According to Buy_Sell <werkspace@hotmail.com>:
> Hi Jack, ( better not say that on an aircraft these days...)
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> no post processing. The camera works beautifully now. Natural
> lighting, the way it should be...
Hmm ... are you using it in "Auto" mode? I tend to prefer
"Program" mode -- unless I want to manually control aperture, shutter
speed, or both. I use the Program mode and get quite good results,
sometimes after adjusting the exposure boost/cut "[+/-]" button after
examining the histogram -- depending on what the lighting conditions
are, and what degree of "spot" metering I am using.
Also -- if you turn on "Auto ISO" mode, you can cover a much
greater range of illumination with a given lens. At the extremes (e.g.
1600 ISO) there will be an increase in digital noise -- but that is not
as objectionable as the increase in grain pushing a B&W film to that
speed -- and you continue to get color.
>> Jack Black - Sun, Apr 9 2006 3:53 pm
>>
>> Hi, all!! Long-time film guy (both 35mm and Medium Format), and I've
>> been toying with the idea of getting a Nikon D70s body for use with
>> some existing AF and MF lenses, and want searching for some input
>> beyond what I've already read on DPReview.com.
O.K. Note that the manual focus lenses will probably require
you to also manually control the exposure (the metering does not work
with a lens without a "chip" -- though I did have a chip added to a
180mm f2.8 Nikkor and am quite pleased with that.
>> My main concern is losing the use of a couple of my favorite AF lenses,
>> currently used on my workhorse F4s and FM3A. I have a Tokina 28-80
>> AF-X Pro f/2.8 lens that I use 80% of the time: losing the use of this
>> lens might ("might") be a deal breaker, but I'm open to comments and
>> suggestions.
As another followup has already indicated -- you might not be
using the 28-80 as much with the D70s -- depending on where in the zoom
range you normally shoot. It will have the same coverage as a 42-120mm
lens. You might do better to use this new body with the normal "kit"
lens for the D70 and D70s -- the "DX 18-70mm f3.5-4.5G ED", which will
give you coverage equivalent to 27-105mm. Of course, that lens will not
work on your film bodies, as it is designed to cover the 1.5 crop factor
sensor in the Digital bodies, so you can leave your Tokina with the film
bodies and be able to shoot both in about the same range at the same
time.
had a nice 28-105mm lens which I expected to use with my D70
when I bought it "body only", and while it is an excellent lens, I
eventually wound up buying the kit lens to cover the wide angle range
which I was missing. And the kit lens is a *very* nice lens for the
price -- probably better than the Tokina.
>> Will I still be able to use the new Matrix Metering with
>> this lens?
That depends. I forget which brand of third-party lens decided
that they could do just as well by reverse-engineering the
communications protocol of the Nikon chips -- and wound up with a lens
which had to have the chip upgraded when new camera bodies came out.
Was it Tokina, Sigma, or some other brand? Someone here will probably
supply this information.
>> If not, what kind of metering will be available with this
>> lens?
That depends on the chip in the lens.
>> Other lenses I'm concerned about losing are the Nikon 50mm f/1.4
>> AF
I'm using one of these, and getting excellent results with it.
Remember that it will supply coverage equivalent to a 75mm lens on a
full sized 35mm frame.
>> and a Vivitar 100-400 AF f/4.5.
This will probably work. I don't have one, so I can't say what
it will do.
Where you have to *really* jump through hoops is with lenses old
enough to not have the AI (Aperture Indexed) aperture ring, which means
that you can't mount the lens on the camera body until some
modifications have been performed to the aperture ring to clear sensors
on the camera body. But all of these lenses were pre-AF anyway, so this
should not apply to your lenses.
I hope that this helps,
DoN.

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Buy_Sell - 11 Apr 2006 02:06 GMT
Hi Don
I prefer using manual mode. The Auto ISO is turned off. I've tried
using it but I'm not crazy about the results. The ISO is set to 400
most of the time. The custom tonal curve feature was the biggest
improvement in my camera.
-------------------------------------------------------------
DoN. Nichols - Mon, Apr 10 2006 5:57 pm
According to Buy_Sell <werksp...@hotmail.com>:
> I bought the D70s last year. The batteries last a really long time
> between charges, I was impressed. My favorite low cost lens is the
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> no post processing. The camera works beautifully now. Natural
> lighting, the way it should be...
Hmm ... are you using it in "Auto" mode? I tend to prefer
"Program" mode -- unless I want to manually control aperture, shutter
speed, or both. I use the Program mode and get quite good results,
sometimes after adjusting the exposure boost/cut "[+/-]" button after
examining the histogram -- depending on what the lighting conditions
are, and what degree of "spot" metering I am using.
Also -- if you turn on "Auto ISO" mode, you can cover a much
greater range of illumination with a given lens. At the extremes (e.g.
1600 ISO) there will be an increase in digital noise -- but that is not
as objectionable as the increase in grain pushing a B&W film to that
speed -- and you continue to get color.
Jack Black - 11 Apr 2006 02:06 GMT
>According to Buy_Sell <werkspace@hotmail.com>:
DoN, thanks for the answers! Good info in there! :)
I understand the 1.5 factor, just didn't really sink in that my fave
lens would go away. I do landscape almost exclusively, and losing
that 28mm-35mm range would be bad. The kit lens might just be the way
to go, although I really try to avoid these slow lenses.
Definately some good information to mull over, thanks for responding!!
:)
Jack
> I hope that this helps,
> DoN.
Paul Furman - 11 Apr 2006 19:49 GMT
> I understand the 1.5 factor, just didn't really sink in that my fave
> lens would go away. I do landscape almost exclusively, and losing
> that 28mm-35mm range would be bad. The kit lens might just be the way
> to go, although I really try to avoid these slow lenses.
Yeah it's tough because the only fast options are really expensive.
$1200 17-55mm f/2.8 DX (digital only)
$1500 17-35mm f/2.8 (full frame)