Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / June 2006
Help to decide a lens or two.
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Nachtmusik2006@gmail.com - 27 May 2006 07:45 GMT Hi all, After months of reading reviews and such - I decided to buy a Canon EOS350D/Digital Rebel XT body. As shown in dpreview, I found the cropped-out image details in higher ISOs better compared to other available alternatives. Now, I do not have enough budget to buy L series lenses. I can spend upto $400, to which I have found two options. 1. Tamron AF 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 XR Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) MACRO - have read lots of good review about this one. 2. Canon 18-55/3.5-5.6 EF-S USM EOS + Canon 55-200/4.5-5.6 EF II USM - default option. Can you please suggest which one is better? Or anything else? I am an enthusiastic beginner who likes to carry the camera and take candid street photographs, cityscapes and landscapes.
Thanks in advance. Steve.
G.T. - 27 May 2006 07:55 GMT > Hi all, > After months of reading reviews and such - I decided to buy a Canon [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > enthusiastic beginner who likes to carry the camera and take candid > street photographs, cityscapes and landscapes. I used my 18-55 for quite awhile but the 55-200 was so soft and crappy that I used it a couple of times and sold it. I'd check around for reviews of the Tamron and if they don't sound worse than the Canons I'd go with it. My main lens is the Tamron 24-135.
Greg
 Signature "All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons
w.beckley@gmail.com - 27 May 2006 12:18 GMT Get the Canon 28mm f/1.8 prime. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.
You're looking at some zoom lenses that all have rather sketchy reputations. Even if the Tamron lens is good "for what it is," what it is involves a great deal of sacrifice. 6.3 is ridiculously slow, but even 3.5 is coming near to the limit of even being considered "all-purpose."
You're an enthusiastic beginner, so trust me when I say that you should begin as most "enthusiastic beginners" have historically: with a fast normal prime. You may think a prime lens would be limiting, but in reality it will limit you far less than a slow lens will. 28mm for the Rebel makes for a slightly-wide normal lens, literally ideal for street photography, and useful in landscape applications as well. It is fast and has quick and accurate USM and full-time manual focusing capabilities. I had three superb lenses, including some L glass, but since buying the 28/1.8 a few months back, it has been rare that I've used anything else. It is fast and light and is perfect to just walk around town with.
Most importantly, it will force you to make decisions about what you like to shoot and how you like to shoot. Right now, you likely don't really know. And though it might seem logical to allow yourself "every" opportunity by buying zooms, in reality you'll become a better photographer and learn what you need to get in the future by starting out with a nice normal and determining where you find that to be lacking.
I shot for over a year with my first camera and the ridiculous slow superzoom that I bought for it, despite the recommendations of others. But I didn't have any "great" photographs until I invested in a fast 50mm prime. You know how I used that superzoom? At its widest, or at its longest. Now when I shoot with a zoom, I'm picking numerous focal lengths, not just the extremes. And I'm picking them because now, finally, I understand what they mean and how they affect my work.
Do yourself a favor and grow into a zoom (or not... primes are great). Start with a normal prime.
Will
PS: If this is seeming like bad medicine, look into the 35mm f/2.0, because it will give you similar results (though no USM and lesser optics) and it is cheap. But give yourself the option of something normalish and fast (and light), because you'll learn more and be able to do more.
Roger N. Clark (change username to rnclark) - 27 May 2006 16:28 GMT > Get the Canon 28mm f/1.8 prime. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. > [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > normalish and fast (and light), because you'll learn more and be able > to do more. In general I agree. Another thing to look at with zooms and especially 3rd party zooms is minimum focus distance. Often 3rd party can be good quality for zooms, but the minimum focus distance is reduced. I had some sigma lenses (decade or so ago) that were pretty sharp, but I was continually frustrated by the minimum focus distance. They are cheaper because something had to be compromised.
As to fast primes, do you really need f/1.8 or f/2? Optically wide angles are not that sharp wide open, so unless you are shooting in very low light or have a very shallow depth of field situation, you would stop down for better quality anyway.
The canon 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8 and 50mm f/1.8 are good lenses at very low cost. Use your kit lens zoom when you want a zoom, and the primes when you want quality. Personally, I use a 28-135 mm IS zoom, 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8, 50 mm f/1.8 II, and longer lenses.
Digital cameras require sharper lenses: the spatial resolution of a digital rebel sensor is similar to the finest grained color slide films, so using good lenses will make a difference.
Roger Photos at: http://www.clarkvision.com
achilleaslazarides@yahoo.co.uk - 31 May 2006 02:27 GMT Well if the ultimate resolution is what you want, wait until this is developed for optical wavelengths: http://prola.aps.org/abstract/PRL/v85/i18/p3966_1 (lots of more work on this by the same author and collaborators on the arxiv).
achilleaslazarides@yahoo.co.uk - 31 May 2006 03:11 GMT > Well if the ultimate resolution is what you want, wait until this is > developed for optical wavelengths: > http://prola.aps.org/abstract/PRL/v85/i18/p3966_1 > (lots of more work on this by the same author and collaborators on the > arxiv). I forgot to mention that you should really read also the comment by Gerard t'Hooft on this (and other comments too)
w.beckley@gmail.com - 01 Jun 2006 02:33 GMT > As to fast primes, do you really need f/1.8 or f/2? Optically > wide angles are not that sharp wide open, so unless you are > shooting in very low light or have a very shallow depth > of field situation, you would stop down for better quality > anyway. My argument would simply be that with a 1.8, you get the opportunity to shoot in those low light situations and you get the opportunity to achieve that very shallow depth of field, and you get sharper images when shooting st 2.8 (as opposed to being wide open at 2.8). I think these added options will mean alot more to a developing photographer than added focal lengths will, in the long run.
The 28mm 1.8 prime doesn't test very well *for full frame*. On my 20D, I've observed nothing wrong, even at 1.8. I think it suffers mostly from vignetting and corner softness, neither of which matter on a cropped sensor. For a 5D, 1Ds, or a film camera, I probably wouldn't recommend it, but on those bodies it also doesn't do what I'm plugging it for: a fast normal. For that purpose on a 1.6 cropped sensor, I think it is a fantastic lens.
Will
pat - 29 May 2006 03:33 GMT Thanks for your comments, I am currently looking at replacements for the kit lens on my 350D and your views are very interesting.
I had a look at the results on photozone.de for the EF 28mm f/1.8 USM and the performance isn't that great for a prime. Do you agree with the test results with your work in real life?
I am currently leaning towards the EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM - according to the test results it's razor sharp, with a fairly useful focal range and a reasonable price. The major failing is the CA's but they can be fixed in PS. Maybe this is a possibility for the OP also, however if anyone has used this lens maybe they could post their experiences.
Paul Furman - 29 May 2006 04:48 GMT > Get the Canon 28mm f/1.8 prime. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. This is a good idea. I started with a 28-200 f/3.5-5.6 & was frustrated to not be getting the best quality, especially on the long end. I agree with Roger as well that f/1.8 isn't crucial but 2.8 is a world different than 3.5 or 6. And my first thought with your described shooting intents is that you don't need a long telephoto. AND a fixed normal lens is small so it's easy to carry around and discrete for street shooting. AND you mentioned high ISO which means low light and a faster lens gets you better low light performance. AND it gives you a brighter viewfinder so you can really control what you are doing. AND it'll let you really play with and learn about depth of field because it lets you blur out the background for portraits which is much harder to do on a slow cheap zoom. That's not possible on a P&S pocket camera either so it's something you should be enjoying. Another thing I didn't expect when I got a nice fast fixed lens is the colors and contrast are really great. It makes my old 28-200 shots look muddy and is even noticeably better than a really nice expensive long telephoto zoom I got in between. Things just sparkle & gleam in that baby. AND with the ability to blur the background, the bokeh quality matters more; that's another thing that can really mess up shots and another hidden cut corner that you miss out on. AND many of those wide fixed lenses will focus quite close up for 'macro' work.
> You're looking at some zoom lenses that all have rather sketchy > reputations. Even if the Tamron lens is good "for what it is," what it [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > normalish and fast (and light), because you'll learn more and be able > to do more. Dave - 27 May 2006 17:23 GMT I have the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. I leave it on my Camera as a general purpose lens. It seems to do the job for my needs.
You'll want to decide what area of photography you want to focus on (if you haven't already, and excuse the pun). If you like close up photography, then spend the money on a good macro lens. If you like to shoot animals in the wild, then go for a good telephoto.
> Hi all, > After months of reading reviews and such - I decided to buy a Canon [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Thanks in advance. > Steve. default - 27 May 2006 22:36 GMT >I have the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. I leave it on my >Camera as a general purpose lens. It seems to do the job for my needs. Would you mind posting a picture of this lens? I'd love to see it. At this end of the world, Canon doesn't include IS, and USM is a fairly expensive option for the 18-55mm, more than doubling the price. Where did you buy yours?
G.T. - 28 May 2006 06:38 GMT >>I have the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. I leave it on my >>Camera as a general purpose lens. It seems to do the job for my needs. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > option for the 18-55mm, more than doubling the price. Where did you buy > yours? I assume he means the newer 17-55, I think these are all the EF-Ss:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-Lens-Reviews.aspx
At least in this part of the world?
 Signature "All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons
default - 28 May 2006 07:31 GMT >>>I have the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. I leave it on my >>>Camera as a general purpose lens. It seems to do the job for my needs. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-Lens-Reviews.aspx I don't think so as he was very specific that it was the "EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM". The new EF-S 17-55mm is constant f/2.8. The 17-55 looks like a pretty nice lens though, although at nearly 10x the price of the 18-55 (non usm version), it is not so much better enough to justify the pricing if the reviews at Photozone are accurate. IS is a fantastic invention though so maybe it is justified. 17mm, f/2.8 and a 3 stop image stabilizer would allow a workable shutter speed in pretty low light without resorting to flash.
17-55mm: http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/canon_1755_28/index.htm
18-55mm: http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/canon_1855_3556/index.htm
but much better than the 17-85mm: http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/canon_1785_456_is/index.htm
Ruman - 01 Jun 2006 12:13 GMT > Hi all, > After months of reading reviews and such - I decided to buy a Canon [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Thanks in advance. > Steve. I think 18-200 VR bundled with Nikon D50 would be a much better option at $1200. I always found Rebel XT too small for my hand; since you are not buying the additional grip (BG-E3 I think), I say you go to the store to feel the camera first before making any sort of decision. About DPReview, I have seen bad noisy images from Rebel XT with L glasses at ISO 1600 in broad daylight as well, so don't let Phil's studio images be the primary decision makers for you. On the other hand, 18-200 VR is an excellent glass, been the top seller in Amazon ever since it became available. You can always upgrade the body to D200 or something later, which combined with the VR lens, would be a very good setup.
Wolfgang Weisselberg - 02 Jun 2006 21:22 GMT > About DPReview, I have seen bad noisy images from Rebel XT with L > glasses at ISO 1600 in broad daylight as well, Lenses cannot help noise. ISO 1600 tends to produce noise. (And I bet the D200 isn't any better.)
Using ISO 1600 in broad daylight means that you are using much too slow lenses or too long ones without even a monopod, or a bad photographer. And producing bad images is not the fault of the camera.
-Wolfgang
JPS@no.komm - 02 Jun 2006 22:58 GMT >ISO 1600 tends to produce noise. More accurately, ISO 1600 tends to meter for shorter exposures and/or smaller apertures, which reduce the signal-to-noise ratio in the sensor. ISO 100 with the same aperture and shutter speed would "produce" far more noise.
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<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< Wolfgang Weisselberg - 05 Jun 2006 18:55 GMT >>ISO 1600 tends to produce noise.
> More accurately, ISO 1600 tends to meter for shorter exposures and/or > smaller apertures, Obviously. Otherwise, you'd have a nicely overexposured image.
> which reduce the signal-to-noise ratio in the sensor. > ISO 100 with the same aperture and shutter speed would "produce" far > more noise. ISO 100 with _appropriate_ aperture and shutter speed would have less noise, but it might give problems without a tripod. And the object may move around a bit too much.
-Wolfgang
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