Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
PhotoKB Home
Discussion Groups
Digital Photography
Digital PhotoDSLR CamerasZLR CamerasPoint & Shoot Cameras
Film Photography
35 mmLarge FormatMedium formatDarkroomFilm and LabsOther Equipment
Photo Technique
Nature PhotographyPeople PhotographyTechnique General
General Photo Topics
General TopicsAustralian PhotographyUK Photography
DirectoryPhoto Clubs

Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / May 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Fine art and D70s

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Vladislav - 30 May 2006 01:59 GMT
What should be considered as a main issue for fine art shooting?
with my best reagrds, Vladislav
http://www.terekhoff.com
RichA - 30 May 2006 05:55 GMT
Talent?
Ken Davey - 30 May 2006 06:52 GMT
> Talent?

AND technical excellence!

Ken.

Signature

Volunteer your idle computer time for cancer research
http//www.grid.org/download/gold/download.htm
Return address courtesy of Spammotel http://www.spammotel.com/ 

J. Clarke - 30 May 2006 10:50 GMT
>> Talent?
>
> AND technical excellence!

Same way you get to Carnegie Hall.  Practice.

Signature

--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Bigguy - 30 May 2006 12:26 GMT
Do you mean create 'fine art' with camera OR...
take pictures of 'fine art' with camera.

If the second one then:
Use a mid length telephoto (or zoom) - approx 100 - 150mm - this will
minmise lens distortions.
Use a very solid tripod.
Align lens to point at cetre of 'art' and at 90deg to 'art' - this will
minimise perspective distortions.
Use a small aperture - f8,f11 ish
Use a cable release -mirror lockup if you have it

Lighting - God's own daylight is best - indirect diffuse 'North' light.
Avoid glass over pictures if possible - if not possible then clean glass
well and try a polarising filter.

If artificial light must be used then light from both sides at 45 degrees
with a soft, diffuse source.
Check colour temperature / white balance.

Take an incident light reading, use grey card or adjust using camera
histogram (this does not always show all three colours).
Maybe bracket +-1/2 and +-1 stops - depends on how much 'art' you have to
photograph.

Take a few shots of a Gretag Macbeth or other colour reference chart..

If you have lots to photograph setup something to hold the pictures and
bring them to the setup camera + lights.

Guy

> What should be considered as a main issue for fine art shooting?
> with my best reagrds, Vladislav
> http://www.terekhoff.com
Vladislav - 30 May 2006 14:55 GMT
Thank you !!! Exactly what i need , and please give more detail about
shot mode - are you using an Aperture priority ? and what about
sharpness mode?
Bigguy - 30 May 2006 15:50 GMT
Use Manual mode - aperature f8 - f16, shutter speed from incident light or
grey card reading.
This will allow correct exposure to be made from dark or light artwork... a
pencil drawing on white paper will under expose using the camera's meter and
a very dark painting will overexpose... reading from a grey card or
measuring incident light with a handheld meter gives an accurate reading
whatever the subjects tonality.
Aperture Priority will allow the camera to shoose the exposure and thus be
wrong! Stick to Manual mode.

If using daylight take regular readings as lighting can change with time...

I would shoot RAW mode and do any sharpening later in Photoshop... amount
depends on the camera - some do more in-camera sharpening than others...
shooting RAW can eliminate any need to bracket exposures too...

Guy

> Thank you !!! Exactly what i need , and please give more detail about
> shot mode - are you using an Aperture priority ? and what about
> sharpness mode?
tomm42 - 30 May 2006 18:20 GMT
50 or 60mm macro is the best lens, if using zooms (not recommended)
then use mid telphoto range 100-150mm, and have it in the midrange of
the zoom, or a 90-105 macro. The 50 or 60 macros give flat field and a
decent working distance (still a little long really with film they were
perfect). Shooting a 4'x6' painting, with a midranged tele you'd need a
large studio. I also prefer tungsten lights or strobes. North light is
too high a color temperature, too blue. Polarizing filters on lights
and the camera also help, oils especially can be very reflective. My
set up was generally 4 Lowel Totalights on 2 stands, polarizing filters
aligned on  each light. Polarizer on the camera and the camera aligned
with the painting XYandZ axis. This is sometimes tough.
This can get hot and sweaty, strobes are nice but their color temps
vary too.

Tom
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.