooting. I only changed memory cards or batteries in the relatively still/dust free RV. I didn't change lenses, period. Next time I *might* consider changing lenses in the RV, but for the most part the 70-200 worked really well for the type of shots I like to take. Next time I may try enclosing the camera in a plastic bag (exposing only the front of the UV filter to the actual elements) and seeing if I can also use it in dusty conditions. Here are some amazing photos (not mine) taken in dusty conditions at Burning Man. <http://naturalturn.fotki.com/bm/2005/025028.html> <http://naturalturn.fotki.com/bm/2005/024615.html> <http://naturalturn.fotki.com/bm/2006/033214.html> jc Signature"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA > >Considering the fact that I still haven't got all the playa dust off of > >my bicycle after taking it to Burning Man in 1997 [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > water trucks put down exactly the right amount of water to create a > thin layer of mud that then caked bicycle and car tires. Oops, I was off by 2 years. I just checked the archives and it looks like I went in 1995. I only have prints from that year. > >I don't think I'd > >bring anything more than a point and shoot unless it was in a fully [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > <http://naturalturn.fotki.com/bm/2005/024615.html> > <http://naturalturn.fotki.com/bm/2006/033214.html> Wow, I like the door, so I ended up looking through all the 2005 shots. I also went in 2002 and took my old film Minolta: http://www.2fortheroad.net/burn/man.jpg http://www.2fortheroad.net/burn/burn.jpg http://www.2fortheroad.net/burn/temple.jpg http://www.2fortheroad.net/burn/temple_burn.jpg Next time I do I'll definitely get better shots. Greg >Oops, I was off by 2 years. I just checked the archives and it looks like I >went in 1995. I only have prints from that year. I went in 1996 (no camera), 1997 (film camera, I haven't scanned in those images yet), and 2004 (300D with 70-200 L lens). I'm told that 1995 was one of those years where you had a lot of weather (dust? rain?). Also, I don't imagine you had an RV - I was in an RV in 1996 and we were definitely in the minority out there. We got sneered at, until we invited folks in to chill with us in the ~80 degree air conditioned air inside the RV when it was 110 outside... jc Signature"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA >> Oops, I was off by 2 years. I just checked the archives and it looks like I >> went in 1995. I only have prints from that year. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > 1995 was one of those years where you had a lot of weather (dust? > rain?). A couple of solid hours of rain, it was actually quite nice. The playa dried up in a matter of an hour or two. > Also, I don't imagine you had an RV Neither time. In 1995 it was only 3 nights so not that big of a deal but in 2002 it was very wearing not being able to get out of the elements. The one really bad dust storm was hard to deal with only having a crappy tent. When I go back it will be with an RV. Greg Signature"All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons >>> I was looking at the Hoya filters off Amazon and was noticing >>> something about 'front threads' (its the slim filter). I am going [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > hard to grasp the under-ring on the C Pol without also grabbing the UV > filter ring. This is why it's worth paying extra for filters that are built from brass...instead of aluminum. Brass doesn't have the tendency to bind the way aluminum does. -Really a remarkable difference. B+W and Heliopan use brass... SignatureImages (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at: www.pbase.com/markuson >>Other filters (if any other than ND grad) would go on before the circ pol. > > Can you put an ND grad on before the C Pol? It would be a bit hard to control or if like a normal filter then locked in a position that restricts composition. (Look up the Cokin system). >>Usually, however, one removes all filters including "protective" >>UV/Skylight filters before mounting a circ pol to reduce vignetting and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > hard to grasp the under-ring on the C Pol without also grabbing the UV > filter ring. There are general situations (eg: "Usually" above). One can always leave them on for protective reasons as long as one understands the vignetting effect that may occur. Cheers, Alan Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch. > Yes, I am trying to build up the ole camera equipment and I want to > get the 'right' stuff, as it were. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > For a digital camera, BTW If you want top quality, then B+W or Heliopan. Both use brass rather than aluminum, which helps a great deal with avoiding sticky or difficult removal (unscrewing of the filter), which can be troublesome at times with polarizers due to the rotating front grip. Heliopan is very expensive, as is B+W. My personally favorite is B+W. Hoya also makes very nice filters...especially their premium line. SignatureImages (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at: www.pbase.com/markuson |
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