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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / January 2005Finally got it.
I got my D70 today. I've just been using it in Auto mode, and tried some of my older Nikon lenses on it in manual mode. So far my impressions are that it is extremely fast, both focusing and shooting. It feels like a "real" camera, very solid and nice to hold. JPEG photos look very good, but it's gonna take me awhile to get past the learning curve. Also, the controls seem to be well placed, including all the buttons. Everything just seems to fall into place when you hold it. One nice touch is that the diopter adjustment works extremely well. I wear contacts set to monovision: My left lens is set to distance while my right is set to reading. I was very concerned about this, hoping I wouldn't have to get new contacts, or wear glasses all the time. One quick adjustment on the diopter and everything just snapped into focus. You get an adaptor that holds 3 CR-2 batteries for emergencies, but three of these things cost almost as much as a spare rechargeable, so I've already ordered a second battery and an AC adaptor (why is the AC adaptor so expensive compared to the other models?). I got the AC adaptor in case I have to clean the CCD. Figured it was cheaper than a repair if the battery gave out. Thanks to all for the help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I stumble through the manual. Can't wait to get my micro lens back from conversion. That should be fun, although the lens that comes with the "kit" focuses pretty close. Also, hard to get used to the Auto feature lowering the shutter speed to the point where you can't hand-hold it. I'm learning. Sheldon sheldon@sopris.net >You get an adaptor that holds 3 CR-2 batteries for emergencies, but three of >these things cost almost as much as a spare rechargeable, But the idea is that in an emergency you can go to a shop and buy some. They also have a high shelf life, so you could keep three for emergencies and they'll still be good as new when you need them. >Also, hard to get used to the Auto feature lowering the shutter speed to the >point where you can't hand-hold it. I'm learning. You'll soon learn to get away from auto.  SignatureChris Pollard CG Internet café, Tagum City, Philippines http://www.cginternet.net > >You get an adaptor that holds 3 CR-2 batteries for emergencies, but three of > >these things cost almost as much as a spare rechargeable, > > But the idea is that in an emergency you can go to a shop and buy some. They > also have a high shelf life, so you could keep three for emergencies and they'll > still be good as new when you need them. That I understand, but they are affected by temperature more than the Lithium Ion. Back in the good old days we used to duct tape hand warmers to the backs of our Nikon F motor drives to keep them going in cold weather. :-) Ski photos in cold weather would suck the life out of our batteries. > > >Also, hard to get used to the Auto feature lowering the shutter speed to the > >point where you can't hand-hold it. I'm learning. > > You'll soon learn to get away from auto. Yeah. I keep forgetting I have to get into P mode if I want to make my own choices. Not much different with the better p&s cameras. Thanks for the input. Sheldon >I got my D70 today. I've just been using it in Auto mode, and tried some of >my older Nikon lenses on it in manual mode. Please do yourself a favor and stop using Auto mode ASAP. You really gain nothing from using Auto over Programmed mode. You do however introduce a whole bunch of uncontrolled in camera processing when shooting in Auto. The in camera adjustments are made dependent upon the image content. IMO, you're better off using Program mode AND going into the menus and setting all the adjustments ( sharpening, saturation, contrast, etc.) to fixed values so you know what you are getting and can get up on the learning curve more quickly. See Optimizing Images p.56 of the manual. Specifically, I'm talking about choosing the custom option. This allows direct control of all the settings. >You get an adaptor that holds 3 CR-2 batteries for emergencies, but three of >these things cost almost as much as a spare rechargeable, so I've already >ordered a second battery and an AC adaptor (why is the AC adaptor so >expensive compared to the other models?). I got the AC adaptor in case I >have to clean the CCD. Figured it was cheaper than a repair if the battery >gave out. I just make sure I pop in a freshly charged batt, myself. >Thanks to all for the help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I >stumble through the manual. Can't wait to get my micro lens back from >conversion. That should be fun, although the lens that comes with the "kit" >focuses pretty close. I'd recommend Thom Hogan's e-book. Depends on your point of view. The kit lens focuses as close as 1.2 ft. Coming from a CP-990 and 5700 which get down to 1cm, it takes a bit to remember this. Especially, as I still use the other two, especially for macros at work. ---------- Ed Ruf Lifetime AMA# 344007 (Usenet@EdwardG.Ruf.com) See images taken with my CP-990/5700 & D70 at http://edwardgruf.com/Digital_Photography/General/index.html > I got my D70 today. I've just been using it in Auto mode, and tried some of > my older Nikon lenses on it in manual mode. So far my impressions are that [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > seem to be well placed, including all the buttons. Everything just seems to > fall into place when you hold it. Congrats! I reccomend that you shoot in "A" mode as much as possible and control the DOF for the desired composition. "A" mode is 'semi auto' in that you choose your aperture and the camera computes the speed based on the meter reading. (or "S" where motion control is a priority). Really learn the metering system. Examine the histograms and adjust exposure comp. > You get an adaptor that holds 3 CR-2 batteries for emergencies, but three of > these things cost almost as much as a spare rechargeable, so I've already > ordered a second battery and an AC adaptor (why is the AC adaptor so > expensive compared to the other models?). I got the AC adaptor in case I > have to clean the CCD. Figured it was cheaper than a repair if the battery > gave out. These chargers contain a DC-DC converter, not just a simple xfrmr-rectifier, so they do cost more. > Also, hard to get used to the Auto feature lowering the shutter speed to the > point where you can't hand-hold it. I'm learning. Shoot "S" priority to be in control of the shutter speed. Shoot "A" priority to be in control of DOF. Use a tripod. Focus manually too. Post results. Cheers, Alan Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. >> I got my D70 today. I've just been using it in Auto mode, and tried some >> of my older Nikon lenses on it in manual mode. So far my impressions are [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > Cheers, > Alan I'm pretty familiar with a lot of this stuff, except it did take me awhile to figure out why I couldn't do much in Automatic mode. So far all I want to do is take some shots and make sure all is working well. I have a lot of photos of my foot, and other things around the living room. :-) No time yet to go out and get serious with the thing. After all, I've gotta pay for it. :-( Compared to my P&S, I'm looking forward to having the opportunity to play a bit with depth of field. Really adds a lot to many photos, especially portraits. Thanks. Sheldon > Compared to my P&S, I'm looking forward to having the opportunity to play a > bit with depth of field. Really adds a lot to many photos, especially > portraits. Then "A" or "M" mode. I say "M" 'cause I shoot portraits without TTL flash (either studio strobes, natural light or sometimes hot lights). An incident meter (or spot meter that can do flash as well) is of course a key tool, but with a digital camera you can find acceptable exposure via the monitor/histogram. If you have a lens with close focus (pref. a macro but 50mm f/1.8 isn't bad) then there area all kinds of things you can find around the house to practice on. Cheers, Alan Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. >> Compared to my P&S, I'm looking forward to having the opportunity to play >> a bit with depth of field. Really adds a lot to many photos, especially [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Cheers, > Alan I have a 55 micro and an 85 1.8. The latter is what I plan on using for portraits. Most will be natural light or flash fill from the camera. I don't want to get back into studio photography. > Focus manually too. Not with a digital... until someone makes one with a proper focusing screen, at least. It's next to impossible to manually focus a D70, even with an f/1.8 lens, which is about my only complaint with it. Luckily, Nikon's autofocus can be mastered; I can get it to focus on what I want, even though branches or whatever. The only defect with Nikon is that it's a bit slow in initial target acquisition sometimes, which can get annoying if you're shooting wildlife or something. I'd really want a proper focusing screen for that situation. (I understand that Canon's autofocus does somewhat better at that, but that one thing is far from enough to get me to switch.) SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com >> Focus manually too. > >Not with a digital... until someone makes one with a proper focusing screen, >at least. It's next to impossible to manually focus a D70, even with an >f/1.8 lens, which is about my only complaint with it. I've had good success doing this, with the kit lens. >Luckily, Nikon's autofocus can be mastered; I can get it to focus on what >I want, even though branches or whatever. The only defect with Nikon is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >autofocus does somewhat better at that, but that one thing is far from >enough to get me to switch.) If you think you can focus faster than the D70, why not switch it to manual, and use the little green "you've got focus" light at the far left of the viewfinder to assist you. I do this to prevent the AF from hunting when using long lenses. Keep the designated focus area locked to the center one, and then the process is similar to using a split-screen. Focus, re-frame, shoot. I also keep CSM-16 (AE lock on half-press) switched off to allow matrix to work properly. Keep your eye on the subject, and you'll see the focus light illuminate in your peripheral vision. I too would prefer to use the old screen, but we do the best with what we have. -- Owamanga! >> It's next to impossible to manually focus a D70, even with an >> f/1.8 lens, which is about my only complaint with it. > > I've had good success doing this, with the kit lens. I can't do it worth a damn, not with critical accuracy. I can't even do it with critical accuracy with the 50/1.8. Well, okay, I probably could, but it would take too long and be somewhat hit-or-miss. The combination of no focusing screen and the tiny viewfinder area just destroys my manual focus chops. Did you practice and eventually get used to it? I gave up on it pretty quickly. > If you think you can focus faster than the D70, why not switch it to > manual, and use the little green "you've got focus" light at the far > left of the viewfinder to assist you. Well, that's just it -- I *don't* think I can focus faster than the D70 with the viewfinder the way it is. And the green light isn't very useful when many of the situations where I'd want to manually focus are the exact ones where AF won't work. :) I'm good enough with the AF that I really only have the desire to switch to manual when the AF can't get the job done -- low light (in which case speed is rarely a concern) or tricky situations in which, with a proper focusing screen, I *could* focus faster than the AF (and used to, with my old film SLR) because it's going to get confused and lock onto the wrong thing. > Keep the designated focus area locked to the center one, and then the > process is similar to using a split-screen. Focus, re-frame, shoot. You know, it's interesting. Coming from that background, I found that I was almost always using the center AF sensor. But lately I'm using the arrow keypad to move it around a bit more and I'm finding that quite useful, though it takes a little getting used to. I haven't dared to try the "automatic" mode where it decides what to use on its own; that gives me the willies. > I too would prefer to use the old screen, but we do the best with what > we have. Yep. This one little thing *definitely* isn't enough to get me to ever deal with film again. :) SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com Not sure what the complaint is. On my F's I got rid of the fancy focus screens and replaced then with clear centers. I'd rather use my own eyes to focus than let a fancy screen do it. Have you played with the diopter adjustment? Not sure why, but the smaller area, compared to a full size focus screen, doesn't really bother me. Sheldon >>> It's next to impossible to manually focus a D70, even with an >>> f/1.8 lens, which is about my only complaint with it. [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > Yep. This one little thing *definitely* isn't enough to get me to ever > deal with film again. :) >>> It's next to impossible to manually focus a D70, even with an >>> f/1.8 lens, which is about my only complaint with it. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >Did you practice and eventually get used to it? I gave up on it pretty >quickly. I only do this when out shooting birds. And no, my hit rate isn't brilliant because the damn birds move all the time. I haven't done anything remotely like a scientific test. >> If you think you can focus faster than the D70, why not switch it to >> manual, and use the little green "you've got focus" light at the far [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >when many of the situations where I'd want to manually focus are the >exact ones where AF won't work. :) I learned using firstly an OM-2 and then a Minolta something, both had split-screen focusing circle right bang in the middle of the screen. I always used that, so always choosing the center spot for focusing and then re-framing is something I am completely used to. >I'm good enough with the AF that I really only have the desire to switch >to manual when the AF can't get the job done -- low light (in which case [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >dared to try the "automatic" mode where it decides what to use on its >own; that gives me the willies. ..and doesn't work that well (D70 anyway). I've tried several times with birds in flight. Simple enough - that there is the bird, then the sky. Two things, and the bird is always closer. Keeping the damn bird over at least one of those focus areas *all* of the time is impossible, so the sky wins. ;-) >> I too would prefer to use the old screen, but we do the best with what >> we have. > >Yep. This one little thing *definitely* isn't enough to get me to ever >deal with film again. :) -- Owamanga! >>Focus manually too. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > autofocus does somewhat better at that, but that one thing is far from > enough to get me to switch.) The Maxxum's use "accumat" screens which are fairly easy to focus except in very low light. There is a special version of the screen for very shallow DOF (at the expense of some light loss in the viewfinder). The Accumat is a very good screen and Leica (or is it Hasselblad?) buy it from Minolta for their cameras. AF in general, regardless of the camera maker, is not as accurate as manual focus, assuming the VF allows you to do so. OTOH, MF with an AF lens is also harder as there is less "drag" resulting in 'nervous' manual focus. MF lenses are naturally "draggy" and it damps out fine finger movement. Cheers, Alan Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. >I got my D70 today. I've just been using it in Auto mode, and tried some >of my older Nikon lenses on it in manual mode. So far my impressions are [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >controls seem to be well placed, including all the buttons. Everything >just seems to fall into place when you hold it. <snip> > Also, hard to get used to the Auto feature lowering the shutter speed to > the point where you can't hand-hold it. I'm learning. Sheldon, From one newbie to another, I just went through the same learning curve with my Canon 300D. I made the mistake of starting out in Auto mode and was very disappointed. Soon there after I moved to Program mode, gained back the control I had with my manual camera and haven't gone back to Auto since. I've been very happy. The second thing I did was to start shooting in RAW mode and using Capture One for RAW image manipulation and conversion. After C1, I use Photoshop for any further editing, although my PS skills are very limited. Note that PScs has RAW conversion built (free download) in but I have PS7. In any event, the quality of the final images are much better then anything I was able to get from Auto mode. SignatureRob >I got my D70 today. Great! Can't wait to see your work on alt.binaries.photos.original ! > I've just been using it in Auto mode, and tried some of >my older Nikon lenses on it in manual mode. So far my impressions are that [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >seem to be well placed, including all the buttons. Everything just seems to >fall into place when you hold it. First - put it into 'P' mode at least!! In this mode you can choose other settings just by turning the thumb wheel. For example, if the camera picks 1/25sec and F16 and you don't like the slow shutter, just spin the wheel until it says maybe 1/100 at 5.6 or whatever... you get the same shot. Or if you want to limit the DOF, spin it to the maximum F 3.5 or whatever, at maybe 1/500 or whatever - again, same shot. ( say 'whatever' a lot...) Watch for an indicator in the top display to tell you that you have selected a custom exposure or the camera choice exposure. Once you learn this, go into the CSM menu and turn on EXP COMP, and now the other wheel becomes a compensator dial, allowing you to brighten or darken the image. There is a little 'meter' to show what you are doing. You would be surprised at all you can do with this setting. Next, you can learn "manual"! >You get an adaptor that holds 3 CR-2 batteries for emergencies, but three of >these things cost almost as much as a spare rechargeable, so I've already >ordered a second battery and an AC adaptor (why is the AC adaptor so >expensive compared to the other models?). I got the AC adaptor in case I >have to clean the CCD. Figured it was cheaper than a repair if the battery >gave out. You'll find the battery's last for thousands of shots!! Not like the P&S! >Thanks to all for the help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I >stumble through the manual. Can't wait to get my micro lens back from [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Also, hard to get used to the Auto feature lowering the shutter speed to the >point where you can't hand-hold it. I'm learning. see above! One feature you may like is the fact that with a telephoto lens, the camera will pick high shutter speeds automatically. >Sheldon >sheldon@sopris.net |
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