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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / August 2006

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Lens Hoods

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Larry Stoter - 03 Aug 2006 21:19 GMT
I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.

In the process of upgrading to a D-SLR, I've noticed that lens hoods are
pushed very hard.

Is this because the different optics of a D-SLR requires them?

Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

Signature

Larry Stoter

David Kilpatrick - 03 Aug 2006 21:43 GMT
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

They may well be for lots of Canon lenses (£18 to £50 essential add-on,
not included in the price of the lens), but they are not for Konica
Minolta/Sony for example - the hoods have always been supplied with the
lenses. In the dim and fading past, lens cases were supplied too...
Sigma still does that.

In fact it can be very hard to get a replacement lens hood for those
makes which don't try screw extra profit by selling their lenses without
hoods.

David
Bill - 03 Aug 2006 21:51 GMT
>In the process of upgrading to a D-SLR, I've noticed that lens hoods are
>pushed very hard.
>
>Is this because the different optics of a D-SLR requires them?

Not at all - lense optics are all the same and there is no such thing as
a "digital" lense for digital cameras.

Some people or salesmen may try to tell you that digital cameras need
special multicoated lenses, but that applies to all optical glass, so
it's misleading.

>Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

I'm sure they're like filters, batteries, and cleaning kits - lots of
profit there.

If you have no problem using your hand as a shade, keep doing so and
save yourself some money.

Having said that, I use lense hoods because they make it easier to get
the shot without having to hold my out like I'm begging for coffee.

:-)

I also like to do a lot of long exposures, sometimes multiple shots in a
row (like last night in the lightning storm), and even though I'm in
shape, holding my hand in just the right spot for several minutes does
get tiresome.
DoN. Nichols - 03 Aug 2006 22:02 GMT
According to Larry Stoter <larry@cymru.freewire.co.uk>:
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

    It is because:

1)    They *do* help in certain lighting conditions.  An example was
    at a graduation exercise for a friend's daughter, I was using
    the 28-105mm on a Kodak/Nikon NC2000e/c (Nikon N90s body
    converted to digital by a replacement back and subbase by Kodak
    for the AP).  I was not able to chose my angle and position, and
    wound up with significant flare (which mostly cleaned up in
    post-processing, but which lost some dynamic range).  I did not
    have the lens hood for that lens at the time.  I do, now.

2)    Protection!  Today's lens hoods (at least for Nikkor lenses)
    are a tough plastic which absorbs bumps against walls and other
    things, instead of letting the impact distort the filter thread,
    and possibly otherwise damage the lens.  (And it also keeps the
    body from receiving as much shock from such a bump.)

    Granted -- it projects out more, and increases the *chances* of
    such a bump.

    So -- I use lens hoods on almost every lens which I have for use
on the D70 (and eventually the D200, when I get it.)  The bayonet mount
for lens hoods on Nikkor lenses allows easy reversal of the hood to
minimize storage size in the camera bag.

    Some lenses, such as the 18-70mm "kit" lens for the D70, come
with a lens hood as part of the package.  (Granted, I bought the lens
later, so I don't know for sure whether it comes with the lens as part
of a kit, but it certainly comes witt the lens when it is bought
separately.

    Hmm ... it may be that some of the less reputable vendors are
saving aside the lens hood, as they do with the battery charger and some
other standard "supplied with" accessories when selling the cameras, and
then try to sell it to you as a "needed part" when you buy the camera,
with the total effect of rising their supposed "bargain price" to equal
the normal price of the camera.

    Enjoy,
        DoN.

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Email:   <dnichols@d-and-d.com>   | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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          --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

ink - 04 Aug 2006 08:24 GMT
<snip>
> with a lens hood as part of the package.  (Granted, I bought the lens
> later, so I don't know for sure whether it comes with the lens as part
> of a kit, but it certainly comes witt the lens when it is bought
> separately.

It does come with the lens in the kit.

Cheers,
ink
cjcampbell - 04 Aug 2006 01:29 GMT
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
>
> In the process of upgrading to a D-SLR, I've noticed that lens hoods are
> pushed very hard.

Most Nikon lenses now include a lens hood. So if you buy a Nikon lens,
you have to pay for the hood whether you want it or not.

> Is this because the different optics of a D-SLR requires them?

No. The purpose of a lens hood is to prevent bright light entering the
lens at a high angle from causing reflections on the lens elements that
show up on the picture. You see this in the row of bright reflections
cascading across some pictures. A lens designed for use on SLR cameras
might have a large number of elements, each with the potential for
catching a reflection, but you also see these complex lenses on many
other kinds of cameras.

Some photographers also use lens hoods because of the element of
protection they give to a lens, especially blowing sand and water. The
lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
lot cheaper to replace a lens hood than it is a lens! Lens hoods also
help to keep curious fingers away from the lens.

Lens hoods can cause vignetting at wide angles, especially if they are
bumped and knocked slightly askew of where they should be. They are
also one of those items (like lens caps) that are easily knocked off
the lens and broken or lost. Some lens hoods are better designed to
prevent this than others. A pro lens might have a locking mechanism on
its hood, for example, and the hood might be made of metal instead of
plastic. Lens hoods also can create a storage problem, especially on
long lenses. You will probably need a much larger case to store a lens
and hood than you would need for the lens alone, even if the hood is
reversed. Lens hoods can also interfere with on-camera flash, causing
deep shadows at the bottom of the picture.

> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

Basically. Nevertheless, I prefer to use lens hoods most of the time. I
like the protective features of lens hoods, plus I like to take
pictures of sunsets and other pictures where I am likely to get a lot
of reflections. But if you plan to use lens hoods you should be aware
of their drawbacks and limitations and plan accordingly.
Don Wiss - 04 Aug 2006 01:41 GMT
> The
>lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
>lot cheaper to replace a lens hood than it is a lens!

Yes! I dropped my 18-200 from about three feet onto asphalt. It bounced
down the driveway. The only thing that happened were dents in the lens hood
and the lens cap.

Don <www.donwiss.com/pictures/> (e-mail link at page bottoms).
cjcampbell - 04 Aug 2006 02:42 GMT
> > The
> >lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> down the driveway. The only thing that happened were dents in the lens hood
> and the lens cap.

Yeah. But are you out of intensive care yet? The hood might have
protected the lens, but it does nothing to protect your heart. :-)
Don Wiss - 04 Aug 2006 03:27 GMT
>> > The
>> >lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Yeah. But are you out of intensive care yet? The hood might have
>protected the lens, but it does nothing to protect your heart. :-)

That is correct. I was mortified.

It was my very first stop on the first day of my Ireland trip. Previously I
had been using the holster case and lens case each hooked to a belt. This
was the first time that I was using a shoulder strap with the lens case
hooked to the side of the holster case. When on the belt I hadn't been
bothering to zip up the lens case cover. But when on the shoulder strap the
weight of the lens slides it down and the lens slipped right out of the
case. Had it broken, it wouldn't have just been the money, but I would have
had to go the entire trip with only the 12-24.

For those curious about the pictures, I haven't begun to process them. I
took lots and lots of panoramas that need to be stitched first.

Don <www.donwiss.com/pictures/> (e-mail link at page bottoms).
David Kilpatrick - 04 Aug 2006 10:39 GMT
>>The
>>lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> down the driveway. The only thing that happened were dents in the lens hood
> and the lens cap.

I love posts like this. I have a database of such posts, which I can
compare in future against offers to sell lenses :-)

David
Sheldon - 05 Aug 2006 01:10 GMT
>>>The
>>>lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> hood
>> and the lens cap.

I no longer use lens caps.  Strictly use filters and hoods, "mostly" for
protection, and by not using a lens cap I can't lose it and I'm always ready
to take a photo.  Obviously there are times when you can't use a lens hood,
and there are times when a lens hood is a necessity to prevent flare.
Bill - 05 Aug 2006 03:24 GMT
>I no longer use lens caps.  Strictly use filters and hoods, "mostly" for
>protection, and by not using a lens cap I can't lose it and I'm always ready
>to take a photo.  Obviously there are times when you can't use a lens hood,
>and there are times when a lens hood is a necessity to prevent flare.

I'm sorry...I can't think of any time other than possibly shooting
against glass, like an aquarium.

Can you provide another example of when you can't use a lense hood?

Please don't say for artist value and wanting flare in the image.

:-)
default - 05 Aug 2006 20:19 GMT
Actually an aquarium is a good place to use your lens hood if it is the
conical or non-petal type.  Pressing the end of the hood tight to the glass
eliminates the surface reflections for a better view into the tank.

> I'm sorry...I can't think of any time other than possibly shooting
> against glass, like an aquarium.
>
> Can you provide another example of when you can't use a lense hood?
>
> Please don't say for artist value and wanting flare in the image.
DoN. Nichols - 05 Aug 2006 21:18 GMT
According to default <defaultname@hotmail.com>:

> > I'm sorry...I can't think of any time other than possibly shooting
> > against glass, like an aquarium.
> >
> > Can you provide another example of when you can't use a lense hood?

    The following examples are with the Nikon D70, but probably
apply to most other DSLRs with built-in (pop-up) flash.

    When shooting macro range shots illuminated by the built-in
flash -- the lens hood shadows a large part of the image when really
close.  (A particular problem with the 28-105mm Nikkor in macro mode.)
Even without the lens hood, there is some shadowing.

    And with the 18-70mm kit lens, full wide, and built-in flash,
the lens hood casts a shadow even at reasonable distances.

    But -- since it is a bayonet mount, it is easy to remove for the
purpose and then replace.

    Granted -- if you have the separate flash along, it is high
enough so there is no problem in either situation.

    Of course, with indoor shots with on-camera flash -- there is
little to no *need* for the lens hood.  However, if you have additional
off-camera flash in use, you still could get at least veiling flare.

> > Please don't say for artist value and wanting flare in the image.

    [ ... ]

> Actually an aquarium is a good place to use your lens hood if it is the
> conical or non-petal type.  Pressing the end of the hood tight to the glass
> eliminates the surface reflections for a better view into the tank.

    Of course, this limits your choice of angles to one -- at right
angles to the glass.  Here is where a gimbal mounted lens hood would be
nice.  The collapsible rubber hoods will reduce the problem
significantly here.

    Enjoy,
        DoN.
Signature

Email:   <dnichols@d-and-d.com>   | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
    (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
          --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Bill - 06 Aug 2006 00:08 GMT
>Actually an aquarium is a good place to use your lens hood if it is the
>conical or non-petal type.  Pressing the end of the hood tight to the glass
>eliminates the surface reflections for a better view into the tank.

But you can do the same thing with most lenses - the front elements do
not stick out past the front of the lense housing. That's the way I
shoot against glass.

The front elements of my lenses do not rotate or extend when focusing,
so I just gently press against the glass, frame, focus, and shoot.
David Kilpatrick - 06 Aug 2006 11:09 GMT
> Actually an aquarium is a good place to use your lens hood if it is the
> conical or non-petal type.  Pressing the end of the hood tight to the glass
> eliminates the surface reflections for a better view into the tank.

Even better one of those no-longer fashionable rubber hoods. Just press
against the glass, but still be able to angle your camera as you wish.

David
default - 06 Aug 2006 17:29 GMT
> Even better one of those no-longer fashionable rubber hoods. Just press
> against the glass, but still be able to angle your camera as you wish.

That's an excellent idea.  Those are cheap too.  I think I'll get one of
those.
Don Wiss - 05 Aug 2006 05:05 GMT
>>>>The
>>>>lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>protection, and by not using a lens cap I can't lose it and I'm always ready
>to take a photo.

I don't use lens caps at the outer end either. But the cap that I was
writing about was the one on the end of the lens that goes into the camera.
You use that one, don't you?

Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom).
cjcampbell - 05 Aug 2006 02:44 GMT
> >>The
> >>lens hood can also absorb much of the impact of a dropped lens. It is a
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> I love posts like this. I have a database of such posts, which I can
> compare in future against offers to sell lenses :-)

:-)
> David
Matt - 04 Aug 2006 03:00 GMT
If you shoot in Raw, vignetting, the dark shadow halo that appears at
the edges of the frame can be removed easily in Photoshop's Raw menu
bar. All you have to do is slide a slider after you click on the
Vignetting tab.
Matt  http://digitalartphotographyfordummies.blogspot.com
> Lens hoods can cause vignetting at wide angles, especially if they are
> bumped and knocked slightly askew of where they should be. They are
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> of reflections. But if you plan to use lens hoods you should be aware
> of their drawbacks and limitations and plan accordingly.
cjcampbell - 04 Aug 2006 03:38 GMT
> If you shoot in Raw, vignetting, the dark shadow halo that appears at
> the edges of the frame can be removed easily in Photoshop's Raw menu
> bar. All you have to do is slide a slider after you click on the
> Vignetting tab.

That depends on how bad the vignetting is. Usually vignetting caused by
a crooked lens hood appears in only one half the picture and sometimes
the corners are very dark -- you are actually looking at the hood.
Photoshop is good, but it does not have x-ray vision.

Mitigating the effects of vignetting is not the same as having a good
corner to corner picture that needs no adjustments. No adjustment will
restore missing details.
nick c - 04 Aug 2006 02:33 GMT
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

Some dealers push lens hoods and some don't. The dealers I deal with
don't. However, I use lens hoods because they do what they are designed
to do and besides that, imo, they are better lens protectors than UV
filters. Exception being when I'm confronted with winds blowing dirt
swirls, beach scenes, or inclement weather. Then I may use both a UV
filter and a lens hood. All my lenses have appropriate lens hoods and I
don't leave home without them.
donharper@theedgephotography.com - 04 Aug 2006 04:08 GMT
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> --
> Larry Stoter

I've not seen that lens hoods are pushed to any greater extent than for
35mm lenses.
However, the quality of image improvement afforded by a lens hood is
signficant.
Preventing stray light from hitting the lens is a key to good color
saturation and proper contrast.

I think you will be hard put to find a professional photographer who
doesn't use lens hoods as much as possible. I'm talking about people
who buy only what's necessary and not sales hype.
Controlling light is a key to good photography, it's why in the studio
we use accordian lens shades, and further restrict stray light with
different deflectors, etc.

As mentioned by others it also can save a front element from contact
with something that might damage it.
My last time was a goat that was trying to get to the lens, but his
nose wouldn't fit into the hood.

If you want to save money, look at a generic hood instead of the
manufacturers, look for used shades, they don't need to look nice, only
be the right configuration for your lens to maximize shielding and not
create vignetting.

Don Harper
The Edge Photography Studio
Leesburg, Va.

We also teach workshops and classes in photography.
Jeremy Nixon - 04 Aug 2006 05:23 GMT
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

The purpose of a lens hood is to block non-image-forming light from hitting
the lens.  This reduces flare -- both the kind you're thinking of, that
causes the familiar flare pattern of light spots, and the kind you're
not thinking of, veiling flare, which reduces overall image contrast
and makes your pictures look softer.

A hood also offers protection for the front of your lens, with no down side
(unlike a clear filter, which has a negative optical effect).

I use hoods all the time.  As one good example, the Nikon 50mm f/1.2
suffers greatly from veiling flare, which is why it has a reputation of
being soft; a hood helps it a lot.  I wouldn't think of using that lens
without a hood, but with one, it's excellent.

With the smaller sensors of (most) digital SLRs, you can also get away
with a much longer hood than you could when shooting with the same lens
on 35mm film.  On the aforementioned 50mm, using the hood Nikon makes
for 50mm lenses is not ideal.  You want a longer hood.  I have two metal
hoods I use for my 50mm lenses -- one of them is the HN-8 hood Nikon
made for the 105/2.5, 135/3.5, and 105/4 manual lenses.  This was the
longest metal hood I could find in 52mm screw-mount.  With the DX
sensor this hood works great with a 50mm lens.  (Which suggests that
it was too short for 105mm in the first place.)

Signature

Jeremy  |  jeremy@exit109.com

DHB - 04 Aug 2006 14:39 GMT
>> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
>> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>sensor this hood works great with a 50mm lens.  (Which suggests that
>it was too short for 105mm in the first place.)

Jeremy Nixon,
          I could not agree with you more.  Few people seem
to consider using a longer lens hood or even any lens hood on a 50mm
lens.  I now have 2 Canon 1.6x crop factored DSLRs (300D &30D) & I am
amazed @ just how long of a lens hood can be used on a 50mm lens with
less than full frame sensors DSLRs.

    Here is a vendor that I have purchased from in the past & have
been pleased with their speed & prices.  You may want to consider them
for use in purchasing metal "spacer rings", available in 49, 52, 55 or
58mm lens treads & used as lens hood extensions.  They sell 1" & 1.5"
long "spacer rings" & you can stack them if you need something longer.

http://www.camerafilters.com/pages/cg.aspx

    These tubes are black, thick aluminum but are somewhat
reflective so depending on your needs you may want to spray the inside
with flat black paint.  For the price they are hard to beat however.

    I use a 1.5" tube (52mm thread) on my Canon 50mm f1.8 mkII
lens & it does make it look strange especially if I also add a HOYA
rubber lens hood onto it but it works just fine.  What my camera gear
looks like is of very little concern to me, the results are my main
concern.  Yes I have also had people make snide comments about the
homemade translucent piece of plastic I use on my 420EX flash & the
rubber band that attaches it but it provides just enough diffused fill
flash to make a noticeable difference when most of the light is being
bounced off the ceiling or a nearby white wall.

    Hope this is of interest or use to you or somebody else.

    Respectfully,  DHB
 

     
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918
Avery - 04 Aug 2006 07:35 GMT
>I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
>hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
>Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

If you really want to save money, try these, they work quite well.....

http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/
k-man - 04 Aug 2006 11:10 GMT
Many guys just block on the sun with their hand instead of using a hood
and do so only on occasion even with a digital camera.  Recently, I
bought a 12-24 Dx lens (made for digital -- Nikon, in this case).  The
mfr instructions that came with the lens itself said that for this lens
one should use the included hood at all times, even indoors.  I think
it was just because that the lens was wide, though, not because of that
it was for use with digital.  With a wider lens, you're more likely to
pick up stray light.  So I think the use of a hood here makes sense.
Though, I use a hood for all my shots anyway except for with my 105
f/2.8 D macro, which kinda has a hood built-in just because of how the
lens is designed.  I've used hoods with my film camera, too.  Sometimes
I might not really need them.  But I just use them all the time anyway
to have one less factor to think about when composing a shot.

Kevin

> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?
Paul J Gans - 06 Aug 2006 23:37 GMT
>Many guys just block on the sun with their hand instead of using a hood
>and do so only on occasion even with a digital camera.  Recently, I
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>I might not really need them.  But I just use them all the time anyway
>to have one less factor to think about when composing a shot.

I agree completely.  If you look at your 12-24mm lens on the
camera without the lens hood on you can estimate how far off-axis
a light source can be and still have light hit the lens.

On mine the light source can be more than 90 degrees off axis.

Any unwanted light that hits the lens *can* cause flair.

In my opinion the most sensitive lenses are the wide-angle
ones.  The effect is much less with telephotos, but there
are good reasons for using a lens hood there too.

   --- Paul J. Gans
Alan Browne - 04 Aug 2006 12:33 GMT
> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?

Lens hoods are a simple and practical means to protecting from direct
light getting at the lens which will create flare and lower contrast.
They also give a little more depth protection to the lens against
accidental scratches to the front element (or filter).

Cheers,
Alan

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jab - 04 Aug 2006 17:56 GMT
I used to have a lens hood, but in order to utilize my circular
polarizer that had a knob on it required removing the hood because the
filter would not fit with the hood on. Needless to say, someone else has
my lens hood if they picked it up where I left it.

JAB

> I've been using a SLR for years and have never bothered with 'lens
> hoods', except on a 300 mm telephoto, where the lens hood is built-in.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Or is this because they are a quick and easy, high-margin extra?
David Kilpatrick - 04 Aug 2006 19:43 GMT
> I used to have a lens hood, but in order to utilize my circular
> polarizer that had a knob on it required removing the hood because the
> filter would not fit with the hood on. Needless to say, someone else has
> my lens hood if they picked it up where I left it.

I like my Minolta 70-200mm SSM 2.8 - the lens hood has a hatch which
opens to let you turn your polariser!

David
 
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