I'm with you; a flash meter isn't nearly as important as it used to be
for studio lighting setups, if you're using a digital camera.  As you
say, test shots and histogram give you all the information the meter
did and more.  I recently moved my Gossen Luna Pro F *out* of my
working bag, finally, after about 6 years of digital shooting in which
I'd never used it.  Remember, it's fairly small and light, and there
wasn't anything else clamoring for the space it took in the bag (or I
probably would have moved it much earlier).

I guess "good enough" only depends on how critical or casual you might
be, but that is an entirely different discussion then.

It is wrong to equate histograms and exposure, because they are not the
same thing at all.  All a histogram tells you is if your highlights are
blown out (you really dont have a clue about the rest of the data).  
Exposure puts gray things in the middle, whether you have any gray
things or not, or any highlights either.  This is very different.

What if you want specular highlights in a product shot?  What about low
key shots?  If only using a histogram, at least throw a white towel into
the test shot, so you have one little clue what the data represents.

What about controlling lighting ratio of key to fill light?  What about
controling the level of the background?   Heck, what about gamma?
(increasing flash/exposure 2x will not move the right edge of data from
128 to 255).  Histograms and correct exposure are simply different
concepts.   Flash meters are certainly convenient in the studio.

Plus that little coarse 2" LCD just aint the same to judge the final
results either.

You're basically just using the camera as a meter.  If it works for you by
all means go for it.

I cannot live without my meter.....I regularly balance 4 strobes,
reflectors, and shoot digital....Its FASTER to use a meter if you are
doing things critically....Say you want to shoot the scene at f/11 for
sharpness and appropriate DOF....you need to balance all your light some
at f/16, some at f/8, etc...if you just set your camera and look at the
histogram then you dont see your lighting ratios, and what if the ratios
look ok, but you are at f/5.6, how do you change your ratios
appropriately....If you use your meter correctly, you will be very fast
and much more accurate.  If you are using 1 or 2 light and just want a
good exposure then by all means use your method.  Also the histogram
wont tell you what your ratios are like, you must LOOK at the image on
the LCD...which is not very accurate at all and can vary wildly
depending on your viewing conditions and your LCD settings....A meter
doesnt lie and isnt that easily fooled.

JR
http://www.johnrhonephoto.com/V3/index.html

Just because you can pull the image out of the RAW file doesn't mean it's
optimal. Just like the exposure latitude print film has, the range isn't
equal in quality from one end to the other. If it works for you, I'm not
going to argue but when I have time, I still use a hand held meter before I
shoot.

I always use a meter as a starting point, it saves time over shooting,
checking the histo, shooting again, checking histo...  Meter, shoot, check
histo, get to work...

If you're familiar enough with your lights, a "wild" guess should be
unnecessary - you should be able to get pretty close on the first try.

You're missing the real point of metering studio lights which is not
overall exposure, but control of ratios to achieve specific lighting
effects.  Be these dramatic 8:1 lighting ratios, 4:1 portraits, blown
out or subdued backgrounds or other, the use of a meter is the proper
tool for advanced lighting.

In effect you are metering.  You're just using the camera as a meter (of
sorts).

Studio shooters have long used Polaroid test shots to evaluate the
overall effect of the lighting, to look for unintended hot spots, flare
or shaddows; etc.  The Polaroid has simply been replaced by the digital
camera ... including for film shooting in the studio.

But to say "Meters are for suckers" is to say that you know how to get a
dynamic range approriate exposure, but you know little about lighting.

The light appeal of a photo does not come from getting the exposure
"right" but from getting the lighting right.  These are two very
different things.

http://www.pbase.com/shootin/image/57538102 required metering the VU
lights as well as three strobes with two different colors.
http://www.pbase.com/shootin/image/54268496 backlight to foreground
metering.
http://www.pbase.com/shootin/image/53173364 background to subject metering.
http://www.pbase.com/shootin/image/48370148 three lights, different colors
http://www.pbase.com/shootin/image/44374694 backligting to highlight
lighting.  (this is a screwed up shot).
http://www.pbase.com/shootin/image/36669126 incident lighting (subject)
to backlighting (reflection).

Cheers,
Alan