Hi Randy!
I store on DVD's (would be same for CD's)
I use my Epson Stylus Photo R300 to print the title on the DVD.
I include both originals and touched up photos.
The title reads somewhat like this:
For one series: 06-07-05_title or could be this way: 2006-07-05_title
For many series: 2004-03 to 2006-07 family photos
Essentially, you try to ensure that in the future, you can easily know in
which DVD you will find what you're looking for. I chose dates and a title.
Hope this helps,
Marcel

I use a slick piece of software for color labeling called "Sharpie".
It allows for an almost unlimited number of designs and any font you
care to use, if you have the ability to produce it.  The working end of
the Sharpie system is very soft and works quite well.

Hardware labeling system, use as "Ball Point" risk damaging the disks.
The working end is much too hard.

"Sharpie" is reasonably cheap (but unfortunately not freeware) and
widely available.  This system works rapidly and requires few computer
resources.

One could consider it an almost "low tech" option.

The first thing I do after I get home from a shoot is to download my
digital images into an appropriate labeled folder on my hard drive.
Next I burn a CD-R or a DVD-R or DVD+R. (Do not archive to a CD-RW or a
DVD-RW.) Then I open Photoshop Bridge and start to process the images.

Do keep in mind that the most vulnerable part of a CD or DVD to
chemical attack is the TOP! Do not use a Sharpie or a felt tip pen. Do
not use a self stick lable in that it to can chemically damage the thin
protective lawer on the top of the CD or DVD.

For labeling the CD or DVD, use a special marking pen made by Delkin
under the name of eFilm. It is a solvent free black pen made just for
archived CD and DVDs.

When burning a CD or DVD, run at a slower speed so as to asure a "deep"
pit. For really important work, special CD and DVDs that use gold as
opposed to an aluminum substrate are desirable. They are also made by
Delkin and found at B&H. Also other brands are available at
datamediastore.com.

Use the same procedure for your finished images. However, save them as
TIFF or PSD files as apposed to JPEGs. Even though a JPEG will not lose
any detail on the CD, it will on your HD. Every time you open a JPEG
and resave it, compression losses occur.

Hope this helps.

Gene

I'd contend that CDs (or DVDs) are a poor way to archive photos.
How long do you expect a home-burnt disk to be readable?  10 years?  20
years?
Will you still have the software to read a propriatory RAW format in 20
years time?
The only way to ensure digital data is preserved is to keep copying it
to new media and possibly new file formats.  How likely are you to do
that if it involves feeding disk after disk into a reader?
Better to get a decent size hard drive on your PC and a similar size
external removable hard drive for backups.  That way when the time
comes to copy that data across you can do it all in one go.  Sure it
will take a while but you can just kick off the copy and let it run for
however many hours or days it takes.
A 200GB drive will let you take 5x10MB images every day for 10 years,
why mess around with CDs?

You could always send your images to PhotoMax.  They have a digital
Photo-Saver where they create the CD or DVD's for you.  Plus, you can
archive your files forever on their server.  They back-up their servers
daily and keep it in a granite vault.

To set up a free account go to dvoris.myphotomax.com.  You will get 20
4x6 and 1 8x10 FREE when you set up an account.

Debi